Davy

I agree with Ruslan. The first thing to get checked is whether your AC has sufficient gas for it to work properly. If the system pressure is okay, then it could be due to a number of things such as a faulty thermostat relay, connection issue or the compressor itself being faulty.

Does look like that part of the harness was covered only using tape because the harness separates into two directions after coming out of the grommet. Insulation must have fallen off like tiv said. Get some black insulation tape and wrap it up.

I believe it's the face of the car which includes most of the components attached to the radiator support. Typically the bumper, headlights, grille etc. OP, did you try Delkanda? Euron!ppon and US @uto p@rts?

Coolant replacement interval varies depending on the type and brand of coolant used. Generally, you can run for over 30,000kms (or about 2 years, whichever comes first)on a batch of coolant. 1cm of coolant loss is nothing to worry about. Just top up your coolant and monitor the level to see if it keeps dropping. If it does, there's probably a leak.

If the bearings or brushes are worn out, cleaning will only provide a temporary solution. Some brushes are soldered on to the wire, so you need a high powered soldering iron to install new brushes. You might need puller to get the bearing off as well. Not to discourage you from attempting a DIY, but I think it's better if you take the motor to a good electrician and get it checked out and serviced. If you want to save a few bucks, you can remove the motor yourself and re-install it after the repair. You don't need grease for the motor according to my knowledge.

To add to what MV-5 has stated, LEDs are far more reliable (longer lifetime) than ordinary tungsten bulbs. They emit less heat as well.

Just one LED will not be enough to light up a turn indicator. So you will have to install a set of bulbs as a grid (following a serial and parallel formation). So theoretically, you can have the grid draw the same amount of current similar to a regular bulb. In fact, there are SMD modules that plug straight into the bulb socket without the need for modification of anything. But I believe some do have a resistor, depending on the number of SMDs sitting on the board. EDIT: This is what I'm talking about. Pretty sure you will be able to find one compatible with your car's bulb holder type.

First off... calm down! From the photo, it looks like the fresh air intake duct is what the rat has come in through as Watchman said. If the AC was working on "recirculate" all this time, the rat couldn't have come inside the car, because the vent is closed off. So nothing to worry about. Just clean up the mess it has made and get rid of the rats. If by any chance the AC was working on "fresh", then you might have a bigger problem. Even so, there is no need to take off the dashboard. Since most vents have a mesh-like end, rats cannot get into the cabin. But, the lines that go to the floor to blow air at feet may not have a grill. So if your AC was set to blow air along this path, the rat may have traveled along it and ended up in the cabin. Slim chance though. Park the car in different places at night (if you have space). Rats usually take the same path every time. A change might confuse the fellow and prevent it from entering the car. If that's not possible, you'll have to get rid of the rat somehow. In my case, despite getting rid of so many rats, some fellow always managed to come through my fresh air vent and nest in there. I eventually sealed off the fresh air intake so that absolutely nothing can get in.

Fuel Efficiency has already been shared here. To add a bit more to my post in that thread, I started using 91 octane after it was available in the country, and the figures remained the same. You're looking at a lowest of 10km/l in the city and 14km/l outstation. If the figures are lower than this, the car probably needs to be checked up. The CS3 does come with a 1.6L EFI engine (model 4G18). Please search the forum, you will find so much information about the entire CS series. Good luck with your buy.

Already shared. Please search before opening new threads. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/4674-microcars-factory/?p=273344

I think you mean brake PADS.

While the monochromatic (red) multi info display is the standard option for most of the Lancer EXs we find in Sri Lanka (mainly GLX and GLS), there are models which have the colour display as standard - probably in Sri Lanka too. The Lancer EX GT (2.0L MIVEC Turbo) has this as standard after 2012 or so if I remember correctly. AND we have a couple of them in the country although I'm not sure about the YOM of them.

What happens usually when you pump a lower grade octane fuel is that the engine's knock sensor retards the engine's timing to prevent knocking or pinging. So it is unlikely that you'll feel severe knocking even though you have used fuel of a lower octane rating. Retarded timing for prolonged periods can cause issues. A few years ago when I was reading up on this issue on Cedia's, I read that, as a result of retarded timing (due to the use of lower octane fuels), carbon deposits tend to form up on the intake valves, causing them to not close properly (See photo below). Once again, what I read attributed the build up of this carbon deposits to the use of lower grade octane fuels. As a result of this carbon build up, early GDI engines (pioneered by manufacturers such as Mitsubishi) were frowned upon. So while other factors such as inferior fuel quality also played a role in destroying these engines, the use of lower octane fuel was also a main contributor.

WoW. I just read this thread. To think that I have recommended this place many times on the forum! If I really knew that the business is run by a set of low lives who threaten customers, I wouldn't have done so.

People were initially skeptical about GDI engines, thinking that they give trouble. That's probably the main reason as to why Mitsubishis with GDI engines (Lancer, Galant, Pajero IO and Monetro) were not that successful. Honestly, I also turned away from GDI Lancers at the time of buying mine. But the truth is, they are reliable engines if maintained properly. If I remember correctly, these GDI engines were meant to run on 98 octane petrol. Due to the unavailability of 98 in the country, people were forced to use 95 octane (some may have used 90 - not knowing the implications) which probably resulted in most of these engines giving trouble. So there's nothing actually wrong with GDI engines. They lost their reputation due to the wrong reasons IMO.

Does this count?

Crosswind is correct with his reply above. Also, the CS2 is not the JDM model. Most of the pre-facelift CS2s in the country are JDM, but there are a few export model examples as well. The most commonly seen JDM CS2 is the Lancer Cedia (Cedia meaning CEntury DIAmond - "Century" because it was the model done on the company's 100th anniversary. "Diamond" because that's what the Mitsubishi logo is composed of). Most of the Cedias came with a 1.5L GDI engine whereas the export model CS2 came with a 1.5 EFI engine (both 4G15). The CS1, 2 and 3 are not the only CS Lancers that were in the series. The CS ranges from CS1 (4G13 - 1.3L) to CS9 (4G63T - 2.0L Mivec Turbo). The only CS I've seen locally apart from the common 1, 2 and 3 is the CS5. It badged "Touring" and has a 1.8L engine (4G93) - one was on sale on the classifieds a couple of years back.

That's pretty good. I've never had experience with Car Care because I go to the closest wheel alignment place whenever I need to get a job done. I've not had major alignment problems yet, but I sure will keep Car Care also in mind. It's always good to go to a place that knows everything about what they're doing and explain it properly. Not many places really do that. About your caster angle, I really don't think it would affect your driving experience. The only thing I can think of happening is the tyre coming into contact with the wheel well while taking a sharp bend (at full lock) on a very bumpy road. Highly unlikely scenario though for a 5cm offset. Maybe OP can take the car to Care Care and have them check the alignment.

You're right The Don. This is exactly what I meant in my earlier post when I said "misaligned rear wheels". Honda's multi-link rear suspension is composed of a few tiny links that probably end up getting a good beating on our local roads. As a result, the entire rear suspension would be extending a lot of tension on the wheels which in turn gets released as the wheel goes over a bump (or cat's eye). Sadly, most wheel alignment places only have the facility to adjust the front suspension components. I've heard about this place in Walana. Do they check misalignment all round?

Did you mean to say 29 front and 30 rear? If that is the case, then you might be running with over inflated tyres at the back. Usually the front tyre pressure is higher than of the rear tyres for front-engine cars. What does your B-pillar tyre inflation pressure chart say? If tyre pressure is good and if shocks and bushes are okay, then it could be due to misaligned rear wheels.

Resale value is not as terrible as people say it is. After 6 years of owning a Lancer, I can still sell it for a little over the price I bought it for... confidently. So I wouldn't call it poor resale value. Also, I personally don't believe in making a profit out of owning a car. There are so many other factors to consider when buying a vehicle besides resale value. Finally, being so fixated on resale value will bias you towards buying a car that will please the market (next owner), but not you.

Bumping this old thread to share this video: Didn't know that they actually do a lot of local work on cars before they're put on the road. Wish the documentary was more technical and in more detail.

This is totally wrong. You can buy a decent pre-facelift (say 2001/2002) CS1 for around 1.6M. It is the CS3 that could go up to about 1.8M max. Examples (CS1): http://autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=175393 Examples (CS3): http://autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=174150 http://autolanka.com/ad.asp?ID=174068 I don't know where you have been looking, but you've been looking at the wrong cars.

Yes, you're right. I probably had my wires crossed while I was thinking about it earlier. Since you need the delay after the door closes, we can safely assume that the circuit is open.

We heard you the first time. EDIT: And the second time. EDIT: And the third and fourth times. Seriously, stop opening new threads for each car that comes into your mind OP.