Davy

Tried this when the engine is cold (and running) and there is absolutely no change in RPM when the ICV connecter is removed. Drove for about 10 minutes with the ICV disconnected and the engine RPM went higher and higher with time and reached about 1800 without AC. As for the ICV being a weak component of MItsubishi, I couldn't agree more. I've been driving with a sticky ICV for the last year or so despite it working most of the time. On random occasions, the car's idle would jump to 2000 or so as soon as I start it (even while warm). This is mainly why I wanted to clean the system. I am on the lookout for a replacement ICV. If I'm lucky, I should be able to get my hands on one today. Will keep you posted. Thanks again for your input. Much appreciated.

Rs. 20 is not bad IMO. However, I hope he realizes that he's doing illegal business. But then again, downloading for personal viewing also violates copyright laws, and everyone does it. On a different but related note, I think sharing torrent links here can get the forum also into trouble. I think this thread should be used purely for the purpose MasterDon created it which is to discuss and share what good movies are out there. Just my 2 cents.

To answer your question, this is my idle after about 10 minutes of continuous engine operation. Very erratic as you will see. Note that his is without the AC on. It's impossible to keep the engine running with the AC on now. http://vimeo.com/90721314 Further, I searched and got hold of the engine workshop manual for the fuel system and it has detaild info on how to check the ICV. I have mentioned in one of my posts about a difference in a sound coming from near the throttle body after the ignition is switched on. And that is actually part of the test to verify if the ICV is activated. In my case the operation sound can be heard but its different. So I'm guessing that the activation circuit and ECU are fine but it's something to do with the ICV itself.

The Don, Understood about the wax on the throttle body. I guess there is no way of knowing if the wax is in place because it obviously is in a sealed chamber. However, I read on another forum specific to the Lancer CS that the water supply is simply to warm up the idle servo mechanism so that the intake air heats up much quicker and to allow the idle RPM to drop to a stable level much faster. Apparently this is intended for cold countries mostly. I think you're making a valuable point here because when I checked with UniMo about the ICV, they said that it comes with the entire mechanism (the chamber with the water lines with the ICV mounted on to it). Another forum post also confirmed that there is infact a "thermostat" inside the chamber where the water lines are fed into. Unfortunately, this particular part costs Rs. 39,850 at the agents when I called them up yesterday to check. I did a search for the part number, but was unable to find it on eBay. I will do further searching. The ICV can be bought down from eBay from Rs. 7000 (Chinese aftermarket) to Rs. 14,000 (genuine, brand new). I'll do a bit of searching at spare parts shops to find the entire mechanism. I also read in the workshop manual that placing the throttle body gasket incorrectly is a direct cause of poor idle RPM. I think I will take off the throttle body again and inspect everything one last time to just to make sure that everything is in place. As I mentioned before, I was unable to take off the four screws that unmounts the ICV chamber. I will try again to see if I can get that off as well. Right now, the car is at home without being used. It's impossible to drive because the engine stalls as soon as I let go of the throttle. It's worse when it's cold and the cold idle is as low as when the car heats up. The idle doesn't stay in one place either, it moves randomly from 500 - 1000 or so. It is when it comes down to 500 or so that the engine cuts off. Thanks for the input guys. Much appreciated!

First, use water sandpaper of 1200 - 2000 grit or to cut away the top layer of paint. Have water constantly running on the paint as you sand. Be really gentle. The paint will start to look dull after this step. Next, use 3M rubbing compound to bring back the shine. Finally, apply a wax (3M, Turtlewax etc.) according to the instructions on the packaging. This will only work if the damage is at the top of the paint layer (clear coat). You'll have to consider a respray as The Don has mentioned if the paint is also burnt.

1. Don't Panic I've undergone many stalls (one that resulted in a fire as well) and I know that the situation can get really ugly within a matter of seconds. Especially if the vehicle stalls on the middle of a busy road at rush hour for example. If the car stalls, you need to understand that it's not the end of the world. Take it easy, cars break down all the time regardless of whether they are brand new or very old. So don't panic. If you're alone in the car keep telling yourself that it's gonna be alright. 2. Use the Hazard switch Regardless of whether your car stalled for 5 seconds or 10 minutes, or simply because you let go of the clutch to soon, just let others know that you KNOW that you're not moving and that your're not moving because of a legitimate fault. Some morons honk their horns repeatedly as soon as the amber comes on before a green light and they should see your vehicle perfectly if the hazard is switched on. Sri Lankans have a habit of using the hazard lights to indicate that they are going streight at a four way junction which in my opinion is showing the world that they are illeterate and retarded. So, use the hazard switch if the first attempt to restart the car fails. This will undoubtedly help you with adhering to the first one above (staying calm) because you know that others know that you're in trouble. 3. Try to start her up Switch off all components inside the car (audio, video, GPS, AC especially) to take the load off the battery and start the vehicle as if you would normally start it up. Don't pump the throttle unnecessarily as it would flood the caruburetor if your vehicle has one. If the engine is not cranking, then you should move to the next step. If the engine cranks but fails to start, try using the choke if the car has one. Try holding the ignition for a little longer than normal. If the car still doesn't start, move on to the next step. Don't spend too much time trying to start the car, you'll end up draining the battery and you will be an inconvenience to the drivers behind you despite the hazard lights. 4. Move the vehicle onto the side of the road Don't be ashamed to ask someone to help you out. We live in a country where people rush to help others in distress, so if you're alone, call someone to help you push the car. If you're on a road that goes downhill, you might be able to simply maneuver it to the side of the road on your own. 5. Pop the hood and have a look inside / Call for assistance If you know a thing or two about what's going on under the hood of your car, pop it open and have a look around. Your car needs three basic things (primarily) to get it started - air, fuel and ignition. I'm not going to go deep on how to examine each part but checking the plug wires, battery terminals, fuses etc. might help you isolate an obvious issue that might be preventing the car from starting. Also, having a toolkit in my car has saved me more than just a couple of times. If all efforts fail, call for assistance.

Knowing how "smart" our politicians are, I wouldn't be surprised even if the front number plate was totally different to what's on the rear.

Thanks for the reply The Don. I used carb cleaner on the ICV simply because I have seen many mechanics and garages use carb cleaner on it. Unfortunately, I guess the damage is done now if what you said is correct. As for the wax you have mentioned, is it inside the ICV actuator assembly or the chamber onto which the ICV is mounted on the throttle body? The ICV itself is just a brushless motor as I have found and does not contain any wax. The clip below on YouTube shows the inside of the ICV but I am reluctant to take this apart as I read in many forums about people who tried to take this apart and broke the brownish plastic part which makes the ICV unusable. The video below makes it look so easy, but I guess the story is different for a ICV which has been working for over a decade. If you meant that I should clean the ICV chamber on the throttle body, then you might be right. That is the only part in the throttle body that I could not fully get into because of the 4 screws which were really tight. I will give it a try again and get back to you. The chamber onto which the ICV connects on the TB is as follows: This is the ICV before being cleaned: I replaced the throttle position sensor today with the one that was already on the car and did a reset as Rumesh explained. The situation is still the same. :S The car sometimes stalls when it idles without AC. The car is generally underpowered now and a random miss also happens when driving at a moderate speed. One observation: Before all this, when the ignition is turned on, there was a slight "pssst" sound from the TB area and now it's turned into a "click click click click....... click click". I asked someone to turn the ignition on and tried to inspect where the click was coming from but was unable to locate the source.

I did not try that Rumesh. Sorry for my ignorance but is that a safe way of resetting the TPS? Also, I assumed that the ECU would have anyway been reset because I did all the above work with the battery disconnected. The TPS socket can easily be removed as it's in a place where it can be easily accessed. So I guess it should not be a big issue. If the problem persists, I might try switching back to the TPS that was on the car before the cleanup.

Hey guys, sorry for asking a question on a DIY thread, but there are so many threads on the subject and this looked like the best one to ask this. So I took apart the throttle body during the weekend and gave it a thorough cleanup. I basically took the entire throttle body out of the car, cleaned out the old gasket and took off the Throttle Position Sensor and the Idle Control Valve. Used a lot of carb cleaner on the throttle body and the ICV and cleaned the unit up and installed it. During the process, I had the battery disconnected. After installing the throttle body back in, I ensured that the vacuum lines, water lines (there are two water lines coming to the ICV chamber) and connectors are properly secured. Started her up and she was idling perfectly at 800 RPM. I took the car for a spin to make sure that everything was working fine and gave it some high revs (4000 - 5000 RPM or so) as well during the test run. After about 5 minutes of driving, the car bogged down and died with a really low idle (500 RPM). I switched off the AC and then the car manages to stay at 800 RPM, but as soon as the AC comes on, the RPM drops really low and dies. Happened a couple of times and I went back home, removed the ICV valve anc cleaned it again and put it back in. It was perfect again after that. The engine idle RPM was 800 and the ICV managed to sort things out even when the AC kicks in. On the next day, I started the car up and she started up fine but the RPM went all the way up to like 1500 and stayed there (even when the engine is warm). When I switched on the AC, the RPM came down to 800. I couldn't attend to the issue on that particular day cause I was busy all day and just started the car up again and tested at night and the RPM was again at 800 without AC and stalled when the AC came on - with a bit of struggle and vibrating on about 500RPM. Looked around for loose connections and vacuume lines, but I couldn't find any. Looking for some inputs from you guys before I remove the throttle body again. What should I be looking for here? Blocked vacuum line? Other pointers that might be helpful: - I had a spare throttle position sensor at home (which was working) and I installed it after the cleanup and removed the one that was already on the car. No reason, the TPS that was on the car was a recon one while the one at home (now mounted) is the genuine one that came with the car. The recon TPS was working fine too. - The RPM sometimes fluctuates randomly between 800 and 1500. Sometimes goes up/down when I switch on headlights as well. - I noticed that the intake manifold is covered in carbon on the inside. - Injectors underwent an ultrasonic cleanup about a week ago (hence why I decided to clean the throttle body). - On the test run, when the car stalled, the Check engine light came on and disappered when the car was started again. Never came back on again after I cleaned the ICV for the second time. - The chamber onto which the ICV mounts is held on to the TB with four screws and can be taken off. It is to this chamber that the IN and OUT water lines are connected. The mounting screws were so damn tight I couldn't remove this part, so I sprayed carb cleaner through the hole onto which the ICV was mounted. Thanks in advance.

It was the same with me and trinity also. He tends to forget that you told him that you'll be there in 10 minutes to collect something. I had to wait half an hour until the guy turned up with my spoiler. Just keep bugging him and he'll remember you. That's what I did.

Thanks and I'm glad to hear that the spoiler landed on the hands of a CS1 owner. I've seen many FB14s and even a AE100 with CS spoilers which should ideally be on Lancers. As for your question with regard to the gaskets... Well I was the first to pick the spoiler from this dude and my spoiler never came with any of the mounting bits and the gaskets, which is why I had trinity order them for me (and himself, cause he thought he'd need them too). I didn't know that it came with the installation kit and I'm sure the guy has the installation kit lying around somewhere in his shop, but I didn't bother cause I had the original gaskets.

Damn!

Observing the amount of dedication, patience and craftsmanship you've put into this, I can say you're one hell of a talented dude. Your attention to detail is just out of the ordinary and the work is so clean up to the extent where you can even keep the BBQ in the living room as another peice of furniture. Well done mate! PS: Please post a few more pictures of the finished BBQ.

+1. I got mine from the Watte near BMC and they quoted 15,000 initially for the disks. After about half an hour of bargaining, I got the price down to 8000. I promised them I'd buy a steering box from them in the future as part of bargaining. I went there so many times to get various things for the car and on the last few times they were like "onna ohey keeyak hari denna mahaththaya." I bought some stuff from a place in Wadduwa as well (MARY MOTORS if I can remember correctly). A scrap yard on the sea side of Galle Road as you enter the Wadduwa town. Got myself a set of rear drums, dial plates etc. Good to have a look if you happen to pass by. Not sure if the place is still there though. There's another yard between Ambepussa and Alawwa and there are KE20, KE50, KE70, A72, Sunny B211 and so many old car parts there including body panels. Just gotta do a bit of looking I'd say. Don't be in a hurry and put in a set of disks that will ruin the car.

Yeah, most of them had drum brakes all round. Only a few models (like the SL 5 forward) came with disks at the front.

Oho! Nice! I'm guessing the paint job is new? Just my taste but I would have kept the originally chrome bits intact, like the headlamp rims and the bumpers.

LOL. The fellow is seated on the edge of the seat (towards the right) and he had two mobile phones on the seat. In the pic I've shared, he's reaching for one. They kept ringing alternatively like every 2 minutes or so. His vegetables should already be half gone by now anyway 'cause of all that radiation.

That's a nice plan you've got. Good luck with the project! Awaiting your thread. By the way, the second link is broken.

Why don't you start a thread on your restoration? Rather than sharing your progress on multiple threads, I think everyone would like to see the progress you've made thus far and the obstacles (such as sourcing the brakes for example) you've had to tackle. I for one would love to see another A72 being restored!

Woah, so they quoted 38k just for the calipers, the shields and the mounting knuckles? Just keep looking around (especially in places outside Colombo), you will find a good set of disk brakes for cheap. Great set of rotors those Brembos. If I were you, I'd wait until I find the brakes before purchasing the rotors from eBay.

LOL. No machan, that's a Bajalto.

That's insane! I got my disks from Panchi for 8000 a pair (rotors, calipers and the whole kit) in 2010. Spent about 4000 more on the bearings and to get the rotors resurfaced. If you can't get it for a price below 15,000 or so, it's not really worth it IMO. As for compatible parts from other cars... you can hunt for ones that came for the Lancer Box. They're pretty much the same thing.

No wonder you can't find anything on the forum. Please read carefully.

And the green RX3! Love that car!