Davy

From your picture, it's difficult to say from where the oil is leaking. It could be from the top of the engine and pouring down. So you need to find the exact source of the leak to determine if this is going to be a simple fix or a major repair. My guess is that the oil is leaking from the engine cover packing and pouring down. If that is the case, the repair is pretty simple.

He probably doesn't even know the actual car that is underneath all this plastic.

Two stickers... where are you planning on pasting them?

The grille has come out nicely! Well done Komi! Supra might have to clear his browsing history. Probably an old file with the same path as Jaliya's signature being pulled up by the browser.

Will do machan. By the way, check your mail.

lol. But hey, only local stuff on this thread mate. This should go into Post Whoring.

Damn!

How much did they quote you for the discs? Mine cost about 8000 back in 2010. I had to spend a little more to refurbish the brakes (get the disks resurfaced etc.) Yes, I agree The Don. Even the KE50 had front discs if I remember correctly. The Lancer A72 however came with disc brakes only on the SL 5 forward models and of course the 1600 GSR.

Yeah, they've got four buildings there as far as I know. Everyone's there. It's bigger than ever! I loved that car park, I remember trying to do slaloms in my old Lancer around the pillars in the car park. Stress relief when we had to work late nights.

Yes, the only location in SL is at Orion City. As for the TVs, Yes I think there are a couple but I highly doubt it displays employee statistics. Last time I checked, they displayed info about their process and info about outstanding individuals and their achievements (kind of like testimonies). They are very discrete about employee performance and are strict on keeping individual information confidential.

Virtusa. I resigned in 2011. I was right then!

Wait... we worked for the same company?

That car looks very familiar (cause of the rims and the colour). A guy at office had one that looks exactly like that and I don't see it in our car park anymore.

Firstly, a wheel alignment place will not be able to provide you with a correct diagnosis of the problem IMO. Ideally they should be able to, but most wheel alignment places in the country just deal with... well... wheel alignment. Most of them wouldn't be able to tell you if its a suspension issue or something to do with CV joints or drive shafts (or bearings for that matter). My advice for you is to go to a good workshop and get the car checked out. Secondly, normally the sound heard from a worn out wheel bearing is not the kind of sound you've described. The bearings will give you a deep roaring sound (let's just say a "grrrrrrrrrr" sound to make it clear for you). Plus, the sound from a worn out wheel bearing will be heard always (mostly at high speeds) and not just when cornering (as you have explained). As for a good place to get this diagnosed, try this thread: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15974-good-mechanics-technicians-workshops/ Do a search, I remember someone sharing info about a honda-specific mechanic somewhere in Malabe (short drive for you).

Here we go again: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16112-noise-from-drive-side-wheel/ As I said before, they never learn.

http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/8403-brake-caliper-painting/ Plus, your question is totally unrelated to this thread.

Adv@nce C@r Audi0 does it, but they'll charge you the price of a new set of alloys. Three weeks ago when I was there, one of the guys who work there got a call from a guy who has a 2012 Merc C180 and he quoted 32,000 to restore his scratched alloys.

http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/4668-local-tyre-agents/ Not sure about Cooper and Cobra (unavailable in the above thread too).

The brakes on the A72 might be one of the things I had to spend most of my time on, back when I had mine. I had quite a number of other friends who owned A72s and were going through a tough time trying to solve them. I was finally able to solve mine and bring the brakes back to their original level. This is what I tried: 1. Replace brake shoes The Don is right, using poor quality brake shoes is a direct contributor to poor braking. Buy a set of good brake pads (preferably Japanese) and see if that makes a difference. This I guess is one of the cheapest things to try out. Although the shoes on your car are new, the brand might be a problem here. 2. Resurface the drums If the drums still have a good thickness in them, you might want to consider getting them resurfaced. This is sure to boost up braking power. Re-filling the brake drums is a huge "no" IMO because you'd be heating up the drum to do so and the steel could get more worn out due to the heat. How exactly did you re-fill the drums? Did you get a sleeve soldered? I had an idea to get a set of sleeves soldered to fill the drums, but my mechanic advised against it and told me to try and find a good set of drums. And that's what I did. 3. Replace the REAR drums Try to find a good set of drums. This is one of the things that ultimately worked for me. My front brakes were better compared to the rear ones and I know by experience tht it's the rear brakes that fail. 4. Go for a disk conversion In my case, I was lucky enough to find a good set of used A72 front disks. I just had to get them reconditioned, the rotors resurfaced and they were just plug and play. This will definitely improve the brakes considerably. 5. Install a servo At one point, I installed a servo that came with some of the A72s. The servo installation was also plug and play although I had to modify the brake pedals and stuff (which was okay). When I installed the servo, I had drums all round so the car still dragged a bit when brakes were applied although the effort needed to stop the car was significantly less. If you're going for a servo, then I'd recommend you go for front disks as well. I wanted the car to be original, so after installing disks, I removed the servo and installed a brand new master pump. The brakes were perfect after that. In summary, I suggest that you try the small ones first (like change the pads, get the drums re-surfaced etc.). Since you have re-filled the drums, I would suggest that you go for a new set of drums altogether. Re-filling is just making things worse IMO. The metal used to fill the drum probably cannot stand the heat, and doesnt grip properly when the mechanism is hot. Also, give a thorough inspection accross the entire braking system covering all brake lines. A bent/dented brake line also could be a reason for poor braking. If your brake oil is old, flush everything out with new oil. Once you are absolutely sure that these are taken care of, you can move on to severe measures. Apart from the above steps, you can also go for a brake kit (both front and rear) from a Lancer Box (as I might have mentioned on this thread earlier). It's a perfect match for the A72 and a guaranteed solution. I must also say that I haven't mention the things I tried that didn't work at all. I tried filling the handbrake self-adjusting mechanism, tried soldering it in place to prevent it from snapping, used slave cylinders from a L200, used spacers between the brake pads and the slave cylinder pistons (to bring the shoes closer to the drum). I even remember driving with the hand brake pulled slightly because the brake pedal would sink due to worn out drums. Anyway, I hope I gave you some pointers to what you can try.

If it's just an hour or so, you really don't have to worry about it.

Since you are hearing engine noise, could it be that the mechanics did not install (or improperly installed) the rubber boot on the steering shaft which is located at the firewall? To take off the steering rack, they would have had to remove this boot. Even the smallest opening on the firewall can lead to engine noise being heard inside the car.

If there is no air leak, I guess there is nothing for you to worry about. But if the tyre was sitting flat for a long time, you might want to re-check whether the tyre has suffered damage due to the weight of the vehicle. What's the car anyway? For your last question: If the tyre being used is one that is compatible with the rim, then it should ideally sit properly on the rim. The two "pop" sounds during pressurization of a newly installed tyre is the general indication which says that the tyre was seated on the rim. If you actually think about it, there is no chance that the tyre can go out of alignment because the air inside uniformly applies pressure all round, bringing the tyre to the correct position on the rim.

What exactly is the issue? Poor braking power?

You're right. Saw 'em on my phone and I assumed they were Evo X fenders as soon as I saw the air vents. The "blown up" fenders on the Evo is actually one of the reasons why it looks much wider than the Lancer when seen from the front.