terrabytetango

My van had the hissing sound, but it too was an 18 year old vehicle at the time of selling. It also had many many other sounds as well, but the brakes worked fine, for a van. My car makes no sound I can hear from the inside when pressing the brake pedal, other than the clunk sound made by the pedal itself.

Since you mentioned you replaced the washers in the master cylinder, was there a leak in it as well? That in conjunction with the hissing sound leads me to believe your brake booster should be inspected as well, since you don't specifically mention it being checked out. As for braking power with A/C, my car exhibits something similar but it's normal; the pedal goes down by about an inch or two whenever the compressor cuts out, which makes the car jerk forward if I've already stepped on the brakes about 70-80%.

Hyundai have way too many models that look the same.

Bumps on sidewalls means the inner lining has failed and weakened. You need to replace them ASAP. I ended up changing all _four_ tires right after I bought the car because I ran over a manhole cover with the two left wheels which caused sidewall damage, and since the front and rears were of two different brands and worn beyond 40%, I had no choice. A friend had a similar bump on the sidewall in his Viva, and he ignored my advice in replacing the tire. The next time I met him, he told me he had a blowout and the the weakened sidewall was the issue. Inspect your tires daily; 2 minutes spent feeling your tires (on _both_ sides) vs an accident caused by a blowout. It's a no brainer.

I pumped it on and off from the Pelawatta joint when I was too lazy to visit Jubilee Post. Made no difference for me, but I do remember the idling being smoother.

My 94 (Lotto)Townace when I sold it had 330,000kms+ on the clock. A friend's 98 Montero (base model with the V46 body) was closing on 480,000 when he sold it in 2010.

There are a handful of emulator distros currently available for the RPi, I personally prefer Chameleon since it emphasizes more on old computers than consoles.

The issue at hand was never about speculating how much fuel is actually pumped into the tank, just what is read out on the display. So the conclusion is that the Nugegoda joint actually rounds things up slightly giving us an advantage. The question was originally posted with the mindset that prices were at 159, not 162, which was due to my carelessness being unaware of a change which took place 6 days ago. Looks like it's time to tear myself away from Crysis 3.

So it seems there was a 3 buck price increase on Saturday?? I wasn't aware of this because I was out of town during the long weekend :/ And also I did pump a full tank before my trip, which was at the regular rate. However that still doesn't explain the differences does it? I mean it's the principle of the thing that irks me, like the bus conductor withholding 50 cents in change, not the actual loss.

That would be the correct assumption, but till last week the volume for RS1000 worth of petrol had been 'fixed' at 6.211 litres, What worries me is the fluctuation itself and how it varied from shed to shed. It's unpleasant to think shed operators are actually crass enough to operate with such impunity without fear of blowback.

I've got a 256MB model B which I've been using since last June. It's run off a small a solar panel hooked up directly via a small ebay solar power controller to a 12V battery. It runs a minimalist version of Raspbian without any GUI, I use it for console work only, mainly as a torrent downloader and IRC eggdrop. I've got the new model B and model A on the way as well. The B will be used as a stand alone classic console and PC game emulator, not sure what I'm going to do with the other one yet.

Okay, so my normal routine is to pump a thousand bucks worth of fuel every 2 days. Since the December '12 price hike, the ratio has been 6.211L/1000 bucks, which actually works down to less than the 6.28 odd one gets when doing the math, but yeah, Sri Lankan Economics®. However, since this week, I've noticed capacities fluctuating at places I pump at regularly i.e. Nugegoda Bo tree and Rajagiriya Pizza Hut. On Tueday, the tally was 6.183 at Nugegoda, and today, the Rajagiriya joint pumped only 6.172 litres, indicated by the display. I didn't fuss about it, but I'm wondering if anyone else has noticed a decline in the pumped volumes of fuel, or if I've just been especially unlucky to win the unjackpot this week.

The irony is that even though the Nissan Patrol hasn't seen the shores of North America since the 60's, they were the first to get Nissan's (Infiniti) super sized SUV, the Q56, which incidentally is the same as the new Patrol Y62. It's up there with the LC200, and IMO looks so much better. Enough to contend with the new Range Rover even I would say.

I have no idea. I have yet to do a full service on my car, I'm waiting till I hit 75K , which coincides with the service interval after next. You needn't make it an immediate concern unless you're hearing weird noises and/or experiencing power loss issues. However I do suggest you carry out a full service, including inspection of drive line and suspension, when you hit 100,000 kms.

1NZ-FE, can't beat it. My Vios has the same engine, and performance isn't bad considering the car weighs only 1030kg. I suspect the Thai engineers realized this too, since they managed to cut costs nearly everywhere, yet they decided on fitting rear disc brakes.

Your car has a timing chain, not belts. The only reason to change it would be if it fails the inspection for stretching or damaged links.

I considered this Davy, but the issues is there is no place on the outer perimeter of the door frame to attach anything to, the door fits quite snugly into the door jamb. The door switch in my car is on the door jamb itself, in the vicinity of the latch hook, so I would have to route the wiring through the conduit for mirrors locks and windows. Mounting on the door card was also considered, but apart from the wire routing issues, all feasible solutions I've come with so far are rather permanent, and I'd really prefer to retrofit instead of altering anything.

The problem with the lights under the mirror is that when you open the door they become completely useless, more so for egress. I've been meaning to have some kind of light installed under the rocker panel to illuminate the sides of the car on which door is open. I can't even begin to count the number of times I've stepped in puddles/garbage/various kinds of animal feces etc when parking in unfamiliar places at night. My idea was to buy a spool of LED lights and attach them to the side skirts of the body kit, angle at 45 degrees down on the horizontal, split into sections for each door, and hook up each section between the door switch and dome light. Thus, only the bit under the opened door will light up.

Your Axio is a _Corolla_. And did you try drying out the camera? Also nearly every cam on ebay will work with your car, what you need to do is find one with a similar mounting hole pattern, and the color system i.e. NTSC or PAL. The two wire model uses the second wire to power the IR emitters, to enhance the camera's night vision. AFAIK this function is handled by the camera itself without needing any further interface to the head unit.

The new RR is all aluminium, that's what excites me the most. It's a good 400kg lighter than the outgoing model, which is massive in terms of weight saving.