harshansenadhir

FYI, many popular engine designs (including Toyota 1C, 2C) got the water pump to be driven by the T-Belt.

i don't think any sensible guy would expect this figure even from a Maruti 800.

Choosing a 10 year old corolla over 2-3 year old insight would make sense in Sri Lankan context, so to speak.

wouldn't recommend a used import hybrid which has again used in local context for sometime, for a first timer on a vehicle. You'll be better off with a commonly known / popular vehicle, such as Corolla 121 / Allion or even with slight stretch you can get into a 141. There are many options outthere for you to consider for that kind of a budget than jumping into a used hybrid. if you consider buying a brand new hybrid from agents with warranty, that's a different story.

I don't see any wrong in this model except the relatively low pulling power and fuel economy of the 1.3l version, which is also known as B15. Make a lot of sense to grab one than paying exaggerrate prices of those 110s which are generally older than FB15 and with analogue odo meters etc. Only weakness I've heard as first hand information is the premature wear of disk rottors and uncurable brake sounds from front wheels.

happy to help and thanks for courtesy of updating the forum back. Not everyone does it.

Bending of the connecting rod would happen at the point of the sudden stop of the piston movement. If it further presses, then the piston would get damaged.

you mean the valve seats or the entire head? valve seats and combustion chamber can damage by broken valves if the engine was running at a higher rpm when this happened. However, I'm sure those would've inspected when the engine has been re-assembled and a proper head crack detection test was done. the same thing happened in 4G15 engine of the Lancer. Luckily, only one piston has knocked with valves. I've changed all valves and piston + connecting rod of the piston which got knocked with valves. how valves bent is when the piston moves up and hits the valve which was pushed towards combustion chamber. What moves piston is the crank + ply wheel and if the vehicle was running, the power of rolling motion of the wheels also would turn the crank. Piston cannot move further upward coz the valve is stuck but it tries to push upwards because crank still rotates as I said earlier. this power then causes in 1. bending valves 2. bending connecting rod 3. Damaging piston 4. Damaging crank shaft 5. Damaging the head in the above severity order.

Ok, seems this is only related to cooling system. no inter-relationship with the A/C system. Can you carryout following steps from a cold start. 1.Open the radiator cap and check whether there's coolant in visinity. if not add coolant / water 2. Start the engine (keep A/C switched off) 3. Watch how the temp gague rise up. Also watch for radiator fans. tell us following, 1.How long does it takes for the gauge to reach middle point. ? 2. does fan engages as gauge reaches middle point? 3. if not at which point fans do kick in ? 4 does water spurts out radiator cap openning before / after fans start running?

point to ponder : although the valves are new, the valves got bent by colliding with the piston. Chances are 1. Piston/Pistons got damaged (sometimes valves can poke through piston top) 2. Connecting rods also slightly bent. This is very tricky as it's really tough to determing a slightly bent connecting rod.

I would give this advise to relatively old vehicles without a/c condensers infront of the radiator and also if the radiator got stiff copper fins. Most a/c condensers and radiators nowadays got tiny alluminium fins. High pressure washer jet might bend these fins creating more resistance to air flaw. Been there done that, I know this isn't a good idea

Not wheel alignment but it's wheel balancing whats required after a tire change. Let alone tire change, if the existing tire has taken off the rim without putting a mark on rim and tire, ideally that wheel should be balanced. Logic is to make sure weight of the rim + tire is even across all axis.

Thermostat Valve obviously. If the valve has been removed, coolant will always recirculate through rad. When cruising, heat exchange would continuously happen and would bring the gauge down from middle point (coolant temp lower than operating temp) If the vehicle stops or travels in bumper to bumper, then the temp would rise upto the point where temp sender unit sends the signal to operate fans. So in this case, need to identify how significant this "rise" of the gauge.

Heat gauge moving up slightly when vehicle is standstill can be noticed, if the thermostat has been removed. 1. Is it moving passing the middle point? 2. Is it happening while a/c switched on or off? 3. If answer for no 2 is yes, does it happen in the day time only? 4. Does the same happens if you run and park the vehicle in your driveway ?

well said. Wonder why there are fuse boxes in vehicles? Been wondering, the fire incidences reported on highway out numbered the ones happened elsewhere. Assume this was a factory defect. Still the same model cars are running about elsewhere without any issue. Something to do with continuous high speed cruising? static current ? seems worth a research.

Nothing unusual as don said. Just that idle up valve / stepper motor increases the engine speed during first few minutes of a cold start.

Whats funny in this ? In fact this was the good old method of communicating about the specific instructions to whoever drives that Bus as it's not unique single driver who gets into the driving seat.

Fuel flows back to the tank for sure. Check the diesel filter housing (hand pump) and fuel lines. Usual culprit is the hand pump. If there's a unit where you can fix and check, will be the best to isolate issue

I pretty much doubt that you can gain / improve comfort factor by changing shocks or replacing shocks. However if you need to compromise stability and have a soft ride, go for oil pressured shocks instead of gas cartridge type.

Doubt how the rebuild cost of an AL4 gearbox helps the situ. However, used AL4 boxes were quoted around 250,000 mark. Re-build cost including oil was less than 150k.

Indeed. This is the Citroën sister of 104. Citroën LNA

Cpmpletely wrong and a misperception. We've re-built a much complex AL4 gearbox with far less minimum facilities. YouTube helped though

This was sudden after the service, so something to do with messing up with sensors, wiring, kick down cable etc. On a different note, the gearbox and final drive ( diff / rear axle ) should be changed to diesel ones.

It's weirder than that. It's in the engine bay on top of the engine. Usually the engine is 45 degrees (or more?) angled ( just like in 504) allowing more room beneath the engine and the hood.

Yes front wheel and guess where the spare wheel is located.