ramishkad
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Everything posted by ramishkad
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When I was travelling between Kandy and Colombo every weekend plus about 30km daily urban travel, I used to do 25000km per year. So it's quite possible. A hybrid battery costs about 5lakhs. I'm sure whoever sold it marketed by saying even if the buyer had to replace the battery the price would still be beneficial for him after the recent tax hikes etc. As I said earlier, I can only comment about the FD3. I havent had any major issues with it after about 4 years of heavy use. My current hybrid battery has around 70000 km on the clock and 3 years of use and I should be able to use it for about 1.5 years from what I understand. So my guess is you shouldn't have any issues if you get a vehicle with a genuine new battery and update the correct software for it. If you are buying a vehicle with a bad battery. reduce the battery cost from the price and do the replacement yourself. Hybrid batteries are there from Rs. 350000 upwards. Getting one from Honda through agents will cost around 5 lakhs. There are also Chinese batteries for around 250000 but I'd stay away from them.
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Yeah it should do 14kmpl given the traffic is flowing. I used to travel from Maharagama to Dematagoda daily on non rush hours and my average was somewhere around 16kmpl as I remember. I really have no idea about the resale market. I wouldn't expect it to be high given the car is a hybrid. If you are getting a Civic, read this thread before buying one :
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Pretty sure this has been discussed before if you search. But here goes. I have only driven the FD3 out of the above three (I own one and been using it since 2013) so i'd just comment on it. Fuel: It won't do 14-15kmpl in city traffic. A realistic figure in Colombo heavy stop and go traffic would be 9-12kmpl. You'd get 13-15 if the traffic is free flowing and you are lucky. For outstation journeys it usually does 16-20kmpl. Highways around 22kmpl. The above figures are when driving WITHOUT fuel consumption in mind. Either way don't expect Aqua level fuel figures from this vehicle. Comfort: Spacious interior, ample leg space and comfortable seats. Nothing to complain here. The driving experience is better than most hybrids I've driven. Reselling value: No idea actually. Never tried to sell it. I've seen them go for various prices ranging from 3.3 million to 4.2 million. Reliability: Check the hybrid battery usable capacity before buying. The only major problem you'd get in this vehicle is premature hybrid battery failure. The car would still run, but would be underpowered. Hybrid battery issues start coming when the car is sat parked for long periods of time. Don't buy the FD3 if you are not a heavy user. It's a good high mile runner. But not a good vehicle to have parked around with little use.
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What is the oil recommended in your manual? No matter what the basses in service stations say, always only use the oil with the viscosity specified in the service manual.
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If you are properly maintaining a Honda, I guess it would still cost you as much as maintaining a Euro. By proper maintenance I mean using genuine spare parts, using Honda approved lubricants and doing the service at regular intervals in a not so shabby service station.
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Toyota Coaster Avurudu track:
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Yes. It would be solved for 4-5 years as long as you replace with a genuine battery and properly update the software for it. My replacement battery has now run for 3+ years and 60000+km without issues. Main cause of battery issues on the civic is having the car parked around for long stretches of time. FD3 is a great high mile runner. But if you are planning to use it just to run couple hundred kms a month, better look for another option.
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I'm using SLT 4G for about a year now and quite pleased with the performance. The speeds are constantly around 30-40mbps and there have only been one downtime so far for the entire year. And I am a heavy user. I actually downloaded 200gb on the day they gave the data free What experience made you feel so negative about SLT?
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Transcend DP220. I meant forward collision warning and lane assist. The FW collision warning tends to give false alarms at long distances and the lane assist will bleep even when you legitimately overtake. I've only enabled these features to activate only when the speed is 100+. Otherwise it's just annoying. The camera has good video quality and GPS but don't buy it just for the collision warning or lane assist.
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2 out of the 3 technologies mentioned in the articles are available in my Dash cam (although imperfect).
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Hi, I've used them for around 30000km since that post. They've fared quite well. I think they still have minimum 5000km more on them. Road noise has not changed much. They are still quieter than my old Dunlops. If you are getting Ecopias, the EP200 is now available in Sri lanka (I could only find EP150 back then). Once this set is worn off, I'd be getting EP200 as well.
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If you really must to the check, pay Stafford Rs. 4000 and ask them to do the IMA/Powertrain checkup. You will see the usable capacity listed in the report. Don't take the car to random places. Take it to a place where they have an up to date Honda Diagnostic System.
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If you are buying the Honda City model with a CVT gearbox, check the state of it before buying. If not well maintained and CVT fluid was not replaced in a timely manner, some City models are notorious for developing the 'Honda Shudder'. As a basic test, put the car in D in a complete stop and floor the accelerator at once. The car should move without any vibration or sound. Other than the City I guess Toyota Corolla AE110, Sprinter CE110 also fit your budget. But be cautious buying these as most of these cars are used and abused for years. Indian cars are also available for that price range but I wonder if you are looking for those.
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If you are talking about the 8th Generation (2006-2011) Civic Hybrid, no it doesn't. It does not have any EV Mode, Power Mode, Eco Mode, etc etc selectors. You just put the car into D and drive (or S if you want a little more oomph). There are times where the car drives only using electric power alone, but those are brief periods and you can't really control that.
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When you said a garage at Malambe, you didn't mean "Honda Upul" by any chance right? Avoid that place at all costs. Either way, you need to scan the system with Honda Diagnostic System (HDS). You can't detect some fault codes with a generic scanner. Is your mechanic using that? I strongly suggest you tell the guys at the garage to stop replacing parts one by one without even having a clue where the fault lies. For most of the issues, HDS gives specific and clear error codes (i.e. P1447 ) which a skilled technician can use to pinpoint the problem. Did you remove the 12v battery terminals and reconnect after 5 mins and check if the problem remains? This clears some of the error codes and resets the IMA system to some extent. (you need to backup your security system codes if you are using the original audio player that came with the car before doing this). If you want, PM me to give you the contact details of my technician. He is in Kandy, however. -
ATF changed every 40000km after I started using it. I am not sure what the interval was when my father was using the car. As for brake pads no that wasn't a typo. I actually am speaking about the last few months I was using the car which is when I noticed this short interval. For some reason brake pads were wearing thin really fast and had to replaced at 10000-15000km intervals. I was climbing down Kadugannawa 4 times a month but I doubt this caused such high wear and tear. In contrast the vehicle I am using right now, I'm using OEM break pads for 88000km and they are still quite good.
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Hi, I can't remember all the repairs I did on the car but I'll try to put down the ones I remember. Had to replace the gearbox with a second hand one around 200000k km. The R gear wouldn't engage properly when starting up in the mornings. Engine overhaul at 150000km. Fixed couple of faults with the ABS system once ABS warning indicator came up had to replace several sensors. It had a problem with brakes where the stopping distance would be greater than normal especially when braking while going downhill. This did not always happen. But I never really could fix this properly. I replaced almost everything in the brakes including the master pump but it was still there when I sold it. I informed the new buyer of this and don't know if he managed to fix it. Replaced front headlights with Xenon lamps as I could not see properly at night with the factory head lamps. Apart from that, routine service at every 5000km. I had to change brake pads at every 10000km or so. Timing belt change at roughly every 100000km. Tire replacement at 25-30000km.
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Our family had this car between 1999-2013 and it was a 65-Diesel model (registered in 1999 so 65- number for your vehicle is possible). The last few years I inherited it and it was technically my first car. It was a great vehicle and I loved it. It had clocked 265000km when I sold it and it wasn't difficult to sell even after that much use so I don't think you need to worry about the second hand market. It's a Toyota after all. When I used it I ran long miles with it, as in for around 1000-1500km per month including Kandy-Colombo up and down trips 4 times a month. Apparently this car does 15kmpl in fuel but I think I got 8-10kmpl on average. I never really measured it and I didn't drive it with fuel in mind either way. Things to note are that we had to overhaul the engine at 150000km (if memory serves correct) which is not that uncommon for a 2C diesel engine as I know. You might also want to check and replace all the radiator hoses. Towards the end mine kept blowing at random times. Check the brakes and for any ABS warning indicators.
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I think there is more to this story than what is shown here. At 0.01 you can see the driver side door of the Aqua closing. Maybe the car driver too said something to the bus. Both the car and the bus seem to be in the wrong lane as well (recording car is in the right turning lane). Either way the bus idiots need to be hanged for their behavior.
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Machan when you inserted those SD cards, did you check the file system on them? Most car players won't recognized the card if they were formatted with NTFS. If they were in any chance NTFS, I'd suggest you see if it works after formatting to FAT32 file system.
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Rivera Resort (Kallady / Batticaloa) - Great Sri lankan cuisine and easily the best crab curry I've had. https://goo.gl/maps/LozjQBVisTt Nandavanam Guest House (Kalkudhah) - Had only one meal here but it was really tasty Sri lankan rice and curry. https://goo.gl/maps/6Jnct9vGzhq
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Last time I used it, the effects lasted more than two months. You have to apply it properly and when it starts to wear off, you need to either re-apply or remove it completely to prevent streaking when wipers are turned on. At least I had to in my case.
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PS4 of course. PS3 is a generation behind and its games library would hardly get new additions.
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Looks like the red truck is no stranger to accidents. Moments before it crashes you can see on his front tinkering marks which im sure was from a previous accident.
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RainX original is not a treatment for acid rain damaged windows. That's a rain repellent solution. RainX is best applied on a clean undamaged windshield and may cause streaking and other painful issues if applied on top of water spots and such. RainX has a product called Xtreme Clean that is a glass and a plastic cleaner. That might work on acid rain spots. I used that to remove RainX original from my windshield (it was difficult to remove once applied). But Xtreme Clean was not available in SL and I had to get it down from US. You can also try claybar-ing the windshield. Google has more info regarding this.
