porkster

Hey guys, Seriously is no biggie, I've been at this thing for quite some time just keeping it to myself. After I did everything possible to it N/A I felt I'd get bored out of my gourd if I didn't go boost. So now along with a Wicked Starlet guy and a Motec mechanic we're going to boost the puppy. I guess any fan regardless of sex, caste, creed, sexual orientation (yes if ur sesky ur welcome also with ur pink tights ) who is into doing unusual things to cars other than ricing is welcome to partake. So for now no pics....and I never put stickers sorry folks......ok maybe a small dynaudio one on the rear windshield but that it....... I prefer the factory sports division spec sleeper look.....but in due course u guys can take pics and have roast baby piglet, keg beer and Dave Mathews over for the garden party hehehehehe Cheers, Porky (the unroasted kind)

Dude get a Glanza, they rock! Ricing no way.....as for dual muffler out as long as I can find room underneath your car to run the MANDREL BENT piping evenly it shouldn't be an issue but my primary concern is exhaust gas velocity, if I lose that then the whole point of doing the exhaust system is bunk. As for giving it to Rohith, though an angel of a man, be sure you are prepared to leave it with him for a few months The OZ rims I don't consider ricing simply because they are an enhancement to your suspension system. I know the local OZ guy and he charges some 80K -125K for 15s (rims only) let me know if you want to go meet him. Otherwise it down good ole Malay Street Cheers, Porky Yeah dude I wonder myself sometimes , thank God I don't do it for a living Cheers, Porky

From what I have gathered it is a chassis one so it measures whp....but don't quote me on it as I am still investigating, I am supposed to visit the facility sometime within the next two weeks.

YO TN, Ricing never...ever...over my dead body with rampant 100 tonne horses trampling it (when still alive...aaaaargh). Yes I know he would like a Honda but I am looking from a economics POV. For me to bring an EG8 to run boost, 4 wheel disk brakes, RS suspension, reprogram ECU or run Apexi FC or Greddy it still going to come out costing around 1.5 mill (including car) maybe more, better to just get a car already with the goods. Heck then for just a bit more investment, should the guy want, I can turn it into a monster Also the car is newer and them Toyota engine blocks are damn strong. Cheers, Porky

Hey Hola, Thanks for the compliments and kind words on the BMW/Hyundai Stall, my company designed and produced it. Cheers, Porky

OI TN, My point is that this guy is on a budget and he can get a fully loaded turbo car for the price of a N/A Civic. Then he won't have to dump another 250-500K ricing, juicing, pimping or anything else for that matter. He can hit the streets with a shit eating grin on his face everytime Peace, Porky

Hey guys, Cmon dudes, Pilawoos requested and I obliged I have been keeping this under wraps now for like 4 months. Besides I have no sponsors except my own poor hard earned cash. As for the importing question, I get most of my stuff from the States but I also get stuff from Sing, HK, Aussie and Japan. Depends on what I need really and who has it, I am not restricted by a particular country per se and I will go to the ends of the earth to find the right part. Cheers, Porky

Exactly! Imported from Aussie just like my EMS stand alone ecu. (FMIC= front mounted intercooler) my one is two feet wide, a foot high and 3" thick with 3" inch ports I'm using three to two 7 ply silicone reducers to fit the aluminum piping to it with ss clamps. Cheers, Porky

Hey bro, Yes I know I am working my wiliest charms to get it done plus my friends is helping also. Here's a sneak peek with a pic of the front, note the massive HDi FMIC Cheers, Porky

Hey dude, I know you're looking for a Civic but if you will reconsider I have a friend who is selling his fully macked out (non ricey) 97 Starlet Glanza turbo for round 1.55. It is fully load with turbo, TRD suspension, front mounted intercooler, HKS goodies, and much much more. It hauls ass and handles as if on rails and will just about whip the shit out of most cars on Sri Lankan roads. Color is Black. Cheers, Porky

Hey, I promise the ride will be unveiled in good time, of course since it is an intensive project it will take a slow meandering course. My column comes out every first or second Sunday of the month so will be out this Sunday. Cheers, Porky Hey fuzz, Believe it or not I have found me a dyno at one of our Unis, am trying to wheedle meself these days into the god books of the Dean to lemme have a shot at it If he kicks me ass out I guess will have to devise another way.I am sure I learned it in Physics aaaaages ago Cheers, Porky Hi KLM, Thanks for your kind words, you're welcome for that infamous ride when the project is done. Cheers, Porky

Hey Dude, You got it buddy, as I know you are a fellow Nissan fan, so I think you will find it interesting how these cars can be boosted. Cheers, Porky

Dear Fellow Forum Member and Cohorts in Automobile Tyranny, To set the record straight, I am not building my Nissan for the express purpose of dragging. Though the thought has crossed my mind and it does have its juvenile phalic extending appeal my purpose to mod has simply been to see the extent a 1.5 liter car can be pushed on stock internals. Since this project has started I have spared little expense in getting my car to the level of a truly fast sports coupe. When finished I hope to be pushing around 300+ bhp with around 21 psi of boost. Sure this maybe incredible numbers to you my fellow mates but I have decided to take an unusual route in bringing down manifold temperatures so as not to warp and destroy my pistons. The mechanical mods and tuning of the car will take some time and I expect (fingas crossed) it to be running perfect stoich rich probably around December. There are a few very intelligent and kind gentlemen who will be helping me along the way (names withheld to protect the guilty ). After all this is done and Mr. Rohith gives me the due lessons on racing I MAY consider entering ONE drag. I MAY also consider at that point in giving a few of you fellow a ride in my ride. So till then let us leave it be and those of you who want help in modding your cars can get through to me my advice is always free. Your humble friend and tuner, Porky

Hi ZZ, You're right Olgatroz has a very very bad reputation... Cheers, Porky

Hi, Yes you get the orbital sander attachment and fix to your drill with the proper grit surface and sand the puppy down. Cheers, Porky

[ Zz i dont know what ya call those gauges in that area too.. not the door panel.. but towards the right side frame of the windscreen.. i think i ve put it out in the correct way lolz.. Hi, I think it is called the windscreen pillar. Porks Hi, Look you guys if Hola don't wanna drag then leave him be, once he gets new rims and if he lets me.....and its not a day I've spent hanging out by poolside with brewskies....Hola you know whatta mean by this Toy Ni*ga..... I will drag his car for him.....I also believe that modding it for more hp gains does give better driving pleasure as opposed to reasons of simply dragging against another in a straight line. Cheers, Porky

Hi, I think your problem maybe in your brake bias being not set correctly and also you haven't bedded in your brakes and are experiencing green fade. Green fade is a type of fade that manifests itself on brand new brake pads. Brake pads are usually made of different types of heat resistant materials bound together with a phenolic resin binder. Green fade is dangerous because many people assume that new brakes are perfect and can be used hard right off the bat. Green fade typically will occur much earlier than normal fade so it can catch a driver that is used to a certain car’s characteristics unaware. Typically the onset of green fade is rather sudden, further increasing the danger factor. Green fade can occur if you change the pads and drive on the street for a few hundred or even thousand miles, never braking hard, then suddenly start using the brakes hard. Green fade can be prevented by bedding the pads. This is a simple procedure to boil off the resins and break in the pads under controlled conditions. The way to eliminate green fade is to properly bed or break in your pads before you have to use them hard. The trick is to get rid of the volatile elements of the binder resin without overheating or glazing the pad. If you have ever seen your brakes smoke? That smelly stuff is the volatile resins being cooked out of your pads. Bedded pads will not smoke very easily. It is better to bed new pads on older rotors. Older rotors are seasoned and more dimensionally stable making them less likely to warp or crack while bedding. Older rotors for some reason are less likely to glaze new pads. When replacing your pads, sand your rotors with an electric drill with a 220 grit sanding disc, putting a light cross hatch pattern on them. This helps break the glaze on the rotor and aides in bedding the new pads quickly. Install your new pads and go for your bedding run. Before making the first stop after changing pads pump the brake pedal before you really need to stop. The pistons are fully retracted into the caliper when you change the pads and the pedal will be real long at the first brake application. When bedding the pads, be very careful as the brakes will not work to well until you are done. The way to bed brakes is as follows: On the open road when there is little traffic drive at about 60-80 kmph and apply the brakes, dragging them while giving the car gas to maintain the speed. Drag brakes for about 10 seconds and release. Drive for about 1 minute to allow the brakes to cool, then drag the brakes again for about 20 seconds. The brakes may begin to smoke, stink and you might feel a bit of green fade at this point but that is normal. Drive for another minute to cool things off again and drag the brakes for 30 seconds. You should defiantly be smelling the brakes now and feeling some green fade. Be careful at this point as now you will not be able to stop too well if you had to. Drive about two minutes and repeat the process. You might have to repeat this up to three times. You can tell when the pads are bedded when you don’t feel the onset of green fade any more. Be careful not to overdo the bedding process or you could glaze your brand new pads or even warp or crack your rotors. Hope this helps. Cheers, Porky

Hi Monamu, What's the tire pressure you're running and the size of your tire (ex. 195/55 R15)? Cheers, Porky

Yo TG, Hmmmm yes that brand sound familiar come to think of it but it is veeeeery expensive, waaaaay out of your league. But to answer your question yes I have configured them before Cheers, Porky

Once we install and wrap the new header your engine bay temps will come down so much you can touch the header with your hands! That's gonna be about as cool as anything is going to get under the bonnet, due to this the point of wrapping the intake piping become redundant as the air sucked in at that point will be many degrees cooler than at present. Another way to reduce would be to cut into your fender wall and plumb the filter outside but I think in your case this is pointless. Cheers, Porky IAT meters do exist but what's the point, same with Vacuum and Voltage. For Normally aspirated cars like you guys this is just silly ass ricing. If you want to get meters get an Air/Fuel ratio meter (so you know if you're running lean or rich) and a Water Temp meter (so you know if ur ass is overheating). Install meters for the sake of having info on hand you really need. The meters I recommended should be good ones not the cheap ass autgauge stuff u see everywhere because the accuracy of your info will save you money and your car. With meter I recommend Defi but if not Autometer will work fine. With air/fuel you know if your car's tuning is off at which time you need to check all the parameters that may effect it and tune accordingly. With the water temp you know if your car is running too hot at which time you can check and fix and/or adjust your cooling system.......aaah come time think of it if you really really want I guess a voltage meter would be OK just to ensure you're not gona run out of juice for your killa stereo system (NOT) Cheers, Porky Ado, if you really want to get gauges get Air/Fuel, Water Temp....and OKOK I let you have something....Volts. Don't get cheapo inaccurate gauges though, get at the very least Autometer Sport Comp....and to mount in a non ricey-i-wanna-look-like-im-running-boost-but-aint look suggest you fill up some of that extra DIN slots below your stereo. Rims as I told you we go put em on and if you notice ANY, and I mean ANY difference in the ride we change em OK? Cheers, Porky

Yo Hola, Gee thanks for the kind sentiments and also to the Don, I am here to help where I can n keep my trap shut on where I can't As for the specific Russina brand ....AHEM..... no clue never hear I only go with Cisco.....Russian I only savor caviar....and the finer things in life.....as you may full well know my fellow toy n**ga Cheers, Porky

Hey dudes, Well well is nice to hear you guys are having a time with yourselves and am glad to have been of assistance. Hola (toy N**ga) I suggest getting the rims first simply because I can't test it beyond 140 with the current set. With speed you need control and I pushed it to the limit that day so if you want to push 180 I suggest we do the rim swap first. Then well can go for the exhaust. Finally we can fiddle a bit with your fuel via either HKS chip or adjustable fuel pressure regulator. After that stage you might have to sacrifice ride comfort for stiffer springs....but is upto you really. ZZ you need to fix some time up to install the header, with the ceramic coat and the heat wrap we can bring down your engine bay temps quite significantly, which I feel is important since you don't have a vari select tranny like Hola's and we need to do everything possible to lower backpressure and increase exhaust gas velocity. As for this dragging business well boys have fun but remember to keep it safe, know the limits of your car, its OK to be balsy but don't be a retard Cheers, Porky

Yo Hola, You need an ADSL wireless router. I gots me a Cisco Linksys cost me around 18K from Singapore. If you want one lemme know as I will be going in a few weeks I can pick one up for you cheap. They're easy to setup and I can configure it for you too bro. Cheers, Porky

Yo Hola Hola Hola, Am glad to have been of assistance and look forward to helping you out with your future mods. Yes I think we did hit 140 in Sports mode Nex Gen your ceramic coeated header has hopefully arrived can't wait to see and expereince the results on that installation. Cheers dudes, Porky

Hey dudes, Simple physics EXACTLY! Ok this is my expereince and my 2cs worth on this. Most us folks go and put big ass wheels n tires but don't think about what lies beneath. A suspension system is a highly sophisticated sereis of components that come together to give a certain drive feel to a vehicle. Some of us have stock RS suspensions which come with sports springs, matched shocks, sway bars and ride control (eve electronic, this controlls the damping force of the shocks). Most of us don't. So when we upgrade one part we overlook the other connected components and end up suffering. From my expereince I had crapola 14s on my car when I got it and the tire size was 195/14 60, I then upgraded to 195/14 55 but noticed the ride was still the same. Once I got a bit more flo jo I got me some 16s and added 205/50 16s but still the ride comfort remained the same. I did on purpose upgrade the springs, sway bars front n rear and shock mounts. This gave me a harder stiffer ride but I was OK with that because I needed to be able to put the increased engine power on the the tarmac effectively and not lose control. Now I have upgraded to 17s with 205/40 17ZR......still waiting for the wheels to clear so I will post how the ride feels. Also my shocks have manual adjustable damping so I set them to soft and this improves the bump by quite a bit. My conclusion is this, if you're going to increase your tire size, n rims etc....at least put in heavy duty shock mounts. Secondly I ran an even tire pressure of 28psi and noted that this is the best for daily driving in crap roads. For performance I went with a 32/34 setup and feel the control is a bit better but the ride definitely harder. So if you guys ae running fat ass rims suggest you go with the slightly lower pressure of 28 all round. Cheers, Porky