Davy

Yup, I second Watchman's suggestion. Photobucket all the way.

I wouldn't call what you did stupid, cause some people don't even know what a Check Engine indicator is. Got a call from a friend of mine recently saying that there is an "orange box-like bulb" on the dashboard and what he should be doing. I think you get the picture. Anyway, Looking around the engine was all good and you definitely would have noticed if it was something obvious like a loose connector or a disconnected vacuum hose. What I would have done differently is disconnect the battery because it would have been good if you got to know what actually caused the indicator to come on. You're lucky the error was just a one time thing, maybe the ECU got an incorrect reading from one of the sensors or maybe there was a one time ignition failure or something. Tightening the connectors and leads would have ensured connectivity. About your second question, my opinion is that you really need to know what the actual cause is. Since the indicator itself is a very vague way of letting you know tha there is something wrong, I know that I'd lose a lot of sleep over thinking why the light came on. So the best thing is to just get it diagnosed (easy for you now since you have an OBD scanner) if a visual inspection doesn't cut it. Is it safe to drive to the nearest garage... depends on why the indicator is on. While the car is perfectly driveable for some errors (the fuel cap being loose for example), the car completely dies in some cases. My car started to stall once and it could not be started until the engine was left to cool down for about 30 minutes. The indicator disappears after the engine is cooled down and would operate normally again for a few minutes/hours. Stalled over 4 times on my way to the mech and it was a nightmare driving while knowing the car would die on you the next second. Turned out to be the Cam Position Sensor. So how safe depends on why the indicator is on.

ROFLOL. Owner must be smoking some serious stuff to have come up with that kind of design!

The check engine light is a general indicator to let you know that there is something wrong with either one or more inputs to the ECU. To get to know the actual issue, you should run a diagnostic scan as Watchman already mentioned. The diagnostic scanner will show error codes which can be directly translated to what component has failed/lost connection. Even if the check engine light appears intermittently, the car's ECU stores the most recent set of errors reported until they are cleared. So even if the check engine light goes off, I suggest you still run a diagnostic to get to know what went wrong and take precautions of the same issue coming forward in the future.

For the millionth time... CS1 => 1.3L CS2 => 1.5L CS3 => 1.6L So if you're looking for a CS with a 1.6L engine, you have to be looking for a CS3 and not a CS1.

Damn, just look at that FACE!

Crosswind is right, the CS1 does have a 4G13 engine and it is pretty hardy if maintained properly. I could give you the following pointers as well: 1. Insist on the service records and check when the timing belt has been changed. If it has not been changed within the past 100,000km, you will need to change it ASAP. 2. Since the mileage is comparatively high, look for signs of major body repairs. This goes for any car but you should lift the floor carpet of the trunk and check the rear area. The trunk upholstery can be lifted by unscrewing a plastic bolt that is just near the back of the tail light - if you want to be really thorough. 3. Start the car up and take out the oil dipstick and check for excessive smoke. While the engine is still cool and running, open the radiator cap and check if you can spot any traces of oil on the coolant. If the car was maintained and driven properly, these will all be good. 4. Check the clutch. Take her for a spin and see if the clutch is biting at an acceptable place within pedal traversal. If it bites too high on the pedal, the clutch might be worn. You're looking at about a Rs. 50,000 repair there if using genuine parts. Is this a pre-facelift CS1 with a carburetor engine? Judging by the price of the car, it does sound like a pre-facelift (2001 - 2003).

Woah, that's quite a bit of rust. sure like to see how your tinker tackles this one.

I doubt rats took it off because it's fastened to the body by the small plastic bits around it. It probably loosened up gradually after years of travel on bad roads and one day snapped and fell. You should try to get it re-installed as soon as possible because now rats can enter your boot and thereby even inside the car.

My friend (c1nder) says that it takes about a week or so for the parts to land here. I think the packaging contains the thermostat and the thermostat housing gasket as well. I'd like to agree with VVTi and propose that you DIY this. It's pretty easy, one hose clip and two bolts to be exact.

As per the engine workshop manual for the 4G1 engine series, the opening temperature of the thermostat valve is 88 ± 1.5 Celsius and come to a fully opened state at 100 Celsius. The amount of lift should be 8.5mm or higher. If any of the above parameters are not upto spec, the thermostat valve should be replaced. A visual inspection alone will not cut it in my opinion. I'd say go genuine to ensure proper operation. A friend of mine told me that he got down one from amayama.com for about 2600 LKR with just 5USD shipping.

Traffic Racer - This is what I am hooked on these days. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.skgames.trafficracer Simple but awesome graphics, great selection of cars and goals that make you want to keep playing on and on. I played 2 hours at a stretch, just to get the Evo X. One down side is the camera angle - I wish it was a bit lower.

Tried this on my way home yesterday. Responsive and to the dot most of the time. Still tro try it on the Windscreen at night.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2334209/An-emotional-farewell-Police-officers-salute-K-9-goes-final-journey.html

It's not a "silencer" and it's doing it's job as intended.

Although the Athurugiriya interchange is between Kottawa and Kaduwela, the exit and entry points have not yet been constructed. I guess they will be added in a later phase. So this opening will just be a stretch from Kottawa to Kaduwela with no interchanges in the middle.

Great work there Ripper. Admire your thought through planning and attention to detail. So when is the grand opening BBQ?

Plus if ABS is working properly, there wouldn't be any skid marks in the first place.

One possible cause is that the ABS indicator bulb is blown. Replacing the bulb will solve the issue. ABS will still continue to work despite the indicator failure, so you can maybe take the car for a spin and step on the brakes (in a way that you get the wheels to lock) to check if you feel the ABS coming into action.

The two indicators highlighted in red are: 1. The headlight range control indicator (top): This indicates that there is a problem with the headlight range control system which automatically adjusts the angle in which the light is projected on to the road. I'm guessing the "good" wash loosened a connector that is related to the circuit. 2. The check engine light (bottom): This indicates that the ECU has detected that something has gone wrong with either one or more sensors connected to the engine. You can identify what the issue is by doing a diagnostic scan.

Not really an accident, but another one goes up in flames on the Southern Expressway. All 5 passengers (including two children) have made it out without any injuries:

I'm still having trouble understanding what kind of vibration this is. Is this something like the wiper blade jumping on the windscreen as it moves about?

WoW! Congratulations GTAm! That's indeed is stunning! Needs a bit of TLC and it should be more than just Sunday run material.

There are so many valuable cars rotting away all over the country. There is a thread dedicated specifically for them on the forum. Check it our when you are free. Here's the link: http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/5224-abandoned-cars/ So yes, I think valuable cars may very well be left to rot away regardless of their value as there are countless examples in the above thread. I'm glad the GSR is not one of them. If I have some spare time when I visit Kandy, coming over to see the GSR will be the first thing I will do. Thanks for the invite and it is a priviledge to get to see it some day. Even during the restoration process.