tiv
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Everything posted by tiv
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Thanks for the elaborate reply, there's something to learn everyday
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Guys, please do clear this doubt of mine, i'm sure it will help OP as well. Given the fact that the above car is hardly used, definitely as mentioned certain components undergo ageing and perish untimely but doesn't that outweigh the good condition the car is in? given that its a solid german car. As in couldn't a prospective buyer purchase the above vehicle and restore these components within a short period and wouldn't that put him at a bigger advantage than purchasing a used car likely to have done above 200,000km by now given its era which may have niggles of its own. In terms of Lankan roads, wear and tear, cheap maintenance, changing hands etc. Yes I do understand swapping certain components would be expensive but still? Thanks in advance
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What I mean't was, if you can push your monthly budget a bit more, (or omit insurance from the monthly allocation and consider it a yearly add-on/ bottom line increase monthly budget a tad bit) things will be financially feasible, which you already have, So I'm sure with your 'adjusted' budget you can own the above vehicle given that its particulars are true as well. It seems like you like this car, go for it mate and also try to negotiate the price so that you have some cash for some starter work like premium tyres, new battery probably etc if needed of course. btw i'm no expert on BMWs, but I do know a thing or two about the e46.
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Yes they are famed for their 5000K colour, yes the description says their is no added power output, but I surely don't assume them to be as hideous as chinese blue coated bulbs which throw out lumens less than standard. I'll update once they arrive.
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As per your description, the car seems to be in great nick. (Mileage bit unrealistic; but still) As long as you maintain the car with the right people / agents reliability won't be an issue. I have a friend who used to do (120Kmx4) per day in a 320d e46. A price of 2.6 would be ideal AS for your yearly allocation, this might not suffice, yet again based on the condition of the car and components prone to fail (especially the turbo and fuel pump). If you arrange insurance with a bit more funds, I'm sure you'll be able to pull it off. End of the day what matters is do you really want the car, if you do, you'll be willing to push that extra 10-20K a month. Goodluck, and pics please when you do buy her.
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Yes, I already have sets of Osram Nightbreaker Unlimited and Plus, Just wanted to compare.
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Haha yes, but in terms of placement of the headlamps, one on top of the other, quite reminiscent of the old models to me
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When I Leave The Hand From Steering Wheel, Vehicle Move To Left
tiv replied to andunslg's question in Mechanical problems
Yes, definitely, sometimes I resort to travelling all the way to Negombo where there is a joint running since the 70s as per my uncle, where they do alignments 100% via manual measurements and experience but with newer gear from Italy. So far the best, for all our vehicles except my Hilux which pulls to the left on throttle, which seems to be an inherent factory problem as per popular literature. -
Is it just me or has Toyota gone into a bit of retro styling by providing the quad lamp setup as in old LHs of the 80s and 90s? On the same topic, just ordered a set of Philips Diamond Vision HB4 9006 for my fogs, lets see how they compare when they turn up in a few weeks
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As Don said your best bet is to take it to a radiator joint, take the top part apart and remove the bits or whatever that is there. While you are at it, you can flush the radiator / cooling system and change the coolant as well, these bits might come out during manual flushing if you can channel running water from the outlet and let it pour via the cap or inlet.
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When I Leave The Hand From Steering Wheel, Vehicle Move To Left
tiv replied to andunslg's question in Mechanical problems
I too had a similar issue on a brand new Maxxis 31 tyre, needed some 30gs to balance, the retailer decided to swap the tyre then and there -
Most of these paints are very thin, even with a few coats the level of the scratch is likely to be lower than the surrounding paint, thereby the touch-up rarely peels off, instead what happens is the taller sides of the original paint comes of with time, expanding the scratch and leaving the touch-up 'island' in the middle, anyways these are negligible specs that occur with time, a small refinish from the pen would do. +1
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Our car sales chaps and associated body shops already know this, been using these since the mid 2000s, the en-bulk colour they use is Toyota 056 white, first I thought it was correction fluid / tipex. They even apply a clear coat on top. I've tried Toyota 8P4. 042, 1E9 and 3E5, with upto 4-5 coats you can salvage like a 1cm wide scratch near original state, various brands depending on the colour code though
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Regarding HIDs, If installed properly with a projector which I elaborated before, would give a result similar or close to OEM, The HID kit I can recommend is Xentec, imported from US (not eBay), or a retrofit from OEM Toyota parts, so I'd say its not a disaster to venture, instead its a reasonable option to the one who is adventurous. Also in terms of visibility, a branded bulb upgrade will definitely have results, but they are not comparable to HIDs, if thats what you are looking for. I myself am considering investing on a set of these new CREE led bulbs, just for venturing newer waters; which has already thrown HIDs off the map. As for those LKR5000-7500 HID retrofit kits, those are for the V*P light/ Posh "Threewheel" ignorant types, who don't know where the Dim switch is, they fit into the existing globes and do a damn good job of blinding everyone around and flickering at night and eventually dying off when you need it the most. (Of course I know the forum members have duly noted the risk and removed it, due to our common interest in automobiles) http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-PHILIPS-DIAMOND-VISION-H7-5000K-55w-Registered-mail-/321738794079?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_186&hash=item4ae920645f I was referring to this batch, These and nightbreakers, i've ordered plenty off eBay, all of them still work and much better than Koito and Stanley bulbs you get on the market.
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The process includes taking apart the entire headlights, and installing a projector in front of the bulb slot, and then fitting a decent HID kit for the lights. Looking at around 35,000/- or a bit more, http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/10250-hid-xenon-lights/page-9?hl=%20projector%20%20bara Check the above post as well. You need to find out the bulb and holder type, ex: Hb4, H7 etc Then replace the same, if it still doesn't light up, look into the wiring harness, holder etc Another alternative for HIDs and all bulb needs are premium bulbs like Osram Nightbreakers and Philips Diamond Vision, (ebay quite resourceful for these)
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When I Leave The Hand From Steering Wheel, Vehicle Move To Left
tiv replied to andunslg's question in Mechanical problems
Have the steering ball joints checked on the front end, and the steering rack mounts; common issue in vehicles nowadays -
Congrats on the purchase mate , regarding modifications, not to worry, after a few months of use you'll be done with the "I ll keep her original" phase and start plotting modifications or improvements I should say rather, when that time hits keep the above ideas as a guide. Also I'd like to add, why not do a projector headlight conversion / retrofit (definitely with projectors please!) with HIDs or newer CREE led globes while you are on the headlight restoration. Good luck!
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Horn Not Work After Some Time Of Engine Start
tiv replied to invisibleuser's question in Mechanical problems
http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16548-diy-horn-instalationreplacing/ For a bit of DIY clarity -
First time I heard this on a long trip, I thought I've busted my stock silent BOV, or exhaust or the main belt, later I realized it was the damn bus flooring it behind me, and stopping all over So this is technically a mod? I thought it was some stock valve on the newer ones.
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If you have a massive craving and a considerable budget, I'd recommend getting a Webasto unit down, will atleast maintain its value rather than mismatching a unit from another make etc. http://www.webasto.com/us/markets-products/car/aftermarket-sunroofs/ Next best thing is a roof swap, but if not done properly can lead to strength and flex issues, and the opening is quite large in the OEM sunroof / rag top. Corrosion is a common woe in most sunroof equipped vehicles, especially in the coastal areas.
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The best recommended / discussed position for the shock sensor is usually the steering column, to the metal casing in which the steering shaft swivels, free of wires, most suitably under the gauge cluster, if accessible or under the steering column cover, top piece or bottom piece. This place is the safest as it will trigger incase the wheel is rotated, and is likely to save the car from being stolen, but not your belongings, various ancillaries and accessories I have also tried mounting to the inner fender, where the front fender attaches to, so that it can catch vibrations along the entire subframe, also tried the front firewall, and a certain front brace/ strut running right across the dashboard (may not be applicable for all cars). The issue with these places is it tends to trigger the alarm quite often. Please note these are from DIY experience, as I am not a professional installer of these units.
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Yes, read the linked post, it was discussed a bit there, It terms of cooling capability the a/c compressor cooled system(built-in coolbox) is ahead. I was told however if a if a coolbox / refrigerator was fitted from the factory, the compressor is specially equipped to handle a coolbox, therefore if you retrofit a coolbox to a particular vehicle, you need to upgrade it to the correct capable compressor, otherwise the existing compressor with fail in a short period due to excessive load. As for the thermoelectric cooler, I have used a Toyota branded unit, an OEM upgrade for the Hilux / Fortuner from Thailand, this too couldn't get below 10-15c However it can hold a canned drink etc cool enough, forget ice though. Plugs in to the 12v port.
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http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15992-electric-cool-boxes/?hl=refrigerator#entry260160 If its thermoelectric/ Peltier, in a practical setting in our country, I'd doubt you'll get below 15c Unless you have a dual battery setup, a 3A draw is likely to drain your battery overnight, it will be harmless for 1-2hours with the engine off, separate fused power via a switch is better than acc, or ignition switch as there is a draw further from the cars electrics, via provided the car starts easy.
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Only thing I know is cops tend to fuss light above 8000K, judged by their visual capability of course.
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AFAIK, other than physically inspecting the vehicle for various signs that suggest its overall age, and comparing with whatever service/ related history, there is no consistent way, as these crooks get to the point where they replace the entire gauge cluster with lower mileage units and so on. Some say loose dashboard trim and fascia in a relatively new vehicle (<10000km) is a sign, but nevertheless not conclusive.
