harshansenadhir

Wasn't diesel tax lifted off in early 2000?

Look at these parameters, 1. emission regulations were introduced and I'm sure will increase the thresholds. 2. Then unleaded fuel, not so in favor of carb engines. 3. Last but not least, mechanics who can properly do up a carb are becoming a rare breed. As oppose to mushrooming EFI tune up joints. (clean injectors, throttle body and idle up valve along with a OBD scanner hooked up error clearing would give any EFI system a re-birth, worse it can happen is replacing the ECU or injectors. Now that isnnot so easy with a carb where as inside you have to properly keep the nozzles and jets and what not. Still you have to do lot of trial and error cycles to properly tune a carb. Heard few stories of how difficult to go through the emission test for carb engines where as EFI 's would take you trough it eyes closed. Conclusion, if it's the same car, go for the EFI one.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Kavvz" data-cid="231926" data-time="1359772757"><p> And for haemorrhoids! (Always a good for a laugh at the pharmacy, if they don't know what you want, point to your bum and say " Come on! You know the salt they dissolve in bath water for haemorrhoids? That's what I want!" )</p></blockquote> Oh my, I can imagine the response of the pharmacist when I order about 500g of magnesium sulphate

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="LJG" data-cid="231943" data-time="1359799321"><p> I am sure the following two web pages will interest you!<br /> <br /> <a href='http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-82-83-84-Dodge-Colt-Driver-Side-Tail-Light-LH-/200884338787?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec5a3c063&vxp=mtr'>http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-82-83-84-Dodge-Colt-Driver-Side-Tail-Light-LH-/200884338787?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec5a3c063&vxp=mtr</a><br /> <br /> <a href='http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-82-83-84-Dodge-Colt-Driver-Side-Tail-Light-LH-/200884338787?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec5a3c063&vxp=mtr'>http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-82-83-84-Dodge-Colt-Driver-Side-Tail-Light-LH-/200884338787?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec5a3c063&vxp=mtr</a></p></blockquote> These are rear lights of colt hatch.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="LJG" data-cid="231885" data-time="1359709999"><p> You can also try E-bay for the tail light. Sometime back I saw these being available in US. A good number of these cars were sold in the US as Chrysler and Plymouth Colt, Lancer, etc. Those cars were fitted with a 1600 cc engine.</p></blockquote> That's a slightly different variant than the tubelight model. Its similar to the I light and L light models in SL.

Thanks Nishan, will try out and update you guys.

Reviving this thread as I thought of trying out the battery re-conditioning thing using epsom salt. (However, this method will not work if the cells are damaged/short circuited etc.) Bit puzzled as to where should I look for buying epsom salt? youtube videos say, any department store has it.. but we don't have them here. Any help / tips guys as to where it's available to buy?

Happy "burb" day hope you'll have a superb year full of rust buckets ahead.

It's otherway around, not much spares available as the population of this model is relatively low. Engine parts wouldn't be much of an issue but body parts and suspension would be. Anyways why on earth you decided to put such a heavy, van (which, spares are not easily available) to off roading ? The thing is, after a good (not extreme) off roading session you have to expect few things under the floor to give up. There are much better cost effective alternatives out there than a space gear.

Local fabricated ones are better than after market Taiwan light covers as they don't fade under the sun. (Taiwan ones fade faster) There was a fellow in Piliyandala, dole- kanatta road ( off 255 route ) named Ashley and he did a similar superb job on my tube light lancer back in 2001 or so. Don't know whether he's still there or not. Will give it shot to see whether he's still there. All in all fabrication is not bad as long as you get it done through the right place.

Welcome onboard to the fabulous world of ...... Erm ... Just forget it. It's all about accept mistakes and acknowledge mistakes...

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="antis" data-cid="231437" data-time="1359309637"><p> <br /> The tank is like this one <a href=' '> </a><br /> <br /> Are you sure about this (that they take oil throught the intake manifold)?<br /> </p></blockquote> Yes, older diesel engines were designed to exhale excess oil pressure in the crankcase through breather. However, later this was changed to re-feed the breather line through intake so the intake manifold walls would be wet (retain any dust particals travel through intake) and inlet valves too would get lubricated.

Pump goes hard means the fuel feed circuit is getting loaded as a result of pumping and is a good sign. However, since the issue was with the pre-heat plugs you don't have to worry about the pump I think. Further, what's the tank you fixed to catch oil in the intake manifold? I thought these engines are designed to take some oil through intake manifold (via breather)

Seems there is a lose tubing at either end of the filter. This cause air to seep through to the system and petrol will eventually flow backwards. Recheck the connecting points of the filter

Check whether the auxiliary fans (both fans in this model) do engage with the compressor. You also have mentioned that the compressor works constantly. Most probable reason would be the system lacks refrigerant. If the system has a pressure switch installed, then the compressor will stop engaging if the level drops further. Take it to a competent AC technician and get a pressure test done. Also find and treat the leak (sometimes as simple as leaky o rings or worse case, leaky cooler matrix) before regassing.

Engine is near an overhaul. This happens when the cylinder bore / rings were worn out in such a way that, expansion of the rings will make the gap in ring opening (split) bigger, creating severe under compression. Once engine cool down, this split will be narrow and engine can be started. Whats the oil you're using ? 40w or 50w?? If it's 40w, try using 50w. You will be able to extend the usable life of the engine little further. But it's certain that either rings should be replaced or engine should be re-built. Consult a mechanic and reply back if you need the method of replacing the rings.

make sure to go there early morning, say around 06:00 and get into the queue. If you pay extra for one day service, you will walk away with the new license around 12.30 ish.

log book ?? anyways, if it says Dual purpose, yes you can drive with old C, C1

The category was introduced to stop a scam. The smart cabs initially given LA series, so did the d*mo battas. What happened was some people started using batta plates (same L series) plates on cut and bud smart cabs. new category for single cabs started from PP and now utilized up to PT. Still the scam is around as I do see lot of proper defenders (not single cab ones) with PQ,PR or PT series. Proper dual purpose series is now in the range of PD, PE. I'm sure cops does not aware of this segregation within P series. So in conclusion : If the 207 is registered as a light motor lorry, you cannot drive it with dual purpose license ( if the 207 is within former GA-JZ series, then you have to check the category of the registration in revenue license or CR, for newer ones, the plate itself will tell you whether you can drive it or not) sigh, such a complicated registration and numbering system. P.S There are many other law enforcements for motor lorry category. Driving on the left lane is just one. There are certain roads, which does not allow lorries to enter. Funny thing is, if a simillar vehicle with dual purpose or motor coach license, the same won't be applicable. this is the reason as to why 27, 28, 227 and L series vehicles carry lesser market value than the identical make model vehicle registered in 31/32, 50 onwards or PA onwards.

nah.. he got a nice D8 which is usually robust and trouble free than face lifted D9. If the engine is L6A, that's a one hell of a robust engine in the entire series and parts are also cheap. Now shut up and get back into your rust buckets

Welcome on board to the fabulous world of Peugeot. Its a nice D8 you got there mate, a very rare beauty it seems. What's the engine it got? 1.8 L6A with 8 valves or the 16v version? Seems like this is the glx with full options including auto wipers. Rule of thumb in using / owning a Peugeot (even other euros) is thst don't let those makabasses mess around with it to learn

Happy birth day S_N

In point #3 are you referring to the power door opening switch of the tailgate ? Looks a burnt fuse of a rear section. If all fuses are fine, secondly look for the connectors of the rear wiring loom.

This was due to infamous air flow sensor issue which was there in early models and later rectified. But almost all the cars running about would've gone through the air flow sensor replacement by now.

I thought I was alone. Seriously, I don't know who has decided to part with all the machinery we had in all these bus boddy assembly locations, Werahera (later became LaTech factory and now RMV), Kappetipola and Ekala. Could've saved millions of currency outflaw to Yindia..