MrCat

Its just a Disco 1 with front and rear light conversion. Bloody nicely done though..

ok, so who can guess the car above? I say VW bug..

Well, I fu**d up a bit yesterday...! Was not paying enough attention when pumping fuel and pumped petrol in to the Disco. Realized after 80 liters went in. Had to get the car towed to a garage, most places are open half a day on Saturdays, so they`ll work on it Monday. Only positive is that 15 years worth of of crap will get cleaned out from the Diesel tank. oh well, I`m all house bound for the weekend.

Or you can make an offer for the plate and get it.

+1, exactly what I was thinking.. Bad taste in terms of styling, but who knows, perhaps the work is of good quality.. Besides, if he has done all the work himself, it`s far better than offering a pile of cash to some fibre-glass modify guru to ruin a car for you.. With a bit more conservative bumper, the front wont look that bad at all..

Just installed a new head unit today. This is a JVC (KD-R736BT) with Bluetooth (audio streaming and phone connectivity), two usb ports, ipod control, etc… The factory unit being a radio cassette player was quite useless without mp3 playback ability. Here are the two harnesses I had to use to be able to do a plug and play job. With these you don't have to muck around with the factory wire harness. This is an ISO interconnect system. The one on the left takes the Land Rover factory plug and convert to an ISO harness, and the one on the right converts from ISO to the socket that JVC takes in. Here`s the old unit. The tag explains why the thing ran perfectly for 15+ years, the Japs manufactured it, not the Brits..! Aaaaand the new unit in place. This makes quite a difference in sound quality even though the speakers are still the old original ones. Got to replace the four speakers next (I wont touch the tweeters at the A pillar for the moment, they seems to be humming along ok)

Good stuff mate.. This, A kind of thread I like, keep it rolling..

Thanks for the video mate, I haven’t come across this before. This is exactly what I need as well (snorkel input to go at the side of the air box and blank out the original air hole) because there`s not much room in there with the second battery in front and the abs unit at the back of the air box. I`ve read that converting to a barrel type air cleaner from a 200tdi could be more efficient with a snorkel setup, have to do some more research.

Just put on some decals on the Disco today.

No worries at all.. Great to see a fellow Diso owner on the forum..!! You based on Colombo? More info on yours? Year manufactured (I`m guessing it`s a 94+ since a 300tdi)? Color? Any accessories installed?

So you are Joshua in real world? Not your cake eh? Happy B`day mate..!

The car already had the system installed when I got it. This is a basic duel battery isolator which is essentially a voltage sensitive relay/solenoid which starts charging the auxiliary battery once the primary battery is charged up to a certain voltage. It also isolates the starting battery when the engine is not running and the primary battery is falling below a certain voltage. The unit I’ve got here is an old unit though, I haven`t really checked whether it`s working a 100% as it`s supposed to, but both batteries gets charged ok. There are highly intelligent battery ‘monitoring systems’ out there as well, which are having features such as: charging monitoring and display, ‘jump’ feature for starting, ability to cater for different types of batteries, alternator protection, etc… Wiring for a basic system would be similar to this AFAIK (mine hasn't got this remote status lamp and override switch)

Hey, thanks for the wishes mate.

Yes, should try this when I find a bit of time to pull the unit out. it appears to be a PTA to remove. The rear windows are currently working fine with the switches on the door(s) though, but not with the center console switches at the front.

Just mounted a new battery tray for the second battery today. The mounting platform for the second battery (a battery tray wasn't installed before) had some surface rust due to the battery leaking some juice. Cleaned and gave the platform a couple of coats of anti corrosive paint: Here’s the new battery tray in place. The platform already had a few mounting slots in place, just got a couple of bolts of the correct size: This battery aint moving around now, got a new adjustable battery tie down as well: Oh, by the way, a miracle happened during this process, the wife volunteered for the paint job. I guess she was just bored since I was working on the car early Sunday morning. ]

I happened to notice sometime back that the bonnet release cable was damaged at the end where it meets the bonnet release mechanism. A few strands had snapped and it was a matter of time before the whole thing snapped, leaving me with a shut bonnet. So got around to replace the cable one fine Friday. I had already bought the genuine replacement part: Had to take the grill off to get to the bonnet release mechanism: Here’s the sucker, attached to the body by a couple of bolts: Took the mechanism apart and cleaned it well before assembling back. Easy job since the cable was of the correct length being the genuine part and I didn't had to fiddle around with anything.

Spotted this yesterday at a uni car park. Very very rare site over here. Dont know whether the rear glasses are genuine? Pardon the crappy phone pic quality though.

Not a 100% relevant from a local context since my car is not in SL, but i`ll update this anyway Vehicle : Land Rover Discovery - 1997 Transmission Type : manual Engine Capacity : 2500cc, Intercooler Turbo Diesel Fuel : Diesel + Liqui Moly diesel clean and boost Km per Ltr, 50:50 - moderate traffic:highway : 920/80 = 11.5 (approx)

AFIK, the basic set up for a radiator fan (with one temperature switch) is similar to the diagram attached. If they`ve hard-wired the fan, it`s usually after the failure of the temperature switch/sensor mate. In theory a switch like this could be tested with hot water (and using a multi-meter for connectivity when the ‘on’ temperature has reached), but I’ve never tried this. I would get the circuit checked and then replace the temp switch with a matching unit for your engine. ‘Pala Electricals’ have fixed the radiator fan circuit for me a few years back. They did a good job then.

Thanks for the link Schooter. I`ve actually got this and i`ve printed about half of the manual as well. Haven't read the whole thing though. But I believe that it`s written for people who knows what they are doing (not for a noob like me) I might as well invest in something more descriptive such as a Haynes repair manual.

It could have been a loose connection at the pins Don. Could also be the circuitry inside the control box as well. Came home after a bit of running, it appears that the shutters are not moving again. I just don't know why the hell it started working after re-plugging the old unit in (I dint start the engine when testing before, but maybe something got re-set after staring the engine?). I might as well put the new unit in and test again later.

Hello All, As I’ve mentioned before, the Landy`s rear power shutters started refusing to move. Bit of research made be believe that it could be the common failure of the window control unit. So bought a window control ECU off ebay and it arrived a few days ago. The controller unit is installed under the dash (left hand side) behind the glove box. Removed the glove box to gain access to the unit, which is on the left below, where I’ve pulled the connectors out. This was in a very tight place, was impossible to remove the screws that secured the unit. It appeared that I might have to remove the bracket on the unit on the right hand side and take the whole thing off to gain access. Plugged the new one in while the old one was still in place, and after a bit more fiddling around (checked fuses again, had to play with the window lock button as well) the rear windows moved after a long time. Just because it was hard to take the old unit out, I decided to plug the connectors back to the old unit to check one last time. And guess what, the old unit works now and the windows were still operational. The disco has decided to fix itself..!! Mad British electronics..!! They’ve got a mind on their own sometimes..! Oh well, I now got a spare window control ECU. Can just plug it in when the old one dies for good.

Awesome..!! Now this is the kind of thread that I enjoy..! One might say that it`s just an old/boring Jap wagon, but that exactly is the beauty of it I reckon..! Anybody who`s got enough dough can pick up a new car, but only a few are dedicated enough to keep these old machines on the road. Kudos to you mate. If this is your first car, don’t ever sell it, you should be able to earn more money and upgrade later in life, but you might regret big time if your first car is gone forever..! I can still remember the noise that the viscus fan makes on these engines at high revs, you can barely hear the engine but the noise of the fan blowing.

Whoa.!!! That’s some brilliant piece of information, especially this Engeland place. Thanks heaps for that Scooter. See what a great place A/L is, you never know when someone might pop-up with some great info/advice. Look at those DC distribution panels by ‘Engeland’ with individual switches..!! Just 85 bucks..! Must get one of em wired up later on. I am eyeing on an Engle 40lt fridge/freezer as well, so will definitely pay them a visit soon. You know what sort of 12v equipment would use this DC ‘polarized’ socket? Never seen one in use. You could be correct on the socket being not fused though; power is taken by tapping in to the main wiring loom at the back (which distributes to trailer socket, rear lights, etc…), but I can’t figure out whether it’s fused or not. Also, don’t know whether the factory wiring loom would have a direct live wire which is not going through the ignition, but this line is always having power. Need to check this properly.

Hello All, So I had some time off from work today, and decided to do some minor stuff on the truck. Nothing major, thought I’ll note it down anyway. There was an old school 12v power outlet installed at the back of the Disco when I bought it. Don’t know where this standard is used, but I’ve never come across any 12v device which would plug in to a socket like this. I just replaced it with a ‘Narva’ cigarette lighter type socket. This is a direct connection which is not controlled via ignition so is quite handy to plug in any device whenever required. I am currently running a small 8 litre thermo electric cool box off this. The previous socket is on the left: Replaced the trailer power connection socket as well, the previous socket was working fine but the front lid/cover was broken. This is a standard 7 pin socket, again a ‘Narva’ unit: I painted the tow bracket in black before, so the whole bar kind of looks ok now: Here’s the basic wiring diagram for the trailer socket/pin: