harshansenadhir

This type of compressors are pretty troublesome in Sri Lankan context. The compressor is rotating full time but there is no GAS circulation until you press the A/C button. Then it allows GAS circulation and the pressure, the speed of GAS circulation is regulated, depending on the demand of the A/C system. I don't think you can change it to a magnetic type A/C compressor unless otherwise you change the whole system including the electrics. Best bet is to find a competent A/C mechanic who works for agent. Fellows elsewhere may not be updated with this technology yet.

Found this place thanks to MasterDon and guys did a superb job at reasonable prices. Back then they had a machine which is capable of doing chrome on plastics. Later heard that machine is not working or s'thing but better give him a call and check. Jeyadan electro platers 717 757 547

Hey you all wonderful people, thanks for all the wishes. Many thanks ripper for starting up this thread. Appologies for not showing up due to my busy and tight schedules. Once again thank you all for wishes.

90W should do though Peugeot recommends 80W. As for power steering fluid, there's a specific type of fluid to be used for the electronically controlled variable PAS system in 307. Not very common type. Check with agent and known Peugeot spare parts shops in Panchikawatta.

I don't recon 406 mandates pumping super diesel unlike the recently influxed UK used japanese double and single cabs. These engines have proven (haven't heard of any failures nor complete rebuilt yet) even in local context with pumping normal diesel and wear and tear of the engine is far less. If you can settle with a D8 diesel, that thing is better than HDI when it comes to fuel efficiency and can return unbelievable figures. The point you're missing here is the mileage these cars does for a litre. Some owners have claimed over 16 KMPL in city limits. That way you would be better off even if you pump super diesel for argument sake.

There's a piece of wood hanged and dragging behind the wheels of a bullockcart. It's called "pallam polla" don't know of any english term for translation. That thing does the work of what the brick suppose to do in your post. If the cart is to move backwards, the wooden piece gets stuck and prevents the move.

HIDs are usually in the 35W range, draws less power and emits less heat compared to ordinary bulbs.

Checked straight with C*rma*t. They are still agents for Mazda. Sri Lanka has two agents for Mazda according to them.

can't you just cut those studs off and make it to rely on the adhesive even as a permenant solution as I'm oppose to the idea of drilling a body (I know it's the original setup, but still) if that's the case you can fix it temporary and compare. Personally prefer the "photo without letters" don't know how an actual/equal comparison would change my mind as Watchman said. OTOH, are those car designers going backward on the time ? look at the design of the hood of newer cars, such as Belta's, 141's and whatnot. The hood starts from just behind the facia panel, just like in this vintage.

Some issue occured with the feed circuit while they carried the repair. Diesel flows back to the tank due to some loosen clip or rupture in one of supply tubes. Get them to check or you can check for loosen tubing or possible leaks in the feed circuit and return lines. As Ferraif50 said, it can be due to an issue in the non-return valve in the hand pump. But since this was developed after the repair, I tend to suspect the feed lines. If you need to check for faulty hand-pump, by-pass the hand pump, and fix the tubing and see whether diesel flows back to the tank or starting delay is there.

Yup, must be. Only possibility is through the wires coz either ends you get pins in a way you cannot interchange polarity.

arent the two pins of the speaker suppose to be in different sizes to avoid changing polarity?

Looks like it's got English no plates. Was it among the batch rmv issued English plates for govt auctioned vehicles ?

it's mixing hot air comes through the heater matrix to provide required temperature. Beyond certain temperature (defers from model to model) say 28 degrees, then the clutch disengages.

Never used touts but a trustwrothy three wheel driver who do the run and get the revenue license. There was a mechanism of paying 'extra' and get the license without producing the emission certificate. This method was ceased after installation of CCTV cameras he said. edit - now I know what to do if it really demands.

Good info then. Cannot reveal much but it was not an option when tried to go through bypassing the emission test,due to a newly built diesel engine, which was possible earlier.

This was the case few months back. Now they have fixed cameras to monitor the operation there and individuals are now afraid of entering fake digits to the system without having an emission certificate for real. Well, not first hand information, but this is what I got to know about it.

These aren't the only available options for that kind of money. Lot of makes/models available with different characteristics, options and fuel types in this price range. Starting from most common japanese cars like AE100, SB/FB13, CB8 to Euros to Ambassodor classic (diesel) are available in this price range. buy a weekend paper or two, where they classify vehicles. Run through asking prices, give couple of calls and try to understand the available vehicles in this range. Give a visit and see for yourself how these cars suite your tastes and requirements. Ask in this forum or any other person who knows about vehicles for more information on things to look when you're buying a vehicle. That would be a way forward to buy a better car in this price range.

higher rev is not healthy of some old diesel motors but not for petrol ones. About the revenue license, find out from the divisional secretarial office about the old license records. Since now it's all computerized and inter-connected, they will tell you the last licensed year and total amount + fine to obtain new license in minutes. If you're around Colombo, best thing is to go to RMV branch in Maligawatta.

Correct, this was the old school method. When the ignition key turned to the Start position, supply to all other accessories will be cut-off by the ignition switch itself. However, most of modern cars are now equipped with BSi s to handle such activities. In simple terms, they are capable of handling logics by considering multiple parameters (inputs) A/C compressor switch on/off (engaging/dis-engaging compressor clutch) is one thing controlled by the BSi by considering certain logics. Following is a list of such actions and the first one replaces the activity carried out by ignition switch. 1. After engine starts engages the clutch after about 10 seconds 2. If the compressor needs to be engaged, sends a signal to ECU to increase RPM and once engine revs up a little, engages the compressor clutch (avoids temporary vibration if compressor engages before RPM goes up ) 3. If the TPS reads a sudden depress of the throttle, dis-engages the A/C clutch and re-engages after a while 4. if there's a critical system failure/ risk (limp-home mode, refregirant over pressured/heated, etc) dis-engages the compressor clutch. Having said that, as VVTi also mentioned once, switching off the A/C prior to switch off the engine always helps the longevity of the entire system. A/C system always runs with high pressure (280 psi and above) during the day time of a tropical country, specially these days. If you shut down the entire system at once, heated, pressurized refrigerant will be trapped on the high pressure side. If you first shut down the compressor (A/C switch) and then switch off the engine, it gives some time to cool down the trapped heated refrigerant as auxiliary fans still be running, or you give sometime to the system to run auxiliary fans and further reduce the temperature of refrigerant. Some vehicles do equipped with auxiliary fans which will continue to run if required, even after taking the key-off but mostly it’s not the case. So best is to switch off A/C when you’re approaching the destination/parking-lot etc.

that's some useful piece of info Don and was always wanted to do this but couldn't as I was afraid the cost factor to be honest. once applied kerosene based undercoat using a brush though, that was dirt cheap but you cannot apply any paint over it, specially when it comes to inside the wheel arches, you might require to give it a paint in the body color. How about this one, you used? can it sustain another paint coat over it? Further, don't you have to have a powerful compressor to handle this job?

may be a placeboo effect. Another reason would be that you know very well at which point you switch off the A/C and may be flooring at the same time and assumes this contributes better towards releasing engine load.

What I said was there is no difference whether you switch off A/C button manually or thermostat cuts it off. In both instances what happens is current supply to the coil inside the compressor clutch unit gets disconnected and the coil gets de-magnetize. This makes the clutch to release. When the supply re-connects, the coil gets magnetized and engages the clutch.

That won't make any difference, automatically or manually, you shut off the electric coil in the a/c compressor which releases the clutch. It equals to a clutch engage / disengage cycles. Also Most of modern cars equipped with a mechanism to automate this 'turbo boost' thing many have been discussed. If TPS detects a sudden depress of the throttle, ecu or a/c control module will immediately shuts off compressor temporary and re-engages in a while.

Second Supra's suggestion. The conversions from one genre to another nowwadays is very tricky and troublesome. It's not something like you convert Petrol Montero to Diesel, using a kit delkanda/Kurunegala fellows are selling. The electronics used are inter connected (one circuit feeds input to another and so on) and this might demand a complete replacement of engine and in-dash harness and even if you do so, the indicators, gagues will not work properly. However, still such conversions are being done at the compromise of proper working gauge/instrument cluster.