PerfMad
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Everything posted by PerfMad
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Sorry to hear about your issue. There is nothing to be worried as this is a straight fix. The issue is you have a leak in your heater core line. Either you can replace it with a good one/get it fixed if possible or close the heater core line(as this part is not been used in SL weather conditions). Get this vehicle to a good mechanic and he should be able to fix the issue. However, if you want to keep the car in original condition, i suggest you to fix it or replace that leaking part, or else what most of the mechanics does is, block that line permanently(which is less cheaper fix) so such issue will not occur thereafter.
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How many KM's have you done as of now (if you don't mind me asking)? And i heard that Panda throttle body prematurely fails, mos of the idling issues occur due to that.. There is a FB group for Panda's & if you are not a member , i suggest you to join it and seek for answers, because i remember recently someone told similar symptoms (except engine cut off) and it was due to throttle body (if im correct). Just a headsup!!
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what were the symptoms which lead you to decide that the ECU is the culprit? and what sort of investigation did micro company and ur mechanic do? Might come in handy for others too..
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if possible just try to get a second opinion, i've seen my mechanic doing some ECU repairs for cars which had idling issues due to ECU i.e: daihatsu and nissan. So if interested I'll give you his contact details, pay a visit, he might be able to resolve it. PM me if your interested.
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Did you check the possibility of fixing it rather than replacing? there are knowledgeable people around who are capable of fixing ECU issues..
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So sad to hear it. By the way, from where did u get the head gasket and hoses changed? Just curious what the current millage of your vehicle, if you don't mind me asking? and if im correct this could happen due to blockage in water line passages inside the engine as well/ water pump issue. (assuming your radiator fans and thermostat are in perfect order)
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Yes.. I know he owns a 2003 model. And i know that you will claim that it's not possible. Even doing some research i thought the same.. but it had a turbo in it.. not quite sure whether it was fixed by the previous owner later. When i asked him whether he has the original engine he was positive. However since there is the engine cover, not quite sure whether he checked under that or not.. either way the one i drove was a turbo vehicle and it had considerable amount of power with turbo while having 7 people inside.. I guess in this case taking my opinion would be a wastage since the only one i drove seems to be bit different compared to the rest. Therefore, better check with few owners to get more knowledge on most common issues and is it a good investment or not.
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i don't no about the factory settings, but i heard the turbo spooling sound in between 1800-2500 rpm range (if im not mistaken) + i just checked with him he said his vehicle is turbo charged (not quite sure its done afterwards or not) but he also mentioned turbo part is also mentioned in the door.
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not quite sure.. but that's what i heard from him (assuming he is correct).
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if you are referring to getting an opinion on whether its a good choice for money then, I guess it should be checked with few owners. However, one of my friend owns one, therefore i drove it couple of times. Ride is really smooth and comfortable and very luxurious space as well.. When you hear turbo spooling sound you'll love putting more power to it. As per him fuel figures are around 8kmpl in city limits (diesel auto version). and his vehicle have done 230k KM's when he was purchasing it.. Few concerns he had was like some parts are bit hard to find (as per him), therefore couple of parts have been already replaced with Mitsubishi IO jeep by the previous owner.. ie. brake booster..
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Honda city 2001 idle rpm with ac
PerfMad replied to ThushanthaSrimal's question in Electrical problems
I have the same model with vtec, however mine idles around 700 without AC and with AC it idles around 850-900 (not more than that) and car doesn't have any vibrations around that idle speed so i believe its the exact value and haven't face any issue with AC. However, when its parked under hot sunlight for longer period in any vehicle, it does take sometime to cool things inside since the metal and all other components should be cooled as well.. The best thing is to open the shutters and drive for 5 mins or so and then slowly switch on the AC (even with full cold position). This is common to any car (except newer models are capable of cooling inner compartment via mobile software prior to entering your car). -
mitsubishi galant car Mitsubishi car
PerfMad replied to Chinthaka1986's question in Mechanical problems
looks like you have so many related issues which affects your fuel figures and emission. First thing first, get your vehicle to a mechanic and get an engine tuneup done. During the tuneup pls make sure you check the condition of plug wires, spark plugs and fuel filter, air filter and replace if necessary. and end of this tuneup your engine should have all 4 cylinders working.. For carburetor tuneup, i suggest you go to Mr. Dhammika (at kotta road, rajagiriya) he is well known person for tuning carbs properly for best fuel consumption.. -
you're welcome !!
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if that's the case your issue might be resolved simply by replacing the head gasket.. however if you want to pay a visit and get an opinion then here is my mechanic contact details: Vipula motors (located at nawala koswatta) contact no - 0722 196 030
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just curious don't you see bubbles even when the gasket is damaged ?? @segu can recommend a place near Nawala if its convenient for u
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Hey folks, i just recorded the behavior of the RPM meter for your reference. Please note that the sudden loss of RPM shown in the video is only when i press the clutch paddle on the move.. and at other time even with the knock rpm will reduce smoothly. **note: really sorry about the noise, i forgot to mute the radio prior. Please use below link to view the video, if there are any issues with the video viewing please do let me know. http://www.mediafire.com/file/h74dev1ur4hfih6/20171212_193332.mp4
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@Rumesh88 How to diagnose whether IACV is faulty or not? in neutral if u accelerate upto 5000-6000 and release still it will slow down as normal without any hesitation. Last year when i did the engine tuneup i asked to clean the IACV value twice and second time i was there when it was performed and it was cleaner and i saw it was moving freely (when it was disassembled for cleaning).. This issue occurs only when moving.. Add to that after cleaning the injectors and its filters, car is more smoother again and powerful too.. Just curious could this be due to someother reason, my front shocks are also now in bad shape and i hear daga daga noise as well.. but i believe this has no relation.
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Hi machan Looks like i need to rename the titile of the thread..the issue has nothing to do with the ac ..i get the knock even when the ac is on. This issue can be recreated anytime hence its comin always..only thing is if i keep the fas paddle bit steady n release it then rpm comes down slowly as expected..this happenes only if i release it suddenly.. However i will check this clutch thing u suggested n chek the rpm meter readings..
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@MAS Yes, the thing is car idles without any hesitation.. Only problem is when i release the gas paddle in between 1000-2000 this knock comes and settles down again around 1100-1200 rpm range..
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Hey Folks, Its been awhile and im still having the issue as it is. Today I went to another mechanic, he did an engine tuneup and did a test drive, and issue remains same. He's suspecting its the KNOCK sensor and told me there is, no other way to check it whether its faulty or not, other than replacing.. Also he wanted to check prior by connecting it to the obd port but unfortunately mine has a port like the attached, and his connector wasn't supporting mine. What are the possible areas that i could check for? and is there anyway to diagnose the KNOCK sensor prior to replacing?
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Better check with someone else who uses the same car to see what the original bulb socket is.. As far as i know it should be H4.
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Best thing is, replace the bulb with left hand side bulb and see whether issue remains.. if issue resolves, then it could be due to some issue in your right side bulb connector.. Let us know your findings, then we can guide you to identify the exact root cause.
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I heard that there is a place around kohuwala area where does cell replacement. And if im correct, per cell they charge 50k.. I can't seems to find the contact details.
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Not quite sure, whether this is helpful. But if possible try to find the reset button/hole and try resetting the player first. This might resolve the issue as well.
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Hi @asanka_rg Do identify the exact issue, you can do the following; - Turn the steering to right side fully and do a quick acceleration and listen to any kata kata noice - Turn the steering to Left side fully and do a quick acceleration and listen to any kata kata noice If you get the noise from either/both sides then your CV joints have worn out and need replacement.. My advice is to replace both at once, otherwise you will have to replace the other side after few KM's which will result u additional labor cost + trouble. Furthermore, i believe for ur model CV join can be replaced separately without replacing the whole axle ..(not quite sure, but over to experts) Cheers
