Ripper

As harshan said, first check your brake liners...if they are good...check the self adjsuter mechanism... if all those checks out...chances are the cable has reached it's time. since these are large cables, it tend to flare out and still work... the tension will be less, adjustment would go for a toss but it will still work Happened to me once. Took the truck to a cabling place and sorted it out within a couple of hours.

fuel pressure story is utter BS. If you go by that logic, even the manufacturers didn't really know about their own bikes as it's only meant to work properly on full tank of gas i mean, c'mon.... traditional carb driven bikes have a float system that controls fuel so after that reservoir fills only, the jet can inject fuel into the air mix. fuel pressure from the tank has no bearing on how this works....it's kinda like how a capacitor works... I too own an electric legged XR...i can fire her up with one press of a button with fuel filled up only to the petcock...meaning the tank is completely bone dry and only the lines have fuel. How on earth can "low fuel pressure" damage carbs??? Care to elaborate? Maybe your friends bike needed a tank cleanup or the petcock fuel filter was blocked or something. Maybe that caused fuel to flow slowly into the carb making it perform poorly and starting issues etc. As for the bandit...dont have first hand experience to comment. But i doubt it's bad as people are claiming here. If i'm not wrong, member ChootiPutha owned one. will drop a note to him to check this thread out...

Our resident pug expert and DIY extraordinaire celebrates his birthday today! Have an awesome day machang!!! We should have another meet up soon!

springs plus the valve inside the shock that controls rebounding. for example....my XR's rear shock gave up... the spring tension is fine but the valve is realesing oil pressure a little too soon in to the compression stage making the whole thing go down easily and not come back fast enough. it's even nitrogen charged with an external cannister but without a revalving job, that shock is good as junk. say in states/aus, you can get a revalving done to adjust the rebounding rate etc etc.... i don't think we can do that sorta stuff in SL....not just yet some good stuff off the web on shocks http://blogs.howstuffworks.com/2009/08/26/how-shock-absorbers-work-2/ I was forced to read up excessively on shocks after my XR shock faling on me on around the island trip the chap riding behind my XR noticed that my rear wheel spent more time in air than on ground making it a bitch to control on bad roads. It was so bad i had to force the bike down to the ground making my wrists to get screwed. It took over 3 months for the pain in the wrists to finally go away.

maybe, but the reasons to diss sikkens was through retarded logic!

maybe it's just me but can't see no pics mate. anyways...grea to here you guys are safe. especially considering the the other vehicle involved in the collision.

there is a service station in alakanda road....about 100metres in from alakanda junc in negombo road. used to take my car and the truck there. Don's Service Center is the name. Stopped going there only after i started doing the oil changes etc at home if you wanna go there on a weekend gotta go early or else the place gets packed up. The owner is a chap called Roger,

1+ Sikkens is a bloody good paint brand. present CRC former forumula world in seeduwa used sikkens on all premium cars and 2k on other cars. I've met the chief technical chap there and they hav flying reviews about the paint. It's pricey as trinity said but a damn good paint. Considering that you dont paint your car often and spend a lot of time and money on a paint job...it's best to go with a good brand!

manual? auto?...city driving traffic with ac on etc? a family sedan that does 8-10 is your average figures! realistic figures! if a car does 5-6...then that is "drinking"

shocks are "stiff" and not "soft" and that's why you feel all the bumps and stuff. softer suspension will react to even the slightest bump and absorb it so that energy is not tranferred beyond the shocks. downside is that you get body roll. And if it's ultra soft, they can bottom out too if the car is loaded or hit a deep pothole or something loading the shock beyond it's range... KYB shocks are notorious for being stiffer than factory shocks. I dont think you can "fix" that...at least not in SL afaik we dont have suspension specialist to revalve and ajust the rebound etc etc on shocks. at least not yet and not to my knowledge. Double check the tyre pressure you're running...if it's really uncomfortable, try going down a few psi's and see if that helps. Of course tyre wear would be higher and fuel consumption too will be slightly high if you do that.

quite possibly the newer shocks are stiffer than the old ones you had on. certain shock brands are notorious for being stiffer than certain factory shocks. And Anonymous is correct. Softer shocks offer poor handling but better ride comfort. stiffer shocks, better handling and bad ride quality.

had an ae100 sprinter se limited. quite a comfy car for the price bracket. was very good on fuel (10+ colombo, 12~15 out). it was a manual box and driven with a heavy foot too...

some cheaper tyre brands are notorious for not sealing well with rims. Have see first hand a ceat branded tyre for a mini van not sealing and leaking. The tyre shop chap said it's unfortunately pretty common for the said brand. especially their smaller tyres. The truck, bus tyres seems to be ok.

in a nutshell....would you gamble with your life, that of your passengers and also other road users to save a few thousand bucks? I think not!!! I'd rather keep the vehicle at home and collect some money with the fuel costs to get a new tire

damn it! cant find the newbie rape whistle!

I too bought a set off ebay well over an year ago to hook up to the truck easy DIY if you're ok with electrical bits. Need to tap into the reverse light circuit, and power the sensor unit via a relay. I didn;t want to directly run the unit off the reverse light wiring so hooked a relay in there for safety. Mu unit of course, one of the sensors failed after roughly and year an half of use... so bought a another set to scavenge parts out of.

if you need a good paint job...the biggest time/cost/effort goes into prepping the car. actual painting cost isn't big thing. those chaps who offer cheap "full paint" jobs cut corners mostly in the prep stage... and that's why you get bubbles and what not after a while. Like many have said, it's impossible to do a proper full paint job with 40k. a good 3 years back, i did full respray for 80k. same color with some body work. Mind you this is at a smaller joint and my dad knew the owner of the place too.

my mechanic can sort out both your issues. but the chap is in seeduwa. take my ford there and he has sorted everything out for me. leak in clutch fluid, most probably is bas seals in either the master pump or the slave... or in some cases...both pretty easy repair... heating issues with ac...there might be a chance where the AC compressor not cutting off after reaching cooler temps. if the compressor runs constatnly there's excessive load on the motor making it overheat. Most of the time, this too isn't a hard nut to crack. Im sure other forum members will chime in with details for mechanics around your area....

on the check engine light issues...when you conncted the pins in the diagnostic port and got he bulb blinks...did you count em properly and made sure it's a normal code? Or did you get that issues sorte after the PCV valve replacement. Great thing with OBD1 is that you can pull codes out without code readers. downside is that the monitoring parametres are far less than an OBD2 system As for the oil loss... there can be a few reasons... number 1 being an oil loss via a leak somwhere but this is quite noticeable due to tell tale oil parks on your garage. Another problem is oil getting passed through the valve seals. If this is the case, you will see blue smoke upon starting but it will fade away after running the motor a bit as the leaked oil gets burnt out. If you keep the car parked for extended period of time, the amount blue smoke will be quite high. THe third issue can be oil seeping passed the pistong rings due to a worn ringset and or worn bore. This way you will see blue smoke right throughout the time the engine is running and the smoke will increase as engine revs increase. Most of the time, spark plugs too will be blacj, oily and sooty. Depending on the level of wear, you might be able to get away with a ringset replacement but in most cases with older cars, you'd have to go for a new bore job and drop larger pistons etc... aka engine overhaul. I would stay away from the agents cos they really aren't good as they should be.

well, we are all assuming that OP in fact tried this on the said vehicle!

cityguide is a gps system so unless you want a navigation unit, no need to spend the bucks. as for cameras and sensors...run a search. discussed in detail before!

Shaa! very nice MD Time to drop by that way with a six pack and some jumbo jollies

it's pretty obvious the oragnizers were didn't do enough for track safety and also were not ready to handle a serious accident of this nature. When a person is injured, the officials should take over the situation fast and ensure the injured person has the best possible chance of surviving the accident. I blame the organizers for allowing that j***a$$ to throw around a seriously injured man like a ragdoll!!!

the 4x4 events organized by another club tend to ensure people get disqualified if they start to winch without using proper anchoring/equipment and dampening material on the tow cable. i've seen this happening first hand in watersedge.