Ted

My Dear Friends, I thought of publishing an article kind of a thing to a particular community who use vehicles manufacd in 1990's with a huge expectation to relaunch their vehicles as they were in those days but still struggling. Merely due to this reason they tend to sell the vehicle and go for a budget vehicle ( indeed if they could invest more, then they could have bought a luxury car ryt? who then are not in this community). Why they are struggling? Because, 1) Due to lack of knowledge of repair or non availability of quality service centers who do 100% according to the manufacturer's repair recommendations. 2) Due to lack of spare parts or lack of knowledge of OEM or alternative spare parts suppliers. 3) Poor Maintenance due to lack of proper guidance. I created this thread to describe above more in details. I open this to all 1990s vehicle lovers to get together and find solutions to above in SL market.

My Dear Friend, @The Don has given you the answer to your problem and just check whether your car DVD player too has some security code which is required if power is reset. While replacing the battery make sure you are there because I have seen many cars with the battery tray have been lost.

These symptoms are not for bad transmission fluid. That is 100% sure. A valve can be malfunctioning and even if found the cost of repair and the cost of particular spare part which I don't think can be found, is always equal or higher than replacing with a reconditioned gear box is the best option which would cost no more than 60k at max. Anyway @Ishtiak please let us know what you found out actually. So that we can confirm out of the two contradictions.

My Dear Friend, For your car there is no electronically controlled functions for D. ECU is only connected to ECT modes. What is happening in the auto gear box is changing gears based on the governor valve and the throttle valve. So I think there is no electronically incompatibility if ECT modes are same.

If the gearbox is still the old one then, please replace your engine with a reconditioned one.

If you like DIY. Do please let me know. I will tell you how. But you will need some special tools which you should buy but won't waste ever...

Dear Friend, I do not recommend repairing steering racks. Better option is buying a reconditioned one. I think cost for both options has no big difference. Anyway for your problem please check whether the steering rack nut is in correct tight. Please check this video to find where that nut is. What this nut does is tighten the rack to the rack housing. Too much tight will cause hard to steer. Less tight will cause steering play.

Catalytic converter bugging in the sense? giving an alarm only or it has directly affected to your performance? I hope this is your alarm code. If so please follow the steps accordingly. Fault Code :- Р0420 Affected System :- Low efficiency catalytic converter Reasons :- - Exhaust pipe and catalytic converter. - Leaks in the exhaust system. - AFS sensor (S1). - Oxygen sensor (S2).

If you have an Engine Oil leak these are the victims, 1) Oil leak from Oil pan. rectification can be done yourself. 2) Oil leak from Crank shaft Oil seal. There are two oil seals. LHS and RHS. Thease are hard to replace. LHS replacement require transmission removal. 3) Oil leak from camshaft Oil seal. This is at head. Oil leaking out from this will pour along the engine and drops from engine bottom. 4) Oil leak from Oil filter. Check oil filter if properly fitted. rectification can be done yourself. If you have Transmission Oil leak, please let me know then...

My Dear Friend, I can say following components in your car which matters 80% of your problem. Hence please check them one by one and try to isolate where the problem is. 1) EGR valve. EGR valve provides external air supply to burn half burnt fuel. If your EGR valve is not working then your emission is not good. 2) Injectors need to spray. If this spray function is not properly done then kind of observations can be seen. So better you check whether your injectors still give the required flow rate with proper spraying function. You will have to check your car manual specs for that or internet. 3) Also check whether your spark plugs are working properly. I saw a DIY in a very good website. You can do it by yourself but be careful when doing. check this link. http://www.garajeka.com/ස්පාර්ක්-ප්ලග්-වැඩද-බලමු/ 4) There are some sensors which determines your Air Fuel supply. They are MAP sensor, MAF sensor, O2 sensor and Cat converter overheat sensor. If these are not functioning well, your air fuel ratio does not work properly and may result rich conditions. I request to check your O2 sensor first. Then MAP and MAF and last Cat converter overheat sensor. Based on vehicle type configuration of above sensors may slightly be different. If you need more assistant please inbox.

Normal condition is that when the engine is heated coolant is overflown to the reservoir tank and when you stop the engine overflown coolant is sent back to the radiator. So please mention what do you mean by overflow. Do the following, 1) Mark coolant level of your resovoir tank in cold. 2) Start your car and have a run around 40 -50kms. 3) Stop and let the car to cold. 4) Check the coolant level. If the coolant level is increased then most probably you have a gasket problem. If above is not what you mean by overflow please let me know how you observed that your coolant is overflown and in which conditions?

Dear Friend, Basically for low fuel consumption 90% of cases are EFI problems. There are sensors and some valves which controls the Air Fuel supply to the engine. First off please let me know what you did for engine tune up. Just cleaning injectors and throttle body do nothing for a big difference of fuel consumption deviation with the specifications of your car. Also changing oil and air filters do not affect much to your fuel consumption. 80% I can say the problem is in your EFI system. Hence if you want to know further please let me know what you had done as engine tune up. Also the mileage.

I am not scared.. send me your real name.. or at least your real email address...

Dear Friend, Yes.. I agree with you. What my point here is this forum is "Ask from an Expert". I have seen other international forums and I expected answers from expert view with proper justifications. Not like go to a good garage and check everything like wise. So I propose admins to allow only a filtered pool to comment "Ask From an Expert". For other common forums it is okay if everyone gets the chance. Indeed I should shoe more maturity. But I have a very bad habit that when I am angry I can't control myself. I know how to be professional because I am working in a such a position now serving the country. Anyway I am very sorry for any inconvenience if occurred... To be honest many of the answers of this forum are not what I expect ( may be I think like an engineer).

I don't wanna be respectful for a pool of fools. This forum sucks...For an engineer like me ( I am an electronic) your answers are not in satisfactory level... I quit..

1) It is a broken valve part which was thrown from previous engine to fuel manifold. 2) 5A-FE Engine. This is a new engine with just 40k mileage from Japan. 3) OKAY. Actually I that is I am going to do. Inspect from the beginning. 3) I am not thinking like that way. What I am saying is some ppl are telling other stories without giving an answer because they don't know the answer. If so they should have been kept silent. That is my point. There are many answers to my question. What I am expecting is answers with decisions according to the expert's point of view but with scientific facts. Rather than doing this some ppl are boasting here. This is "Ask from an Expert" not "General Automotive". Anyway thanks for your comments.

If you are an expert answer like an expert.. If you don't know then don't show your foolishness and keep quiet....

If you are an expert please comment like an expert.... otherwise please keep calm and don't show your foolishness....

Thanks for the satisfactory response...

I wish you the same my friend and to everyone in this forum...

I need an answer like this, 1) The probability of damaging your piston is xx% w.r.t. transferring the force to crankshaft. Since crankshaft is made of forged iron it is highly unlikely that your crankshaft is bent due to this foreign part. 2) If you still think you crankshaft is damaged you can check it and this is how it can be checked....bla bla bla 3) There are other things which you should check. One is.... two is.... Like this. Please do not waste your time by writing boring stories here if you cannot answer like above. BECAUSE I HAVE POSTED THIS IN "ASK FROM EXPERT" and experts are not like that....

My Dear Friends, I did notice recently in this forum is that ppl are giving comments not to the point. Earlier this trend was not in the forum. If you cannot give a comment to the point and write stories here it is a waste of time. Please I still did not find satisfactory answer..

Dear All, I challenge you if there is somebody who can answer to my question. Autolanka make a very good servide but I am highly doubtful whether I have got a clear answer to my question which I have been submitting weeks ago. My question is what is the damage if a small ( 3mm width, 5mm length and 4mm depth) was one of my pistons of my car and I had run with it around 30 kms? Visible damages were 5 small scars on piston with around 2mm depths. Ever after removal there is a little noise coming from the engine. No visible and tangible worn signs of the cylinder. 1) Has my piston damaged? 2) Has my crankshaft damaged? 3) or any other ? Only experts can answer this. I hope such an expert is in Sri Lanka.