Davy

The drive belt is loose. You need to tighten it properly so that it doesn't slip. The "kiri kiri" sound is due to slippage. Generally, a 0.5 inch free movement of the belt is the normal specification (at the mid point between the two pulleys that are furthest apart). This again needs to be verified with manufacturer specifications.

Welcome to the forum! The forum already has tons of information about both the cars you are interested in. Please follow the instructions in this thread and search first. Respond to any of those threads with questions you have. Thanks!

http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16722-ideas-about-lancer-box/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/14677-details-lancer-box/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/6522-lancer-box-vs-nissan-b11/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/4786-lancer-box/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/11482-lancer-box-carburetter/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/7733-lancer-box/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/7837-lancer-box-1979-1982/ Next time, try searching according to the guidelines given in the this thread.

Naturally, the prices of parts have gone up. Thus the higher price for the weather stripping now. I have sent you a PM. You can contact me, no worries. If they are only dirty, you can get them steam cleaned or something from a place that does interior cleaning. There are so many fabric cleaning foams and stuff at supermarkets that you can try out as well. The one that worked for me is a product called ABRO foam cleaner. Got it from Arpico. It's the same product I used to clean my carpet as described here.

I bought mine when it had run 72,000 km and used it up until the clock displayed 138,000km or so. I am in touch with the current owner of the car and the car has not yet undergone any major engine repairs. In fact, during the 7 years of use, the car never gave me serious trouble. I am not aware of any other CS Lancers giving major engine trouble at around this mileage. If you can, ask these "some people" what exactly were the issues that they know of. Don't believe everything based on hearsay.

First of all, I think this thread is redundant. You could have found answers to your questions if you did a simple search. Hope a moderator will merge it with this one which OP himself has opened when he got the car. The answer to all your questions is Mahinda. Call him on 0714762223 and tell him exactly what you need. Just FYI, the window weather stripping were about Rs. 10,000 (front) and 8000 (rear) a piece at UniMo back in 2012 or so. Mahinda didn't want to throw away just the weather stripping from his recon doors, because the doors themselves will then lose their value. In my case one of them had a small dent and I decided to live with it.

Whoa! It's aliiiiive!!

What sort of information are you looking for? Information about the permit is between UniMo and the first owner and it doesn't really matter after the car exchanges hands.

Missed this thread?http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16918-happy-birthday-hoonigan/

Let's just say he was a head at Colombo University. The car had the IESL sticker on the rear windscreen, and it was still there when I saw the ad recently. Pretty sure we're talking about the same car. As for the permit info., you will not find anything about the permit on the registration book.

Worked there from 2007 up until 2012. I believe the green Primera is owned by a friend of mine who joined the company with me. Small world.

CS1, so front wheel drive.

That car belonged to a friend of mine (the first owner). His dad got it under a permit and it was rarely used because my friend's office was within walking distance from his home. I have driven that car on many many occasions. We were all sad when he had to sell the car because he had to travel overseas for a few years. I think the mileage was just over 40,000km when they sold it in 2013 or so.I saw the advertisement recently and recognised the number. Shared the link with my friend also and he was so glad that the car was still in good condition. Use it well. It was a much loved car.

Black car? HW Number?

Yes they do, and you don't have to look further to find an example. The Lancer Cedia (JDM CS2) came with a 4G15 GDI engine. As for the stars and planets - agree that they have been good to Mitsubishi, but they came up with the names long before brands like Zotye and Proton even existed I guess.

A Legacy B4!

Well, I wouldn't call it 70s technology. The entire range of engines have evolved with time. They were initially carburettor engines and now every revision is either an EFI or GDI. Also, the earlier versions did not conform to any of the emission standards of today. As for the names, they were as below (from memory): Orion: 4G1 series Saturn: 4G3 series Sirius: 4G6 series Astron: 4G5 series Neptune: 4G4 series I think the rest of them didn't have names. They were just referred to as 4G9x and so on. Wonder what the exact reason was behind naming engines after stars (and planets).

I have had to pump 90 once and the car knocked heavily when down shifting. Especially on low gears. So I wouldn't recommend using 90 (not like it's available now anyway). In my first post I've made a mistake (corrected now). The 2004 manual said 91 or higher too and NOT 95. I believe the 95 octane requirement was specified for the later CS3s, so you should be fine with 92.

91 octane or higher. That's what the owner's manual says. I believe this was shared on the forum before. Edit: During the time only 90 and 95 was available, I kept using 95 and switched to 92 when it became available. No problems encountered and the engine behaved normally. You might want to check if this applies to the 2003 - 2007 facelift CS3. The below post suggests that the manual for the facelift says that the recommended fuel is 95 octane. I've seen a 2004 facelift manual and that too said 91 octane. Maybe later models require 95. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15687-help-with-my-new-cs3/?p=253444

Before doing anything, I suggest you check if both your battery terminals are properly tightened up. If they are, get the battery and charging system checked up from a good place as Crosswind said. Car bogging down could be due to loss of power from the battery (loose terminal).

Looks like the wiring is wrapped together only using insulation tape. You can minimise future damage to harnesses by wrapping them up with PVC flexible tubing. It's a DIY job actually.

http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/60-how-to-attach-images-to-your-post/ You need not rewire the entire car just because a couple of wires were damaged in the engine bay. However, you should get the wiring checked thoroughly to ensure that there are no damaged or exposed live wires touching the body for example.

Read this a few weeks back when I was looking into the Evo - Final Edition: Source So it's going to be a SUV with an "Evo" badge... if you call that "making a comeback".

Pretty much the same here as well The Don. In my case, the rotors were okay, but the car had not been used for almost 4 years - belongs to my cousin. The rotors had surface rust and only a very subtle resurfacing was done. It was part of putting her back on the road until I can buy a car of my own. Luckily, I have a Sri Lankan friend who owns a workshop here, so labour charges are okay; Obviously not as cheap as it is in Sri Lanka. Looks a bit different to the one that was used on the Holden, but did pretty much the same job. Glad that these are available in Sri Lanka. That is a result of the brake rotor being balanced. Don't worry about it. When rotors are manufactured, sometimes irregularities exist right after the rotor is removed from the cast. Each rotor is put on a balancer and parts of the rotor is shaved off the inner side to balance it.

Did this on the Holden Nova I was using for a couple of months and what's done is the brake calliper is lifted off the rotor (only one nut was removed and the calliper assembly was hung on the strut spring using a cable). The car was on a hoist about 2 feet off the ground. The resurfacing unit was secured to the wheel studs so that it can spin the rotor as it resurfaces it. Then the cutting tool was positioned in the same place that the brake calliper was located - because the rotor is exposed from both sides in that specific place. The cutting bit was correctly positioned after some fine tuning and then at the flip of a button and about 10 minutes, the rotor was looking brand new. Pretty good piece of machinery. There is of course nothing wrong with doing it the traditional way because the rotor actually just slips out of the hub and only the calliper needs to be taken out. Wheel alignment or any other adjustment is not affected. A competent guy at a good machine shop will be able to do an equally good job IMO.