harshansenadhir

Check the kick down cable (cable which goes from throttle to the gearbox) also check whether any sensor around the gearbox got loosen during the service.

True, torque converter is there instead of dry clutch in a manual setup. The wet clutch pack or friction plates are inside the gearbox and not necessarily does the job of dry clutch. As how i understood it does a job similar to synchronizers in a manual gearbox. Basically this plate set transfers torque in the main shaft to gears in different occasions without any jerk in simple terms.

Don't know about the japanese rebuild kits. In my case, I had to buy those seperately, the pistons/hubs, solenoids, friction plates and overall packing kit.

Check the cost for re-build and compare with the price of a used one. The term reconditionned can mislead in local context. There aren't any reconditioning happenning here, it's just used japanese junk unloaded and rotting away in yards. well, if I were you, would've took the path of re-building as I'm certain that everything in it is replaced and brand new rather than buying a used one which i don't know what's inside. However, the most easiest way and cost effective would be to ram up a used (not locally used and removed) gearbox.

Nope, it's Mazda Luce or Mazda 1500. Engine was a 1500 straight 4. There are two categories of this model running about in SL roads. The ones bearing 5 sri and 6 sri as Upali Mazda's assembled in SL. The ones with 9 sri 10 sri and 11 sri are reconditionned japanese imports with revised 1.5 l twin carb engine. My father had a japanese imported one, bearing 10 sri 375. Superb car with luxury, comfort and ample power at that time.

Buffing the wheels would be the way forward. Best way is to go to Malay street and drop in to both the main tire dealers in there. Heard them doing a wonderful job with metal (lead/aluminium) loading to cover deep scratches.

Good stuff davy. what's more important in DIY is the preparation with all required tool, planning and execute with lots of patience. All of above were demonstrated very well in this example. Keep it up and keep all of us posted.

I've heard UMC Mazda and even Upali Fiat used locally manufactured steel for certain body panels. (of Oruwala steel corporation) is that true? or was it re-assembling of knocked down kits just like Micro does ? if it's the first, we've actually gone backwards in this sector as 1. no steel moulding is being done in locally assembled vehicles (curved body panels of LATEC and D*MO buses were by Fib#x. Same goes to Colombo rider) 2. Latest car to be claimed manufactured in Sri Lanka, Micro 800 used fiberglass body panels

What torque converter transfers in idle is a fraction of torque what it can transfer in higher RPMs and when coupling is done as I said. You would understand this, if you jack up one of drive wheels in a manual car keeping the gear in neutral position. Still wheel would spin. That doesn't mean proper torque / power transferring to the wheels in the neutral position. Also, torque converter does not operate in different modes depending on the position of the shift lever. Which means, there's no "disengage" of the torque converter takes place when you transfer from D to N as that diagram suggested. Amount of power / torque transmitted by the torque converter is only determined by the 1. Engine speed (speed of the primary turbine inside the torque converter) 2. Hydraulic pressure (created by the oil pump inside the gearbox) since both are very low at idling what it tranmits can be negligeble. Seems you're into more of online content than practical, let me quote following from http://auto.howstuff...r.htm/printable If the engine is turning slowly, such as when the car is idling at a stoplight, the amount of torque passed through the torque converter is very small, so keeping the car still requires only a light pressure on the brake pedal. The part in question is the friction plates set (clutch plates as you mentioned) that does completely a different role than the clutch mechanism of a manual gear car. In simple terms, it enables a smooth engaging of gears during shifts. These plates are many in numbers (the AL4 gearbox which we repaired about a month back had 21 of these). When the gear in D (1st piston presses the clutch plate set and ready to turn the out put shaft) and brakes are applied (out put shaft cannot turn) rather than slipping all these plates, the gearbox input shaft will stop rotating. (this will be allowed within the torque converter in idle speed) If you release the brakes, the output shaft can turn allowing the input shaft (turned by the secondary turbine of the torque converter) using the minimal torque available. So in a nut shell, the power engage / disengage from engine to gearbox in an auto tranny is done by the torque converter. There won't be any slipping of clutches sort of happens (like in clutch balancing on an uphill of a manual tranny) if you shift to D and hold onto brakes. argument sake, let's say the said friction plates (clutch plates) of an auto tranny are subjected to unusual ware 'n tare when in D or any drivable gear position with the brakes applied. If torque converter transmits ample power to let these plates slip and go to a complete mockery, vehicle manufacturers would certainly come up with a mechanism of releasing the piston until the brakes are released, like the auto clutch system you find in Citroen DS. Why there's no such worry is the torque converter does its job of clutch mechanism of a manual tranny. For your information, the wear and tear of the pistons and main shaft is irreversible. During the repair of the very same AL4 gearbox I've mentioned, we had to change all 7 pistons and a main shaft as main shaft was worn out to a level where it leaks oil between the shaft and the rubber seal of the piston. The same set of friction plates could've re-used as whatever the wear 'n tare of the entire set has been divided among 21 plates. But still for all we replaced with brand new set but initial test drives were done with the old set of plates. Set of friction plates can be brought brand new but the main shaft is not an item which is available as a replacement part. So in conclusion, the lesson I learnt is wear 'n tare of the piston and main shaft is costly affair than friction plates.

Waiting time. Usually a red light take around minute or more to turn back into green. Why stressing the entire drivetrain for that long?

how did I miss this. That was one of early (or was it the first one) posts of mine in the old forum. shoot. my writing was horrible in it, 9 years back and wasn't matured enough I guess . Well it could be due to me being biased but if you consider the total number of all Peugeot models (504/505/305/405/406 mainly) imported to SL among other Euro brands, only close one in numbers for Pugs would be Volks. Let me see whether I can find some stats to back this.

I doubt the gear change of this box depends on an input of the speed sensor. If the speed is erratic or shows sudden changes, it could be due to 1. erratic readings of the sensor 2. Loosen connectors of the sensor or gauge cluster 3. Tention of the spring load in the needle (old models) or needle motor (newer models) is got issues. Simplest is to check the connectors (unlikely since issue gets sorted out when you restart the car) and change the speed sensor. If it doesn't gets sort out the issue, best thing is to change the gauge cluster than spending money and time repairing.

Replace the speed sensor in the gearbox

There are two sides of the story of keeping an Automatic in D on red lights. Yes, you're correct on the "clutch plates" which are inside the gearbox. However, when you're on a standstil, the torque converter does not transfer any power towards the gearbox (if your engine speed is in the manufacturer recommended idle speed that is). It only would transfer the maximum engine speed / torque to the gearbox once it completes the coupling. Therefore, keeping in D and stopping on a red light does not cause any unusual wear 'n tare in this clutch plate set. on the other hand, when you frequently shift between N and D, the piston which operates the 1st gear (also the reverse gear) operates back and forth everytime you change from N to D. This can cause an unusual wear 'n tare on the piston (1st and reverse it's the same), Valve body and the valve which operates that piston and also the main shaft inside the gearbox. The pros of shifting into N in a red light the less load on the engine and mounts mainly. The cons would be the unusual ware of the pistons and associated moving parts in the gearbox and valve body. What I personally do is if it's stop 'n go traffic and even if the lights are at the verge of changing say 30 seconds, I stay on the D. If I apporached the light while it's turning into amber / red, then change to N and wait.

It speeds up the initial drying proces, which otherwise would take about 24 hours. Again it depends on the thickness of the clear coat. Learnt a good lesson by trying to press the car to test shock absorbers after 24 hours from a 2k paint job of my white 504. It was an extra thick clear coat my painted sprayed and my both palms were printed on top of the fender. Irrespective of using of the oven, it's always recommended to let the 2k paint dry for about one to two months as final result of the cut 'n polish job would be better if you let it dry for longer. This is the recommendation I've heard from many painters. I think it's something to do with settling down of the paint.

You should be having the demand on the brand what is being used on your vehicle. Can't comment on sikkens as I haven't used it so far. But certainly I can say NO to causeway / sunny, unless otherwise you want a cheap substandard job done.

Thoroughly check the fuel feed circuit. Most vulnerable victims are fuel pump unit including the in-tank filter, petrol filter and injectors. Most probably it could be an issue with the pump.

Beauty of 2K paint is you can spray even in a gloomy weather (not in the night / while raining. This can create white maze of harden moisture on the painted area) and also does get dry quickly. However if it withstood against the finger print test, the basic drying is completed. Yet it's not time to fully test the threshold of it until at least a day passes. Give at least a couple of months time before you do a cut 'n polish job on the painted area.

Don't remove paint upto the bare metal. This way you will remove the zinc (?) protective layer applied on the metal. Also try to remove any spoilt cataloy or potty found coz they will eventually might contribute to spoil the new paint if react badly with 2k thinner which is stronger than ordinary thinner. Don't know much about the best suited primer whether it's oil primer or lacquer primer. As for clear coat goes, I always trusted debeer and dupont

I still didn't get this. Does your car has alloys fixed and them rubbing against the calipers or you bought a set and that has this issue? Best opinion would be to find a proper set of alloys which does not rub against the caliper / would not let tires to rub with fender or mcperson strut. If you want to proceed with the alloys you have in possession (assuming) you can find / make a set of spacers with studs fixed into and mount the wheel onto the studs in the spacer. However, this method ( although being done in any ordinary lathe shop) is not recommended due to possible safety compromising and unnecessary cost involved.

Assume it's got auto tranny. Then we can leave out possibilities like driving in a higher gear in slow speeds. More than pre ignition knock (self igniting), this is due to unusual burning of fuel specially due to heavy load on the engine. This can happen in an auto tranny car due to any abnormal resistance in the drivetrain or engine itself. Check for records of auto gear oil changes of this car. It might not downshifts properly. Also check whether there's any brake binds of any of the wheels. Another cause is engine runs unusually hotter and increases the resistance within itself. Check the cooling system, coolant level (once a friend complained of excessive knocking sound and engine dies. went and checked the car to see there were no coolant left in the system. Temp gauge didn't read anything unusual as there were no coolant to take the reading ), whether auxiliary fans working properly etc. Check oil level and make sure oil has been changed properly ( since you recently bought it). All above is assuming it's a "kata kata" noise comes out from engine. If it's continuous "chara chara " noise even in idle, better check the belts

as far as I can remember the 5 dial gauge does not come with in-built illumination and also unlike the 2 meter speedo guage, it doesn't carry the high beam indicator within. In-fact it uses a bulb pointed towards it from outsite as gauge illumination. However, just try the old school method while trying to translate the wiring manual thing, which can be too complicated.

Congrats S_N and Don and a good chice Madz. Hope you can join hands with Peri in order to make things much more smoother and easier for him

This is the speedo gauge of two meter model isn't it? If so, I'm certain that it's one earth and two (+) ve supply for gauge illuminating light and high beam indicator. Don't have any diagrams but you can do the pin identification using a test lamp. Never short circuit to identify pins.

Many. But not in good / original condition. Lot of them were frankestines with different body parts, maruti head lights etc.