Sadik

FW & FP i dont know - wonder whether these are diesel converts Fz- is DPL vehicles de-registered EA & EC are for pre GA- numbers registered afresh with 25K fee 28- diesel lorry 40-diesel lorry 69- uncategorized land vehicles 98- DPL 99- diesel motor car

Near Katunayake (opposite the AF camp) you get a workshop which was previously operated under one of the largest insurers in the country. I think now they operate under a different group. I used to hear good reviews about them many years back but recently nothing. If its' only on the bumper (nothing to the main structure) i think a decent automotive painter should be able to do the job.

Well , it certainly is not a very plush ride mind you. Suspension is quite hard & Doesn't absorb road bumps as my previous HT32 did , but i found it slightly less bumpy than the Prado 150 (Tx), but that's me (my pals who have the J150 beg to differ) My momma & wife don't like it as much as the X-trail complaining its a bumpy ride at the rear. But for me superb visibility with a good driving position , decent torque & pick up , good road presence (people dont cut across you as much in the road) , rear wheel drive, go anywhere capability, and decent room inside - 7 seats & cave for loading luggage with dual AC are definite (+)s. Minuses will be the diesel rattle , body vibration, body roll and heavy steering (its' a proper diesel rig ) But i guess the V6 3L or 3.8L may be much more pleasant rides due to the quiet & smooth motor, with a better engine note (Haven't driven the petrol versions). Burnt my hands with the hybrid X-trail and its' many complications , so content with the Monty being a bare bones car- i get a lot of stuff from UK / online as they have the shogun, at a fraction of the agent's price albeit better quality. plenty of literature available on the web on maintenance as this car is very popular in Aussie, UK ,Russia etc. and 4M41 is a time tested engine.

Wait- Before blindly disposing the 260 and going for a so called hybrid i think you need to consider a few things a) Driving pleasure - Hybrids behave rather differently to the traditionals, esp on driving experience. They can be pretty silent but you know - i honeslty felt driving hybrids pretty lifeless b) Hybrid battery depreciation can be an issue. If you are buying a second hand you have to be very careful on the battery condition because if you get a car with a dying battery it can give you more expenses rather than benefits. c) Do a depreciation price differentials between same age hybrids and non hybrids - Non hybrids such as the 260 tend to hold better value d) Hybrids are technically much more complicated to their non hybrid counterparts , and you need to maintain them at Hybrid dedicated workshops, Non hybrids in contrast could be repaired at many places e) Comfort wise the 260 will give you more space , looks and actually more ease of mind i would say. and much more fun to drive than an aqua or a prius

I think for clarity you should first specify the model no : WXXX which would make the job of the experts easier rather than a plate reference. I think you might be referring to W210 There are some specific issues to this model on rusting and then on the injector mechanism for diesels (Lucas). AFAIK this model was not assembled in Japan. What you saw might be car imported from Japan as a used. But i guess this model is not from the era where Mercs were very much bullet proof , as against current models. So, expect issues There are many Merc experts in this forum who should be able to help you.

No i havent used the OEM FSC. Actually didn't know its' existence until you brought the point forward. Thanks I was surfing thru some of the hardcore pajero blogs from Aussie. From there only i picked up a decent level of knowledge on the vehicle and what it could do. Liqui Moly was the only decent option i could find here. Used Wurth initially but felt Moly was a better option. BTW , from where did you get the OEM FSC imported from? Kick back is a blessing of the tradi auto trannies. Loved to do that in my Ti , which many didnt know, and the Monty does it in style. I haven't driven many Mitsus apart from the L400 and Lancers. So am ashamed to comment. Anyways Kudos Tiv- Nice to chat to a fellow Monty owner and who loves driving it.

Did the headlight conversion in my 4M41 to LED. My version doesnt have CANBUS so looked for a LED set which says for models without CANBUS. IF you have a CANBUS , there is a CANBUS compatible version available. Look for a good LED set in Amazon where you can refer to confirmed purchase reviews , get the exact make and model and source from Ali express which is much cheaper. I got a brand called SeaLight which works perfectly

Haven't used the MK1 so i don't know. Since i am in the group let me just post the question and see. You get some new MK1 owners in the group (i mean no offence , its a part of being a young car owner) who are a bit too enthusiastic you know, so i always take the claims with a pinch of salt Tiv - 4 in Kandy i guess is really good brother. That's one town i fear to drive thru Mine is a 4M41 as well - Just when i bought the car (mind you coming from , 2 CVT based rides) she was really thirsty and doing 4.0 to 5.0 in colombo, even lesser during heavy traffic. ( Bought her when she was 38K, relatively new). We took time to know each others driving dynamics i guess , which wasn't very pleasing in the initial couple of weeks. Subsequently, when my foot learnt her dynamics she started doing 6.0 to 6.7 up to even 7.2 (city with a couple of heavy traffic patches here & there) in some instances but on a light foot. To put further perspective i was running her on injector treatment fluid and Cetane boosters as well , which kind of gave a very smooth feeling to the pedal and reduced the occasional knock. The engine sounds much quieter now, with very less vibration, and also a blessing to drive. After the injector treatment and Cetane booster , in the E03 from kottawa to Matara she records 11.4 Kmpl as the average , where i guess my average speed was 80++. Thats the all time high record for me. And mind you i thrashed the pedal even up to 140 at times after passing Galle (which is illegal, and shouldnt have been done) I can remember someone in the Pajero forum quoting a shogun V98 4M41 doing 12.1 but the OP didnt post a pic. But all in all , after teh Monty, my fuel bill exactly doubled from the X-trail (HNT32) , but the pleasure factor shot up by leaps and bounds. This is the vehicle i enjoyed the most up to now. I think life is too short for watching out the fuel computer but keep on thrashing that peddle and listen to engine groan - Dream is to own a LC 200 V8 diesel one day - so lets see..

For starters am a bit worried to see this in a 260.. Havent seen the glue coming off so fast? Has the vehicle being subjected to an impact / repair in this area? or perhaps a corrosion which is leaking water to the liner ? There are a quick DIY fixes, but i would suggest you going to a place like Nawala Cushion Works, take the entire headliner off clean and re-glue.If the cost is too high there are some DIY heating glue fixes which might do the trick. But pls inspect the respective area of the body

Me thinks the same, considering the ages of the cars as well. I dont know about the Troopers / Big Horns but i heard the new MUX has fuel figures dearer to 4M40 or the Fortuner

Well had the identical car , but never ever had those figures. Colombo she did from 8-11, highways i can once remember the figure being 18 something but not sure what i was smoking en route ??

Sorry i notice that you say Pajero - Are u referring to the JDM version , and just to understand the reference is for 4M41 engines ? Thanks Also on a side note , i read afew cases on older 4M41s having a speed sensor issue being misdiagnosed as fuel pressure sensor issues / or rather need for full pump overhaul. Might be an exploitable lead to your acquaintance?

Am also not aware of such an issue. Are u referring to the DPF clogging problem ?

You need to double check , but a few guys i know replaced with the NZE 121's compressor solely on the basis of reliability. and i think its more dearer in terms of price as well.

yes and is a global standard including in the UK as far as i know...

For Toyota Lanka & A*W, you can actually buy them from the respective agents - (others i actually haven't tried) . These are Wurth plates which are custom branded. Prices should be in the range of 1000/- per frame. For Toyota pls note that you would not get the Toyota lettering and logo in red. Thats only for vehicles being sold by them exclusively. My purchases from Darley road havent been good as Wurth , as within a year i saw the plastic becoming brittle with colour fading. This could be a reason of using low quality resin, masterbatch and even increasing co-polymer to reduce weight and thus cost. Wurth actually have served well and both the holders which i got from TL & A*W were Wurth, which gives a good look.

Don't have a euro but used the Allion for 5 years which i got zero mileage. By first 25K km range the rear shocks gave up. Lubing at Kl**n Park costs around 10K on average (which goes up when i need to change air filters and AC filters plus other additions). Tune ups and injector cleaning ending up at about 15K, CVT change i think 18K , AC servicing 20K , O2 sensor replaced, Front tyres gave up by 20,000 due to the usual issue with the the original tyres, and so on.. On the contrary, Montero service and repairs also cost and arm & leg if i buy them from the agent , but now through a relative i get Shogun 4 parts from UK at a fraction of the price ( around 60% cheaper to the agents). So, Allion maintaining at the agents indeed is not cheap or any jap for that matter i guess. I dont have the faintest clue on euros.

Hot can be a bit comparative as well. I suggest you check with another wagon R / Sting (identical engine config i.e turbo / non turbo) and see for yourself.. if you feel the your car's heating is too much , for starters just check the fan function. If its on the same fan for AC & engine both then i guess the cooling system may have a block , perhaps a manufacturing fault / debris

my bad..i was actually comparing against the 260. 240 was a typo

Yep, had one for two years and parted reluctantly. I think the starting model year was 1996,. So virtually you get three variants if i am not mistaken. AT 211(Si) was 1.8Ltr , AT212 Ti-1.5 Ltr and AT210 GTwas 1.6Ltr which was the more preppier version of the 03. By 1998/99 they did a facelift to the model which is fondly referred in Sri Lanka as the "honeycomb" model. I personally still feel that the AT2xx series was one of the sexiest to come out of the Toyota JDM main stream sedans apart from Mark 2s and chasers. It has a 5AFE engine for 1.5 Litre , but i dont think it had VVTi, Mine was not doing fuel well (9 per litre) being a 1.5. But i've heard the Si was the most preferred with decent pulling power coupled with good fuel figures. And also a better trim. I think there was a variant called My Road , which had good kit. Its a heavy car mind you , but good road grip and much better handling for me than the allion. Conventional gear box so, def you will feel it has more pulling than the 240. Suspension also felt better than the 240 , with good space. Ground clearance was a bit of b*tch. These cars are very old now. Even when i was looking for one in 2010, i came across many examples which were mishandled, and changed many hands. So, its good if you can get a car which is decently maintained. Actually i havent heard of many faults in the Carina as against more modern 260's or so. Do a good check on the car before you buy. Those days vehicles used to come to SL even after running almost 50K kms in Japan. So, you'd be lucky to have a car below 200K. Look for a Si if you can despite the price premium. Will be more exciting to drive. Its a car i still stare when one passes me. the 212 was my first proper Jap sedan.

Sad to say but i wrote personally to Nissan Japan and Nissan India. I had a Nissan Xtrail HT32. Two of my friends' 32's packed up and both were sold as is for very low prices. Quoting these cases i wrote to Nissan , but sadly the response was that Japan : As the vehicle is exported they are unable to support. However, they have requested the local agent to look at the possibility of helping local grey import X-trails. India also responded in a similar way. There is a local guy in Marawila who claims that he can repair the GBs and gives a 30K Km warranty albeit at a cost of 400K+. Also there are two guys in Kalalgoda & a famous auto gearbox repairer in Thalawatugoda area who have rectified the issue in some cars. But the owners still complain of abnormal jerks in the car. I've personally checked with a few friends in Japan who mentioned that they can send it down at a landed price f about 500K . I think the agent quotes something above a good 1 million for replacement. Nissan is quite notorious in the CVT gearbox area where, always their fixes have been to replace the full gearbox rather than repairing , where multiple vehicles including Altima, sentra and sylphy (not the same gearbox , mind you) are being affected in countries such as Aussie. But all these instances the Nissan authorized agent has replaced the GB , free of charge. Sadly, Sri Lanka is affected by the grey market plague due to price differentials. My advice is run to as much as possible now, as you anyway cannot to a diagnosis of the issue beforehand. Some blogs in Trinidad & Tobaggo suggest frequent gear oil changes (15,000kms) would kind of delay the issue. But until the 2017 HT32 , the issue would still haunt you. However, mind you, i know some HT32s who have done 90,000kms without any issues. Its basically the problem with one of the gearbox component suppliers from Austria - thats what i've heard. Sadly, the DC GB is designed by Renault , which we should've known earlier. Sadly, the manufacturer nor agent is willing to atleast publish the chassis numbers of the affected vehicles so that a) Affected owners know they will be hit and prepare themselves b) Non affected owners can have a peace of mind. Not much of recon items for the rectified gearbox in Japan as well. Also, pls be aware of a rumor of possible failures in the brake booster and AC compressor as well. Projected cost for each of these repairs may exceed LKR 200K each, as you would be compelled to use b/new parts from the agent. i've only encountered 5-6 cars of this nature still, but there may be more cars out there. Weighing all these possibilities i had to let go of mine at a loss of a good 2Mn ++, although she worked perfectly to me until the sad departure. Very comfy and easy to drive albeit the horrible pulling power or rather lack of. Its' your call - as a friend i will advise you to exit now as still teh vehicles are new , and since it's a hybrid you might be able to get rid of it, rather than stranding with it down the time line , formally achieving the "lemon car" status. All of us know some Nissans which have been granted the honor. It was a very good car, which served me well for two years, and lot of fond memories. " Damn you Nissan" ....?

600 is ok for the 1NZ-FE engine , initially i also thought that it could be a faulty mount with the mileage of the car. Trust the spark plugs , ignition coils , air filters have been checked. Have you checked the idle without the AC being switched on? Is it fine then?

If your parking on an incline , it is advisable that the parking brake is engaged first, so that the immediate shock / pressure on transmission is reduced. If its' done on a level , i don't see a difference.

325- predominantly was for Diesel conversions. I guess looking at the original engine and chassis numbers of the van should be able to sort that issue out. Now i think by paying 25K you can anyway get an english number, which may make it a bit less awkward

I am not doubting you or anything. But having driven in overseas motorways and comparing them against Sri Lankan i dont think thats such a wise thing to do. Especially because the local motorway lanes are rather narrow ( only two lanes) , and on top of it having much narrower shoulders , which in turn creates a risk where our Sri Lankan people have this weird habit of stopping in the shoulder to have tea/ watch the nature rather than using the welipenna rest. Also, the road discipline in the highway is very less where people on the left lane quckly shift to the right lane without properly understanding the braking distance of the vehicle which is oncoming in the overtaking lane. Drive safe. I think 100Kmh is the best speed for safety + law Peace my friend...