Jason_Bourne

Third generation(3A2/3A3) Honda City had 3 engines. Only one had a V-TEC motor. 1.3 L D13B I4 1.5 L D15B I4 1.5 L D15B VTEC I4 This model was called Honda City Type Z and "Hyper 16 Valve" on the valve cover is a fancy name for a 16 valve engine by Honda. But if it is V-TEC it will have "Honda" and "V-TEC" on the valve cover instead of this "Hyper 16 Valve". So if you see "Hyper 16 Valve" on the valve cover it's probably a 1.3 or 1.5 liter non V-TEC engine. Also only 3 stage V-TEC variants had rear disc breaks!

What's the mileage and have you ever changed gear oil?

FD3s with a YOM before 2010 has that famous IMA issue. (Battery failing prematurely). Honda fixed the issue with a software update meaning you have to UPDATE the IMA software with the new battery pack. (Actually you could have avoided the issue altogether if you updated the software before the original battery failed) Did you update the IMA software?

If you have checked all those there's only few key things left to check! 1. MAP(manifold absolute pressure) Sensor (and further if there are any vacuum leaks) OR Idle up valve if your vehicle has one 2. EGR(exhaust gas re-circulation) valve (check if it's clogged) 3. And finally the ECU/PCM

The thing is even developed countries struggle to put-off Li-ion battery fires. Imagine a hybrid battery catching fire in Sri Lanka and our inexperienced fire fighters trying to put it off! ? www.consumerreports.org How Tesla and Other EV Battery Fires Challenge First-Responder Tactics "A lot more water is required for EV fires than for conventional fires, Klock says. That’s because it’s critical for firefighters to lower the temperature of the burning lithium-ion cell. Conventional car fires can be smothered with water and foam, and they don’t usually reignite once they’re extinguished. With EVs, a battery fire may be inside a compartment that’s protected by shields, where the water isn’t directly affecting the flames. According to Klock, the point of fighting a battery fire is to lower the temperature to a point where the chemicals stop burning. Fire departments have been encouraged to use thermal imaging to monitor the batteries even after the fire is out, according to a study prepared by the industry research firm Exponent for the Fire Protection Research Foundation." "The challenge of lithium-ion batteries in cars is that there hasn’t been nearly as much time to study the unique properties of battery packs, Risser said in an interview with CR. And when things go bad, there’s a chance for them to go bad in a dramatic fashion, he said."

If this is a CVT how do you FEEL gears? This thread is very confusing lol My best guess is, it's the inherent sluggish pick up of any CVT gear box. If you were used to drive manuals or conventional autos you will find a hard time adopting to these CVTs. The first time I drove a CVT I actually asked my friend if his car has an acceleration problem!

Man this guy "iRage" is on some another level eh? This guy goes around quoting me in unrelated topics coz he got hurt on this thread! haha! How did you become a top contributor? damn! How old are you? Calm down! We are just expressing our opinions. Nobody gonna give you a medal for the top comment here! Anyway I've made my points and I don't think we can build constructive arguments with like this! Bye!

That's debatable. C*r checks charge couple of thousand bucks less than TL or Stafford. I've compared printed reports of both the agent and c*r checks and seemed to me car checks had more individual checks. But agent being the agent might be more specialized and experienced on common problems of a particular vehicle model. (they have access to model recall data and all). So might be more reliable than any third party!

They charge something like 6K or 7K and provide a full detail report. Besides agent that 3rd party business (c*r checks) does the same job. Maybe they go lil bit deeper than the agent. Do it if you don't know the vehicle(or the service history) personally. You won't regret!

I thought we were building constructive arguments on Hybrid vs Non-Hybrid cars. That's the only reason I linked that research which I'm pretty sure you didn't even bother to read. Seems you "iRage" and "matroska" are Hybrid owners who got fooled by car sales back in 2012/13! Now seeing the real depreciation of your cars every time when some talks about it you guys get paranoid. Hybrids are NOT popular in their home markets and owning a Hybrid more than 4+ or 5+ years will cause you to lose everything you saved on fuel. They were hitting sales targets just cause the hype of new technology. But when the market matures everybody recognizes the real situation they got in to. That research proves it by comparing most industrialized markets. Sri Lanka with much less access to tech will definitely be something worse.

Exactly! There won't be any 10+ year old Hybrids in non of the markets worldwide (even in Japan). For comparison a Toyota 121 which is close to 20 years old still goes over 3 mill LKR!

Owning a Hybrid does not mean you are spending less buy pumping less fuel. TCO (Total Cost of Ownership) is the factor that needs to be considered. Read this research! It analyses why Conventional Petrol Vehicles are still the market leader in terms of TCO even in highly industrialized countries like UK, USA & Japan. Hence in a 3rd world country like SL Petrol Vehicles are still far superior than any other form of technology. Hybrid, PHEV or Electric! Total cost of ownership and market share for hybrid and electric vehicles in the UK, US and Japan

2012-13 used Hybrids have flooded the market where owners try to sell them before they have to replace the battery. So expect market will slowly realize Hybrids depreciate many times more than a typical non-hybrid. Hybrid rush in Sri Lanka is a bubble created by Car Sale guys. Non of these vehicles are popular even in their home market.

This guy makes some very strong points why Immobilizer Keys are still superior! My FD1 has a regular key I was feeling outdated sometimes! Well not after hearing all these stories!

Hi, Just sharing how I went through my purchase. Whether it's a Vitz or something else the process should be the same. 1. Do NOT ever believe the odometer reading of a car in SL. Our guys are known for tampering even very recent high tech cars(Toyotas are the easiest to tamper, But I've seen tampered Beemers and Mercs. Further I've seen Peugeots' with modern BSI systems getting their ODO altered) Only way to be sure of the mileage is DOCUMENTAION!. Emission Testing Certificates Service Records with the Dealer or a reputed garage are the only proof of mileage I believe. Others even the Auction Certificates, JAAI are mostly FAKE in SL. 2. If the car has been serviced and maintained at right intervals even 100K kilometers is nothing for a Toyota or a Honda. I got my Honda at 80K and one year later it still runs like new. These motors are designed from factory to last upwards of 200K without an overhaul even in most punishing conditions. So if you chose a Toyota or a Honda don't be afraid of high mileage. Be afraid of improper maintenance by Makabas types instead. 3. The only way to confirm mechanical condition of a car is by inspection. Probably by a professional. If you know a trusted Garage Guy take him with you and let him inspect & decide. Toyota, Stafford or even CarChecks provide vehicle inspection reports at a fairly decent price. If you select a car to buy, do an inspection before payment. When I said I'm gonna do an inspection at Stafford 2 owners got panicked and tried to avoid the inspection. Both cars came out with "Frontal Accident" in the inspection report The car I purchased, the owner was even ready to show me an inspection report with his money. I knew the guy was genuine from that point and inspection report came with 98% mechanical integrity.

Have heard Micro after sales service(Specially spare parts as Micro keeps a monopoly) is crap and build quality is cheap. Also seems the Panda fuel efficiency is varying from car to car. Haven't heard a good review on Panda from any reliable source or from any of my friends. But Alto is different. It's not a luxury car but a solid basic car. Spare parts are -plenty and every garage repairs an Alto. You can sell an Alto anytime to anyone. It's like a Toyota Premio, Allion, Axio resale market but below 2-2.5 mil range lol So I would suggest an Alto if you want a solid small car with very low maintenance cost and a hassle free resale. Damn just realized this is a thread from ancient history Someone resurfaced it!

Toyota vitz never came as a manual to sri lanka right? Maybe be OP is talking about a clutch pack rebuild and a gear oil change which is the first diagnosis for a faulty transmission?

Normally in autos those D1, D2, D3 mean transmission will not shift beyond the stated gear. Also the engine rpm where the gear shift happens is much higher than driving in D. (in D transmission usually shifts at around 2000-2500). So those gears are used under high load conditions which needs a higher rpm. Maybe those sites suggested D3 for stop and go traffic as it would reduce gears shifting up down all the time by allowing the engine to rev higher in the same gear. That might prolong the transmission life coz less number of transmission shifts, less the wear. So they might have a point by suggesting D3 for stop and go traffic.

"I really care about the performance, safety, look, reliability, maintenance, and resale value." Those requirements are contradictory. Performance, Safety & looks don't always come coupled with other factors. I had the same amount of cash about a year ago and after so much research I decided throwing 4 mil at a 3 cylinder boring hatchback is waste of money. I finally got a 10 year old 1800 cc Japanese sedan lol. Maybe a failed investment but nothing can beat the satisfaction you get while driving it

yes that's pretty achievable if you don't drive like a maniac lol. Best I've got is 15.14 kmpl on a round trip to Talaimannar! Overall trip was over 800 km (We went to wilpattu too)

well if you are okay with the styling and won't mind the price go for the FB! ( But be mindful FB is close to 5 mil now and the new Civic Turbo Hatch is only 6 mil. So it's a tough decision if you have money) But If your budget is around 4mil and not beyond that buy a well maintained FD! FD is anyway depreciated now so it will hold value. I'm using a FD1 for more than a year now and so far no complains. Just don't expect Toyota like fuel economy!

lol

Almost same mileage. It's the same R series engine. But never buy a Honda if you are that concerned with fuel consumption. Buy a premio or Allion. There are times i get only 7kmpl with heavy footed driving in my FD1. But IMO the experience is worth that 1000 bucks of fuel!

So does that mean we will get Euro 4 instead of Oct-92? Same price?