Hyaenidae

It has the dreaded wet belt (belt-in-oil) so I would avoid it if I were you Go for a Toyota Taisor (Rebadged FronX) if you want to please the brand snobs

Magnite's gonna make this list I think. People seem to be very interested in it

Ran the query through GPT just for fun 😬 Below is what usually happens on a 2013-2020 “GM6” platform Honda City/Grace and how it fits your symptoms. ---------------------------------------------------- 1. Can a worn inner CV joint make a knock when you hit a pothole? ---------------------------------------------------- • Inner (in-board) CV joints typically knock or clunk when torque reverses – for example the moment you get on/off the throttle or shift from Drive to Reverse. • They are almost silent on pure vertical impact loads such as a pothole hit; the joint is not changing angle and the tripod rollers stay centred. • A bad INNER joint therefore **rarely produces a “pothole knock.”** • An OUTER joint can “rattle” on bumps if the cage is badly worn, but it is accompanied by the classic metallic clicking on tight turns – which you have not reported. Conclusion: replacing axles is unlikely to solve a noise heard only when the wheel travels up/down over road damage. ---------------------------------------------------- 2. What is common on the 2016 Grace and where else to look? ---------------------------------------------------- After 100 000 km the parts you already renewed are indeed the usual culprits, but this platform still has a few spots that mechanics overlook: 1. Strut top nut or bearing plate – The new struts come with an M14 shaft nut that must be run down with an impact gun *after* the car is sitting on its wheels. If that nut is even ¼ turn loose, the shaft jumps inside the mount every time the wheel drops, making a single “tok”. 2. Upper spring isolator (rubber seat) – Re-used isolators compress and the spring can re-index in the pocket when the strut extends suddenly. You feel it as a sharp knock through the floor pan. 3. Stabiliser (sway-bar) D-bush brackets on the sub-frame – New polyurethane or “555” aftermarket bushes are slightly narrower than OEM. The brackets bottom on the stops before they squeeze the bar, leaving clearance that only appears when the bar is unloaded (wheel in the air). Grease the bar, bolt up, then pry the bar up/down by hand; if it clicks, insert 0.5 mm shims or fit genuine bushes. 4. Steering rack mounting bolts / EPS rack guide adjuster – The electric rack is isolated by two aluminium/composite bushes. If the through-bolts were not torqued to 64 N·m or the guide screw preload was not set, the rack shifts in the cradle over bumps and the sound travels up the column. Have someone kick a tyre while you watch the rack; any visible fore-and-aft movement is wrong. 5. Front sub-frame locating dowels – During the suspension job the sub-frame may have been dropped. If the two taper dowels were not re-aligned, the sub-frame can “pop” against the body on sharp impacts. Loosen the four main bolts, jiggle the frame, then torque to spec (74 N·m) starting with the rear pair. 6. Brake pad or caliper bracket play – New slide pins won’t cure a knock if the pad backing plates are slightly undersize. Fit anti-rattle shims or new OEM pads. 7. Engine mount (torque rod) – The small horizontal mount at the rear of the engine lets the power-train rock into the firewall on rebound. Its failure is common on hybrid Grace/City because Auto-Stop starts the engine every few seconds. Look for cracked rubber or shiny witness marks on the bracket. Is it “common”? Owners on Thai, Indian and Sri-Lankan forums report exactly this “one sharp knock on potholes” at 70–120 k km; the fixes most often reported successful are: • Retorquing the strut top nuts / replacing the top bearings. • Changing the sway-bar D-bushes with genuine parts. • Packing the steering rack guide or replacing the rear engine mount. ---------------------------------------------------- Practical next steps (no extra parts thrown): 1. With the wheels on the ground, put a socket on the strut shaft nut and give it 1/8 turn – if it moves, test-drive. 2. Pry the sway-bar up/down at the D-bush; if it clicks, shim or replace bushes. 3. Have a helper kick the left wheel while you look at the rack; retorque mount bolts. 4. Jack one wheel, grab the drive shaft near the inner joint and shake up/down – a bad inner joint will “thunk” even without rotation. If it is quiet, the CVs are innocent. Only if step 4 clearly shows play should you spend money on new axles.

Replaced the battery after 6 years of maintenance-free service. The plates inside were shattered and swimming in the electrolyte, when connected to a battery analyzer it read 189 CCA (New battery read 590 despite the label saying 320), had a SOH of 14% when I swapped it - despite the readings, it still managed to start the car with no complaints. Impressive performance for a battery made in India. 10/10 recommend, would buy again. Part # : Amaron ESL-GO-0BH55D23L Total cost : 30,400LKR exclusive of used battery trade in. 27,000LKR If the old battery is returned. Back in 2019 the cost was 16,000 LKR with the trade in of the old battery. Installed it myself because why not

I've got both, you shouldn't keep the jump starter in the trunk if you park the car in the sun more than 6 hours. The owners manual of my jump starter warns not to store it in an environment where the temperature exceeds 60 degrees (celcius). As for the tire inflator get one without an inbuilt battery - those plug into the cigarette lighter socket. You can keep it in the car as long as you want regardless of where you park. Stick to branded stuff for reliability. My first generic jump starter lasted 2 years (2019-2021) and was used exactly 2 times before it crapped out and refused to charge. My second one is a 70mai I bought in 2021, still works fine as the day I bought it - I've even started 24V systems with it despite the users manual warns not to (battery terminal started smoking lol) I've got a 70mai tyre inflator I keep in the house and a Baseus "mini" inflator I keep in the car, 70mai one I bought in 2021 and the Baseus 2023 (because the 70mai one is too bulky) both still work just fine, no complaints on my behalf.

Yup! I bought mine from Daraz. Eh? AFAIK 39044 is equivalent to 1500-2000 grit, quite soft. IDK how coarse B-cut is

WD40 won't "cut it", you need a professional cut and polish or you can use some 3M rubbing compound (39044) and elbow grease.

6 year update! Got the battery tested - SOH is at 14%. What do you guys think, time to replace? The car still starts up okay.

Wonder which highway will take me to Malaysia. Hmm. 🤔

Congratulations! Wishing you many happy and safe kilometers ahead 😊

I thought Mexico is LHD - how come they have RHD FK6s there 🤔

You're in for a treat with the FK6 if you think a Vitz at 140kmph is stable 😁

Go for the XL if you're getting this, seems that the L is a bit too tight.

Nope but it has good reviews, 4.7/5 rating from 573 ratings. Seems everyone who bought it is very happy with it.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_oCsHkIV

@Noobdriver And get the timing belt inspected too. If the car is between 60K-80K mileage get it replaced for your peace of mind (The previous owner might have done it already so check beforehand)

Well at least the timing belt didn't fail on you so that's something... right? right? If you're serious about calling it quits I'd suggest you to consider upgrading to a 1.5L, that one doesn't seem to be as "fragile" as the 1.0L (maybe because it's manufactured in Japan? IDK) you'll get to keep everything you love about the Civic and hopefully it'll hold up better than this one did. Or would it be possible to upgrade to a 11th gen?

I have this Both cars use the same timing belt part #.

I've a thing for aggressive front ends when it comes to cars 😍 Hopefully you'll soon have a chance to stretch her legs a little bit and give her a workout, away from the hustle and bustle - you can't appreciate the driving dynamics of a car trying to squeeze through rush hour traffic after all. One or two "aggressive" runs in the Civic and you'll realize how tame the Vitz was 😅

Well I think you ironed out the worst kinks off the Vitz but the decision to go for a Civic will make your inner car nut shine brighter than a Vitz ever could, MMW Looking forward to a thread/blog dedicated to your new FK6, don't forget to post some pics too 😎 Onward to new adventures!

Did you say FK6? That's quite the upgrade from the Vitz! Congratulations! And a fitting end to the Vitz saga too, all's well that ends well 🙂