Rumesh88

I faced the same problem in my 121 and got it repaired from a place in Udahamulla. Used the car for 2 more years and sold it four years back. If it is just the Teflon bushing then there is no need to replace the rack. However, these cars are now more than 15 years old so a reasonable decision can be made only after an inspection by a mechanic.

If you cannot complete even 5000kms in six months period you need not use synthetic oil. Just use mineral oil and change it in six months.

Make it a point to inspect tires once in every month or so as a preventive measure. Within course of last one year period I found three nails stuck in the tires but only one needing a puncture repair but that too was done in advance. If not for the inspection I could have easily got into trouble on the road.

But you can judge the RPM by just listening to the engine sound can't you? All you need is to observe whether RPM goes up in cold start and then if it comes down slowly over few minutes.

Does your engine rev up to about 1500 RPM on a cold start? Did you get the PCV checked/cleaned?

No. An engine flush would not solve the problem if the sludge is on oil control rings. Most sensible thing to do is to run as it is using the same oil (SAE40) and do the oil change in shorter intervals unless of course you decide to go for a complete engine cleanup/overhaul.

You may have sludge formation on the piston rings (particularly oil control rings) as well. Also it is possible that the engine is worn out (in spite of what your Odo meter says). You can get an idea by doing a compression test but that would not indicate a problem in oil control rings.

In between two services how much oil do you have to fill up? Any noticeable sludge formation in the cam area or on OCV filter?

As for the first item (oil leak from valve cover gasket and timing chain O-ring) I suggest you to get the PCV valve checked/cleaned/replaced (as the case warrants) at the same time. If PCV is clogged up or faulty it can cause positive pressure inside the crankcase and will aggravate possible oil leaks.

If so while the engine is running on idle (750 RPM) at engine working temperature pull out the PCV while it is still attached to the hose and check if RSO/RSC PWM comes to its values shown in datasheet. Be careful when you pull out the PCV because the rubber grommet may have become hard unless it has been replaced recently.

How is your PCV? Are you sure it is not stuck?

If the nominal idle RPM for our car without AC and headlights on is 800 then 725 is a tad bit low. When you shift to D there can be a slight drop in RPM but dropping from 725 to 500 is not quite normal. However in an EFI engine the idle RPM is decided by IACV assuming that the air cleaner is not clogged up, there are no vacuum leakages on inlet manifold side and that TPS, MAF, PCV are in order and the throttle is set at its factory set position. Usually there is no need to increase/adjust the idle speed by turning the idle screw from its original position.

I have the same car and but I never ever use its Eco mode as I find it makes the car a PITA to drive. Otherwise it is a "reasonable" car. Of course if you are used to driving an ICE car with nippy acceleration perhaps you may find a bit of lack in power.

It would help if you indicate your location so that those members in your area can respond with recommendations. However, ATF exchangers are available with almost all major service stations. Same goes for Toyota T-IV ATF which is freely available at most automotive spare part shops and the agent'. BTW I do not consider use of an exchanger without the use of the drain plug as the best method for a complete flush unless your specific circumstances warrant such procedure. You may go through the following thread for some insights on the complete procedure even though DIY may not be your cup of tea.

@john cooperNo. It will not show up directly in a scan but one can get a general idea of fuel starvation at idle speed by looking at fuel trim readings when an EGR valve is stuck. (In some engines you have a fault code defined but I donot know what the detection algorithm is) A faulty PCV will not result in any detectable changes in scanned readings. However both these units are easy to remove, inspect, clean, and replace if necessary. @DKing Yes you have two coils shared between four cylinders. This is why it is important to check/replace the plug wire too. If the associated plug wire is open that could result in a weak spark both cylinders. BTW I am unable to recommend a mechanic in your area I'm afraid.

When you replaced the coil did you replace it along with the plug wire paired up with the other plug? Before you replace the ignition coils better if you can get a compression test done (with a simple hand-held compression meter) just to rule out a compression leak. It sounds more like a engine miss to me so it finally boils down to weak ignition coils, plug wires, or a compression leak.

Do you have the same vibration even a fter the engine is fully warmed up? There can be several possibilities from a vacuum leak in intake manifold (EGR, PCV) to faulty MAF, TPS, IACV, injectors, sparkplugs and ignition coils. During to tune up most of these parts must have been tested/cleaned. But sometimes EGR and PCV are simply ignored by mechanics. Weak ignition coils are difficult to test so would have to be replaced if all other things are OK. Do you get a cough like sound from the silencer?

Did they clean EGR valve during tune up?

Could be due to a stuck EGR. Get it checked and cleaned.

IACV can give you P0505 OBD code and turn the check engine light on but not always (perhaps the conditions to trigger the code may be a bit complex). If you are getting a fault code isn't it better to check first with a scanner?

How about your IACV?

The symptoms explained are that of idle hunting and bad stepper motor. Was it with a new one that you replaced or a used one?

Alternatives for 3317 has been discussed before. 1. http://autolanka.com/forums/topic/18990-swift-2004-atf-oil/?tab=comments#comment-304411 2. http://autolanka.com/forums/topic/8642-vibration-after-atf-change/#comment-126520

No. That much is not enough. TPS is just a variable resistor but it should give a smooth seamless variation in resistance value in proportion with the throttle angle. When you checked for above voltages you should have moved the throttle very slowly and observed for smooth variation in voltage. Usually TPS units get worn out close to their idle position because that is where the most frequent movement occurs.

Does the engine run at its steady idle speed once you get it going? If so, check TPS first. On this engine TPS is a simple 3-terminal device which can be tested with a multi-meter. Also check for possible vacuum leaks behind the throttle including those caused by possible cracks in injector washers.