MAS

The cost is very attractive. I think around 75,000 for a 4 cylinder installation.

1. The doughnut tank is to be fixed where the spare wheel is stored. Either inside the trunk or undercarriage. LPG tanks are much stronger than petrol tanks. They are made with thicker material. 2. This link will answer very well to your question about fire and in general about LPG. 3. No certification. I only got warranty for equipment and installation. Almost 12 years now and no problem whatsoever. It is a Korean unit. No external gauge, it uses the Petrol gauge but of course the reading is not 100% accurate. But looks original. Also a small rocker switch to switch between fuel types. 4. I never bothered about updating the RMV book. But the insurance company was told this is a duel fuel vehicle. 5. I was never worried about resale value. But yes, looking at the general comments here on LPG conversions, the value will get a hit. Unless you remove the kit and fine tune the car for petrol before resale.

OK now please don't shoot me. Like 12 years ago, I converted my B12 (carb model) to LPG. I didn't do the conversion at Laughs but from a small shop at Navinna. The owner was an Automobile Engineer who did the tuning himself. The car runs beautifully. I never started and stopped with petrol. I even removed my petrol tank to save weight. The engine was overhauled like 3 to 4 years later (due to worn rings). When the block was taken apart, there was no sign of burnt valves or any other damage that is supposed to happen using LPG. It actually had less carbon build up for an engine with more than 250,000 km on it. So I think LPG burns better with less engine deposits. The mechanic said it was the first time the engine was taken apart. I don't know how he figured that out. Maybe the key difference I had, compared to most of the other conversions were, that the car was tuned to LPG only. Oh, the tail pipe wasn't dry either. Moist was present when I held the hand at the end of the pipe. I think I am one of the lucky ones using LPG. Oh, and I still have the B12. Hoping to never depart with it :-) Now for my second car, which is an EFI, I might consider this EGI with a doughnut tank. Its seems to be fully automated. Must get a hold of some recent customers and get their comments.

Any update on this tilvin ?

From Google. Cheng Shin Rubber Cheng-Shin Rubber Ind. Co.,Ltd. is the ninth largest tire company in the world. Established in 1967, at the city of Yuanlin, Taiwan.

Nice wheels & tyres Hoonigan ! Kapruka no longer brings down tyres. I missed my chance.

Seems the alignment joint knows their stuff. Where is this place located Komi ?

Just search ebay.com for "hyundai tucson ecu" and you will find many from 1st gen to 2nd gen Tucsons. The 2005 Sportage shares the same engines as the 2005 Tucson. Best if you could find the part number on yours and check with the seller. Its not a big part so you could get it shipped to Sri Lanka without much hassle.

I had a similar problem. The leak was due to a corroded water jacket (welch plug/freeze plug). For more than a year it had leaked slowly and I couldn't figure it out from where cos the drops were landing on the exhaust pipe and evaporating. Until very recently it started spraying out and I thought my block was cracked. So better if you could check under the car after the engine is all warmed up (be very careful). Cos then the pressure is built and could show external leaks. Also check water pump area, inlet/outlet hoses, water pipe (from pump to block), coolant colour (signs for oil), radiator core and plastic tanks. Good luck !

I really hope it is this plug and not a cracked block ! Checked in the morning and when the engine is cool the leak is much less (no jet spray). I will take it to the mechanic tomorrow and hope for the best. If its the plug at fault, do you think I should replace all plugs ? There are 4 on the inlet side and 3 on the exhaust side.

Been checking the net. Seems to be from something called the "freeze plugs". It is leaking from that round section on the block. There seems to be no packing there.

What's going on. Please see pic. I have taken it from underneath the exhaust. You can see a fine green jet spray from the block (encircled in red). It is leaking even without the engine being started.

Aluminium tank option is out. Thank you for your feedback. Thanks to everyone else too. I will check the AM yard or just get it done with at RH.

I found out that I can get a new aftermarket radiator via Kapruka Global Shop for around LKR 14,000. Its sea freight so have to wait for around 8 weeks to arrive from USA. Maybe this is a better option ? Im a bit worried the core might get damaged during shipment.

Where can I get recon (2nd hand) Hyundai stuff from in Panchi ?

How long has it been (the repair) ?

I was actually thinking about that original look side as well.

My tanks are on the sides. The tank that needs replacement has only the hose inlet and mounting points. I think they fabricate it and gives a 12 month warranty. The guy said its easier to repair any future leaks with aluminium tanks soldered to the core. Just want to check if any forum members have done this before.

My plastic tank needs to be replaced on a Hyundai. I called Roh. Motors and they said they can solder an aluminium tank to the core. Quoted me 7,000. If I replace with Chinese plastic tank from Rad. House it will cost around 9,000. Anyone done the aluminium tank option ? Not sure which option to go for Thanks in advance for any comments.

Hi, Do you guys know of a place to buy fittings. I need to connect an in-line pressure test gauge between the fuel pump line and hose connector. I need a fitting that will connect to the hose connector (blue/black). Thanks & regards.

No doubt the video's look great. I think its durability you will need to check in the long run. Looking around for a durable dash cam myself.

I got to check my electrical system. Maybe its the key to solve my knocking issue .

I used BG44K once. Then ran on the Southern Expressway. After a week or so when I started my engine in the morning, my low oil pressure indicator lit up. It did not go away and the sound of the engine was different. Took it to my mechanic and he said he cleaned some plugged oil valve. I suspect all the combustion chamber gunk had to go somewhere. I did this treatment because of an engine knock or similar sound (only after engine warms up and on low speed acceleration) on a Hyundai. I changed the timing belt (was due), new fuel filter, cleaned TB, flushed cooling system and put 1-step higher colder plugs. I use Euro 3 and I still have the sound. Now I am thinking it must be the valve lash that needs adjustment. I also must check fuel pressure. Please update this thread once you get yours fixed. Good luck.

Where about is this in Pepiliyana ?

Nice cam. Does it have an inbuilt battery or you need to have it connected to the power all the time ?