Atf Oil Level

[abiman]

Hello,

I'm talking about Toyota Sprinter CE110 Diesel 1997 car.

ATF oil level dipstick has 4 notches. bottom two has COOL and top two has HOT. (picture attached) What is this?

Is it tells oil levels when engine is cool and hot?

thanks

[BLu3HaZe]

Low and High levels when the ATF is Cool or Hot. Hot levels are above the Cool levels as liquids expand when heated. So from the right of the pic, notch --

1 - Low, Cool

2 - High, Cool

3 - Low, Hot

4 - High, Hot

Though I'm not sure who'd check oil levels when the engine and GB are burning hot

Edited March 8, 2011 by BLu3HaZe

[abiman]

  On 3/8/2011 at 11:26 AM, BLu3HaZe said:

Low and High levels when the ATF is Cool or Hot. Hot levels are above the Cool levels as liquids expand when heated. So from the right of the pic, notch --

1 - Low, Cool

2 - High, Cool

3 - Low, Hot

4 - High, Hot

Though I'm not sure who'd check oil levels when the engine and GB burning hot

Hi thanks for answer.

However when engine is hot and cool, ATF oil level stays at same level. do you have idea why?

[BLu3HaZe]

Well the engine temp is connected more to engine oil temp, but anyway they all work together and even the GB gets heated up when used, and ATF level should rise when the fluid is hot. Someone else got to explain that, cuz I don't get how that's possible for the level to remain the same no matter whether the liquid is hot or cold, sorry.

[jdnet]

Ok first of all, here's how you check your fluid lvels correctly.

Let the engine warm up.

With the car on a level surface and the hand brake engaged, move through each gear. Then move back to neutral and check the fluid level while it's on neutral and the car is still idling.

This is the most accurate way of checking the fluid levels.

As for the reason you aren't seeing a change, it's probably cause your doing it wrong. Try it the right way and you should notice a difference.

[abiman]

  On 3/8/2011 at 12:19 PM, jdnet said:

Ok first of all, here's how you check your fluid lvels correctly.

Let the engine warm up.

With the car on a level surface and the hand brake engaged, move through each gear. Then move back to neutral and check the fluid level while it's on neutral and the car is still idling.

This is the most accurate way of checking the fluid levels.

As for the reason you aren't seeing a change, it's probably cause your doing it wrong. Try it the right way and you should notice a difference.

Hi

you mean move through each gear for shifting the leaver through P-R-N-D-2-L is it?

and how long should I keep leaver in each position before take it back to N?

Should I accelerate engine while doing this with hand brake engaged?

thanks for answer and this is new information for me.

[BLu3HaZe]

  On 3/8/2011 at 12:26 PM, abiman said:

Should I accelerate engine while doing this with hand brake engaged?

No don't do that cuz it'd overheat and then even boil the ATF as the torque converter would be spinning, nearly happened to an aunt of mine, who forgot about the handbrake.

@jdnet - This was on a ~2001 Elantra though, the vehicle just tries to something like lift and move forward but not actually moving while rpms rise. Handbrake on and gear in D on the Yaris, it just moves as normal but there is a beeping noise. Any idea how this is possible? Thought the handbrake was cable actuated and the car couldn't just disengage it when it wants to?

[jdnet]

  On 3/8/2011 at 2:09 PM, BLu3HaZe said:

No don't do that cuz it'd overheat and then even boil the ATF as the torque converter would be spinning, nearly happened to an aunt of mine, who forgot about the handbrake.

@jdnet - This was on a ~2001 Elantra though, the vehicle just tries to something like lift and move forward but not actually moving while rpms rise. Handbrake on and gear in D on the Yaris, it just moves as normal but there is a beeping noise. Any idea how this is possible? Thought the handbrake was cable actuated and the car couldn't just disengage it when it wants to?

are you saying the car moves freely with the hand brake engaged? The hand brake cable probably needs to be adjusted. The indicators will still work as normal because the sensor doesn't pick up the movement of the cable, it picks up the movement of the lever.

As for the elantra, if I understand what you are saying, it's working as it should.

[jdnet]

  On 3/8/2011 at 12:26 PM, abiman said:

Hi

you mean move through each gear for shifting the leaver through P-R-N-D-2-L is it?

and how long should I keep leaver in each position before take it back to N?

Should I accelerate engine while doing this with hand brake engaged?

thanks for answer and this is new information for me.

Yes P-L then back to N. To play it safe make sure you have someone sitting the car with the foot on the brake.

2 seconds in each position is plenty. DO NOT rev the engine.

[BLu3HaZe]

  On 3/9/2011 at 12:31 PM, jdnet said:

are you saying the car moves freely with the hand brake engaged? The hand brake cable probably needs to be adjusted. The indicators will still work as normal because the sensor doesn't pick up the movement of the cable, it picks up the movement of the lever.

As for the elantra, if I understand what you are saying, it's working as it should.

Yes it does, but only if you press the brake pedal and take from P to D and press the accelerator, it just beeps and moves normally as if there wasn't any handbrake at all. But it works properly as a normal rear handbrake if parked on a hill even while idling in D, as far as I'm aware of. Haven't tried in R and we never use L, 2 or 3. And this is a brand new car for the permit, was the same way since we got it. Manual version is acting in the normal way though, either the engine stalls if low rpm or front wheels spin if revved high when releasing the clutch while handbrake is engaged.

[jdnet]

  On 3/9/2011 at 2:26 PM, BLu3HaZe said:

Yes it does, but only if you press the brake pedal and take from P to D and press the accelerator, it just beeps and moves normally as if there wasn't any handbrake at all. But it works properly as a normal rear handbrake if parked on a hill even while idling in D, as far as I'm aware of. Haven't tried in R and we never use L, 2 or 3. And this is a brand new car for the permit, was the same way since we got it. Manual version is acting in the normal way though, either the engine stalls if low rpm or front wheels spin if revved high when releasing the clutch while handbrake is engaged.

huh wierd. Thats the first time I've heard that. Gotta do a little research on it. You think it's a system to save your transmission from damage? In case you forget to put the hand brake lever down?

[BLu3HaZe]

  On 3/9/2011 at 3:43 PM, jdnet said:

huh wierd. Thats the first time I've heard that. Gotta do a little research on it. You think it's a system to save your transmission from damage? In case you forget to put the hand brake lever down?

Yes that's how it seems so, to stop the fluid from boiling especially as the N/SCP platform has quite a small radiator + ATF cooler, just releasing the hand brake if we forget it and beeps to warn us of it. Not sure if it's there in CVT JDM cars