Rumesh88

You are a insurer's nightmare, aren't you? If your current insurer has given you a proper service so far I do not see a reason to go for another. It is just that your risk rating has gone up for obvious reasons. Get a quote from another one and compare.

When the engine is fully warmed up and running in idle mode (like when you stop at a traffic light on your way) if you notice an unusual engine vibration and an shaky RPM needle that is that we call a rough idle.

Is it a rough idle you are experiencing?

1NZ-FE engine comes with a timing chain not a belt.

@gayanath Authorities ie CEA will definitely take action finally only after all the water resources in the country are polluted and a considerable number of people die of poisoning as a result. Well not that CEA is completely silent on this. Some years back (2008 or 2009) they launched a publicity awareness program on e-waste. Part of the program was collection of mobile and other rechargeable batteries among other e-waste. They made a mountain of a media event for a mole hole out of a much wider issue and I still have a memento from the program lying somewhere in a cupboard. As far as I know that was all. If that's the kind of perception they made in a person who was involved in the program from beginning to the end you can judge the success of such events yourself.

I think that's the whole point in these DIY procedures. It is not about saving a few bucks but if you know the procedures then you can pass a judgement on the mechanic yourself. When it comes to reputed garages I was at a loss couple of times when I sought services of the agent (once I changed axle boots and they gave me the car with wrong toe-in adjustment. Another time they asked me to overhaul an engine which only needed a simple tune up ). Also if the garage is good then the queue is long and you are sure to get stuck for a whole day for a job otherwise will take only a hour or two. Anyway just different viewpoints.

If the leak is through the sump packing it is not a big deal. I hope the packing was replaced with a new one during the overhaul. However, before replacing with a new packing the sump must be checked for warping and dents particularly at the mounting holes. Once they are corrected there is no reason for fluid to leak through the sump packing. However, the leak can be from other places like connection to the oil cooler. This must be checked with the engine running as Crosswind explained above. But take care if you decide to go under the car with the engine running and gear in D!

Yes. You need to remove used fluid but emptying the gear box is not the way to do it. For most auto transmissions you can follow following DIY steps. 1. Note the fluid capacity of the box. It is in the region of 6 - 8 litres for most common cars. Buy the required amount of fluid with one to two litres in excess. 2. Identify the fluid output line from the fluid cooler to the gear box. If you are not sure of it, disconnect any one of the lines, keep a bucket below to capture spilling fluid, and get someone to start the engine for just a few seconds to identify the output side. 3. Run the engine until it comes to its working temperature range. 4. Drain fluid by removing the drain plug. Usually only about 2 - 3L will be drained out. Rest of the fluid will be retained in the transconverter and valve body. Allow to drain for a couple of hours if possible unless you intend to execute Step 5 below. Otherwise skip to Step 6. Fix the drain plug back. 5. (Optional) Remove the fluid sump, inspect and clean the magnets, inspect and replace fluid filter and fix the sump back with a new packing. Inspect the magnets and filter for metal and fiber shavings. That will give you an idea of the state of the gear box. This step may be only necessary in every other fluid change or if the fluid is severely discolored . 6. Remove the fluid output line from the fluid cooler. Connect it to a clear plastic tubing (usually a 3/8 or 1/4 inch diameter one from a hardware shop will do but check the inner diameter of the tube first). Keep the other end of the clear tube in a bucket of 4 to 6 L capacity to capture drained fluid. Plug the free end of the fluid return inlet to the gear box just to create an additional vacuum when the fluid is drained out. Make sure that any dirt and debris do not make their way into the gear box during this process. 7. Keep a funnel (some cases a long neck one or a tube attached to a normal funnel may be necessary) and fluid cans ready to pour in as and when you empty the cans. 8. Fill up the gear box to the top mark of the dip stick and get someone to start the engine. Go on filling fluid as the used fluid in the transconverter is being drained out now. Keep an eye on the clear tube connected to the fluid cooler output for a change in the fluid color from dark to clear. As soon as new fluid comes out through the clear tube stop the engine. 9. Fix the cooler lines back, start the engine and with the engine running adjust the fluid level to the mark on the dip stick. The procedure above is somewhat generalized but should be good for most common auto transmissions. (Hope I didn't miss out on any details). Edit: Forgot to add a detail to step 8. While adding new fluid with the engine running, get someone to change the gears from P to the bottom and all the way back again to P pausing at each gear for a couple of seconds.

As Twin Turbo pointed out above you should not run the engine without fluid in the gear box. Not only that could result in undue wear but may leave some air trapped in the fluid path.

When making sure that there is no check engine light it is not just dashboard indication but also get the car scanned to ensure that there are no fault codes stored. Some of our mechanics have a habit of bypassingthe dashboard indication.

After a run allow the engine to fully cool down (say in the morning). Then open the radiator cap and check if the coolant level is right up to the lower seal of the cap. If the level is down then there is a problem somewhere in the system.

Davy is right about the motor whine but if it is a sudden development better to get it checked as he suggested above. BTW when did you or the previous owner changed transmission fluid? Do you have previous maintenance records?

It can be the engine mounts as Davy pointed out above but since you refer to a weird engine noise too my guess is that it could be a clogged up EGR valve.

What's wrong with the breather hose? It is just an ordinary straight piece of pipe. If you cannot find the original part you can use a similar hose cut to size instead.

Perhaps cars are no longer considered "consumer durables" (:D)

Well, that's an extreme case!

Oil burning issue by itself would not cause your car to go into Limp Mode. Of course excessive oil burning can spoil the O2 sensors and generate an alarm. First get the car scanned and see what actually caused it to go into Limp Mode instead of simply assuming Limp Mode is due to oil burning.

Welcome to the forum. If you notice compressed oil fumes in the engine first step is to remove, test and clean the PCV valve or if the PCV is really stuck to replace it. As a quick test start the engine, open the oil filling cap, place the cap upside down on the filler hole and observe how the cap moves up and down. If your PCV is stuck the cap would be thrown off. The idea behind the test is that normally you should have a "net" negative pressure inside the crankcase. In some cases oil baffles inside the valve cover could be clogged up too but first attend to the PCV and see if it makes a difference.

At the ECO test they take readings at both idle and 2500 RPM. Which one of this is failing? Or is it both? Only adjustment of the Air Fuel (A/F) ratio that can be in this type of carb is that of the idle mixture as others have pointed out above. Provided the rest of the things like spark plugs, air cleaner, PCV valve,idle adjustment are OK, the A/F ratio during cruising speeds mainly depends of the size of the main jet (which is fixed of course) and cleanliness of the emulsifying tubes (There are two of them but let's concentrate on the primary one). Emulsifying tubes can be cleaned easily by spraying an liberal amount of carb cleaner through it top air bleeder opening. Get someone to do it first. Usually you do not need to open up the carb.

I do not know him personally but those who sought his services have given good reviews. I am positive that he would be able to solve your issues but you need to keep in mind no one can give a commitment on anything to the degree of certainty that you seem to be expecting!

So you take the car over to Ravi Perera of Bulugaha Junc and show him both the issues (oil and fluid leaks) and get his opinion. Most sensible thing to do.

I am afraid I cannot recommend a place near Gampaha although I am from the same area. You will be better off with Nilwala though you would have to travel a bit instead of trying with totally unknown mechanics.

Depends on how serious the leak is. In some cases it is not only the PCV but you need to clean the cam cover internals (I mean oil baffles inside) too. But the PCV is external and can be easily removed tested and cleaned. As a routine I usually clean PCV valves once in couple of years. However your description of the issue is not really clear. Can please you take a picture of the leak and post here?

Well if you keep your engine on start and open the oil cap there will be some oil spilling out from the opening but that is normal. PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve. It is located on the cam cover.

Do you mean to say oil is spilling out from the cap? If so the first thing is to check/clean and replace (if necessary) the PCV.