varotone
-
Posts
211 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Blogs
Gallery
Everything posted by varotone
-
HELP NEEDED This is the thermo regulator relay that controls the AC. This was disconnected. AC compressor clutch was wired separately with a switch to keep the AC working. I want to test this relay and use this. Because the wiring is badly hacked, I'm lost not knowing where these wires connect to. Please help me with connecting this properly. My mechanic wants to toss this away and use a manual thermostat. Google didn't help finding wiring diagram.
-
Project Moggie - Disassemble Body Parts
varotone commented on kusumsiri's blog entry in Project Moggie
Please drop me a PM if you found a place to buy vintage hubcaps. -
The CR has the details of the latest 3 previous owners and the current owner including the dates of transfer. If an insurance company or leasing company has owned the car for a short time, it's can be suspected to be a condemned car. This must be easy to find out. I'm quite sure that such a badly damaged vehicle will show signs of damage. Especially newer ones with crumple zones. Mechs here would do a lousy job. I don't think the book was swapped as @iRagesaid. If the book was swapped, the registration number would be different from the one that was condemned. Digging the history of the car from the current number will not reveal the accident that happened under a different (old) number. I may be wrong. The car sales crooks might have a way to get it done. Also, there are plenty of "ghost" books in circulation. Once a vehicle is totally destroyed (like written off) the registration should be cancelled. At least, that's the law. Literally no one does it. Quoting the DMT; "In case a registered motor vehicle is removed from Sri Lanka, or destroyed or has been dismantled or rendered unusable permanently, the registered owner should inform the Commissioner General of Motor Traffic within 14 days, for the cancellation of its registration"
-
Project Moggie - Disassemble Body Parts
varotone commented on kusumsiri's blog entry in Project Moggie
Nice to see your project. Wish you all the best! -
Are the holes in the rims designed to draw air in to cool the brakes? I thought they are to save the cost of materials and reduce the weight, and rotational inertia. I've also seen many rims without holes or tiny holes.
-
I don't understand how to use engine braking in traffic. May be in light-to-light traffic where there's traffic before the traffic lights but not after. You can accelerate when it turns green and instead of slamming the brakes when the next light is red, you can use engine braking. Ride will be smooth. (Boring if the car is under powered) Engine braking is essential in mountainous terrain. Coasting in neutral or with clutch depressed in haputale-beragala is calling for disaster. If you slow down the car only with the brakes, brakes might have already failed due to heat when you want to come to a stop. When engine braking, rotation of the crankshaft compresses the air and energy is dissipated as heat. No fuel is consumed. Your battery is charged and ac works basically without burning fuel. You don't get this if you coast downhill. Also, engines are built to dissipate heat. Brakes are not. (Except for performance cars with brake ducts). Engine braking is essential.
-
Convertible hiace with a pie oven
-
Progressing slowly
- 189 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- mitsubishi
- a72v
- (and 7 more)
-
HELP NEEDED I have some basic questions and at this point I'm too afraid to ask. 1. What engines came with this car? YOM 1983. (According to my manual, it was manufactured with 4G3 series and 4G5 series engines.) 2. My engine number starts with G12B-CB-XXXX. What engine do I have? I believe it's 4G12B. 1400cc Orion with jet valves. 3. How can I find out what engine it had when it was manufactured? And know if it was swapped later on? (I just want to know if the current engine is the same model as it was designed to fit. I'm alright if a previous owner had replaced it with one of same model) 4. Does anyone have a engine repair manual for my engine? (I remember seeing a large collection of Lancer manuals somewhere on AL. But a search didn't show the ones I need)
-
My engine bores need honing. I'm waiting till I get a free day to take it to the machine shop. Had a close look at the carburetor and kind of disappointed. There are cracks near the carburetor mounting bolts, EGR lines are clogged up, a coolant line to the carb is broken and sealed. The carb needs a lot of work. Also, the carb is "Aisan". I gather that the original was "Solex" manufactured by "Mikuni". I have 4 options to fix this mess. 1. Search for a carburetor expert who can refurbish this one. (Neeyourou help to find one) 2. Buy a reconditioned carb from a scrap yard. (Didn't go hunting for one. But my mechanic says it will be available) 3. Buy a brand new Japanese carb (the most expensive option. Mikuni goes for about $250 on eBay. Didn't find any here) 4. Buy a brand new Thaiwan / Chinese carb (readily available here. 4 places had them. Goes for 15-20k) I would like to know your thoughts on this. Added Following some older threads on AL, I called Dhammika at Kotta rd. To discuss my options. He says he doesn't do carb overhaul. Does only tuning. He told me to contact Shantha. (He clearly said he can't recommend the guy. But he does carb overhauls.) Found that Shantha runs the Carburetor Banda's place in Grandpass and doesn't have good reviews on AL. So, I'm back at square one. Looking at how rare carb mechanics are I'm seriously considering learning carburetor repairs myself.
- 189 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- mitsubishi
- a72v
- (and 7 more)
-
Greetings gentlemen, Are there places where I can hire/borrow mechanical tools and equipment? I'm in need of some stuff such as torque wrench, piston rings expanders, pressure gauge, valve spring compressors, gear pullers, timing lights, dwell angle meters, vernier calipers....etc. I started to restore an old car and sort of fell in love with mechanics Now, I have an irresistible urge to do every possible bit of the mechanical work by myself. I have some tools myself, and plan to buy some more in the future. However, some specialist tools are quite expensive. Spending a lot on specialist tools that I will use only one an year or less frequently doesn't make financial sense. So, I'm looking for some place that I can hire the tools. I inquired from some places where they hire power tools, compressors, hedge trimmer and the such. They don't have tools that I need. My neighborhood mechanic (bass) is very helpful in teaching me some bits and ok with lending some of his stuff like the engine jack. But he doesn't have the specialist tools I need. Not even torque wrench. They just tighten it by the feel. (Don't know if it's the norm with the mechanics here). I'm in Galle. So any place closer would be very convenient. (Even around Colombo is all right) Any help with this is very much appreciated. Thank you! Varotone.
-
Work in progress. Cleaning the valves and polishing rocker arm shafts.
- 189 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- mitsubishi
- a72v
- (and 7 more)
-
Gear box mount and rocker cover replacement
varotone replied to firstgear's question in Mechanical problems
I had a very different picture in my head I thought oil is dripping down from the rocker cover on to the spark plug tubes and leads. How does oil get in to the air cleaner chamber? I can't imagine such a contraption. -
Gear box mount and rocker cover replacement
varotone replied to firstgear's question in Mechanical problems
Rocker cover does not contain oil under pressure. Oil seals are less likely to fail. A warped rocker cover might be the reason. If the bolts are too loose, it may leak oil from due to the poor seal. If it is too tight, might warp or crack the plastic rocker cover. Make sure it is torqued down to specifications. If the engine block and rocker cover are in good shape, removing all remaining packings properly and using a new packing would solve the issues. If only the rocker cover is uneven, it can easily be resurfaced in a lathe. If the cylinder head also needs resurfacing, it will be a major engine dismantling job. (I'm clueless about the elite. This is in general) -
There is a timing mark on the timing pulley (one that drives the camshaft by the timing belt) on the crankshaft. Once the timing belt cover is removed to expose the timing pulley on the crankshaft, a mark can be made on the crankshaft pulley. Work in progress?? This is a well spent weekend
-
My tinkerer-cum-painter is a slow coach. The body is still untouched. So by the time he eventually finishes the bodywork, I will have plenty of time to rebuild the engine. I'm gradually dissembling the engine and came across this Orion sticker on the valve cover under layers of gunk. I'm assuming this is an original sticker. It survived all these years Hopefully, I will be able to finish the disassembly and start washing the parts with kerosine/petrol over the weekend. HELP NEEDED I can't see a timing mark (notch) in the crank pulley. How to proceed with the disassembly?
-
In theory he can. The reality is not 100% of the gas is collected, and when refilling (at the end of the repair) not 100% of the recovered gas can be filled. There will be a small loss due to leaks and some gas remaining in the cylinders and tubes. In the end, I'll have a low pressure and would need more gas. Old gas is no longer manufactured/available and I have no other option than to switch to the new gas. Actually, the intended purpose of recovering R12 gas is to dispose it safely and convert the system to R134a. Not to collect and reuse it. Sadly there are no facilities in Sri Lanka to dispose R12. So the recovered R12 just sits in the cylinder until one fine day someone empties it an reuses the cylinder. If I insisted on recovering, mechanic could charge me for service. But this is what will happen at the end of the day. My guy was honest and told me the long story.
-
As per my AC mechanic, he has refrigerant recovery equipment. What's missing is a proper system in place to dispose the old R12 refrigerant. So, even if he recovers it, there's no way he can safely get rid it later.
-
UPDATES Finally got the engine hoist and removed the engine. Unfortunately I had to vent the AC gas. Gave it a through wash today. Here's a little tip on making you own degreaser. Dissolve a sachet of laundry detergent powder in 500mL of hot water. The solution would be warm now. Add it to 1L of kerosene oil in a bottle. Shake the bottle vigorously to mix the water and oil. This concoction is a very good degreaser. It can be sprayed or applied with a paint brush inside the engine room, axel, undercarriage and wheel arch where there's a heavy grime buildup. Let the degreaser soak up the grime. Blast the car with a pressure washing machine first with water and then with soapy water. New rust spots which were covered in gunk will show up. The radiator tubes and water channels in the engine have a lot of rust. This is after doing a flush. The gasket at the oil sump is also bad. So, I'm thinking about doing the engine overhaul at this moment. If money fairy is nice with me, I'll be able to overhaul the engine while the body work is going on.
-
Some old compressors can handle the increased pressure of R132a. The mechanic said mine can. It's just a matter of fixing the adaptors for ports, adding lubricant and gas. Sometimes new leaks may show up due to the high pressure which needs to be fixed. That's what my mechanic said. I'll update you once I get the conversation done.
- 189 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- mitsubishi
- a72v
- (and 7 more)
-
UPDATES Started disabling the car for tinkering and painting. The trims, glass, dashboard, and body panels are off. Struggling with the headliner because the screws have rusted at the threads. Plan is to strip the engine bay as well. There's a little delay because the chain block I planned to hire is unavailable at the moment. As soon as I get it, engine will be removed and body work will start. I'll post a few pics once the car is stripped. I'm little stck with removing the AC. It's currently working and on R12. I've asked for a few mechanics to decompress the system. Looks like none of them wants to recover the gas from the system. Their advice is to vent the system to the atmosphere and fill with R134a after refitting. They say there's no facility to dispose R12 gas in Sri Lankan. If I can find a recovery gas can, they can recover the gas and re use on my car if I need. But, still at some point I'll need to switch to R134a. So, venting the old gas and switching after the repair is the least cumbersome. I guess I'll have to just punch a hole in the ozone layer I'm looking for alternatives for a couple of days before I get the chain block. If there's no other way..... Then.....
-
The rear combi lights and the garnish on the headlight garnish are damaged. Hunted for replacements at Panchikawatta. Plan B is to try fix it with two-part epoxy putty and repaint it. That's the last resort as the final result will not be elegant.
-
Thank you! 3400 for both. They made it in a matter of minutes. Letters are metal (I guess pewter. Non-ferrous) kinda reverted to the aluminum back plate.
-
UPDATES Tinkering and painting will start on 25th of December Went to panchi to look for the availability of parts before I dissemble the car. The following parts are available. Windshield beading, door beading, quarter panel beading, front Combi light on the buffer, lens for signal lights on the fender. Lens for rear Combi light was not available. There's a crystal light that fits. Also rubber packing for lights were not available. Guess I'll have to get some rubber sheet and make the packing. BTW, Made an impulse purchase. Old-school license plate.
- 189 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- mitsubishi
- a72v
- (and 7 more)
-
The first response is correct. You have to be at least 17 years. When you turn 17, you can apply for the diving license. Then you have to sit a written exam on road rules. If you pass, you will be issued a temporary license valid for 18 months (which means valid until you turn 18 years old). With the temporary license you can ride a motorcycle with a L plate and learner's insurance alone or drive a vehicle under supervision of someone with a driving license. During this period you can learn to ride/drive on the road. As soon as you turn 18, you must face a practical test. If you pass it, you will get the proper driving license. You are risking your life and limb as well as of others by riding without a license. If you get busted, you'll be tried at Magistrate courts which will give you a suspended jail term and a fine. The cop will take your motorcycle and the owner will also be fined and warned. If you still itch to ride/drive before you turn 17, you can do so in your private property. Wear protective gear and ride only under the supervision of an adult. Please remember that byroads are NOT private property. Good luck and stay safe kiddo!
