Amila_Silva

There are many brands. Just visit an auto parts store and ask. I guess Abro is a decent brand. The instructions are there in the bottle you purchase. So please follow those.

Most of the CS2 s you find here are GDI engines. And if this car is having a GDI, then they do better on fuel and provide good driving experience as well. But there is a tendency of high carbon buildup than MPFI engines mainly due to the usage of poor quality fuel.

Thanks @gayanath It is certainly an improvement. 100K interval for changing the fuel filter. Then again it make sense since they have two filters and the labor cost of changing the one inside the gas tank would be pretty high.

@gayanath Are you sure that Toyota recommends to change the fuel filter at 100, 000 km? Usually its a lot less. In my Honda the owners manual suggest to replace the fuel filter every 40,000 kms. Usually it is recommended to change between 30 000 - 40 000 miles or every 2 years unless specified in the manual. Considering the quality of the fuel in here I think the OP should contact Toyota and ask about the interval by specifying the car model.

Lets say you are going for Mibil1 synthetic oil, then I suggest you to use the Mobil 1 oil filter since it can withstand that duration. You may be able to use the existing Toyota oil filter as well but please confirm it with the service dealer. Whatever you do, please don't use a cheap oil filter like SAKURA. The condition of the Air filter is not related to the oil you are using. Just replace it within the same interval you used to replace it. I believe you might not have replaced the fuel filter yet (or might have) since its relatively a new car but I usually replace it with every 3 to 4 services I do (around 10 000 to 15 000 kms). That also has nothing to do with the oil you are using but its directly related to the engine running time and the quality of fuel you are using. (I do all services by myself so I only have to worry about the price of the parts) All other services of the car should not depend on your oil change interval. For an example, tire rotation, wheel alignment, ...etc.

I believe you can keep using X2 for your vehicle without worrying too much now

Found these two on internet. Mobile Super 2000 X1: https://www.mobil.com/en-GB/Passenger-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GL-XX-Mobil-Super-2000-X1-10W40 Mobile Super 2000 X2: https://www.mobil.com/en-au/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/gl-xx-mobil-super-2000-x2-10w40 Seems like X1 has been approved for older cars. They have the approvals from LADA . Anyway it won't matter much if your engine is running on petrol. If it is diesel then there is a catch. If your diesel engine is having a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) go for X2. Those vehicles would be relatively new ones (manufacture after 2005 to be average but differs according to the Make). If you are having a older diesel car (Pre 2000s) then go for X1. Now how do you know whether your vehicle has this damn DPF filter? You may go to this link and scroll down. Apart from that, personally I haven't used this oil and no experience with it.

Exactly @Devinda_Z. The wear and tear of the engine while cruising in a highway is about 10% of the stop and go traffic.

@thusharak340 May I suggest you something. Oil (whatever the the type may be) is much more cheaper than an engine repair. So whatever you do, please do not cut corners when it comes to oil change. Now being you car is relatively in brand new condition with very low mileage, even though you cut corners, you will not notice it and it will take the abuse at least until it reaches 100, 000 kms. Then it becomes someone else's problem if sell at that period. If I talk from my experience, you can use your existing Toyota oil and change it every 5000 km intervals as you are doing now and your car will be really happy. If that is too much cost for you, I think its not because of of the oil, but its the price that you have to pay for the service. Isn't it? Now if your warranty period is ending in near future I don't think its worth to be a puppet for your service dealer (The Laugh service who told that their oil can last 20 000 kms is enough for me to understand about their attitude). If it is so, you can use any type of a oil you like and change it by yourself according to how you feel like it (Keep the bills with you) and take the car to a good service station and do the rest of the cleaning. But it is up to you. Just made a suggestion.

Ha ha. No I don't even know him. Anyway is Peugeot 206 that bad? I never owned one but I like the way it looks (as a hatchback)

@thusharak340 Good news for you. Eric has already done a video for your dilemma. He poured Mobil1 0W 20 synthetic oil in his van and drove for an year and changed it after about 17K something miles. He has done oil analysis as well and results seems to be positive Here is the video of him pouring Mobil1 0W 20 synthetic oil in the engine. And here is the video of him changing the oil after 1 year and giving you the test results. There are some good information in these two videos like even though you change oil for every 20K miles, you can't omit the other services in the vehicle such as tire rotation, under carriage wash / greasing, wheel alignment, ...etc.

Holy crap. I was a member in Auto Lanka for so long I could remember and now got some free time to respond to some threads. I didn't expect this. @Kavvz I never said I Know better than oil companies or never said there are no benefits of using synthetic oil against mineral. Did I? In fact I always wanted to change into Synthetic (even now) to keep the engine clean but it scares me to do so (due to the claims of some people saying they got oil leaks afterwards in heavily used engines) I only said the argument I made was 100% true which is changing the oil by the odometer interval (distance traveled) is incorrect. There is no reason for you to say it was partially correct right? And to be honest all arguments that you have made are true as well. Whats the big deal about it. The purpose of this forum is to help individuals. Not to quote every sentence a person write and raise arguments. I see that you have written a constructive feedback regarding the Oil types and its really good. @gayanath Because I don't need to. Oil looks very clean at that moment. Like you said I am considering the other factors. For another person it may be a different scenario. What you said is true. I agree with that. What I meant was people think higher the odometer value higher the engine wear and tear. Its not true always because if a person use good oil (may be synthetic) and change it regularly according to his driving pattern and drive sensibly that particular engine may be far better than a one driven by a maniac with improper service.

No there are Japanese vehicles falls under the budget but they would be bit older than the Spectra. For an example the engine being used in the spectra is the same one used in Mazda Familia 323 BG model (1989–1994) and it would be around the same price or lesser. If the previous owners have maintained the Famila car in order, then I believe its a well thought of a car with compared to Spectra. May I suggest you following? 1. Nissan March K11 2. Peugeot 206

Were you got discouraged by the comment I made on Kia Spectra? Anyway most of the cars that falls under your budget would have been manufactured around 90s or early 2000s. There is nothing wrong with those old cars. In fact I'm a big fan in 90s itself and driving a car made in 1999 and I believe its the best era of cars in terms of reliability and maintainability. The only downside is we don't know what kind of abuse they have taken all over these years from crappy owners and natural disasters like floods. So, taking that aside, I would suggest you to forget about the fuel efficiency since none of the cars would be good enough for you since the average fuel efficiency in traffic would be around 10 kmpl. If you can lower your expectations further with regards to fuel efficiency there are lot of cars that might be fall into the budget. Are you OK with that fact?

No it is 100% correct. No offense please. It is true that Synthetic holds its viscosity more than the mineral counterparts but I don't agree with suggesting a number like 10 000 km intervals. Because if you are the person who travel 30kms for 1.5 hours and if you wait till 10 000 kms to change the synthetic oil that is in your engine, its like the person who drives 120 kms in the highway for 1.5 hours waited 40 000 kms to change the oil which is way beyond the mileage mentioned by you (10K). The mileage mentioned in oil can is an average one (more towards highway driving in Europe / USA countries) and trust me they have no idea regarding all the drama that we go through in the traffic of Sri Lankan roads. If they knew they would suggest 2500 km intervals in Mobil Synthetic cans . Unlike the heavy machinery vehicles, the cars we drive (not the high tech ones) does not have the engine running time indicator. Instead we have a trip meter and an odometer. So, people used the odometer value to have a sense of the engine wear and tear (in addition to the mileage) since the past but it is not how it should have been. So its a matter of how you drive and of course there are other factors like the ambient temperature and the driving condition which affect the quality of the oil. I myself had this crazy idea long time ago on switching to synthetic and so on but later decided to keep the same oil and change it frequently. Few months ago I changed the oil pan gasket (due to minor oil leak) and got my self ready with Duco high gloss thinner and so on to clean any sludge in the sump and the oil strainer would have. But there was nothing in them. The strainer was crystal clean. No sludge, no deposits, none. Just like brand new engine after 200K kms (could be equivalent to more than 400 K millage of a car drove in Europe considering its running time) and 21 years of its life. By the way I am using Mobil 15w 40 and change it every to 2500 to 3500 km intervals by myself and no problems whats so ever with the engine so far. I haven't done any repairs to the engine apart from timing belt, water pump, ...etc service maintenance. So money was spent only for the oil. So please note that I'm not promoting any oil or talking shit I hear from anybody. Just shared what I know from my experience.

No impact if you are using the same brand with same viscosity and the remaining oil were properly sealed.

Oh my god. What on earth made you think to switch from Toyota oil to Laughs? Do you even know how the Laugh oil is made? What sort of chemical engineers are working for Laughs or the quality control of those things? Just because Laughs is the service dealer do you think the oil they made is better than Mobil or Castrol? On top of that you are trying to extend the interval from 5k to 10K? Do your car a favor and keep using the Toyota oil and if I were you, I would change it every 2500 to 3500 Km intervals. There is no such thing as a particular oil can last up to 5K or 10K km intervals. It all depends on how long you run the engine. A person can drive a car from Galle to Colombo in highway for 120 kms daily within 1.5 hours where another one can drive from Panadura to Colombo (30 kms) within the same time in Galle road in heavy traffic. Which car would you think hit the 5000 km interval first? And if you are this second person and wait till it reaches 5000 kms, then its like the first person drove his car for 20000 kms to change the oil. The engine oil change interval based on the mileage is utterly incorrect. Actually you should consider the time the engine was running.

Well its got a Mazda engine (B5) I believe and some sort of JATCO transmission they borrowed. Honestly speaking, I consider it as an assembled car for the purpose of selling it for low cost just for the sake of entering to the market by KIA in early 2000s. Not to discourage you but I really think you should reconsider on alternative options. Please contact Ajantha Motors and ask for the parts availability.

I have restored my car's faded headlights by myself. All you need is a soapy water bottle which you can spray and couple of sandpapers from each having 600 grit, 800 grit, 1000 grit, 1500 grit (if you want you can go for 2000 grit) You can refer the steps in below link. https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Headlights The advantage of this is, it actually works and cost you next to nothing. Only problem is you might need a half a day of time (including the resting time after doing this. )

Sira, This is purely based on my experience only. So that others might have different experience and opinions which is perfectly ok. I have used FBK for a while and noticed they deprecate more quickly. The front brake pads tends to spray dust all over the alloy wheels too. This was not the case in good old days where they were manufactured in Japan. Then I replaced them with FBL (Fuji Brake Liners - Japan) which is far better than FBK and lasted about 30K with no issues On last week I went to purchase Brake shoes and pads from Teck Motors and they told me that now they are importing Nisshinbo brake pads since they got complaints for FBL are also getting inferior. However I bought NIsshinbo brake pads only since they couldn't find the brake shoes according to the part number since I didn't have the removed parts with me to compare. There is a place called "Gamage Brake Liners" at Panadura (Nalluruwa) where they paste brake shoes and pads. So I decided to do that for the brake shoes since I didn't have time to visit Teck Motors again after disassembling the car. The front brake pads of my father's van also being pasted by this place about three years ago and still its being used with no issues. To my surprise, the pads and the shoes being pasted by this place is in extreme high quality and I feel a major difference in braking. Its being only a week replacing the shoes by pasting so I cannot comment on its durability yet. However, if you are deciding to replace the brake shoes, give it a try to paste. it costed me 1600 LKR only for all 4 shoes and takes 1.5 hours for the pasting job. In the mean while go to http://jp-carparts.com web site and note down the part number of your brake shoe and buy a good quality nisshinbo in case the pasting didn't last long. Please note that I replaced the original brake shoes came with the vehicle when it was manufactured in 1999. After 16 years and 151000 kms it became eligible to replace. Nothing last long and genuine Honda brake shoe and none of the after market Japanese shoes lasts that long

For mine, I purchased Honda DW1 for 1900 LKR from Teck Motors. Had to use 3 of them so the total cost was 4800 LKR. I did the oil change myself. Machan, may I know how much did you pay for CVT 1 quart bottle and from where did you purchase it?

What to do. Its there in the Honda Logo owners manual for Honda Logo TS.

1st and every other CVT oil change interval is 15k kms. For non CVT gear boxes, the interval is 40k kms.

For Honda CVT gear boxes, the interval for changing oil is 15000 km. (Use Honda CVT ATF) For Honda Non CVT gear boxes, the interval for changing oil is 40000 km. (Use Honda DW1 ATF. This is compatible with all Honda ATF Z1 recommended vehicles. ATF Z1 has been discontinued) The easiest way to identify whether you have a CVT gear box or not is, near the auto gear shift you have the letter 'L' instead for '2' or '1'. Ex: P R N D L = CVT P R N D 2 = Non CVT

Well, I don't have direct experience regarding an issue like this but an year ago I tried to find out the best engine oil grade to put into my car. Even confused whether to put synthetic oil. So I ended up by purchasing an owners manual of the vehicle model from Ebay. According to the owners manual, the grade of the engine oil differs according to the ambient temperature. So for the tropical countries like ours they have recommended something like 10W - 40 (As far as I could remember but not sure though. I'll check and update the post later) and I have been using 15W - 40 grade oil (Mobil Multigrade) from the day I purchased the vehicle. So I decided to keep it that way and the engine never had problems with that oil. From where did you find out that 0W-20 is the correct grade for your engine? Is it from the owners manual of the car or from a blog / forum in the internet?