Dee Jay

Since visually, the steering multifunction buttons look the same I purchased a multifunction button set from a GP1 to replace to find out that the part isn't compatible.. the wiring is different.. So likewise it would be a 50%-50% chance of being identical. However, did some searching for the exact part with the part number and its a common part 35104-SNB-J01. @Suresh Gamage You can check with the agents with the above part number, they could have it or tec motors. This is a common part and yes its the same in Civic/ Fit/ Insight/ CRV/ Accord etc. so 2nd hand part shops would also have it..

This could be true sometimes and sometimes not.. Because even though we think stuff are similar between the IMA Honda's the FD3 is a bit unique than the rest.. However, you would be able to source your part from a used Honda parts importer. The push start is a bit rare for the FD3 since it came as standard for the JDM MXST grade and optional for the MX grade so it might be a bit costly..

@matroska have you had this issue while you were owning the GP1? Could be a bad hybrid battery and engine not in best of health?

Toy#ta L#nka should have it. Otherwise, check with Japan used auto part shops

Yes, as @iRage has rightfully mentioned above, its bot the YOM of the car that matters but how it has been treated by it's last owner is what matters. Check for service records, but don't just stop there and get the vehicle inspected by the respective agent for the brand or even #ar #hecks.. That amount spent would be an investment for piece of mind. This is a must as nowadays even people who loved cars can be having a tough time giving the proper attention the vehicle needs owing to the financial conditions of the country. Even a periodic maintenance item like a suspension overhaul or tire replacements would cost a hefty amount due to the current market prices. So, don't be fooled by the odo meter reading or the YOM since it could be 2018 imported at a reading of 50,000 km but might be needing tire replacements and shock absorber replacements which could land you with a bill of around 500k +/-. How many kilo meters are you planning on driving and how is the expected split of those kilo meters? Is it mostly city driving? Or outstation and highway? Well any vehicle that is maintained nicely would be reliable be it 20 years old or a brand new one.. Since you mentioned you're not into something sporty nor a very fuel efficient car may I know why you picked the Axio NKE-165? Well, to be frank the Axio isn't in the middle ground.. it is actually in the far end of the fuel efficient spectrum.. Fuel efficient as it can be but again like @iRage has mentioned a basic economy car with the basic creature comforts without any driving pleasure but with very good fuel economy.. I mean when it comes to the Axio it is programmed to be fuel efficient no matter how you drive it.. As alternatives you could look at the below: 1. Honda Grace : Fuel efficient and sporty (based on your mode the car would follow suite) and has better creature comforts and a cabin than an Axio. 2. Honda Fit : Again fuel efficient and sporty (based on your mode the car would follow suite) and has good options. 3. Toyota Aqua : Fuel efficient and can be quick and agile too when you need it to be. 4. Suzuki Swift Turbo : Since its a turbo car would be less fuel efficient than the hybrids but would have decent fuel economy and performance as well as options. I've left out the older cars in your budget since @iRage has covered them comprehensively. And coming back to the maintenance associated with an Axio, well Toyota hybrids of the era have battery that degrades around every 5 years of use. You do get brand new batteries here so if the one you select has an issue you can replace brand new or used battery packs. Then the brake accumulator replacement is there.. Those are the most common hybrid related repairs you should be concerned with on an Axio should you buy it.. Service records and an inspection would tell you the condition of the car

every 40,000km you should change the CVT oil.

Why not just call them and see?? Most probably around 100k with the prices these days..

I am an owner of Honda IMA hybrid for the past 7 years and no such specific maintenance required as such (at least for the Honda hybrids).. For the i-DCD Honda hybrids the dual clutch oil (NOT transmission oil) should be replaced once in every 20,000 km as per the agent (not an expensive thing). For Toyota hybrids the battery cooling vent needs to be cleaned regularly (preferably every service) as its located in a place that can get easily clogged. Apart from that Toyota hybrid batteries are known for oxidization so that should also be addressed during a battery service.. Everything else is just like a normal car.. engine oil change, transmission oil change, spark plugs change, AC service, brake oil change suspension repairs etc.

If it's outstation that you are looking for then your best bet would be Honda hybrid even the ones with DCTs.. The ones with DCTs would be more suitable for long trips as they pack more power and are fuel efficient at the same time containing better options in terms of comfort and safety. The dual clutch issue is a combination of both ill maintenance and lack of knowledge on how to drive them so as long as you get one in good condition and do the timely oil changes you'll be fine.. there are Vezels that have run over 300,000km with the original dual clutch (used mostly for outstation and highway runs). Axios have the ABS related issue as well apart from the battery worries and you are bound to get bored with it if your interested in driving as the car is not really exciting nor engaging to drive..

Since you have mentioned the fuel costs as the main reason, may I know your commuting style? Eg: Is it for your daily drive to work and a road trip now and then? How is the level of traffic in your usual route? How long is your usual commute? You should choose a hybrid based on the above.. If your commute is in a highly congested area and the trip is short you might not see a huge benefit in fuel costs as well.. And if your commute is like that you should look into Honda IMA hybrids (Fit GP1, Fit Shuttle of the same era, Insight and the FD3. This is because if your running on a very high traffic zone and short distances the hybrid battery would drain and the engine would kick in to charge the batteries which would in turn burn more fuel but since your commute is short the car won't be able to compensate the fuel that was burned by its high efficiency.. The Toyota hybrids are also suitable for high traffic areas but then that would cause their batteries to degrade very quickly.. When it comes to Toyota hybrids the batteries aren't reliable therefore whatever you save on fuel you would have to spend on a new battery.. However, Honda hybrid batteries are more reliable hence less maintenance cost do keep in mind that the Honda hybrids with DCTs (Vezel, GP5, Grace etc) aren't suited for driving in very high traffic scenarios which would result in the famous dual clutch issue..

Since the GR Corolla and Civic Type R has been lengthily discussed here, this would be an interesting comparison of the two with a drag and roll race.. They are both closely matched in terms of performance, but apart from a drag race the CTR seems to be better in other aspects including circuit driving..

Out of the choices above, for me the best option would be a Honda Fit GP5 as its the best all rounder (fun to drive, comfortable with good options (cruise control etc.) spacious and practical).. As @Gummybrmentions, the Suzuki Swift RS is also a good choice. Whatever you choose to go with, get a unit that's in good condition (an inspection at the agents for any car you buy would be a good precaution and an investment/ cost saver)

Get your hybrid battery inspected, most probably the hybrid battery has deteriorated. Do you get any indications in the dashboard and any visible error messages? What's the YOM of the car and the mileage?

Civic 11th generation e:HEV the above 2 and the diesel variant combined

Oh that's strange.. I thought all Civics had that feature.. Interesting observation that some markets do not have it..

Have you noticed any difference in fuel consumption with and without the idle stop?

@tivis the expert on Monteros and Montero Sports

Was the overheating related to the engine or the transmission? Do you have any photo of the error you got while this happened? In Sri Lanka the most common issue with the Vezel is the transmission overheated message that is mostly triggered under driving in heavy traffic conditions, which if not attended properly could lead to a dual clutch repair/ replacement.

You are going to have a hard time trying to find a 2010 FD1 since many FD1 cars here are belonging to early model years since Stafford imported many FD4 cars since around 2009. FD1 is the better car in all aspects in my opinion.

Well actually, Stafford brought down the 1.8 L (FD1) initially (pre face-lift) and many FD1 cars in Sri Lanka are agent imported. You hardly find JDM FD1 cars. The agent imported highest grade is the FD1 S with the sun-roof, pedal shifters and cruise control etc. which @fiat fan used to own. And there are many agent maintained variants of this highest grade and lower grade FD1 cars in Sri Lanka. On the other hand there are a few JDM models as well which have better fuel efficiency than the agent imported FD1 cars due to having (EPS and other additions done to the JDM market) and these these tend to be a bit more reliable as well. And the JDM FD1 cars are more fuel efficient than the FD4 as well. In real world fuel consumption there's hardly a difference between the FD1 and FD4. If the driver is heavy footed the FD1 would be better in terms of economy.

I don't think a bad DCT would throw an error code unless overheated. You would need to take it a part and physically inspect for wear. Experienced mechanics would know by driving and observing if the DCT is on its way out.

It says there's a deterioration of hybrid battery cooling performance.. Get your hybrid battery fan cleaned at Toyota or a competent garage.. This is common for Axio and Aqua as they have the battery cooling vents under the rear seat.. They get clogged with dirt over time. Best to get this cleaned every service, usually the agent does that in the service..

Start with inspecting the status of the 12V battery. Most probably it needs changing. Multiple error codes are a common scenario when the 12V battery is weak as the required voltages are not detected by the system. After changing the 12V battery clear the error codes and see if the issue is solved. If not like @iRage mentioned get the vehicle inspected by the agent or someone who is knowledgeable and experienced with Honda.

Don't turn the car on and off in quick succession especially in fuel queues these days. That is not good for the battery as well as the starter motor of the vehicle. What you have experienced is common these days with people turning the car on and off each time the queue starts to move and stop. Better to keep it running a bit so that the battery can be charged. If the SOH of the battery is bad you might need to go for a new one.

Got the same error for an English number vehicle a couple of times but I got this along with another error multiple times.. Just retry because I got this and the other one not just the same each time and after a couple of attempts (guess about 5) I got the text message saying my profile is created along with the correct vehicle number.. So I'd say just try a bit more..