Davy

Your ECU probably had both error codes because both the MAF and Crankshaft Position Sensor errors gave errors at different times, but the mechanic didn't clear the ECU error log after the MAF sensor wires were secured. The mechanic should have cleared the ECU error log. To get to know if the Crankshaft Position Sensor is faulty, the ECU error log should now be cleared and the car should be used to see if the Check Engine light pops up again. A bit of warning though, a failing Crankshaft Position Sensor can cause the engine to stall (and sometimes not start again immediately). This is because a failed sensor will cause the ignition system to fail. No spark = no combustion. Get the mechanic to inspect the wires that go into the Crankshaft Position Sensor connector to see if it has come loose like the MAF connector. If all of the above steps still result in a Check Engine light to come on again, the sensor should be replaced. You should be able to find a reconditioned one for cheap.

Welcome to the forum!It's highly unlikely that OP's problem is related to a faulty ignition coil. Sure, ignition coils fail, but I don't think it's fair to say that it's the source of "all" problems.

It could also be rats that have chewed off the condenser fan wires. You don't need to take your car to Stafford IMO. There are enough and more competent AC mechanics out there.

Check if your cooling fans are working. Pop the hood, start the car and switch on the AC. Inspect the operation of the fan(s). They should turn on and off periodically with the AC compressor. Edit: Just saw TwinTurbo's response above explaining the same thing. Sorry for reiterating.

Have your front suspension inspected. It could be from worn out suspension bushing to tie rod ends to rack ends. If you feel the vibration through the steering wheel, it's likely that your rack ends (possibly among other links) are worn out. How bad is it depends on how long you've used/planning to use the car with the noise. If it started developing recently, you should be able to get away with replacing the worn out links, whereas if you use the car for months with the issue, the excessive play in the suspension might damage your steering rack, requiring you to repair or even replace it. I believe most of the suspension components of the Curz are interchangeable with the Suzuki Swift and Ignis, so parts should be easy to find and reasonably priced. Genuines will naturally cost you more.

The first step is to look for loose or disconnected vacuum lines around the throttle body and valve cover. Carefully look around and make sure all lines are secured properly. If you find at least one loose or disconnected line, that was probably it and your noise should go away once it's plugged back in. If that's not the issue, get someone to start the car and step lightly on the throttle to prevent the engine from stalling (the car is stalling probably because the ECU is still learning), while you disconnect the air filter assembly. Once the air filter is out, you should be able to tell if the hissing sound is coming from inside the throttle body itself.

You mean a hissing noise like an air leak? Does the car idle and drive normally? If you can, try taking off the air intake ducts all the way upto the throttle body, so that it makes it easier to locate the source of the noise. If the noise can be heard only from the air intake opening, it might be something in the throttle body itself that is messed up.

Pretty sure he does only Mitsubishi.

If adding power to weight ratios into the equation aren't enough, then surely the engine hp levels alone have to be far below sufficient to arrive at the conclusion. What I highlighted in your first post is that simply considering the engine output and saying "The car X has an engine with p1 horsepower. Car Y has an engine with p2 horsepower (where p1 > p2), therefore X car is faster than Y" isn't always correct. The Prius is faster off the line than the Allion - no doubt about that. But the figures presented to arrive at that conclusion in the previous post doesn't tell which car is faster.

We're comparing cars here, not engines or hybrid motors. Horsepower (hp) is measured at the crankshaft. So with the obvious differences between the Allion and the Prius (such as weight, which I'm assuming is higher in the Prius), assuming that one car has better acceleration or torque than the other car, purely based on the power of the engine/motor is wrong. Power to weight ratio is important. Wikipedia doesn't always give us all the answers we need.

Sounds like your fresh air vent is stuck open. Does your car have an automatic AC (climate control)? EDIT: As for the blower motor noise, you will have to get the blower motor chamber cleaned up and the debris removed. The burning smell inside the car could still be due to the fresh air vent being open. Have you tried running the AC in re-circulation mode?

Welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about the accident. We already have many threads that talk about paint shops in Sri Lanka. Toyota Lanka is not actually the only place you can get this repaired at. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16661-painting-at-mr-paint/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15815-good-tinkering-and-paint-garage-in-colombo/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/16738-good-place-to-do-a-touch-up-paint-job/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/11083-good-place-for-paint-my-car/ Follow the guidelines here to search the forum.

No, it's not recommended. But if you're asking if you can drive the car like this for a while, then probably* - if you're prepared to replace the pressure plate also as part of the repair, because the worn out bearing will damage the diaphragm springs of the pressure plate, rendering the pressure plate unusable. If you attend to the problem now, you might be able to save the pressure plate. Having said that, if your car has a hydraulic clutch (I'm not sure about the AE 110, I'm guessing it's hydraulic), you might run the risk of damaging the clutch slave cylinder which will cause the clutch to fail totally. If the clutch and brake share a common hydraulic reservoir, then your brakes could also fail. So the bottom line is, the more you delay the repair, the more expensive (and risky) it is going to be. *All of the above is assuming that this noise is due to a worn out release bearing

Since you say that this happened after one of the drive shafts were replaced, it could be that the groves on the ABS reluctor ring on the new axle is filled with grease or grime, or it could be that the reluctor ring itself is damaged. Both scenarios will result in the ABS wheel speed sensor sending a wrong signal to the ABS computer, resulting in a ABS indicator. You can do a few self-checks before taking the car to the garage: 1. Check the CV joint at the wheel end and observe if there is any grease t hat is splattered as a result of a poorly tightened CV boot clamp. 2. Carefully inspect the ABS reluctor ring for groves that are filled in or teeth that are damaged. The reluctor ring is located right behind the brake disc. 3. Check if the ABS sensor is not covered in grease or grime. According to my memory, the ABS sensor on the CS Lancer can be seen from the reverse side of the disc as well. If you see any grease splatter, first check if a CV boot is leaking grease (when using a recon axle, it's best to replace all CV boot clamps). If it is, you should get that sorted out. If there is grease and grime on the reluctor ring, clean it with a brush and see if that causes the ABS light to go off. If this doesn't solve your issue, take your car to a good garage for a proper diagnosis. EDIT: Just to help you locate the reluctor ring on your car, it should be in the location indicated by the green arrow in the image below. Note that the brakes in the image are drum brakes. yours has discs at the front. Hope this helps.

Should be: site:forum.autolanka.com Honda Insight

Search the forum.

Yes, it's quite possible for the sound to change when the clutch assembly heats up.

Very nice! Sorry to hear about the mechs messing with the wiring. A similar thing happened to me. I gave the guy an earful, and stripped the car myself. A common issue with our garages I guess.

Most probably a worn out clutch release bearing. Take your car to a good mechanic to confirm. If it's revealed that it's the bearing that's making the noise, it needs to be replaced. Get your clutch and pressure plate inspected while you're at it.

Please read the bold text in your own reply. This is exactly what I have been saying from the start. With that, I rest my case.

If the discs are the original ones that came with the car, they might have developed "hot spots" that causes the discs to wear unevenly. Resurfacing only provides a short term solution in such cases, so your discs might need replacing. Before replacing the discs, the front hubs and callipers need to be inspected for misalignment. Drums too can wear out unevenly, but not as easily as discs according to my experience. If it's the drums that are responsible for the judder, it is most likely due to a crack. My two cents.

Wrong thread iRage!

Deleted.

Can you elaborate what you mean by "irregular" here? Does the car pull to one side? Does the brake pedal sink to the floor or pulsate?

Hi Udayanga, I assume you have not understood my response in your previous thread about your GP5. You may have also noticed that no one has bothered to answer any of your recent questions. This is because we expect members to search the forum before asking questions. Most of what you have asked in this thread also have been answered before. In fact, we have a whole thread dedicated for Tyre Prices (could have been used to ask your first question) and another one for Local Tyre Agents (answers your second question). If you look at your own collection of threads you've created during just the last 3 months, they're mostly duplicated content. So please... Search the forum. Your question about tyre size also will be answered when you do (Example: this post). Thanks!