gNaveendra

The sensor numbers that posted is just for example or right one? MQ-136 is not necessary because no need to measure H2S MQ-4 is also not necessary as it measures CH4 In addition to MQ-9, you may have to find a sensor to measure HC, Diesel Opacity and engine RPM. I think all these may have to be connected with Arduino. Finally you have to embed graph-function in your programming to reveal the average.

It is interesting if you could do it in your own. For the existing standards and the emission parameters measured in SL, you could refer the government official website given by Davy. I think, to cover all the parameters (pollutant types) you may have to use different sensors. The Petrol and Diesel emissions are differently measured. For instance: Petrol: CO, CO2, HC Diesel: k-factor (diesel opacity, measured using graph-function) Although emission can be detected using the sensors that you mentioned, you may have to write a program to log the measured values and apply graph function to take average. At a note, emission amount changes with acceleration/RPM as well. For a full-fledge working emission tester, you may have to include RPM senser as well. I'm very much interested to look forward your project. Please keep us informed.

I suspect the Valve in the 1st instance as Sampath mentioned! By chance if that Alloy is bent, you could expect the same. Once this happened to my iron rims. Pls do let us know the rectifications.

Better refer an old thread opened at AL in year 2008. You may find the information you expect. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/4754-difference-between-indian-and-japanese-swift/

The insecticides mentioned here is oil-based synthetic sprays. Therefore, more chance it could deteriorate/fade the car interior including hood upholsteries. Instead of this I suggest to use Cockroach Chalk. On the park floor, try mark all the car's tyres and entire car parked area for several days (keep the door/shutters open in a safe manner to make sure that roach can come out). I'm sure you will see all the Cockroaches die outside the car.

In addition to this, I suggest you to refer the following threads at AL. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/13755-power-shutter-winder-repairreplace/?hl=%2Bpower+%2Bshutter http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/13460-converting-to-power-shutters/?hl=%2Bpower+%2Bshutter#entry202367 http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/12724-how-to-fix-new-power-shutter-unit/#entry188373 The information in it may obsolete now, do let us update the current status. Thanks.

When I bought my car, it had a winding doors. I was in your same mindset to do the power shutter conversion. But I couldn't do so due to time constraint and material/professional sourcing. Now, I find winding doors better than power shutter, because of no battery draining, can raise the shutter even when the car is switched off.

Power shutter conversion can be done. But, I'm not sure whether it is a DIY one. Because, inside the door panel it involves sometimes welding works (with painting of course) too. In addition to this, wiring is a messy part as it requires dedicated wires to provide power to the motor and to the control switch in the driver-side door panel (if you want). As crosswind mentioned it is possible to buy power shutter assembly kits from online. But, its better to get it done professionally.

Seen this at fb.

May be the OP ended with bad experience. With OBD2, other than CLEARING engine check codes, we cant do beyond that, unless for monitoring sensor results. I know few people who using HUDs, keeping paired with OBD2 all the time. I think these 2 thread can be merged.

Whether it is sharp or not google will make it way. Thats why, we insist on our own photos, especially for the vehicle in SL. Its tough for me, anyway, looking forward the answer.

Please post sharp images in the future....

Yes, its a 7-seater model, YOM 10 years before. Is that right iRage?

Schiffer, pls post the full image for us see.

I would like to register a disadvantage in using a cone filter when comparing with box filter. The box type filter has the capability to prevent entering water inside the engine. It is designed in a manner to eliminate water in case of water (or any other liquid) spillage inside the air inlet. And allows less or relatively no water molecules inside the engine. Water in any form reduce the engine power consequently more smoky exhaust. The box filter also prevents any coarse materials which enters and instantly eliminates those. In order for this, there is a hole underneath the filter box helps this. It passively filter air, water and other coarse particles. Its up to you to decide on replacing your stock air filter system.

Any hints?

Oh! that was a fine guess. Honda Civic 1988. Here it is! Who is gonna take the floor? Sampath or 'The Stig'?

Well this gonna be very easy! I love this car. Hope no need for a hint.

wow, my guess was right? ok, my turn.

Is that Isuzu Florian?

To differentiate the coolant fluid from other functional fluids (transmission, brake, hydraulic PS, water), it is being dyed. Green dye coolant is based on Ethylene Glycol, used for most of the vehicles. Pink one is Silicate-free, Europeans developed this for their autos. It seem less problem with coolant pumps. But, Green or Pink both have other identical enhanced physical properties. See the link below and read for the coolant properties: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/17199-topping-up-coolant/#entry282504 But, I'm not sure whether Blue color coolant is really available in our market. For more information, refer the page below. http://bioengr.ag.utk.edu/extension/extprog/machinery/articles/engcool.htm

I super agree with The Stig. Its my personal experience, that in Yellow lights i have good judgement of the road details, especially during rainy season.

I super agree with Chan5. A pure distilled water is capable of serving coolant function. But, never use drinking water, as it contains minerals which could deposit and clog the radiator. Anyway, a dedicated coolant agents consists following properties than a pure distilled water. 1) Increased boiling point (more than 190 degree Celsius) //therefore evaporation potential is reduced, also reduces water vapor pressure inside the radiator. Reveals extended heat absorption capacity than a pure distilled water. 2) Colored dye //so that we can easily identify the leaking points 3) Corrosion inhibition //suppress corrosion in their passage, reduces chances for leaks 4) Anti-freezing //helps to prevent the freezing of coolant water in winter temperatures when vehicles are parked. Ensures the normal function of engine on next day. The 4th coolant property is not necessary for a tropical countries like SL.

Great advise from an expert in AutoLanka!

Other than Ampere and Voltage of the replacement battery, check the position of (+)ve and (-)ve poles of the battery. If that is same as the worn out one, you can easily replace that.