Davy
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Everything posted by Davy
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So is it correct to assume that the "gurgling sound" was in fact pre-ignition?
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Good stuff Sampath! Glad to see her get a new lease of life with the right parts. More happy that you didn't go down the path of using an engine from a Japanese car. Since you have invested in an original engine for the car with the greatest difficulty, why not use a new timing belt as kush has said above? At least get it thoroughly checked before installation. I personally would get it replaced for peace of mind. The pulleys on the old engine would have caused the belt to wear out in a certain way, so the belt might not sit perfectly on the pulleys. Highly unlikely, but just pointing it out the possibility. Also, this once again shows how amazing our community is. We have great members on the forum who would go the extra mile for others. I myself now personally know many members on the forum because we have helped each other out in good and difficult times. Kudos @The Don. Wish you were more active here. Good luck with the project Sampath! Keep this thread posted.- 29 replies
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- volvo s40
- turbo diesel
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Congratulations! Good car the SX4. Was Suzuki's Rally car for some time too. To keep things organised, I think it would be better if you can share photos in one of the SX4 threads. Maybe this one. Once you've shared, just drop a link here to that post.
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Or worse, used regular ATF on the CVT box. So yeah.
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You can tell if it's a CVT or not based on how the RPM moves with the speed of the car. It behaves differently to a conventional auto. The needle rises and stays in one point while the speed of the car keeps increasing. Did you take it for a test drive? If it's a guy trying to make a profit out of the car by doing a "sale paint" job, I doubt he even knows if the car is actually a CVT or not. As for minor things like remote not working, door lock not working, those things can be easily repaired. It's a 10 year old car after all. Plus, you can bargain and get the seller to lower the price even further. When I got mine, the antenna was broken (got a genuine one from eBay), the driver's side mirror was not auto folding (got it repaired for 500) and there were a few scratches on the front bumper. Don't let small things like that stop you from buying a good car. Not saying ignore everything, and go for it, but you really must learn to draw the line appropriately by weighing the positives and negatives. Anyway, you saw it personally, so I'm just going to give you the benefit of the doubt. If it's as bad as you say it is, then well... poor Demio. Being a fully loaded one too.
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People have the tendency to replace engine mounts using aftermarket ones which may not be as durable as genuine ones. Especially for a gel mount which is bound to be expensive at the agent and other genuine part dealers. I wonder if this is the reason for the vibration to recur so soon.
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That's a fully loaded Demio and I bet it has CVT as well. It'll be gone soon because the price seems to be quite okay too. It has the optional spoiler as well. I'll not comment on the colour because that's actually a personal preference. I personally wouldn't mind it.
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This is a six year old topic mate. Please be mindful when responding to old topics.
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If they disconnected the battery before the tune up, it could be that the ECU was reset and is still learning. How many Kms have you used the car since the tune up? Usually the system learns within about 20 Km depending on how the car was driven. So if it's only been a few Kms, put a few more and see if it solves the issue. If not, it's probably due to the idle air control valve sticking. Some mechanics have a habit of spraying throttle body cleaner directly on IACVs and some units go bad as a result. You just need to properly clean the IACV using a clean rag dampened with TB cleaner and making sure the motor operates normally without sticking. I wouldn't assume it's the ECU without even checking the above and performing many other tests to eliminate other causes.
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During a brake fluid flush, the new brake fluid is added, and the system is bled until the old fluid is flushed out of the system together with a bit of new fluid as well. So you don't have to worry about them mixing. Besides, DOT3 and DOT4 can be safely mixed and I'm sure it doesn't cause any damage to the system.
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Get your engine mounts inspected.
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I wonder if OP is referring to pre ignition sound as "gurgling sound". While in complete agreement with all responses above which seem to have lead to the discovery of a possible head gasket leak, OP might be referring to pre ignition because the sound is heard when shifting gears at a "lower RPM". So, in addition to the questions asked by @Rumesh88 above, I have the following. This is just to eliminate the possibility of pre ignition being described as "gurgling sound". 1. Does this mean you can control the sound being heard if you shift at a higher RPM than normal? 2. Can you replicate the sound when the car is stationary and when in neutral while the engine has reached operating temperature? If it's actually related to a gasket leak, I assume it should still be heard whereas pre-ignition sound is mostly heard under load.
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Was a brake or clutch repair done recently? Does your car accelerate normally when the engine is cold? You can search the forum/internet to find methods of checking for a possible worn out clutch, yourself, without taking apart anything. Example. If the above test doesn't reveal anything, I think you first need to bleed the system out to see if the problem was due to air trapped in the system, causing the clutch to slip. When this happened, did it feel like the car struggled to accelerate?
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4x114.3
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It's called a "wide angle mirror" or a "blind spot mirror". I guess the name speaks for itself. You can try eBay.
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Could be that the radiator cooling fans aren't working. Start the car, switch on the AC and wait until the temperature gauge reaches mid point. After a couple of minutes, you should see the fan(s) start to work. Not sure about the Swift, but on some cars, the fan(s) start to work as soon as the AC is switched on, regardless of whether the engine is warm or not. If the fans(s) is/are not working, it could be due to a faulty fan or the fan control module.
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If you read this thread from the beginning, you will find a link to the English manual.
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Welcome! Please search the forum. This has been discussed before.
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Search the forum.
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lol It looks like you have edited the original post of the thread. Your original question was asking about customer statistics of popular car washes in the country for a research project you are conducting. Just stating this here because members who read the thread will otherwise think that we're bashing you for no reason. Personally, I agree with Crosswind's sentiments about your original question and even about the current one. There simply aren't any shortcuts to research. I too think it would be more productive visiting the car washing places and obtaining the details from the actual companies. Those stats will be far more reliable and qualify as actual field work and research when comparing to listening to peoples' responses on a forum. If you want stats from a car owner's perspective, the best is to create an online questionnaire and spread the link around. If that were the case, I'm sure members here also would respond. Just have a proper mechanism, and don't expect others to do your work.
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No offence but isn't this something you should do yourself without having an online forum hand over you all the statistics on a platter? Plus, what makes you think the members here have all the information? Get off your butt and walk around. That's what we did when we were studying. Edit: Too late. @Crosswind beat me to it! Glad I wasn't the only one thinking this way.
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Yes, it could be a problem with the hydraulic system as others have said above. From experience, I have my money on the slave cylinder. The CS clutch slave cylinder is a sealed unit which houses the release mechanism and the bearing in it. So it has to be replaced if found to be faulty. Back when I did mine (2011), the part cost about Rs.18,000 at the agent. Also, the clutch slave cylinder of the CS is known to give trouble when the mileage reaches 100,000 km, so when the clutch is replaced, the slave cylinder is also replaced with it to prevent having to remove the transmission again. Maybe the agent didn't replace it because the car had only done 52,000 km. I wonder how the clutch failed so early.
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If it has a cable, then it could be because one or more metal wires of the cable have snapped and jammed inside the casing. First check if there's something obstructing the accelerator pedal by inspecting the area and manually pushing the pedal all the way down with your hand. Then inspect how the cable goes to the throttle body/carburettor and check if there are sharp bends and damages in the cable. If you can't find anything with the pedal and cable, unhook the cable from the engine side and try gently stepping on the accelerator to see if you still feel excessive friction. If you do, spray some WD-40 into the cable housing and keep pulling the cable from either end alternatively so that it lubricates the entire cable. You can use some machine oil or engine oil as a substitute. If the cable is loose and slides easily, it might be that the carburettor/throttle body hinges need lubrication. If not, it might be the acceleration hinges or the cable itself is damaged internally. It will have to be taken out, inspected and replaced if necessary.
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Can't really comment on the issue without actually hearing the sound. Are you sure you're not holding the key in the "start" position for too long, causing the motor to spin even after the engine has fired up? Also, that Demio is overpriced even by Sri Lankan standards. 3.1 million!
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No, I don't remember hearing such sound. Maybe on ones where the gel engine mount has gone bad?
