Davy

Seems to be Sri Lanka. Ch@m@r@ Stickers at Kadawatha?

You should be fine since the oil is still in the original cans and been stored away according to their guidelines.Just did a quick search and found that many sources recommend up to 5 years.

I think OP's problem is a bit more severe since the multi information display also displays text in Japanese. The multi info display should be having a "Change language" option I guess.

I think this depends on an array of factors starting from the composition of the oil (what sort of additives have been added. Rust prevention additives etc. can contribute to degrade shelf life faster), to the environment in which the oil is stored. Having said that, If your oil is stored in airtight cans that they come in, and if the cans aren't subjected to direct sunlight or heat (say above room temperature), you should be fine for a couple of years I guess. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Also Kavvz, this is highly unlikely, but have you checked for an expiry or "use by" date on the cans? What brand and type of oil is this?

Looks like we've got hope avoiding problems like this!

Dear Gayanath, Ted didn't provide vital information for our diagnosis here. I hope you agree. It is only natural to assume that this stalling was random. If you read my first response to you, I have said "Engines do not randomly die". Obviously this was not random as Ted disconnected the battery. Next, can you kindly explain why you suggested "adjust idling RPM by scanner" and "cleaning MAF sensor" if stalling was normal? According to your logic, this should go away after the ECU re-learns right? So why intervene with the ECU when it's learning on it's own anyway? To me it sounds like you are contradicting your own opinion. I too have experienced many scenarios where engines kept dying right after the battery was disconnected. And I agree with you that it's because the ECU leaned parameters have been erased due to loss of power. However, this not because of wear and tear, but due to excessive carbon deposits in the throttle body and intake manifold. Cleaning the throttle body, ICV, TPS, MAF should allow for smooth idling even after the battery was disconnected.

The W specification (Winter) is not applicable for tropical countries like Sri Lanka. So it shouldn't be a problem.

Glad you got the issue sorted. And thanks for reporting back.

To add to sathyajith99's quote above, regardless of whether an engine is used or not, oil comes into contact with moisture and condensation, which causes it to lose it's lubricating properties. So it doesn't really matter if the car has been driven or not, oil breaks down over time. Think of it as something that has an expiry date on top of the mileage. We should be having some good discussions about oil already that OP might find useful.

Watchman, can you please update your original post on this thread with the links to the images again? They appear to be broken. Thanks!

Probably due to wiping the windscreen with the same cloth used to wipe the rest of the car. Use a separate clean cloth to wipe glass. As JC said, use some glass cleaner.

Can you please not open multiple threads about the same topic? The forum already has information on service stations. You should be able to find plenty of places if you do a search (here's how).

Hi Guys, I took the car for a 250 km (one way) drive with a bunch of friends and it was the best drive I’ve done so far. Started off from home at 8:30 am and reached our destination at about 1 pm. The interesting thing about the drive is that it was mostly on different types of gravel. Twisty roads through a forest – basically the closest I have ever been to rallying – huge clouds of dust, and of course a lot of sideways action! This is what most of the journey looked like: And the ladies - 2008 Subaru WRX, 2011 Lancer RalliArt and 1989 Toyota Corolla AWD Limited (JDM). The Corolla is a very interesting car. Only a couple in Australia. After driving about a quarter of the journey, this is what our cars looked like: Wish I had a GoPro or something because I was running my dash cam all along and only noticed that it had an error in the middle and hadn't recorded the best part of the drive. There was so much dust that the WRX even got a “Check Engine” light with a P0171 (Too lean). The car was totally drivable, but was lacking power and no boost at all. I initially thought it was the Oxygen sensor that had been knocked out by a rock or something, but after cleaning the MAF, the error went away and the car was normal again. Before the trip, I took the car to Mitsubishi because my warranty was almost at the end and I wanted some issues checked out. The transmission rattle was infrequent, but was there at times. I was a bit concerned about it since it can be really expensive to get the SST repaired. Although the engineer who test drove my car initially said that there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the transmission, he admitted after an inspection that the SST clutch pack might be on its way out. The clutch pack costs about $3000. So after returning, I scheduled a date and got the clutch pack replaced under warranty. I'm so glad I didn't wait until the transmission gave obvious issues. The engineer said that there was excessive play in the clutch pack and was quite surprised (and glad) I felt it just with city driving. According to him, this had been one of the few cars on which they have replaced the clutch pack on warranty. I asked him how this can be, and he said that it is most probably due to SST oil not being changed on time or excessive transmission temperatures. Got wheel alignment checked and an inspection of the undercarriage and suspension for damage caused by the trip. All good! EDIT: Adding videos: Video captured on phone by my friend who was riding on the front passenger seat. Sadly only the slow parts have been captured. Nothing much to see. Second video (sorry about the wind noise) captured by the guy who was in the WRX. I think we're doing about 120 km/h here.

You're missing my point totally. This is what I said about your comment: 1. Car engines do not randomly die. If they do, then there is something to worry about. Saying that there is "nothing to worry about" is simply wrong. 2. When a diagnostic scanner is connected to a car, and when certain parameters are modified through the scanner, you are in fact re-programming the ECU with the new parameters, overriding the car's default parameters. It might be a "simple thing" but what happens internally is a ECU re-program (call it re-initializing if that makes more sense). For a problem like this, you shouldn't even think of doing this, if at all the idle should be manually adjusted, the idle adjustment screw on the throttle body is the way to do it. As for a car stopping like this as a result of ECU learning. I'm afraid you are wrong again. If the car stopped simply because of a battery disconnect, and if the ECU is just re-learning (assuming the rest of the system is working accordingly), then there is no reason for the engine to stop working as a part of learning. Finally, I personally prefer being preventive than reactive. A car doesn't necessarily have to throw a Check Engine light for it to be checked out. An engine that has stalled a couple of times is a reason good enough to submit it for a check-up.

Disagree. This is actually something to worry about. Engines don't just randomly die. Secondly, suggesting ECU reprogramming for a simple issue like this is quite ignorant and also not recommended. First check if your battery terminals are secured properly. If the engine appears to be dying when the AC comes on, it's likely that it's due to a sticky Idle Control Valve. Cleaning it should sort out your issue. When you start the car when the engine is cold, does the RPM go up to about 1500 - 2000 and settle down in the normal position (700 or so) when the engine reaches operating temperature? Have you noticed your RPM needle bouncing about when idle?

Not sure how you missed it, but I did a search for "air freshener" and that's the first result I got. I don't think I'm allowed to post the link here.

A good place usually charges around 8000 per panel according to my knowledge. It sounds like there's damage across two panels in your case, so 15k is not too steep IMO. And since insurance is covering the amount anyway, why not select a good garage for the job?

Thanks for reporting back. This could be useful for other Vezel owners.

+1 on the 'car' smell. I have not used any air freshener on my cars for as long as I can remember, and the cars smell fine. I simply can't stand cars that smell like a flower garden. Have got a headache many times in cars that have a strong air freshener. I've heard that some of them are highly unhealthy as well. Apart from special cases that terra has highlighted above, a car really wouldn't need any special air freshener if: 1. No food is consumed in the car 2. No food/drink containers left in the car 3. None of the occupant smoke inside the car 4. No pets are taken around 5. Stuff that smell bad are sealed and put in the trunk and removed ASAP 6. The interior is aired, vacuumed and cleaned regularly 7. Never let the carpets and vinyl floor mats come into contact with liquids Just my opinion.

Try Auto Force on Saranankara road, Dehiwala. Prices wouldn't be any different from Arabian I guess. What kind of bodywork are you looking at? And what was the quote given by Arabian?

You should be able to find info about many places if you search the forum. Example (from post #20 onwards): http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/3886-after-an-engine-tune-up/?p=278631

oooh right! Thanks!

You shouldn't fill "as much as possible". Stop when the automatic cut-off activates for the first time. And honestly, I think the figure is alright for city driving for an automatic. Yes, agents have a higher price. But for critical components like the timing belt, it's advisable to use only genuine parts. As for labour costs - yes they're high and that's because the agents have the correct tools and equipment to carry out the job properly, and they offer a guarantee on the repair. This is not to say that other mechanics can't get the job done. Genuine parts are available outside, but a lot of important parts like timing belts, clutch and stuff are not easy to find. In fact, I'm unaware of anyone selling them except for the agents.

Not sure I understand what "only one meter is down" means.

Automatic or manual? How did you measure fuel consumption?