Davy

No worries. Thanks for understanding.

Hi rush9975, we understand that you have bought a new car and that you want to keep it nicely. But please don't open a thread for everything that pops up into your head. It makes the forum cluttered with redundant information which makes it difficult for newbies like you to search and find. - Search the forum (here's how). If you did, you would have found the following threads that would help you: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16500-anti-scratch-sticker-for-door-step-interior/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15467-installing-scuff-plates/ - Open a thread titled "Help with my Honda GP5" and ask all your questions in that (like this one) What can happen is that the sills can get scratched and damaged as footwear of passengers strike or rub against them. If you want to protect the sills, go for the sticker or scuff plates.

The carburettor has an idle air control mechanism. It is probably this that is messed up. Not sure about the EG8's carb design, but the idle air control valve should be attached to the carburettor body. You can remove it and clean it using some carb cleaner - safely. Doing so should solve the idle issue if the rest of the carburettor is in working order.

I'm going to assume that the "tank" you are referring to here is the master cylinder housing. If so, what you are saying is that you replaced only the pistons and stuff from another master pump which is not identical to the one on the car? Not a good thing to do. My suggestion would be to just replace the entire master cylinder (this time with the housing as well!) with one that is compatible with your car. You don't want to play Frankenstein with the brakes.

Adding fuel system cleaner to the tank might have caused dirt and gunk in the tank/fuel pump assembly to get lodged inside the fuel filter, causing low pressure at the engine end. Verify if the check engine light (that came on during the second occasion) is related to low fuel pressure. If so, the fuel pump assembly should be taken out, the filter cleaned/replaced.

The error code that resulted in the check engine light should be saved in the ECU error log. A scan will reveal what the issue is, so better get a scan done as soon as possible. The check engine and AC compressor issue are two different issues IMO.

Good point Rumesh. Also, I'd double check the viscosity of the engine oil being used. Using a thicker oil might cause the oil to be displaced out of the shaft sooner than new oil can fill in and lubricate it.

Not all rubber is brake fluid resistant. You should look for one that is specifically designed to be used on hydraulic systems as Rumesh has mentioned above.

My knowledge on turbochargers are limited, but I'll share some comments based on my experience and what I think might be the cause. A turbo can fail within minutes if the shaft isn't lubricated properly. Since oil starvation was observed by the Garret turbo repair shop, your friend's mechanic might want to first check if the oil feed does supply adequate oil into the turbo, without repeatedly changing turbos expecting a different result. The oil feed line might be blocked (sludge, carbon or even a bent pipe). EDIT: Just read your post again and saw the part about the oil pressure. May I ask how the oil pressure was checked? Was it by tapping into the oil pressure switch plug hole or by checking the pressure on the oil feed line to the turbo?

That indeed looks like it's very well kept. Congratulations! A light polish and a clean-up of the headlights and it'll start looking like it just left the factory. Good luck with the car.

I wouldn't recommend cataloy because the brake fluid will slowly weaken it. Plus, cataloy is meant to be kept moisture-free after application. Not sure about Araldite either because there is no guarantee of how the chemicals will react once it comes into contact with brake fluid. The best thing to do is to find an o-ring which will seal the gap between the reservoir and the master cylinder. Should be pretty easy to find. Just take the plastic reservoir with you and look for one with the matching size. A temporary fix would be to apply a few rounds of Teflon tape (referred to as "thread seal" in Sri Lanka). Doesn't react with brake fluid.

Rattles and random noises are difficult to diagnose without experiencing the noise in person. But the grinding noise could be the fresh/recirculate flap opening and closing. If you have an automatic AC (and if you have it set to "auto"), the system occasionally opens and closes this vent to maintain the air condition inside the car. Try manually pressing the fresh/recirculate switch to determine if you hear the grinding noise. If you do, then this is probably due to the lack of lubrication or dust accumulation between the moving parts of the flap. A simple clean-up should eliminate the noise. Please note that this is just a guess.

These threads should answer your questions: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/17344-honda-fit-gp5-car-service/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15480-honda-fit-hybrid-maintenance/ Please search by following the guidelines given in this thread.

Only seeing this today. Nice set of photos. Thanks for sharing iRage.

Agree with Rumesh about the possibility of a vacuum leak. The duration within which you feel the loss of braking power the time where the vacuum is trying to overtake the leak, but is still behind. Is this a new Cerato Crosswind? If so, I think the vacuum for the booster is not supplied by the intake manifold, but by an electrically controlled vacuum pump. I'm pretty sure that this is how it is on the Sorento. You should be able to verify by following the booster vacuum line and inspecting where it is affixed to at the other end. If vacuum is supplied through the intake manifold, then try racing your engine as soon as it starts (so that vacuum builds up faster) and see if the 30 second window closes up. If it does, then there's a high probability that it is indeed a vacuum leak. By the way Rumesh, this is the first time I'm hearing about the "notch" on the booster. I have in fact removed a KE20 booster, but I didn't notice this. However, I have seen boosters with a check valve.

Sorry for having to go OT here, but a few things need to be corrected. Not true. A wheel alignment should be done in any situation where the suspension system has either been worked on, or had to be even partially taken apart for another repair. This includes, changing tyres, rims, replacing wheel bearings, shocks, CV joints, transmission repair (on vehicles that has a front axle), power steering or any suspension repair. As for EFI tune-up, Waiting long enough until your car develops "significant pulling power issues" is not a good idea. If you want the engine to run optimally (which in turn ensures fuel efficiency and a smooth drive), you need to ensure that the car undergoes a fuel system clean-up every now and then. Garages in Matara: I remember trinity getting a repair done from a place in Matara and was quite happy with their work. Not really sure if that was UniMo in Matara. Also OP, we have the thread below. You can use it to find/share info about good workshops. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15974-good-mechanics-technicians-workshops/

How is this thread different from the earlier thread you have created? The answers that members have given you in your old thread is no different now.

Your mechanic did two things wrong: 1. Comparing a used strut with a newer one, when done will obviously give the results you explained. 2. Telling you that a strut is supposed to "compress" on sudden impact. This is not really correct. A shockabsorber actually dampens the impact. It shouldn't be easily retractable. So are you saying that your mechanic installed two older struts? Or did you buy new OEM ones? Also, read the second paragraph of The Don's first response on this thread.

The ETC is "Electronic Transmission Control" and was popular in old Toyota vehicles with automatic transmission. There should be a switch somewhere (near the gear lever or on the dashboard) to turn ETC on and off. When ETC is on (indicator light is ON), the transmission holds each gear for a bit longer - a bit like the "Sport" position in modern cars. So I don't think ETC indicator is not really a warning light, although I'm not really sure if there are two separate indicators to show "ETC ON" and "ETC Fault". You should however flip the switch to the OFF position and see if that causes the van to move. If it does, then the ETC system is probably at fault. How long since ATF oil was changed?

Struts usually become weaker and softer as they age. So my opinion is that your struts are still okay. But then again if the struts have a lot of miles on them and since you did a complete rear suspension repair, it only makes sense to replace the them as well. The OEM shock that your mechanic compared this to... Was that a new one or a used one?

Discussed before: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16565-how-can-i-avoid-body-scratches-in-a-black-colored-vehicle/

Thought of resurrecting this thread to share this: http://www.bloomberg.com/news/photo-essays/2015-11-19/land-rover-defender-photos

I fail to see what the issue is here. You got your cooling system leaks fixed, both your fans worked to keep the temp gauge at the middle mark. Seems like you are worried about something that is not really a problem. The fans may take different durations to kick in depending on many reasons, so I don't think assuming that it takes too long shouldn't be done based just on your feeling.

I was just going to say the same thing Rumesh! It's quite possible that the issue is with the EVAP system since this happens when the when the engine is cold which is when the EVAP regulates the pressure inside the system. The canister is behind the passenger side rear wheel in the Lancer EX.

So wasn't your heating issue resolved after fixing the leak in the heater line? My opinion is that you should have run the car and observed for a few days if the issue is still there. Because as Rumesh said, if your fans work independently and I'd your temperature gauge is indicating correctly, there is no need to directly wire the fan. Besides I don't think a "specialist" would do that.