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Yes, as @sathyajithj99stated you might not be able to find the exact one but try the honda japan website and search their archives for the user manuals, then translate it. Else you can get one for the domestic model HRV which will be in english.

Check at central postmaster mail exchange in colombo with your tracking number. If customs flagged it down you might need to pay some tax depending on their valuation of it. Sometimes the local post office doesnt notify if CME is holding the parcel.

K*een P*rk does NDFOS tint with a 10 year warranty or something... gonna be pricy there but heard they do a good job on most of their paint protectant and stuff. P*tco L#nka and Adv*nce Car A#dio are cheaper options compared to previous but pretty good aftersales service.

im not sure about what ur question is exactly but if your car is idling irregularly then try and get a tuneup, clean the throttle body and check your grounding. If you are getting sluggish acceleration even under lower load you might want to check if you are getting white or darker smoke of any kind from the silencer to ensure you arent running a leaking gasket. If you are in the clear, test your sensors and fuel lines.

not sure about mazda itself but most 2007-8 cars came with UV cut glass, specially japanese ones 2) 3M is expensive for its brand name but most other imported tint brands have simillar or better quality in terms of heat reduction and UV protection. Btw most 3M stuff in SL are not original so id doubt third party 3M tints are any better. 3) Theoretically it depends on how and where you park your car. If the sun always points from the clear side you are gonna still have some heat compared to the darker sides. 4) i did my car tint on my own with taiwanese tint film(yes its not the best brand or quality, i tinted for privacy reasons and not for sun tint), it costed me around 1000 for the film( lighter shade), 250 for the squeege and other equipment(dont use a credit card to squeeze the soap water, it will leave scratches on the tint), but usually local tint shops charge between 2500-3000 for a tint job. Personally if you like to DIY some stuff off your car, Tinting is fun to do and there is plenty of tutorials on the internet on how to do it including how to cut the tint film, how to spray soapy water on the film ends to avoid bubbles and other inconsistencies and stuff... the only hard part is to apply tint for the rear winshield in a sedan cuz u dont want soap water seeping all over your back tray. its a good weekend project if you are ready for it.

yeah most of the so called custom cars are actually cars retrofitted with bullshit mods in japan and sometimes in Sri Lanka. I remember how car sales had so called G Package, Luxel Package and all which costed almost 1 Mil above the same grade standard car. the car documents and telltale signs show that its just a normal base grade car that these sellers fit Modellista bodykits from scrap cars and sometimes even dash pannel accesories like auto climate control, Multi steering etc to make it look of higher spec. Even most "brand new zero milage" cars brought by sellers have JEVIC, JAAI and Auction sheets which clearly means they are not brand new but auctioned off cars with reset mileage (they make it like 350km to make it convincible). One car salesman said the FOB price for brand new is higher so they buy the car and run a few KMs and register it in japan to show that its a used car (not sure if its BS but sure sounds like it).

It all depends on whether you would consider a 17 year old car worth your budget specially with the currently inflated market price on cars. Even the cheapest deals nowdays are 3-5 laks above the market average before covid. But 100,000 seems like a very good mileage (if genuine) for a 17-15 year old car given most 2008-9+ cars nowdays have done well over 150K.

The original piece is printed plastic (Poly propylene or simillar) but yeah at print shops they will do it on acrylic/ printed plexiglass.

oooo the 90's nissan shifter. I remember having the same shifter on our B13 doctor sunny years ago. Local printed plexiglass peices will make it obv that its been fiddled with. The light dispersion from under the shifter is a lot different on the cheap plexiglass at print shops and the topmost printed layer comes off after a few years (had that part peeling off on one of my friend's nissan march that was bought 2nd hand). If you have the cash try and find an original replacement from a recondition part shop around delkanda, given its an older car it shouldn't be ridiculously priced.

Before you start wait a few seconds and let the buzzing noise go off before you crank the engine (ie: let the fuel pump start up properly and prime the ignition), This is not an issue if its push start cuz the car automatically waits for the fuel pump but if its key start ive seen so many people just get in the car and fire it up. Also given its a 121 its a good idea to check your engine timing and fuel pump.

I can relate well 😂 our one was a converted one too! the seats did not match the door trim patterns. Anyway 90% of the ones in the market are townaces with retroffited headlights, grill and doors. some conversions ive seen they dint even do the interior door trim changes or the coolbox.

My dad used to have the KR42 version of the Noah, its definetely a good choice for a minivan with its dual AC, wide seat options and 3C engine but I think the pricing in SL is ridiculous for it. 2006 model was close to 3.2 Mil in 2011 and nowdays even 1999 model petrol ones go for 3+ mil, diesel ones of 2006-7 are well above 4.5 mil For that price i'd say an Avanza would be better off as it would be newer even though its not japanese made. The 1.5 L should do well for city driving.

seems about right for city traffic. Personally havent owned one but had a friend with a santafe that did about the same. In case you are curious on fuel savings in city, do a tuneup, clean your pumps, change oil to a thinner grade(fully synthetic), check your air filters, oil filters etc, keep aircon on 24 and high fan instead of lo/18 degrees to cool ur cabin, never use chinese tyres and also fill them to a proper pressure and most of all drive with a light foot. you might end up doing a few extra kms on your fill up.

Firstly unless you've driven it off road like an SUV or something very unprobable that ur needing a new steering rack for a 20K mileage car, but on the other hand so many importers turn back mileages so its a good place to check your rack. Generally speaking your symptoms indicate a worn rack. Had the issue in our company car, it made a very annoying ticking noise when taking U turns and changing the entire rack including the bushes was the way it got fixed. dont buy recon parts at delkanda cuz the quality and reliability is not guaranteed (even with the seller's fake 6month warranty). Better off importing a kit from japan or getting a brand new one from TL.

i had a fb13 doctor sunny long time back with the GA15 engine. colombo peak traffic its hard to get past 9kmpl and avg is abt 7-8kmpl. even outstation it barely did anything better than 12. Anyway do a tuneup, clean the spark plugs and fuel injectors, might improve somethhing.

Aqua is actually a good car, Powertrain is well built and does really well in fuel(11-13 in heavy traffic, 15 in city limits and 20+ outstation), Car sits really low for aerodynamics so you are going to hit potholes and speedbumps with a screetch every now and then, Specially if you have a bodykit you need to get the lower lips with a rubber lining. Comfort wise its not bad, front seats are ample but the back seat legroom is a little poor and even the roof is a little low so tall people might be just missing their head on the back roof. The cooling systems are great and even the fact that most imported ones were in the good grades came with headlight washers, LED headlamps, Push start, multifunction steering etc.. Only drawback personally is that the car needs regular maintenance to make sure it runs smooth and well and this costs a bit more. Furthermore, acceleration is a little poor in hillysides and sometimes feels sluggish on overtaking unlike in petrol cars. But overall a good choice. Market price ofc has plummeted for this car and mostly over the fear of high maintenance and unreliability for some models related to HV issues. But finding a good car will not be that hard. Swift RS is actually a much more feature packed choice. It comes with tons of more features like 4way camera, brake assit etc.. also with paddle shifters and a sleek interior. The turbo engine is a good advantage on fuel economy as well as performance but dont expect it to work as well as a r34 skyline. Havent bought one or used one to comment well but other owners would elaborate. test driving did feel good though. not sure which one is more responsive and snappy but aqua does come with a 1500 cc engine.

There were quite a few brought down back then due to the revised tax structure. I had a friend who got one down and ran it for a while before switching. But yes the car would have gone through some rough use depending on how badly the owners used it. But given its rarity there could possibly be well looked after ones. Most of the other cars within his budget are either with smaller engines and less luxury features. 7mil would have been a good starting point to get a Crown or newer Accord. 4Mil would mostly include abused mid range luxury cars. The cheapest ideal newer and less abused sedans in his budget(clearly not a luxury car but just a normal sedan would be either Allion, Civic Fd, Lancer Ex or Axio, prius etc.. ) Or of course you can do the whole buy a toyota and put in lexus badges or buy a honda and put in Gold or RS badges. Maybe thow in some V*P stickers and strobe lights for extra HP. ??

well as a person who timely switches cars i can tell u that its no easy task to sell or exchange any car within a month unless you are willing to sell it at a ridiculously low price to a car sale or a reseller as there are not a lot of people who have 4 million lying around to do drop purchases. Most people looking for cars beyond 3 mil are very careful and take their time to get the best possible deal for their hard earned money so not sure where the magical car you are looking for fits well. As for your choices the optima and teana both are good cars for use but you would have a hard time trying to sell them secondhand even at low prices as the buyer base in sri lanka has some inconsistent buyers who keep hunting for "branded", "japanese", "beige interior", "Pearl white", etc bullshit cars. from experience toyotas do go faster in the secondhand market but for a family use car other brands are pretty good too. specially Hondas and Mitsubishis. My recommendations would be Toyota Sai or Mark X (if you can find it), it has a large boot, averagely good fuel economy(sai), a premium looking interior and a good second hand market value. The engine capacity fits ur requirement and would offer you some good performance in both city and outstation. these cars came with sunroof, heated seats and stuff so might tick most of the boxes for you. Other options may include lexus RX350,400, They come with premium plush interior, good engine, sunroof, electric tailgate and whatnot, also included a hybrid version in 2008(might be a little more expensive).

recon parts in SL are stuff that were removed from wreckers in japan. so in case you get a faulty one you are in trouble. Try to import a brand new part from japan and then install it in either at TL or a garage you know. But given the situation with limited imports you might have to opt for TL parts directly for a brand new replacement. Recon is cheap cuz it doesnt come with all the parts and the wear and tear in it is not guaranteed to last. Full set generally means the entire steering rack including the bushes.

How many KM are u running per day? Do a full tank to tank and calculate your fuel efficiency of KMPL for us to suggest any solutions if you are actually getting bad fuel figures. Anyway you cant expect hybrid figures even with a 660 engine. most it would do is 11-12 in city traffic and even outstation might not go beyond 14-15 as the engine would constantly be under load unlike cars with bigger engines doing well in the highway. Btw you are carrying heavy cargo in your vehicle so fuel efficiency is anyway going to be low. besides if you are going uphill a lot its going to be even worse.

Marketing cars on AL forums lol.... u resurrected a thread that is 4 years old and for a car that is not that spoken of today ?

Depending on the vehicle type you are looking for there are plenty of options, Read through the forums for the common issues and owner reviews for each vehicle. Vezel is under 4 Mil because of the DCT issue and note that the replacement is going to cost you and is also costly to regularly maintan the gearbox to extend its life. Grace and Fit GP5 also has the same issue. Toyota there are many models and sedans within your budget would be allion 240, axio 161, premio 240, rav4 (2001-5), Terios etc.. Honda: Fd civic, Accord, CRV (2003-6) Mitsubishi: Lancer Ex, Attrage, Outlander (older one) Nissan; G11 Sylphy, Xtrail, sunny Suzuki: Xbee (hard to find one for cheap)

As a learner you are supposed to keep to the left lane at almost all times except if you are to take a U turn or merge into oncomming traffic so that you can take a turn to the right. Overtaking vehicles as much fun as it is would mean that you might have to speed at times and as a learner its not the best idea out there as you might have less experience predicting road traffic conditions and if someone drives reckless you might not be able to avoid the accident. I myself understand that sometimes there are vehicles moving way too slow in the road but as a learner i think its better for you to move along with the traffic flow or if you are still tempted to overtake, do so when the road is clear and you have a good line of sight with oncomming traffic and the vehicles behind you. Cant tell you how many times i have seen bikes go flying around because of reckless overtaking and poor decision making. Hope you ride safe!.

Since its your first car may i suggest you to get a newer car? for the price of a 141 you can easily get yourself a newer Toyota hatchback if you are flexible with not having to stick to a sedan. (2013 ish vitz, 2016 ish Passo, Toyota Tank etc.. ) But as for sedans, The FB15 is a pretty old car at almost 20 years, Most of the cars in the market would have done well over 100K and gone through some extensive use. Id say go for a 141 or axio. Most of the mechanical parts of 141LX are simillar with the axio including dashboard. Only difference is the 141 comes with a 1.6L while the Axio is 1.5L so the axio would be slightly fuel efficient in city limits. The car is actually really comfortable compared to a FB15 and packs more features and more cabin space. Knew a friend with a 141 lx 2008 Model and there were not many complaints other than an alternator replacement, new shocks and fuel pump repair. Thing to factor in is that most of these cars were brought under permits so you might be able to find a genuine one without any tampered meter readings and heavy accident damage. But the JDM version of the same 141 (axio) is also not a bad option. The axio is more popular and carries more value than the counterpart domestic 141 with more features like winker mirrors, Projector beam, dual multifunction steering, automatic climate control etc on the G grade. The closest to all of these features came for the domestic model 141 in 2011 with the GLX grade. Most 2008 ones are the LX. As your friend mentioned, most of the spare part joints at delkanda import their parts from japan so they will mostly have ample parts for the 141 axio as opposed to the 141 LX. But, The LX domestic model imported by toyota lanka is the same model that runs in most european, american and asian markets but with variations in engine, transmission and grade options. Body parts and panels should not be that hard to find even at spare part joints, but as always if a need arises toyota lanka will source you the parts you need in the worst case scenario(TL parts will be a little expensive). fuel economy on the 141 LX is about 8-11 in city and around 14-15 outstation. Other options within the same budget as a 141 would be Nissan Tida (check for high mileage and gearbox, car is comfortable), Nissan G11 Sylphy bluebird(check dashboard issue and wheel hub assembly), Nissan N17 Sunny, Honda FD civic, Accord (Euro) and Mitsu CS/EX lancers.

Isn't that problem with every brand of imported car in SL? Back when i was looking for cars there were plenty of Honda Grace's and Fits that had serious engine wear and cosmetically looked wrecked but with meter readings of 17,000 and 23,000. Same goes even for the new Civic EX (2017/18) and Vezel RS, one of my friends was hunting for a brandnew but most of the cars on sales were with turned back mileage. Same goes to every brand including Suzuki & Nissan(except ones brought by A*W), Mitsubishi's (Pajero, CS Lancers) As for maintenance cost, the biggest advantage i guess people record about toyotas is that the engine handles our roads well so repairs dont come often until you hit around 80,000km or 5-6 years. Even for servicing, Toyota lanka is cheaper than Stafford and much more efficient(full service including lubricants, filter etc..), Not sure about Unimo. Furthermore Toyota Lanka readily helps grey imports. Even if you bought a JDM car like Toyota Passo, Raize, Auris, Fielder etc that is not imported by TL.. they will still do repairs on it just like any other car that was brought to them and not fuss about anything. They even source any parts if needed. I know people who got rejected on repairs at A*W for suzuki Wagon R's and fussed for Honda Vezels/Fit at Stafford. Everyone knows how A*W just plainly backed out of giving support for Nissan Leaf owners to replace batteries. TL in the other hand does battery swaps for almost all the grey imported toyotas at a fair price. Biggest advantage i guess on toyota is that there are ample parts (both genuine brandnew, Reconditioned/wrecker parts and Even used ones) compared to other brands, Plus the cars are readily upgradable with multiple extras across the same platform. Toyota is one of the few brands in Sri Lanka that has a direct agent who is fully affiliated with Toyota in Japan. Most of the other brands in SL are maintained by third party companies that work alongside the japanese or european carmaker. Eg: A*W for Nissan/Suzuki, Unimo for Mitsubishi, Stafford for Honda etc.. As for people using it poorly, It once again applies to all the brands. I came across many abused cars from all the Japanese brands. Not a thing specific to toyota. Just go through the classified and you can find plenty of dressed up cars from every brand just ready for a quick sale.