varotone
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Everything posted by varotone
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Many say that when you repair a puncture by plugging, there is more damage done than the puncture itself. When using the rasp to smooth out, it makes the hole bigger, damages the steel belts and finally when it is plugged it distorts the structure of the tire. Maybe the old method of removing the tire from the rim and fixing from the inside is better. But the new method is very easy, quick and maintains the tire pressure. Anyway, tires being consumables, why worry too much about how the puncture is repaired if it gets the job done?
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Buy a tubeless tyre puncture repair kit. Available at Sri Lankan online retailers and some supermarkets for about Rs. 500. Look at a YouTube video on how to use it. Try it on an old tyre. Keep the repair kit and a pair of pliers in the car. It is a very reliable fix. Usually, you don't have to remove the tyre. Jack up and rotate the tyre to see the puncture. Fix it and pump air. Quicker than fixing the spare wheel. Cheaper than the repair cartridge that you have to pump in and drive a certain distance at a certain speed!
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If your wife is driving, better avoid the nano. Panda with power steering would be better. Nano being discontinued is one more reason to avoid it. https://www.bloomberg.com/opinion/articles/2018-07-11/rip-nano-india-s-car-market-is-no-place-for-cheap-thrills For a 'car' that's almost a failure with a short production run and now discontinued, availability of parts is questionable. Also keep in mind that ladies can drive stick. I know one who learnt to drive auto was given a chance to drive a j70 Prado. She loved it. But didn't love it enough to go through the hassles of updating her driving license.
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Why have you narrowed it down to panda and nano? And why automatic? If you are happy with an older one, there are plenty of options that will easily beat your choice in terms of parts availability (except body panels and the like) and rider comfort. Look for a well maintained one and will give the panda a run for it's money. Only downside is when you are selling it. But given that the car is already depreciated when you buy it, you want loose much. Consumables for common old vehicles are very easy to find and cheap. Most engines are pretty darn reliable. But my understanding is that older auto gearboxes are not very reliable.
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Hello gentlemen, I'm looking for some small piece of rubber that looks like a o-ring with a groove inside. (Not an automotive part) The cross section looks like a c. Here's a drawing of the product.where can I find some thing similar? Because this one was damaged, I want to buy a few of these. About 10 pieces. Thanks in advance Varotone
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I couldn't remember if signing in the presence of a company representative is necessary. The registered owner can sign the power of attorney even when abroad. (I'm not sure if a document signed in one one jurisdiction is valid in another. But once such a power of attorney was accepted for a property matter) Also, the leasing company has a signed MTA form which they will return when the lease is settled.
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Lease companies do give the CR to the bearer of a letter signed by the registered owner. One leasing company had a letter template requesting that CR and the letter to DMT to erase absolute ownership to be collected by a specified third party. (Such as the new owner of the vehicle) Better ask from the company itself. Remember the registered owner has to sign the letter. If the company is willing to accept such a letter, ask the seller to get a letter signed and posted to him.
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I'm stuck at connecting the fuel lines. On either sides there are two small tank thingies - fuel vapor separators. Each has 3 connections. But in the right hand side, the rubber grommet has holes for only 2 fuel lines. Confused how to connect these fuel lines. I've made marks with tipp-ex on the fuel lines before I remove them. Now that all the marks are sanded and painted over?. There's a diagram in the workshop manual but it confused me more. Anyone can remember how to connect them?
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Thank you for all the AL members who commented on this thread. (As you might have correctly concluded due to the lack of updates on this thread,) I gave up on buying this. Life took an unexpected turn and had to set my priorities in the right order. Visiting AL after some time, there are several PMs offering to help me with checking this car, verify the authenticity, asking for photos.... You make a lovely community. Thanks again for the help.
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Sadly, I couldn't attend to the project lately. Body work was completed some time ago in my absence. Shiny paint is now under a layer of dust. Soon I'll start assembling the car and post few photos on the progress.
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Thanks to everyone who weighed in on the topic. I understand that no one in their right minds is going to shell out this much for a bit of badge, stickers, body kit, and the like. But this being the last few of a fantastic lineup makes it a unique car to own. It would be more sensible to go for a new WRX STI than the last link of the Evo lineup.
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1. I didn't ask yet. Importing this in 2016 and keeping it unregistered for this long bothers me too. I'll ask the seller when I go to inspect the car. There's a higher chance of detecting a lie when you talk face to face rather than over the phone. (There could be a genuine reason. Or he has rehearsed a lie for 3 years!) 2,3. Some car sales guy in southern Colombo suburbs imported it and it's still with him. You know the kind of guy that I have to deal with 4,5. I'm going to inspect it this weekend. As shown in the photo, it is the 706th car. I have to do a background check on this after looking at the documents. Since the model is fairly new, It'll be fairly easy to establish provenance. 6. Is it photographed at a finance company yard? (I can't recognize the place). There were many advertisements on the quick site from the same advertiser: L8 finance. A sales rep answered the call and said that the vehicle is at a car sale and the finance company is doing advertising these vehicles and willing finance the vehicles sold by the particular car sale. There were many similar advertisements. Still, if someone can confirm that the car was sitting in a finance yard, I will dig deeper in to how it ended up there.
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I learned that it came with Enkei wheels with Mitsu logo, but for some reason it has BBS on. Owner has not swapped them. I'm not seeing black carpets with red stitching. ?
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Stumbled upon this Lancer Evo X final edition while going through some random posts here on AL. Now itching to buy this. Gentlemen here saved me once from making a impulse purchase before. Here I'm asking for advice again. Here's the deal. Lancer Evo X final edition. Cleared. Unregistered. Odo 2k when imported. 7k now. At a car sale. Looks genuine (very low possibility of someone swapping the transmission, repainting, forging the document.... ) Asking 17 mil. Expecting your comments on the purchase. Obviously this is not value for money. I could buy a ordinary Evo X, and tune it to make it even better than this. But given this is a limited edition, is this a sensible purchase? More concerned after the rumors about resurrection of the Evo.
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Thanks for the suggestion. I deepened the grooves on the existing adjusting mechanism. Instead of filling the worn grooves and cutting I just deepened the existing ones and filled the opposite side so that the thickness of the metal remains unchanged in the end. I hope this will last a little longer than filling the worn side. At least till I find parts from a box. Do I need to buy the whole rear brake assembly or just the adjuster mechanism that fits on to the brake shoes?
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My rear brakes self adjusting mechanism is worn out. I remember this being discussed before in this forum. However, I couldn't find it now. Please share how to fix this. Is there a permanent fix for this?
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CE#T is good for an Indian bus, lorry, batta and three-wheelers. Rubber is quite hard and does not absorb absorb shock. Puts much strain on suspension components and wears them quickly. The CE#T tyres last longer. (Because they are hard?) It's the economical option if you want to beat the crap out of a commercial vehicle. Because ride comfort is non-existent in a batta, I don't have any issues with CE#T on it. But I would warn you against using them in a car.
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Does anybody know a good place to restore a BMW E30?
varotone replied to ticky's topic in Feedback & Suggestions
If you are going to restore from ground up, your expectations are too high for any garage. (At least that's my experience) how good a place depends on the mechanic, tinkerer, painter, and your scrutiny. Unless they are beemer fanboys, they won't fuss about every tiny bit of the car. Any worker would do his bit of work well. But making sure everything is put together nicely and neatly is your job. I would suggest you to do it at your home. Those who work at your place have lower charges. If you don't have the time to get involved, choose a garage. Find someone who is a classic/beemer lover. You could expect honest work. It's nerve wracking to get some of the workers do what you want. Like removing wires without cutting, prying trims without damaging, aligning stuff when fixing..... etc. I'm learning this the hard way May be it's only me and my OCD making things difficult. -
1. SAE or metric depending on your vehicle. Isn't it? 1/2 would be the best in my opinion. 2. Doesn't it depend on the torque range you need? There are digital torque meters with a range from 8-500Nm. Looks versatile. I don't have one to test the accuracy. Also, is there any place that hires torque wrench? I'm planning to invest on one. A set of quality torque wrench costs a fortune.
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Gasket removing scraper Set of feeler gauges Vernier calipers Valve spring compressor Set of copper bristle wire brushes Paint brushes (1/4") Spill free funnel Metal file Piston ring expander Pliers - nose, circlip compressing, Gear puller/harmonic balancer (OBD Scanner, dwell angle monitor, compression gauge, timing light. Not diy tools per se) Measuring ruler, marker, ziplock bags, paper and pen, sticker, a camera come in handy for any DIY job.
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Project Moggie - Body & Electrical work
varotone commented on kusumsiri's blog entry in Project Moggie
It doesn't have a headlight relay right? And the rated power for headlights is 35/50W? Maybe the sealed beams are of a higher power. Might be the reason for blown fuse. I suggest you add a relay. Even the 35/50 would be brighter with the relay due to the decreased voltage drop. You can even upgrade to brighter lights later. When you repair the wire harness route the wires through flexi tubing. Electrical wiring shops have something called flexi / flexi tubing. A corrugated flexible PVC tube. Get some black color heavy-duty ones and run the wires through it. Added protection from rodents and elements. Looks neat too. Especially useful for exposed wires in the engine bay. I just finished repairing all the wires in my project car. Assembled everything as it would be on the car with all the switches, lights and motors, and made sure all worked. Used the flexi also. Unfortunately I don't have photos of the whole setup on my phone. Alternator is a worthy upgrade. Clean the gunk off the voltage regulator and attach some wires to keep the looks! Cheers Varotone -
Project Moggie - Body & Electrical work
varotone commented on kusumsiri's blog entry in Project Moggie
May I suggest removing all the wires while tinkering is going on. If wires can't pass through the holes in the firewall because the connectors are larger than the holes, remove the connectors. Note how wires are connected and remove all of them. Once it is outside, you can thoroughly inspect the wires for damages and fix it. It's easier to fix the wiring when it's taken out. Regarding the damaged voltage regulator, how about upgrading to an electronic one? They stabilizer voltage better than the electromagnetic ones and don't need adjusting regularly. Just my two cents. -
Project Moggie - Body & Electrical work
varotone commented on kusumsiri's blog entry in Project Moggie
Wow! That's a lot of work. Do you do your own tinkering? So once you cut out the chassis bar how do you prevent the roof from warping? The B pillar is not supported at the bottom, so doesn't the weight of the roof warp the structure? -
MITSUBISHI RE 72826 A THERMO RELAY Finally figured out the wiring for this. I've hastily drawn the wiring diagram on MS paint. This thermo-relay uses a Mitsubishi M51202 IC OPamp as a voltage comparator to compare the potential difference between the NTC resistor used as a sensor and a rheostat used to set the temperature. If the potential difference across the NTC resistor is higher than the potential difference across the rheostat, the AC relay is energized by the output voltage. Here are the wiring diagrams, pinouts, and schematics for the IC. In my case, the unit was faulty due to a blown Zenner. Replacing it solved the issue. Looks like Mitsu L200 and L300 has the same unit.
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