The Stig

Guys need your input. The car in question is a n16 facelift 2007 and it belongs to my father in law. The car has had 2 hose failures in recent past on long distance journeys to katharagama and bandarawela. On katharagama it was the top radiator hose and on bandarawela it was a hose linked to the heater core and also had to replace head gasket on the second occasion. Yesterday also a hose linked to the ac core has gone while in Borella. Luckily hl no issue to the head gaskets. I was wondering if there is any pressure buildup inside the water pump or radiator core that's causing this. Do we have any place that we can check the water pressure and blocks here in Sri lanka?

On the subject of Mazdas it will be a little difficult to find a good condition axela for 3.3. I am also on the lookout for one and people who maintain them well seem to be very reluctant to sell or would ask around 3.4-3.6. The demio is a good option if you can live with a hatchback. You can get a 2010 for around 3 million range. Find one with projector headlamps and rpm guage. The only thing you need to be on the lookout are the steering racks, as these are known to give trouble.

Well I thought the lancer was ahead of the civic for a couple of reasons, it has projector headlamps on gls trim with afs. And Rockford fosgate sound system on some cars.

What didn't strike you was the fact that you would be paying almost the cars value in insurance. Road taxes, Massive maintenance bills and huge depreciations that are unheard of in this country.

It's good but slightly firmer than your 121, however the seats have softer padding than the rest so shouldn't be too much of an issue. city ride quality is helped because of the wider wheels and independent rear.

You might want to look at the mazda 3/ axela bk or even a 2011 Bl if you can stretch your budget. I have driven all three plus your old car. (ex 1.6, fd4, bk 1.5, and 121) My personal view is this ; Ride quality low speed city - ex > 121 > Mazda3 = Fd Ride quality outstation - Ex > Mazda 3 = civic > 121 Handling - Mazda 3 > ex = civic > 121 Features - Mazda 3 > lancer > civic Driving pleasure (highly controversial subject ) - Mazda 3 > civic > lancer > 121 Economy - 121 > ex =Mazda 3 >fd

You mean B14 right ? yeah it seems like it since the interior dash structure is from a b14 You put a horse on the front of anything and it becomes a mustang

Love the png name [emoji16]

Dolpin modal market ne, ekai

These 2 cars are like the sun and the moon, not even in the same category. What do you expect from the car ? economy, comfort, driving pleasure ? you need to let us know you requirement.

No didnt try that, ill give it a shot. One thing i have noticed it that the tire looses more pressure when the car is left idle for 1-2 days. I pumped 30psi on Tuesday and checked today and it was at 29 psi.

Well honestly it's not that difficult to get fake "service records" from 3rd parties other than agents. That's why one should always replace critical items such as timing belts, Atf, engine oil, brake fluids etc to be on the safe side.

I guess I will have to do it the hard way. Thinking about going to U&h on the weekend since that is where I bought the tires. @Maxii No the tires are bridgestone. Did you have the issue with all 4 tires?

Guys reviving an old thread since I have a tire leak. I am loosing about 5-6 psi per week on my left front tire. I have tried 3 places arround Kotte but none were able to diagnose any punctures or leaks. Everytime the tire is put in the water barrel there are no bubles coming. What could be the cause? Is there any tire shop equipped with some sort of a high tech solution like a machine other than the water barrel technique?

On most jap vehicles the odometer reading is only stored in the meter cluster, simply swapping the odometer ic or changing the meter cluster gives the ability to change mileage. This is a big oversight by japs, of course they probably didn't expect the types of crooks we have in Sri Lanka. Imagine a poor guy who buys a car and doesn't change timing belts because his odometer has been turned back. There should be a method implemented so that the cr records the odometer reading when a vehicle is sold and carries it forward with every revenue license.

The grace shares a 7 speed dual clutch gb with the fit and vezel. There were reports on the software issue and recalls https://paultan.org/2014/02/11/honda-dct-recall/ However Honda has opted not to use the dct in export models, jazz, city & hrv so there is very limited information available regarding these specific gearboxes even on other sites. In Sri Lanka also there were reports of gearboxes overheating in long runs. Since our experience with dct gearboxes in general is minimal it would be difficult to say if it's how it's suppose to be or of its a fault. I don't know if there is anyone specialized dct transmissions but maybe Stafford can help you out. Better get it checked before any further damage is done.

Excuse me sir, your turbo seem to be attached to an engine https://drivetribe.com/p/PS3xkr3OQHisjx47GP_LlQ?iid=ePWY3PViTUi_Mlf_6Br5zQ

Ok, just checked and it seems to be working.

Usually outer wear is related to underiflation. You sure that you maintained tyre pressure at recommended psi right?

Hi madz, I just can't seem to get the Android app to work after the update. It just force closes on me. Tried reinstalling but still the same.

On a RWD rear and front should wear out almost evenly if you gentle with the throttle, if you are aggressive the rear should wear out faster. As rubber gets older it gets harder and starts to crack, i see some slight shredding on the outside line also. You might want to check out your camber, maybe too much negative camber.

CVT and AT transmissions work in complete different ways when revving the engine. In an AT the rpm rises till redline and then shifts to next gear and rpm falls. In a cvt the rpm rises to redline and never falls. The TCM takes signals from the speed sensor in the gearbox and throttle position sensor and calculates the gear. Technically if you have an AT and if you use a CVT ECU the signal will be to adjust the ratio of the gearbox where in an automatic transmission the actual signal needs to go to the shift solenoid to shift gears. There is no reason why this should work as per my understanding. People like buggati have done vvl conversions to mazdas and it has worked because it was a manual and he didnt need to worry about gear shifts. IMHO if you are keen on vtec you are better off selling the car and buying a VTi version.

Nope it's not unplugged, there is a sponge on that hose. It's the hose to the carcoal cannister.

Seems like an awful lot of trouble for an additional 20hp don't you think?