Rumesh88

Please refer to the following thread. The issue has been discussed in depth.

To replace the oil seal the gear box would have to be removed but it is not a serious repair. I do not have an idea of the exact cost but you may have to replace some ATF fluid in the process. If you want a reference search the forum for Nilwala Motors.

This is a place that has received a few recommendations in the forum. http://autolanka.com/forums/topic/15974-good-mechanics-technicians-workshops/?tab=comments#comment-261496

oil seal behind the trans-converter must be leaking. It will continue to get worse so better get it replaced.

At Parking position a pawl at the end of a lever mechanism engages with the teeth of a ring wheel which is attached to the output shaft thus locking the wheels. If you try to engage the parking position while the car is still moving you may hear a bit of rattling sound followed by an abrupt stop of the wheels. Usually nothing bad would happen to the transmission except a bit of wearing in the pawl and teeth. Just forget it and keep driving but take care not to repeat the same mistake again.

Check your inbox. Of course you can change individual cells but if it is more than couple of cells that are faulty then it may not be worth going for a partial replacement. This is because the existing cells and replaced cells would have different charging characteristics and eventually some other set of of cells could fail prematurely. Just keep in mind that you are taking a chance and if the cells happen to match consider yourself lucky.

Do not connect your power bank while the engine is running because that might damage the bank because you get 14V alternator output continuously connected to power bank's output. Better to play safe. Of course you do have a small load of about 50mA for the ECU when the engine is off but if that is not enough to keep your power bank alive then switch on the parking lights to provide an additional load.

In that case you need to get your IACV checked for its full range of movement. As you accelerate IACV adjusts itself by opening up the idle air path so that if the throttle is suddenly closed (I mean mechanically) the engine wouldn't stall. The IACV then slowly closes and home-in at the idle position under electronic control. If the IACV has a mechanical restriction in its upper movement range then you may get a sudden jerk as you release the throttle suddenly from a high RPM because engine doesn't get the required amount of air.

Is the manual for the four wheel variant? If so that's different. In either case if you inert the finger into the plug hole you can find out.

It is 1L of SAE 90 oil. If you remove the filler plug and insert a finger inside you should be able to feel the oil surface.

If it happened after replacement of wheel knuckle then all you need is a simple wheel alignment but certainly not at a place where you have those bozos (who doesn't have any idea of simple geometry) staring at a computer screen. I am a bit surprised why the agent ignored to do the alignment after knuckle replacement. In fact you should have complained to them at that time cos it was their duty to check for proper alignment once they meddled with suspension parts.

http://autolanka.com/forums/topic/15974-good-mechanics-technicians-workshops/?tab=comments#comment-261430

You are asking an open ended question. Be a bit more specific with details like what your budget is, how many kms you intend to run each day, saloon or a hatchback etc..

I just can't believe an experienced mechanic (I mean even a makabaas who has opened up an engine block at least once to clean up oil sludge) would suggest an engine flush as a solution to remove gunked up piston rings. Oil sludge inside an engine becomes so hard you really need a scraper to remove it. Just a passive flush would not do anything at all.

Get your PCV checked. It is NOT normal to find oil in the intake side but more often than not it is a simple thing like a clogged up or stuck PCV. If not it can be due to clogged up oil baffles on the cam cover. Again not a difficult thing to clean and solve. You can refer to the thread below for more details. http://autolanka.com/forums/topic/17113-engine-miss-petrol-smell-in-cold-start/#comment-282647

As you continue to run with bad cells other goods cells too deteriorate faster. The good cells get heated up (cos they are overcharged) when the same charging current passes through all the cells in series.

That's the wrong way to adjust idle RPM in this engine. For the TPS adjustment (if required) that can be done by loosening its two mounting screws and rotating it. TPS can be rotated within a small angle. You need not bother about TPS voltage in this case because this TPS has its idle position contact unlike the three terminal TPS in some other engine models. BTW does your engine stall when you fully retract idle screw?

I assumed that you followed what the manual says. Instead what you did was the reverse (in fact you were trying to adjust the screw to get the correct positioning of TPS). You need not worry about IACV for now, but first get the TPS adjusted for the above setting. Begin with a fully closed throttle and keep a gap of 0.4mm. With engine off, check for IDL-E1 short circuit. Then move the throttle for a gap of 0.9mm and check for open circuit. If the two events does not happen then rotate and adjust TPS position. Also check if the resistance reading of the TPS slider contact moves smoothly without blank spots particularly close to idle position.

Carina AT192 is n't it? Hope you tried your adjustment with a fully warmed up engine. I will popup a few questions that comes to me almost immediately. Does your cold start routine work as expected? Was your IACV cleaned recently? It could be due to wrong adjustment of IACV or the throttle flap is not fully closing. Did you check/test/cleaned the IACV according to the manual before trying to adjust the idle screw?

@Aslam86 Try calling 0714806476.

If you tried another battery and still the engine stalled it could be due to a vacuum leak into the intake manifold. Check all the vacuum hoses connected to intake manifold.

Immediately after a few attempts to crank check if the battery terminals are hot. Check the fuse box too. If you have a meter check the battery voltage with and without headlights on. If the voltage drops immediately by a volt or so then you have a bad battery. Or else with the engine off check if the dome light flicker when you switch on the headlight.

Unless you have additional retrofitted load like a sound system, I do not see any benefit in up-sizing the battery. Of course there will be some additional work for the alternator but that should not be much of a concern unless the car is used regularly for short journeys. However, for the battery to be of same physical size, the higher capacity one would need design changes to cell plates and separators thus compromising the reliability.

Yes. If you want to save it you can collect it in a bucket and reuse. Still there will be bit of a loss which you can compensate by adding some de-ionized water.

No. You do not need any changes to existing wiring. LED lamps like the ones in the above example are simple drop-in replacements. Just be mindful when you are replacing rear parking lights to use red color LEDs not white ones.