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Everything posted by Hyaenidae
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See, this is what I mean - it might not make any difference and could be a waste of fuel but it just feels right to start driving after the engine warms up a bit, settles on its normal idle rpm and quiets down instead of driving away when she's still grumpy
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Looks like it! (I had no idea what it is tbh. but W201 looks pretty close!) Over to you
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Imma shamelessly steal the floor 'cause @MaleCortana hasn't logged in for 2 days
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You could share the story of your ride here if you're feeling thankful
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Well if I were you I'd still wait for the car to give a temp reading before start driving #metoo
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This, I just wait till the temp gauge shows a reading. No reading=too cold to drive by my standards takes about a minute and half maybe
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@PreseaLover can concur Bugger blew the engine of his SG-imported Cefiro in less than a year
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Good, keep doing it. Furthermore, avoid sudden accelerations (like overtaking) until the engine reaches operating temperature
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OEMs are NWB for Mitsus
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What else could the manufacturer have meant when they said "use shims to adjust the air gap"? The clutch kit (pictured below) contains 8 shims and 1 of every other nut and snap rings
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The workshop manual itself explains this process: http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/lancer_x/online/Service_Manual/2010/55/html/M155200460207500ENG.HTM However it says "use shims to adjust the air gap to the standard value of 0.25-0.5mm" And here be the shims (and replacement nuts and snap rings! just $8 for the whole kit) So it seems your mechanic was right. You can add/remove/replace shims until the gap is 0.25-0.5mm, that's why those are there for
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He replaced the removed metal ring with a new one, right?
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Well that was a good tidbit to know in any case, Unimo would've suggested a complete replacement of the compressor for sure
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Did this modification affect the overall performance of the AC system? How did the AC of the ASX fare compared to the EX?
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Japan car DVD setup unlocking through Erc
Hyaenidae replied to Shan30lk's topic in General Automotive
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<Squeals in red> ?
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67kms/day huh? impressive
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And the price tag of whopping 81 million LKR!
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Isn''t the MG DCT too? You could be facing the DCT issue down the line, only this time Micro would charge you an abysmal price because you cannot find replacement clutch packs for the MG anywhere else
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Iconic wheel manufacturer BBS files for bankruptcy https://www.driven.co.nz/news/iconic-wheel-manufacturer-bbs-files-for-bankruptcy/
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Le grimace
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Wow, why so big? Original OEM wiper blades are 425mm (16.7") on the passenger side and 600mm (23.6") on the drivers side. Had to go for 18"s for the passenger side because that's the smallest they had in stock It's quite a tight fit even for the 18" blade
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Just a quick update on replacing wiper blades: Got the original NWB wipers replaced with Bosch ECO graphite-coated wipers about a month back. Couldn't find originals from the agent so went with the cheapest alternative, Rs.1500/= for both wipers. It remains to be seen how long these would last. Made in China. These have a different locking mechanism (but holds just fine) and a touch longer than original wiper blades but did a surprisingly good job so far. Passenger side takes a 18 inch blade and the driver side takes a 24 inch blade.
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Bosch ECO wiper blades - cheapest graphite coated wiper blade out there AFAIK. http://br.bosch-automotive.com/en/internet/parts/parts_and_accessories_2/service_parts_1/wipers_1/eco__improved_performance_wiper_blade/eco_improved_performance_wiper_blade_1.html
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Yeah depends on the roads you travel. Back when I owned a Belta, I experienced this jerk and shudder every time when I traveled on this concrete road which connected to the main road - it was a steep incline which would make the car roll back if you didn't use the brake. If I release the brake pedal and then accelerate the car would jerk, shudder and generally just refuse to move - the solution was to accelerate the car a bit and then release the brake. That made it way less noticeable. The Lancer though, moves with no complain regardless of how I release the brake and depress the accelerator - the only time it fails to move is when I give more than necessary acceleration input and then the front wheels would lose traction and just spin in place
