iRage

Well a quick Google search suggests a 1123 can be from a Throttle Position Sensor or a Coolant Flow Sensor in some vehicles. Does the TownAce have a Coolant Flow Sensor?

How much is a TPS ? If it is not too expensive you might as well change it and see what happens? I suppose it will be difficult to find a sensor temporarily just to check it.

Yes..the RS trim level did not come in an AWD variant. The other trim levels did come with AWD.
Typically, a lot of components between the AWD and FF variants are shared (reduction of production costs). So the meter panel in an AWD very well could be the same as that in a FF variant. It is just that the irrelevant lights, etc..will be disconnected.
The Vezel is a full-time/real-time AWD vehicle. There is no switch to turn on/off the AWD system. The car's ECU decides when the rear wheels should get power. Typically in these types of cars the AWD light on the meter panel is there to light up when there is something wrong with the AWD system. Also, during start up it lights up when the AWD system is getting initialized <some manufacturers provide center and rear diff locks - electronic ones...in those cars the light may turn up when you engage the diff locks>
Now...the unlikely scenario is that someone took an AWD variant and badged and equipped the car to look like a RS. That is too farfetched isn't it <considering the costs and all)?
 

You can't figure out what the trims are based on things like door handle color, etc... for starters, there were special packages the dealers in Japan usually offer that add chrome bits, visors, interior bits, etc..So there is no definitive way to say what the exact door handle type, interior color combo (these too are usually selectable/customizable when buying new), etc...were. On top of that, you are looking at a 20+ year old car, and over its life, owners would have added things, replaced parts, etc...
The BJ series did not come with CVT. Just manual transmission or Automatic transmission. The bottom picture you show is a 4AT with tiptronic called Mazda ActiveMatic. The top picture is of a standard 4AT.
As far as I can remember ActiveMatic (the picture below) came only with the 2.0L petrol engine for the sedan. All other engines came with the standard 4AT for the sedan. I beleive they mixed it up a little bit for the S-Wagon range where the RS might have had ActiveMatic with a 1.5L engine. I am NOT SURE !
Basic trims were as follows:
BJ5P (i.e. with 1500cc engine and 4AT or 5MT)
<facelift> LS RX <later dropped towards end of model> <prefacelift> LS RX GS BJ3P (i.e. 1300cc engine and 4AT or 5MT)
<facelift/prefacelift> ES JS BJEP (i.e. 2000cc diesel with 4AT or 5MT)
Prefacelift only. Because of Japanese emissions regulations for passenger cars diesel sedans were stopped. LS BJHP (i.e. 2000cc petrol with 4AT)
Facelift only Sports20 Later added MazdaSpeed version with 2.0L engine and 5MT  
 

Well...the Civic of the time had the typical Honda issues typical for that time. So yes...it would have had little problems like electrical niggles, etc... people say go for the 2004 because in September 2003 the ES got a facelift. Typically, when a facelift happens, manufacturers also do technical upgrades (this is why when c completely new-platform based car is released one should wait a bit before jumping in and buying one). So Honda would have updated some of the car's original design and resolved some issues in the process.
As for the CVT (i.e. HMMS) concerns...there are two sides to its truth. On one hand this is the first time the CVT was introduced in the Civic and has Honda's early designs of a CVT transmission. So, the CVTs in Hondas of the period were not as robust or as nice as the current-day ones (the same can be said of all the other manufacturers). Secondly, people were new to CVTs, so people used them like traditional ATs and messed them up through really bad maintenance.
The pre-facelift, i.e., the ones you are looking at, had the 1.5L variant, which came with the 5MT, 4AT, and CVT options, while the 1.7 came in 5MT and CVT variants. With the facelift (2004 September onwards), they dropped the 1.5L CVT variant. Personally, I felt that the CVT and the 1.5L engine were not a good match. The car was droney and a bit elastic when accelerating compared to the 5MT and the 4AT, so it was a good move to drop it.
Now....compared to the Corolla 121 the Civic ES. You probably cant find two more different cars within the same segment. The Civic is a far nicer car to drive. It even feels more refined. However, there are some people who would not like the ES' sportier ride feel and prefer the cloudy numbness of the 121.
With the 121, it was a no-nonsense A to B car. 99% of the cars found in SL are the standard boring models (i.e. 1.5L or 1.3L econo boxes). To make things worse, owners over the years have done all kinds of "upgrades" just to try to up-sell their cars. So, you will find a low-trim model (i.e. X) that has been fitted with parts/accessories locally to look like a high-trim (i.e. G grade or Limited Edition) model. So, you cannot trust 99% of the cars to be genuine. Also, since most of these were bought at some point in their life by cheap owners looking for a cheap ride, they have not had proper maintenance (service or repairs). You might have a better chance of finding an honest and cleaner ES. Civics are popular with ricers and wanna-be racers trying to live out their Fast the Furious fantasies. But most ESs seem to have managed to escape from these types of owners. 
You might want to look into the other Japanese options in this segment as well. Namely the Sunny, Lancer and Familia/323 (and Axela/3).
 

Uhh....well..how much does it cost to fix ? Seems like you do not know ?
I would have thought the first thing to do is to go and get a proper quotation to actually fix the car.
Sometimes the damage might look bad to the owner but in reality the damage is not as bad. When you get the actual quote, if what you got is around ~70% or more of what the actual cost is...then you might not get more and the effort to try to appeal it might not be worth it. 

The 260 Premio came only in two red colors.
Pre-facelift came with Blackish Red Mica (color code 3R0)
Facelift came with Dark Red Mica Metallic (3T0)
Maroon and wine red are what car sales people and the owners started calling because they didn't know or just used something to make it sound fancy. Either way...marron and wine red is a lot easier to say than Mica this and Mica that.

Okay...so if your heart is set on a E160 Axio, then you should get that since that is what will make you happy. At the end of the day..it is your car and you are the one who has to care for it and live with it day to day.
Having said that....yes..finding a good Axio is something you have to take very seriously. Being a Corolla and knowing the majority of type of people who bought them...everything from the Hybrid system to any body damage could have been hidden while the car being looked after in the cheapest possible way. But good ones do exist.
Having said that....take the following into consideration about the Axio. Out of ALL the Corolla generations, the E160 Axio is the least refined for its period. This particular Corolla is actually based on the Vitz platform (in fact the Japanese were quite saddened about the model and was embarrassed to call it Japan's car to the world but it sold well in Japan both as a fleet car and a family car for older couples). The interior is very simple. Space is not that much. You will feel it to be a lot smaller than the previous Axio model (in fact it feels small like a E80/E90 series Corolla in terms of space). Because of the lightweight body and the suspension setup, driving long distances is not that comfortable as you feel a lot of road fatigue (I hate to say this but for long distance comfort nothing beats proper Nissan sedans and MPVs with their zero-gravity seats). The Axio 165 is comfortable but the fatigue generating factors like in small cars is there. The steering is quite numb and the acceleration feels slow, so it is very lethargic to drive. Personally, I find it too dangerous for me to drive long distance as it easily bores me to a point of falling asleep.
Now....do you really need a Hybrid ? That depends on the amount of distance you will drive (in city limits and outside of city limits...). Based on how much and how often you drive on the highway compared to city limits, a gasoline car might be as efficient as a Hybrid car. So factoring in any probably Hybrid component replacement that might come up you might be better off with a gasoline car.
Car options would more or less be the typical.
1. (I can't believe I am saying this) Premio/Allion. The newest one you can buy for your budget will be a few years older than the Axio.
2. Mazda 3/Axela (BL series 2008-2013 and BN/BM series from 2013 - 2019). Mazda3 BN/BM series the are brand new cars imported by the agent and might not have the SkyActive engine but still very nice cars. You might find a few BN/BM series Mazda Axelas, i.e. JDM variants, as well)
3. Mitsubishi Lancer EX
and finally 
4. Honda Civic (FD and FB series).
Some off beat choices would be a Bluebird Sylphy, and a Suzuki Ciaz. The models on this list, apart from the Allion/Premio, are typically owned by people who actually cared at least a bit about their cars. So you are most likely to find a car in better condition. The Lacer and the CIvic runthe risk of having had ricer boy owners in the past though.
Where hatches are concerned, again, it is the usual list:
1. Suzuki Swift Sport (or other trim level of a Japanese spec car).
2. Honda Fit
3. Toyota Vits (if and only if it is a 1.3 or above variant...you will seriously contemplate on self harm if you try to drive that 1.0L lazy dog on the highway or outstation on a regular basis).
Finally...your budget would put you in a 2011 - 2015 model car depending on the exact model. However, if you find a good car that is in really really good condition (at a cheaper price too), do not shy away from it. Have seen some really clean Corolla 140 Axios/Fielders, 240 Allions, Camrys (Camries ?) ,RAV4s and Vitaras come up and then sold off in a matter of hours.

It says the (drive) battery cooling parts needs maintenance at the dealer.
So probably your hybrid battery tempreture is higher than usual. The simplest reason this happens is when the air circulation vents to the batteries get clogged (sometimes iwth dirt, sometimes with oversized floot mats) and needs cleaning. When was the last time you serviced the hybrid system ? You can clean the vents by yourself, but following that you might want to get the system serviced. 

Check behind or around the hazard warning liht switch on the center console of the dash....This used to be the case with some other Nissans like the Avenir so that most likely (99% certainty) would be the case with the B15 as well. It is a common relay...the part number was something like 25731-41(somthing, something)
 
 
 

Like I said..behind the hazard warning switch....location E circled in red...

That is not normal...it is hard to hear the exact type of sound form inside the cabin...that could be somethinglike the air ducts leaking or if it a sireny whistle then there is something wrong on the compressor side of the turbo charger..could be that the bearign has gone and the blades are having too much play and or unbalanced or even a bent blade. 
You say the car is under warranty....does that mean that you cannot have anyone else worked on it (without voiding the warranty) ? There are 4x4 and Turbo specialists lke BN who could tell you exactly what is wrong with it...

Sadly not the best of cars....very unrefined and mediocre build quality. A car just having 64,000km (assuming it is accurate) and just 10 years old needing a steering rack repair is a testament to the quality of components. Just like the Maruti 800s and Celries...these cars have rather cheap parts for repairs, but sadly the parts hav very short life spans.
Sadly in the current market you will have to resort to much older Japanese cars (around the early tomid 90s ?). Personally, I do feel that a averagely maintained slightly older Japanese car would be better than the Zen. Don't get me wrong..India does make some good cars...but Marutis (especially from the era you are looking at) are not those.
Yes..it will be hard to find a decent Japanese car that has not been messed around with and is actually good. But I do feel the search will be worth it. Let it be the Zen (or a newer car) or an older car. You say you cannot buy an older car because you know nothing about cars to pick a good one. The same goes for newer and non Japanese cars as well...YOU CANNOT INSPECT AND DECIDE TO BUY IT ON YOUR OWN! You MUST take it to a proper car check place to get a proper inspection done. So at the end of the day it really doesn't matter whether it is a Zen or a Toyota/Nissan.
 
As for your 100,000 budget for repairs...you might be pushing it....remember...trust no one when it comes to buying cars in SL. So be prepared to change the timing belt (if it has a belt), brake pads, suspension bushes etc...no matter what you buy (you can forego things like the timing belt if there are verifiable records...and by verifiable I mean you can call up the agent or someone and see if the repair is logged).
 

You mean that scratch ? Sadly no...the paint has scraped off...so it needs painting. If you try to paint it you are just going ot leave an ugly mark on it. 
What I would say is...wait....get used to driving the car and driving in general...then once your driving ahs improved...get all the dents and scratched fixed up and give the car a good cleaning. If you can't wait because that block patch is driving you crazy...go to Darley road...or any accessories shop anywhere in the country and buy a set of corner reflectors and just paste it on there until you can get it fixed. There are also people who do quick fix up jobs around these areas....you can try one of them but in my experience those solutions are not very good, not very long lasting and sometimes the person sucks that it looks ugly.
The sad reality of car ownership in Sri Lanka is that your car is going to get a lot of scratches and dents thanks to selfish cyclists, tuk tuk drivers, other car drivers, pedestrians...(the list goes on). Everytime such a thing happens you cannot run to a garage to get it fixed..nor can you fix it...nor can you compound (or cut and polish) to take the scratches away (it thins out the paint). So you need to learn to deal with it and plan periodic fix ups after a whole lot of time.  

Of the above vehicles the Civic is the more engaging and all rounder cars to have. Decent performance...decent comfort..decent creature comfort. Only hitch is finding one that is not riced up, but there are quite a few decent ones around.
The Camry is spacious and large and has a very soft and plushy ride. But it is as enjoyable as a sofa sinking in a pool to drive. 
The bluebird G11...well decent and comfortable ride...but personally I feel it to be a bit cheap.
If it was my money I would buy the Civic.

Hmmmm......the issue is for that budget you are looking at really old cars. Reliability of old cars is purely dependent on how well it has been taken care of. With cars within your budget it is hard to say because they are so old. Old Corollas and Laners are solidly built cars but how reliable they are now depends on past ownership/maintenance history. Note I did not mention Sunny because the B14 Sunny is built using superglue and rubber bands...
What you should plan on doing..I believe...is get a E90/E100/E110 series Corolla or something like a CB series Lancer....I believe market price for those go for around 1.2 - 1.6mil. Try to get it for as low as possible..and then with the remainder of your 2mil budget...build the car with proper parts...ancilliaries like alternator, compressors, suspension bushes, shocks, electricals, etc....(for engine blocks of these cars...200,000+ km is nothing as long as it has been taken care of properly...but you are not going to find an honest car in SL). 
I think if you can stretch your budget a little bit more you might be able to find a decent CS series Lancer as well.
Are you looking at Petrol or Diesel ? 

Yes...L048 was the model designation for the LWB 2.3TD. I think 46,47,48,141,146 were long wheel base versions.
Typically there is a G at the end if it is a SUV variant; if not it was usually a van which was a (V)/special vehicle variant. 
Now...the following is just me spilling out what I remember. The combinations were endless and with so many markets there were quite a few codes....but generally in the Japanese market and a few other general export markets:
The segment after the "-" indicated the body and spec variations....
If the first letter was a W it meant it was a Super Wagon, V at the first position signified a Van (...in the japanese market which was referred to as a wagon in export markets...not to be confused with the V at the end of LxxxV), the G at the second or after position was designated for Wide body/fender. A "R" (not at the end) signified 4A/T, F a 4M/T and N a 5 M/T. A standard V at the beginning implied a Metal top which is either a flat roof in case of a 3 door/SWB or a high roof in a LWB. A M indicated a mid-roof (which you are referring to as flat roof). T at some position for Turbo. L or R at the end signified a LHD or a RHD.  In the Japanese market they had a J, X or a D to indicate a grade. For some models J referred to GL and in some JX and the X indicated a XL and D indicated DX.
I have no idea what your VGJ code is....the Japanese market unit did not have a VGJ code. If one was to use the Japanese coding scheme it would mean your vehicle was N/A, was in a market that had only one type of transmission, was a Wagon (or in Japan a Van), came in a wide body configuration (in some markets this also meant that it had the wide track but not necessarily the wide body) and was a GL grade. Since the M is not there it might suggest it is not a mid-roof.
Again..the permutations were endless depending on the market....so yeah....
Budding and swapping bodies is illegal (in all parts of the world) for safety and security reasons. If a body has been swapped LEGALLY, there should be letters from the RMV authorizing it and the issuance of a body permit for importing the body (or something of the sort; not entirely sure of all the documents). Basically,the only thing you can swap without prior approval are the body panels (inner frame/chassis needs to be untouched). Even then the body panels have to be a one to one replacement and not change the original design of the vehicle. In SL, people get away without any of these formalities because our guys are too lazy to check the legality of all these and even if they did check they turn a blind eye if "gratitude" is shown.

You are comparing bananas with apples.
The Corolla is an econo sedan designed to give A to BE transportation economically and in fair comfort. The Cefiro is a luxury barge focused on moderate luxury travel from A to B (the performance variants hardly made it to SL).
If fuel economy is a high concern the Cefiro is not for you. If you want a luxurious/cozy ride then the Corolla is not for you.
True, the Cefiro has been prone to issues due to local conditions, but taken care of there really isn't anything catastrophically wrong with the car. Remebmer every car has on the planet has little design niggles. The Corolla E110 might have lesser of those design niggles but that is because the E110 brings in a lot of the old tech from the E100 series Corolla and other Toyotas that are older (so Toyota had plenty of time to fix those because the tech was old).
No matter which car you buy the biggest concern ou should have is if you will be able to find a unit that is honest and in decent condition. Plenty of these cars (both models) are fixed up to look shiny for a quick sale after having lived harsh lives at two different ends of the spectrum. 

Well..if you buy it...congrats ! It will be a fun ride...it seems to be a Sprinter Liftback...
These cars, especially the Sprinter, is best left with subtle mods due to its rarity. I would say just do a restoration and some simple mods like upgrading the suspension and brakes and maybe the engine. 
Two ways to go about it....you can do a complete GT conversion (GT is the Liftback and Hardtop equivelant of the Trueno which only came in Coupe form and just a grade in the E70 and earlier series). This is going ot cost a fortune and hard to do because GTs are hard to come by and when you do its quite pricey.
Second option is what you probably seem to be wanting to do...do a resto-mod. Most of the AE86 aftermarket parts fit the E70....and there are PLENTY of AE86 aftermarket parts. You can go for second hand AE86 parts but those can get as expensive as new parts. Brake parts can be sourced from Starlets to Honda Fits (which actually are cheaper than trying to find actual upgrades for the E70 liftback. 
Body parts for this is going to be hard to find...you will have to get them imported. Its starting to get quite rare in Japan and sometimes you have more luck finding it in Australia than in Japan. If I am not mistaken this had lights from a B11 Sunny or something in the back....
Engine...this is going to be a matter of budget, personal preference and what you plan to do with the car. The 4A-GE is quite an easy conversion if you go with the 16v variants. The 20v variants will be a good choice too but you will have to do some modest modifications to turn the FWD designed engine in to RWD. But many in SL have done it with AE85s that plenty of people know how to do it. The 16v RWD engines are the easiest to put in there as its just a simple drop.
 The 3S-GE will give the most amount of power. So if you want power..sure...but it will require some significant effort to put it in. 
You will need to upgrade the gearbox. The K50 gearbox will not handle it and you will just break it if you try to use it with the new engine. Go for a T50 (for a 4A-GE) or a W5x gearbox for the 3S-GE (or the 4A-GE if you really want to). 
The engines and gearboxes have become quite pricey over the last few years.
Mind you..if you do a proper build of the 3A, the 3A by itself is quite fun in that car....
Personally I find the 4A-GE a good balance for the E70/E80 Corolla/Sprinter. It is peppy enough for the light body to keep the body well planted. For me the 3S-GE ,although feels much more modern than the 4A-GE, is a bit too powerful for what the car is. It does make you want to push the car more but then it does scare you in to thinking that the car is just going twist up to just break off the tarmac. The 4A-GE does make you want to push the car but within limits to what the stock frame can handle. So..engine choice will be a matter of preference. Keep in mind that the model was designed (by default) to handle 70 - 80 hp with not much torque...and then the Trueno/GT variants got a some additional weld points to be able to handle 110ish hp...
You might want to swap the rear-end too...but doing that is a bit tough. You will have to do some mix and matching if you want to come up with a local solution. 

1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Depends...some come with Sterling, some with something else, some with none...these are just 3rd party warranties which the importer of the car can choose to or not chose to get at time of export from Japan.
4. Walk away. You are buying a common car. There are plenty around. 
5. If the dealer is decent and honest and has nothing to hide...he will agree to taking the car there. Some do it on their cost some expect you to pay at least part of it. 
6. Yes. Depending on the agent you might want to consider going to a third party like Car Checks instead.

I think you have misunderstood what a "chassis" is in these cars and underestimating the task at hand. These are unibody cars...therefore, it is not a matter of removing an old body and putting the new body on top of a metal chassis/ladder (like they would do in Land Cruisers and Morris minors and stuff...).
With a unibody car like the RZ-1; what you will have to do is remove the body panels from the RZ-1 leaving just its frame/skeleton.This skeleton would comprise of the roof, side pillars, "engine compartment", floor pan of entire car, rear fender section..in the very least. Then  you have to attach the Sylvia body panels on to the RZ-1 skeleton. They are not going to match up. The proportions are different. Therefore, you will have to weld, cut, make pieces, cut more etc...to make the Sylvia body panels line up properly on to the RZ-1 skeleton. So..even if you don't want to....you are going to end up with a Frankenstein car. 
Unless you are going to keep it FWD, to make it RWD you would need to cut and chop the floor pan of the RZ-1 skeleton. The RZ-1 is FWD and Sylvia RWD, you will have to make a gearbox tunnel and then extend that tunnel to run the rest of the prop shaft Then you might also have to change the floor pan in the back to accommodate the rear diff. 
Again, do a proper resto-mod of the RZ-1 instead of creating a monster. A clean resto mod would be far more valuable than what you are trying to do.

There are two model lines for the standard Alto the passenger line and the business line.
The passenger line’s model is HA36S. The grades for this line up are X,S, L and F (F is the lowest ?).  If I am not mistaken the X,S and L come only with a CVT gear box and the F comes in MT and 5AGS.
The way to figure out the grade is, on the ID plate there will be a code in the model/frame code with the following format
AB(grade letter X/S/L/F)(another letter) - (optional letters for packages)
So a CVT, 2WD L grade will have the code ABLE, CVT, 2WD S will have the code ABSE
The L and F grades don’t have rear head rest and the difference between a L and F is quite minimal.
 
The business line model is HA36V. The V is for “Van” because in Japan these are known as vans.  In that the grade code will be AGP(some letter depicting the transmission/axle). The van has a really poor rear seat. The rear seat has been brought forward to the max so that there is maximum cargo space. As a result an average adult will find it very difficult to sit in the back for more than a few minutes and also getting in and out is also difficult and the back support of the seat is like a cardboard that has been covered with some “stuff”
Business car's rear seat :

L grade passenger vehicle rear seat 

Note how in passenger line of cars the rear seat is positioned back and the support is behind the rear door edge. In the business car line the rear seat is a bit more forward and thin (its a little adjustable but doesn't make much of a difference

96..97..98 ? Which one are you looking for ? 1997 got the facelift which mostly has some body upgrades.  The facelift also got a FF model (before that all models were AWD)...so look out for that...seen a few people (even on AL) buy FF thinking they are AWD !!! The facelift came with the 3S-FE from the older RAV4 as well as a more powerful 3S-GE (if possible et one of these which has 170hp..hard to find though). 
The most desirable variant is the facelifted G grade. It comes with the 3S-GE engine and rear disk brakes plus some goodies.
Things that need to be done:
Change the timing belt....if it has done 200K then its time for a change anyway whilst you are at it the water pump needs to be attended to. Apart from that....look for oil leaks and strange valve knocks, make sure compression is not lost. The engine in the first gen RAV4 is mounted at an angle (it is leaning towards the firewall). As a result the side that is on the front of the car can get starved of oil resulting in drying up the seals and breaking off and starting to have issues with the cylinder walls getting "grinded-out". This will not happen if the car was maintained properly (i.e. oil properly changed and filled).  So depending on the condition you miht have to look in to these soon....but at the very least try to change the oil seals all around.
As with any SUV/Cross-over...check for the wheel hubs....they have a tendency to wear out easily... and look for oil leaks around the rear diff and make sure the rear diff still works properly, listen for grinds, whines, etc...(a lot of people disconnect the rear by taking off the prop shaft in an attempt to "save fuel" but end up screwing up the system). A lot of people misdiagnose the rear diff in these things. People know that the rear has a LSD so they mount it up and spin arear wheel to see if both sides turn in the same direction...and t their surprise it doesn't. The RAV4.1 has a Torsen LSD...so the general test for a mechanical LSD will not apply. If the diff works then the LSD part of it will work....So...depending on the condition this might need to be taken care of.
Suspension components are pretty rugged in these things..however most people only replace the shock absorbers ad the fairly obvious bushes....consider changing things like control arms bushings, linkages, sway bar bushings, etc...usually the operational  life time of these components are anything from 5 to 10 years...so..yeah...personally I would go the original route where things like the entire control arm needs to be bought but for things like control arm bushes you can buy just the bushes and pack it in.
In addition it would be just like any other car...transmission maintenance..body repairs, etc....again..all depends on the condition.
Engine parts, transmission parts and running components (brake pads, filters, etc..) should be easy to find as these were used in quite a few models in SL...okay..some parts for like the 3S-GE engine might not be that easy as walking in to any shop in panchi and buying it..but it will be available. Body parts might require a bit walking around. Most of the components are mechanical so you can find a way to get things to work most of the time.
How reliable ? Well..depends on how well it was taken care of...so none of us can say anything about it. The RAV4 and the 3S series engines are pretty robust. I have seen RAV4s that have done 225,000+MILES on it with nothing but general/running and pre-emptive maintenance. Needless to say, any mechanical device wears out with age and they will need to be taken care of...so if you find a well maintained unit and do all the necessary fixing ups (seal changes, suspension bushing changes, etc...) it will be a relatively good runner. But don't expect it to be a complete "just pump-fuel and run and forget everything else" kind of ownership.
As for the AWD system...its relatively capable...the mechanical system has a full time 50:50 power split (actually it has a small range but generally considered to be 50:50). It will get you through some light to moderate muddy and sandy situations and in most cases quite a lot more capable than the new cross-overs. The rear has a torsen LSD...it is useful on slippery roads but off road it actually means jack squat. The manual transmission variant comes with a center diff lock which is actually quite useful and makes it a bit more capable. So try to get a manual transmission one if you can find one.

Hi Suresh
There are plenty of discussions on the models you have mentioned. Please do a search in the forum.
Finally, any particular reason why you are focusing only on the Toyotas ? Most do so because of resale value and "ease and low cost of maintenance". In reality:
* the Toyotas that you are looking at are somewhat over priced and finding a good unit is easier said than done. 
* if you use good decent parts and take the car to a proper garage the maintenance cost is not that much different between other models
Although I am a hardcore 80s and 90s Toyota fan; even I would suggest you look at a few other options like the Axela and Lancer as well.

For starters...
I think you meant to say 27 lakhs to 33 lakhs.... 27m(illion) to 33m(illion) would mean you can be looking at Mercs and BMWs and stuff...
Secondly, there is no such thing as reconditioned cars anymore. I think what you actually want is an (unregistered) used car from Japan or a brand new car. Used cars you get from Japan are as-is cars. Basically as-is cars are used cars that have been cleaned up and then exported out of Japan, in some cases small repairs may or may not be fixed depending on what the buyer wants. "Reconditioned" cars are something that was around in the 80s when the usual practice was that cars were bought and redone (painted, fixed, parts changed if needed) before exporting out of Japan, after reconditioning the car got that blue circular sticker with a white swastika on ot. This lead to problems of crappy cars being exported so Japan stopped doing it in the late 80s (actually a few Sri lankan auto exporters in Japan at the time were partly responsible for this change) . So in this modern day and age..you don't want to buy a "reconditioned" car. 
Thirdly, and finally, if those are the cars you want then haven't you already answered your question ? The only remaining options are the kei cars from Japan (Wagon R, Alto, etc..). These cars have been discussed quite a lot over the last few days so please go through those threads and ask any specific questions you may have ?

CIF = Cost, Insurance and Freight. It pretty much includes the cost of the item, the cost of insuring the item for shipping and the cost of shipping it self.
Eg. Cost would be the price of the car you buy it at from auction or a car sale in Japan, Freight would be the cost of shipping that vehicle from source to destination (Sri Lanka) and Insurance would be the cost to insure the car for shipment.
You can buy a vehicle from Japan through an agent. If you do so...your cost of bringing down the car to Sri Lanka will be the CIF price; plus on top of that the agent would charge you a percentage (for his work) as a markup/profit or depending on how he operates he might have already kept a small markup/profit for himself in the CIF price he gave you. Plus you would have to pay import duties.
If you walk in to a car showroom in SL and buy a car they will give you a price for the car which would have been calculated after factoring in all of the above (CIF, duty, markup/profit). In these cases the profit/markup that the showroom keeps will be higher than in the first case because the showroom has to account for additional factors such as having to stock the car for some time in the showroom, maintaining the showroom premises, staff, additional services, etc...