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hahahahahahahah you guys crack me up! ok i mean "front wheel" by you guys there........don is totally right....if your altenator isnt working properly then you shouldnt be using your car....period. as far as CO poisoning you would have to be pretty stupid to run a car inside anywhere thats inclosed.....garages usually have exhaust extraction for this very reason when mechanics have to run a car inside. so other than if you have a leaking exhaust (which you should have fixed regardless) you are perfectly safe running a car and not going anywhere. + theres the point that CO poisoning is known as the "silent killer" -well ive had a mild case if it before myself and you dont just suddenly pass out, you start to feel tired and your body doesnt feel quite right and whats the most normal thing to do if you dont feel quite right? have some FRESH AIR. so when it happened to me i pulled the door handle and promtly rolled out of my car onto the wet tarmac. scary experience yes, but common sense made sure im alive.

get them direct from germany mate, will be the cheapest if buying OEM parts

yeah i find 2nd much easier to bump start with too. had a propper look at my rear sprocket today when i had a new tyre fitted....then ordered the right sprocket so thanks for that mate got some shocking wiring on my bike, alot of wires twisted together and just tape over them, going to have to strip mine to sort my lights out

you want a disco 4 mate, twin turbo and no lag when you boot it I want an rs500 focus....most powerfull fwd production car to date and god is it nice to drive!

how is your rear sprocket attached? mine seems to be.....riveted.....doesnt strike me as being right? having a chain and sprocket set brought out to me this week hopefully from the uk along with a k&n oil filter so will have to tackle this issue very soon as my chain is very much in the danger zone

on 99% of cars, vans and trucks when you switch ac on the ac fans will also switch on. It is to aid extra cooling to the radiator and the condensor. ive said 99% as im sure there is a car out there that will be the odd ball and wont switch its fans on for a few mins but i have yet to see one. as others have said engine rpm is slightly raised to compensate the clutch being switched on at the compressor, but engine rpm is only slightly raised just like it is with PAS. if your at idle and turn the steering wheel lock to lock the engine ecu reads that engine speed is at idle and raises it to stop stalling. Using ac at idle does not put extra strain on an engine and the cause of vibrations is not because the engine is finding it tough to handle. engine vibrations are a natural side effect of having pistons going up and down in the bores from an explosion of fuel.....vibrations are absorbed via the engine mounts but naturally the higher the rpm range the less vibration is felt as the engine cycle is speeding up. In regards to timing belts and servicing, ANY vehicle that lives with a longer engine running time than usual has different service schedules that are more often i.e. taxi, bus, city delivery vehicle and this will be listed on the vehicle service sheet same as if the vehicle is often used in hard conditions.

yes its possible and yes there are great benifits. efi give you far more control over your engine. even more if you can go distributerless ignition. If doing this for better fuel consumption i would not do it as the ford cobra link has done. that has been designed to keep the carb look but have efi. an engine creates the best throttle reaction and power when an injector is places just behind the throttle body butterfly but the best fuel consumption when placed as close to the cylinder head as possible. it would be a lot easier to just change the engine for an efi model however as everything is there to start with and you wont have to have manifolds made up etc. this will be more your thing for fuel economy http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/Megasquirt/preparation.html

sounds like the shuddering is a missfire that is clearing once the engine gets hot. leave it for a few days then check your ht lead connections to the spark plugs and all other engine electrical plugs. if there is water getting in, it could short the signal then once engine is hot the water evaporates and the signal becomes good again. could also be that the wrong oil grade is being used in the car, mazda and fords have a big issue with cold running if the wrong grade is used as the hyrdraulic tappets dont fill up enough and so the valves arent opening as they should but once hot they are fine.

sounds to me like a suspension knock rather than engine mounts. jack the front of the car up and check for free play in the lower arm ball joints, antiroll bar links, anti roll bar bushes and the shock top mounts. it could still be engine mounts but they would have to be pretty broken up for the knock to be heard whilst going over rough surfaces. can you move the engine a lot with your hands?

dude i used to live in the states and that is NOT the "craze". what you are refering to is pimp my ride special. aka lets take a piece of crap, fiberglass some random bumpers onto it, big stereo, an exhaust that looks like a rocket launcher, some tacky chrome rims and done. but lets leave the half dead engine in there and paint just the outside of the car in a bright orange or pink. modifiying in the states is mostly well done to decent jap imports or muscle cars and usually its done very well as materials and money is not something america lacks. this this is known in the uk as a barry car. check out www.barryboys.co.uk dont worry though, they do it here too, ive seen loads of lancers where its clear that the owner wishes so badly it was an evo.

when I was a young apprentice I had a mishap with some superglue that spilled onto the wing of a car, so I immediately sorted out the car but when I was done I realised the superglue bottle cap was stuck to my finger with a ring of glue around it.....because of health and safety at work I had to go to the hospital....all they did was fill a jar with olive oil and made me put my finger in it for 10mins. After 10 mins the glue just slid off my finger in a ring. Much easier and quicker than rubbing with anything. Just dip and wait.

mate i get this all the time. i dont even bother to argue with them, i got fined last week for overtaking a 3 wheeler with them saying i didnt have a clear view..................it was a straight empty road apart from the 3 wheeler and me.......how more clear do you want it!?

The word you guys are looking for is servo assisted. A petrol engine uses the vacuum from the inlet manifold for the brake servo. A diesel uses a brake pump that creates a vacuum which is normally driven off a small camshaft lobe. (range rover sport and disco3 tdv6 engines have a recall for this, due to the non return valve failing and causing the servo to fill up with oil, if you have a tdv6 remove the vacuum line and put a straw down inside the servo to check if you have oil inside it. if there’s oil you need the modified valve and the servo replaced) Your handbrake may use your rear brake pads or it may use shoes which are inside your rear discs and will be the same sort of setup as if you had rear drum brakes. Your hand brake may just need adjusting. So I would look and see which type of handbrake setup you have and then adjust accordingly. if you still have 3mm of pad left and you have a pad handbrake setup this should still hold on a hill so it needs adjusting.

ahhh i nice british built motor the owner has clearly got some deep deep pockets to bring that over here

Right guys I’m currently on the hunt for a motocross bike. Searched the internet and not found what I’m looking for this side of Colombo (I’m in Galle) so I’m down to word of mouth....problem is when trying to tell people what I’m looking for I’m using the words "motocross/scrambler/trail/dirt bike" and people just look at me like I’ve just asked them if I can borrow their wife! I’m putting this down to lanka calling these type of bikes a different name as I’ve seen a fair few riding down the road but I haven’t been able to catch up with one in my truck yet to ask the rider so my question is what do you guys call them?? Picture just incase your reading this and thinking what on earth is this guy on about. and if anyone knows anyone down this way whos selling one please do let me know! not looking for a new bike, preferably something quite old that i can just strip and rebuild.

A thermostat is not an electronic item or a sensor. It is a type of valve that is wax filled. The wax stays hard and keeps the valve shut until engine coolant has warmed up to a set temperature. The wax then melts and allows the valve to open letting coolant out of the engine block and to the radiator. It is designed to make warm up time of an engine faster thus improve fuel economy. The fan switching on and off is controlled by a fan switch. This is will turn on and off at set temperatures. It will do this by being wired straight up to the fan and it completes the circuit through the relay thus turning the fan on or on newer cars it completes the circuit and sends voltage to the engine ecu which in turn, will turn the fan off. Which method an fb14 uses I do not know, but it will be one or the other and is very simple to see which one it is. If it’s a direct fan switch (no ecu control) the wires going to the switch will be rather thick to carry the high current. The plug can be removed and bridged as a form of testing the fan works using a suitable piece of wire. If the fan is ecu controlled the wiring to the switch will be the same thickness as injector wiring, temp gauge sensor wiring etc.

sorry about that all being in bold type, i did not realise untill i had posted that it was all in bold!

I just want to clear this up: Yes machining tolerances have improved a great deal over the past 20 years as far as bearing manufacturing etc is concerned. Brand new vehicles do NOT need to be kept below 2000rpm for a period of time. it is impossible to recommend a rev range without knowing the vehicle in question as some engines rev to 5k max some to 7,8,9....it’s all in the engine design of how its intended to make power. It is RECCOMENDED that a brand new vehicle is not thrashed (revved up to the red line, driven hard, raced, abused etc) until a period of 500 miles (800km) “running in" has been done AND the oil & filter changed. this is because for those first few hundred miles any "high" spots left in manufacturing will be removed by the normal frictional wear from piston rings, bores etc. If you abuse an engine too early, the high spots get worn off and the wear continues. The oil and filter change is required as anything that’s worn off is being carried round the engine in the oil system. Engines that have been rebuilt should ALWAYS have a running in period. I would always recommend this in any country but (no offence to anyone intended) especially in countries like Sri Lanka. From what I have seen in the time I’ve spent here, due to lack of spare part availability, and in-formal training corners are cut with most of repair work carried out over here so I wouldn’t expect tolerances to be great. But regardless of who or where an engine is built a running in period of a rebuilt engine should always be done. a mate of mine holds the top speed record for road going Cosworths 323KPH.......the guys work is top notch, cost you over double to have an engine built by him compared to his competitors so naturally everything is done precisely with only the best parts used and he still runs engines in under low load only running a few PSI of boost before they are mapped correctly and higher boost run. If in doubt of how long ago the engine was rebuilt, change the oil and filter now. Be gentle with it for the next 800-1000km then change the oil and filter again. It may be in your interests to have a compression check done but this will only tell you if the head gasket and piston rings are holding pressure as they should . It will give no indication of bearing wear or small piston slap. So only do this if you are losing power, losing coolant, misfiring or the engine is pinking. The only way to measure bearing wear is with a micrometer or with a substance such as plastigauge, which requires removal of the sump then big end & main bearing caps one by one as each spot is measured. It’s a time consuming procedure and one I would not carry out unless bearing "knock" is being heard from the engine.

nice baby 4x4, nice drive, good looks. not worth it money wise in my opinion. your paying for the RR badge, very much freelander 2 in the same way as disco4 and sport are underneath. Id buy a HSE freelander2 i6 with my money.

daaaam i didnt think about the 3 year rule!

AND you can ride them on a car licence Find it a bit strange that you can’t here in lanka. Those 2 wheeled tractor things have number plates!

happy to help

there goes that plan out the window then! cheers for the info mate

ok cool thanks for the replies guys no its a replica im afriad, still turbo but 2wd not 4x4 still not slow though and shoots a pretty flame out the back

Ok guys got 2 questions for you seeing as I’m still getting to grips with the local laws and stuff . firstly can I import a road legal quad bike (atv)? they are allowed in the uk as long as they have the usual lights, indicators, horn etc but are they allowed here? Secondly, is it true that you can’t import a bike with an engine larger than 250cc? Would I be breaking the law if I bought a 250cc Yamaha locally then imported and fitted a 1000cc R1 engine? thanks!