Davy

Hi Guys, While some might think that upholstering a car is something that you should leave to the professionals, there are many parts of upholstering that can be done at home with very few tools and little effort. We’ll be looking at restoring cracked upholstery and this is specifically rexine. My illustration is for door cards, but this can very well be applied to dashboards and other rexine surfaces as well. I’ve always avoided applying strong cleaning solvents on my dashboard and other surfaces inside the car, but even when I bought the car I noticed that the rexine on the door cards were starting to crack. Probably years of strong chemicals plus the car being in the hot sun at times. Anyway, this is the issue I have had: As you can see, the rexine is cracked and is lifting off from the door card. I’ve already taken off one door card for my experiment and I’m not go into details about how to get the door card off because it varies from vehicle to vehicle. Just mind the electrics, keep track of where the clips and bolts go and you’ll do fine. So we have our panel at hand now. Let’s begin. What you need: New rexine. I got mine from Wijerama (Nugegoda) and it was 550 bucks a Meter. A Meter is more than sufficient to cover all four door cards in my case. Had to hunt a lot to find the exact shade and pattern. Contact adhesive (aerosol can preferred but even a tin of Multibond will do. I couldn’t find a spray can so I stuck with Multibond) A small brush to apply the glue A (very) sharp blade and scissors A heat gun (or hairdryer. Heat gun is better in this case) Measuring tape, Marker/Pen Step 1: Preparing The Surface In my case, the door card was two panels held together. The panel with the rexine finishing, which is the top part, needed to be taken off from the other panel in order to complete the job neatly. Otherwise the new rexine needs to be tucked in between the panels which might cause it to come out with time. I’m not gonna go into the details of how I managed to get the panels parted, but after the rexine panel was removed, I Carefully peeled away the rexine (in such a way that I can get measurements if needed). Also, underneath the rexine was a very thin Styrofoam kind of layer I was able to remove only the rexine without damaging this spongy layer. Step 2: Cut The New Rexine Using the old rexine as a rough template, make markings using the pen and measuring tape. Make sure you leave about an inch or two of a margin because the rexine has to go over all the contours on the panel. You do not need to worry about openings and screw holes in the panel. Those can be worked out at the very end. Just cut the outline. In my case it was a rectangular piece of rexine. Step 3: Paste The Rexine Start with one edge of the panel. Apply a layer of glue using the brush onto the panel. Apply a liberal amount of glue onto the underside of the rexine and align them properly. Place them together along the edge first. Leave to dry. After the edge has dried up, start pulling the rexine along the contours of the panel. Keep applying glue on both surfaces (more onto the rexine side) and keep applying pressure and stroke the rexine as if you are pasting a sticker while preventing air from being trapped inside. It’s highly unlikely that air will get trapped under the rexine as the spongy layer kind of lets the air out. Where there are edges and lines on the panel, use the heat gun on the rexine and apply pressure. This causes the rexine to form itself well around the panel. Make sure you don’t overheat the rexine or it will start to melt. I tried heating a piece of rexine before actually trying this on the panel to get an idea about how long it can last with the heat gun pointed onto it. Cover the entire surface and you’ve got a neatly covered panel. Now’s the time to cut away the parts that are no longer necessary (in my case, the opening for the door handle). Cut the excess parts along the edges with a blade and fold them inside. Use glue to make sure that the folded edges don’t come off. Step 4: Put Everything Back Together Install everything and you’re done! I’m really happy with how mine turned up. I had to spend about an hour or so for just this one small panel. Takes a lot of time and patience. It was dark when I finished, so I couldn’t install the door card back into the car. Will do so tomorrow and snap another pic or two. Here are some (not so clear) photos until then. That's about it for now gents. Thanks for reading! EDIT: Continued here (more photos and information).

I agree with The Don. Since the camera comes on, it's probably a connection issue between the monitor and the camera system. Should be an easy fix. You may also want to check if there is a software option in your head unit to disable the screen from automatically going onto "reverse cam" mode when the camera is switched on.

Seriously didn't know it was that bad.

Totally agreed! (as per my previous post). Looks like we've been thinking along the same lines at around the same time.

The chances of an ICV failing after using carb or throttle body cleaner on it depends on how it's cleaned also. If the TB cleaner is directly sprayed onto the ICV straight out of the pressurized can, chances are that the carbon that is already on the ICV could get pushed further into the actuator mechanism and even inside the bearing and the motor housing as well. The UniMo contact of mine mentioned something similar to this even before he diagnosed the car. His words were that the carbon washed in by the TB cleaner probably caused the motor to get stuck. Thereby it would have overheated and caused one of the two coils to burn. I thought this was a logical explanation. I'm yet to get hold of a multimeter and check if the coils are intact. There are three tiny holes on the ICV to allow the motor to breathe and not overheat. This is probably where the TB cleaner leaked in. Also, if you look closely at my dismantled ICV motor armature, the magnet is fully covered with a thick layer of carbon which probably was a result of TB cleaner pouring along the actuator and then into the mechanism. So If you must clean the ICV, Use TB cleaner on a clean rag and wipe the ICV actuator with it carefully, making sure no TB cleaner gets anywhere close to the motor. Not sure if compressed air will help, but it should be better than spraying TB cleaner directly I guess.

Glad I could help. Awaiting your updates after the weekend. Good luck!

Yeah, considering the fact that it's nearly 40,000 at the agent, this is quite a good price I guess. And here's the new ICV: This is how the car idles now. As smooth as ever. https://vimeo.com/91508767 Also, I couldn't help but try dismantling the old ICV as per the instructions in the YouTube video I had shared earlier. And most of the people who tried this had broken the plastic locking mechanism of the actuator because the plastic was brittle. Mine was no exception. It just snapped into a million pieces as soon as I held the pliers to unlock it. (Covered the actuator with a piece of thick cloth to try avoid damaging it, but no luck) I took it apart and tried spinning the motor while the armature was still in the housing and it was really difficult to turn it and it wasn't smooth either. The small bearing makes a massive noise too, as it's worn out. Here's the mess I made.

I got my hands on the new ICV toady. Set me back 12,000 as I mentioned before, but it was a brand new unit with packing as well. Swapped it with the old one, reset the ECU and BAM!! - the idle is back to normal!!! Perfect idling with and without AC. Can't even feel the AC coming on now because the idling is kept spot on. No abrupt increases in RPM as well. Happy happy happy! The Don, thanks again for the help and the very valuable information shared here. I'm sure someone will find this useful someday.

Nice! You should try and find a transparent timing belt cover too. Those cam sprokets desreve not to be hidden!

Check your inbox.

Well I don't think I remember seeing any Mirage coupes of that era. There's one Mirage coupe at Athurugiriya but that is the one that came alongside the Lancer CK. So I guess you've got some treasure over there at home, just waiting for you. I'm positive that I saw a half cut. It was this greenish silver colour and it was on the left hand side of the road when travelling from Maharagama towards Nugegoda. I'll confirm the location if and as soon as I find it. I'm always on the lookout for Mitsu parts when I pass the area by bus especially, so I'm pretty sure that I was not dreaming.

I let the car run for a few minutes or so and I did pull the accelerator cable to race the engine a couple of times, but the result was the same. And no I didn't touch the idle adjustment screw as I figured that it's already preset by the manufacturer. There is this paint marking over the screw to indicate the position set by the manufacturer and it's on that exact spot. Oh well, I guess I'll only get to know today when I try out the new ICV. Hoping for the best. A Mirage coupe? That's one rare car right? I've seen the saloon and the hatch, but I don't think I've seen a coupe over here. Since this is from the same period as the Lancer CB (which is somewhat popular), you could be looking at a lot of intergchangeable parts from the CB. Arn't the fenders also compatible? Or do you have the version where the turn indicator is a bit different from the CB (in which case the fender is different)? Roof rust was a problem on the Lancer CB as well. I know of a guy who had a Lancer CB3 who had a lot of trouble due to roof rust. He ended up repairing it and re-doing the whole headliner as well if I remember. If yours has a stock 4G15 engine, you should be able to easily source engine parts off Panchi IMO. Also, I'm pretty sure I saw a front cut of a Mirage (of this era) somewhere in between Delkanda and Gansabha Junction in Nugegoda. Will confirm the next time I pass by. Keep me posted on when you're ready for the parts, I will give you the contacts and even join you in the search.

I suppose people who tamper odometer readings and stuff in Sri Lanka have also broken into each of the manufacturers' facilities and found out how to do it. Seriously dude, thanks for the heads up and all about he recall, but it seems like Toyota Lanka has already addressed the issue. You're kind of over-reacting don't you think?. Plus, what's with all the "flipping the forum" upside down, posting this on every thread you found and opening multiple threads? Just because you post everywhere doesn't mean that people will take you seriously. It makes us think that you're trying to pull off some marketing gimmick here.

Yeah, true. My dad was one reason I became a grease monkey. He was so reluctant to take his car to garages and opted to DIY most of the repairs because he wanted it done right. I used to sit back and watch in awe wen I was little. Learnt a lot from him and even now I call him to give me a hand, when he's around. As for the RPM shooing up, I left the engine on for a good 5 minutes or so, but it was the same. Do you think I should have left it running for longer? Or taken the car for a test drive maybe? I honestly didn't feel comfortable because the engine was sort of screaming at 3000 RPM and the whole power plant was moving back and forth with a lot of stress on the mounts because of the rapidly changing idle. Looks like you have had your times with throttle bodies huh? 2 spares is a lot! And thanks for the kind offer machan, if you had a matching ICV, I could have easily diagnosed the issue too. Let me know when you're ready to purchase parts for the Mirage. I know a couple of other guys who might be able to source parts for you.

To check the PCV, do the following: Remove the PCV from the crank case end first. Then remove the hose on the other end of the PCV from the intake manifold. Finally, remove the hose from the other end of the PCV. Now you should have the PCV and the hose separately. Make sure the hose is not clogged. If the PCV is working properly, it should not allow any air to travel from the intake manifold end to the crank case end. It should allow free flow on the other direction. You can carefully blow from both ends of the PCV to ensure that the above behaviour is what you get. I remember the workshop manual describing the insertion of a small wire from the crank case end of the PCV to make sure that the valve is operating, but blowing should suffice IMO. Make sure you wipe the PCV to make sure no oil gets into your mouth. Do a search, there were several threads on how to clean the PCV as well. To your second question: Yes, you can remove the ICV without having to remove the entire throttle body. All you need is a philips screwdriver to take off the air intake assembly and the three screws holdiing the ICV onto the throttle body. Make sure you place the ICV gasket carefully to avoid vacuum leaks.

The ICV was picked out by the contact at UniMo and he quoted 15,000 for it but I managed to get it down to 12,000. Considering the fact that a brand new costs almost 40,000 at the agents, I thought this was the right call. The ones on eBay also cost about the same amount or higher to be bought down. About the models of ICV that looks the same, yes I almost ended up buying one but did not because the actuator was short. I remembered this place at Bellanthara where I bought my radiator from, and thought of checking it out last week. I went there by three wheeler on the first day and asked for the ICV and they emptied a whole big box of ICVs in front of me. I did a bit of peering and found out a couple that looked almost the same. I had seen the same model on the net when I was Googling for this (and with the same part number too), but I was reluctant to buy because it was shorter. They asked 6000 for it and I told them that I will bring the car on the following day and try it on and buy if it works. So I took the car there and took off the ICV myself and installed the one they had after "correctly" cleaning the ICV with a bit of carb cleaner on a cloth. Unfortunately, as soon as I started the engine, the RPM shot upto 3000 and swung back and forth from 2500 to 3000 in a breathing pattern. So I didnt end up buying the thing. The guys at the spare parts shop asked me "sir mokadda oken kerenne?" and I had to lecture them about what an ICV is and it's function. You know what machan, I think you and I have followed the same path. I have had the same feelings about my career. It was between automotive engineering and computing, and for pretty much the same reasons as you, I selected computing and have been at it for over 6 years now - all good. But looking back, sometimes I wish I had thought differently back then. So I know exactly what you mean. This is probably why I find reasons to take off parts of my car during the weekend and create problems that arn't even there, with the hope getting some grease on my hands.

Oh look! We have customers already! By the way, I managed to find an ICV and I will be collecting it tomorrow. Will update on the outcome. Fingers crossed!

Since the tune-up has been done only recently, we can rule out a dirty throttle body which can cause high idle RPM. The next possibility is a leaking vacuum line. Do a visual inspection around the throttle body to see if one or more vacuum lines are leaking. As for the fluctuating idle, check if your PCV valve is working properly and if the connecting tube is not blocked. If everything is fine, it's most likely a sticky ICV. Cleaning it should solve the issue.

Right. So you're saying that the RPM fluctuation doesn't have a connection of whether the AC is on or off. Correct? Or is it that it goes over 1000 particularly when the AC is on? When you said tuneup, did they take the throttle body and clean that as well? Are you noticing all this after the tuneup or was this there all along? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm trying to rule out certain other issues before confirming that it's a faulty ICV. For now it does sound like the ICV gets stuck randomly.

The recommended idle RPM of the CS3 is 750 ± 50. As long as the car maintains the RPM within this range, you are OK. This of course excludes the first few minutes after a cold start because the engine idle mechanism raises the idle RPM to about 1200 in order to get it to operating temperature soon. Again, this is normal. I'm guessing that the symptom in traffic occurs at the moment your AC compressor disengages. I have experienced the same and this is due to the Idle Control Valve (ICV) being sticky. This unfortunately is not normal. You feel as if it takes 10 - 15 seconds to come back to normal because the AC compressor engages again at about that time, and the RPM drops back to normal. Does this happen all the time? When was the last time you did an EFI tune-up?

Gosh, I thought my earlier reply made sense. Let me try again: Good brands are not cheap. Good brands are what I have mentioned in my earlier post (3M rubbing compound and Turtle Wax). There are other brands like EagleOne and MARPA which are also okay. Moratuwa is not some rural area where you are unable to find stuff easily. Just drive to the nearest auto spare parts shop and ask them for the above parts. They are available in Arpico Supercenters and even in some Cargills supermarkets. No one on the forum keeps a log of rubbing compound prices and wax prices machan, just drive there and find out for yourself! Of course. It's not rocket science. Let Mr. Miyagi explain: Read the instructions on the rubbing compound container. You'll need some clean dry rags. Most solid wax tubs come with a application sponge. You don't need a buffing machine to do all this. Go one panel at a time. Take your time. Even if you do two panels per day, you'll be done in about a week or so. Better than not doing it at all. Let me go over the steps once more since you sound a bit confused. 1. Select a panel you wish to cut and polish (that's what this is called). 2. Wet the panel with a garden hose, keep the hose running slightly. Tear off a small piece of sandpaper (say 3in x 3in) and start gently sanding from a corner with the hose pointing to the spot that your sandpaper is on. Be gentle to not cut too deep into the paint. After this point, the paint will look as dull as ever. 3. After you have covered the entire panel with the sandpaper, switch off the water. Let the panel dry. Apply rubbing compound as per the instructions on the container. Your paint will start to shine again. Repeat as necessary to bring a good shine. 4. Apply wax, according to the instructions on the container. 5. Repeat steps 1 to 4 on all the remaining panels.

Probably a lot. As a matter of fact, I did talk to a mechanic about this and he advised me to clean the ICV with a bit of petrol or carb cleaner. I guess it depends on the ICV unit itself. The ICV that jdnet has cleaned using carb cleaner at the begining of this thread is a metal unit and it looks like it can be cleaned that way - just an assumption. My ICV hates carb cleaner and I'm guessing most Mitsubishi ICVs also do. I definitely learnt a lot through the whole experience, and I know what to look out for the next time I try this. So, combined, we really can start a workshop!

1. For your first point, I think some throttle bodies shouldn't be sprayed with carb/throttle body cleaner at all. The best practice should be to spray the cleaning liquid onto a clean piece of cloth and clean the throttle body with it. This of course means that you will not be able to any cavities as your third point describes - which is good. The below extract is rom my workshop manual and it specifically mentions all this: 2. For your second point, yes this is true. I will never in my life apply carb cleaner onto an ICV again. If you really want to clean the ICV, the best way is to apply carb cleaner onto a cloth and clean the ICV with it. To add more on to your list: 8. If the throttle body is taken off from the intake manifold to be cleaned up, make note of the way the throttle body gasket is installed. I read in the manual that erratic idle maybe caused by positioning the gasket incorrectly during installation. 9. If gasket maker is used to re-seat the throttle body on the intake manifold, use as little gasket maker as possible. Using excessive amounts of gasket maker can cause some cavities to get sealed off which will result in idling problems. 10. If there is no restriction of spraying carb cleaner on the vehicle specific to you, then make sure you remove all sensors from the throttle body (TPS, ICV) before you do.

Okay here's an update: I went to UniMo in the morning and got the car checked up. The mech scanned the car with a Mitsubishi specific dagnostic unit and observed the behaviour of the car for about 10 minutes. This was one instance on which I wished that all the issues with the fuel injection system would surface, so that I could get to know them. Anyway, after scanning, he confidently said that the issue is with the ICV (They call it the "stepper motor" - the same term used in the workshop manuals.). According to him, this is a common issue on the CS especially after doing about 100,000km. So The Don is right. And yes, I think the ICV was on its way out from a long time judging by the unpredictable behaviour in rare occasions. Time to source a new one now. Hoping for the best! Thanks mate! I think I'm begining to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

The Don, Thanks mate! The steps in the first link you've shared is explained exactly in that order in the workshop manual. Unfortunately, my multi meter is busted and I'm unable to test at home. I too am pretty sure that it's the ICV. I went to work by car today and I had the ICV connector disconnected the whole time. The idle although pretty low during a cold start reached about 1500 when warm and I could drive with the AC on as it came down and settled at 800 and didn't move at all. No fluctuations. I spend quite a few minutes stuck in traffic too. I called this contact of mine who works at UniMo and explained the situ over the phone and he asked me to come over so that he can check everything out and help me isolate the problem. I think they have a special harness that plugs into a diagnostic scanner from which they can check the ICV (and any sensor for that matter) to determine if they are faulty. When I explained to the guy what I did, his first response was that they do not clean the ICV using carb cleaner as it causes problems. :S So you're absolutely right on this on your very first reply. If the ICV is faulty (which I'm guessing it is), then I'll first look for a recon one at Delkanda, or order from eBay. Frustrating days... sigh!