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When you and Matroska are given the clues for the 1st and the last names and it was a game over for me 😂

Think more exotic...

when a bike manufacturer makes a car

Typed out my guess a few days back and forgot to post it xD, was still thinking that I did The Maserati MC12? Though I’m fairly sure there aren’t any in SL Used to be one of my fav cars when I played NFS Shift on my dad’s Nokia N8, brings back a lot of memories

That is some serious level Seppuku

Are we talking about Honda? 🤣

Well....no one knows for certain what the Nissan Renault partnership is at or is headed (Renault does hold 100% ownership of some of Nissan's assets....). As for the Nissan-Mitsu-Honda...the talks failed earlier this year as Nissan didn't like the plans for the holding company (basically didn't want Nissan to be a subsidiary but its own company with Honda footing the bills) and Honda was turned off by the then-CEO (when in reality they just wanted Mitsubishi). With the new CEO on board the current plans seem to be more on restructuring Nissan's internals before heading into any merger with anyone (giving off extra production capacity to other manufacturers - of cars and components, shutting down plants - which for now seems to bring to an end the Vanette and potentially the AD van, sell/lease out Nissan HQ, etc..). But yeah..the Micra is the outcome of the Nissan-Renault alliance. Thanks to the alliance Mitsubishi revived the Grandis name badge after like nearly a decade. Sadly the Grandis is now a rebadged Renault Symbioz. They really didn't even try to make it look different.

That’s right! There’s a new electric hatchback out too, and at least in terms of design, they managed to stay faithful to the original while reimagining it, looks pretty rad Over to ya @john cooper

Yeah...supposedly 62 or something in total when you include the test and race cars.

Yes, this is the MC12 It's a brother to the Ferrari Enzo from another mother, and found out that the MC 12 only has 50 road legal units @Duan27 Your turn mate

But it is !!!! It is wider than the widest prancing horse though. Interestingly, it is built on a horse chassis. Last year the manufacturer revealed a special model to commemorate this car's 20th anniessary.

Ran the query through GPT just for fun 😬 Below is what usually happens on a 2013-2020 “GM6” platform Honda City/Grace and how it fits your symptoms. ---------------------------------------------------- 1. Can a worn inner CV joint make a knock when you hit a pothole? ---------------------------------------------------- • Inner (in-board) CV joints typically knock or clunk when torque reverses – for example the moment you get on/off the throttle or shift from Drive to Reverse. • They are almost silent on pure vertical impact loads such as a pothole hit; the joint is not changing angle and the tripod rollers stay centred. • A bad INNER joint therefore **rarely produces a “pothole knock.”** • An OUTER joint can “rattle” on bumps if the cage is badly worn, but it is accompanied by the classic metallic clicking on tight turns – which you have not reported. Conclusion: replacing axles is unlikely to solve a noise heard only when the wheel travels up/down over road damage. ---------------------------------------------------- 2. What is common on the 2016 Grace and where else to look? ---------------------------------------------------- After 100 000 km the parts you already renewed are indeed the usual culprits, but this platform still has a few spots that mechanics overlook: 1. Strut top nut or bearing plate – The new struts come with an M14 shaft nut that must be run down with an impact gun *after* the car is sitting on its wheels. If that nut is even ¼ turn loose, the shaft jumps inside the mount every time the wheel drops, making a single “tok”. 2. Upper spring isolator (rubber seat) – Re-used isolators compress and the spring can re-index in the pocket when the strut extends suddenly. You feel it as a sharp knock through the floor pan. 3. Stabiliser (sway-bar) D-bush brackets on the sub-frame – New polyurethane or “555” aftermarket bushes are slightly narrower than OEM. The brackets bottom on the stops before they squeeze the bar, leaving clearance that only appears when the bar is unloaded (wheel in the air). Grease the bar, bolt up, then pry the bar up/down by hand; if it clicks, insert 0.5 mm shims or fit genuine bushes. 4. Steering rack mounting bolts / EPS rack guide adjuster – The electric rack is isolated by two aluminium/composite bushes. If the through-bolts were not torqued to 64 N·m or the guide screw preload was not set, the rack shifts in the cradle over bumps and the sound travels up the column. Have someone kick a tyre while you watch the rack; any visible fore-and-aft movement is wrong. 5. Front sub-frame locating dowels – During the suspension job the sub-frame may have been dropped. If the two taper dowels were not re-aligned, the sub-frame can “pop” against the body on sharp impacts. Loosen the four main bolts, jiggle the frame, then torque to spec (74 N·m) starting with the rear pair. 6. Brake pad or caliper bracket play – New slide pins won’t cure a knock if the pad backing plates are slightly undersize. Fit anti-rattle shims or new OEM pads. 7. Engine mount (torque rod) – The small horizontal mount at the rear of the engine lets the power-train rock into the firewall on rebound. Its failure is common on hybrid Grace/City because Auto-Stop starts the engine every few seconds. Look for cracked rubber or shiny witness marks on the bracket. Is it “common”? Owners on Thai, Indian and Sri-Lankan forums report exactly this “one sharp knock on potholes” at 70–120 k km; the fixes most often reported successful are: • Retorquing the strut top nuts / replacing the top bearings. • Changing the sway-bar D-bushes with genuine parts. • Packing the steering rack guide or replacing the rear engine mount. ---------------------------------------------------- Practical next steps (no extra parts thrown): 1. With the wheels on the ground, put a socket on the strut shaft nut and give it 1/8 turn – if it moves, test-drive. 2. Pry the sway-bar up/down at the D-bush; if it clicks, shim or replace bushes. 3. Have a helper kick the left wheel while you look at the rack; retorque mount bolts. 4. Jack one wheel, grab the drive shaft near the inner joint and shake up/down – a bad inner joint will “thunk” even without rotation. If it is quiet, the CVs are innocent. Only if step 4 clearly shows play should you spend money on new axles.

nice to see the clue was very well taken @john cooper wanna have a go ?

That notched line on the C-pillar tells it all

According to several sources the make is supposedly registered as Ferrari

Replaced the battery after 6 years of maintenance-free service. The plates inside were shattered and swimming in the electrolyte, when connected to a battery analyzer it read 189 CCA (New battery read 590 despite the label saying 320), had a SOH of 14% when I swapped it - despite the readings, it still managed to start the car with no complaints. Impressive performance for a battery made in India. 10/10 recommend, would buy again. Part # : Amaron ESL-GO-0BH55D23L Total cost : 30,400LKR exclusive of used battery trade in. 27,000LKR If the old battery is returned. Back in 2019 the cost was 16,000 LKR with the trade in of the old battery. Installed it myself because why not

Greetings Gentlemen, been a while, still at it!