kush

We get 12-13 kmpl in Morning/ Afternoon school run. Most of the time engine running while park for a/c. Pretty good considering other cars does only 8-10kmpl

Only when specified by the manufacturer JDM turbos run happily on 92. CRV/ CHR/ Corolla Sport/ Swift RS few examples from family and friends.

My cousin had a 2010 and her husband has a 2015 (new one). 2010 got quite a beating with school run, short trips but was reliable as a typical Toyota. Economy i believe was par with what Clark'sson mentioned above. 2015 is unbelievably economical returning average 30-35 kmpl on very relaxed commute of 40-50 km at average speed around 50-60 kmph (daily commute) We have one hired 2013 in office which has clocked over 250k km still original (even suspension) If you are into high mileage and want a comfortable no nonsense car one of the best options available. Word of warning most of them are uses as hired vehicles/ cabs and are hacked to death and most probably clocked after running to moon and back. Get a privately owned one with reliable history. You will not be able to find a low mileage ones as no one will buy a Prius to park and keep at home.

You will not be able to see the suspension differences in spec sheet as it will be basically the damping not the system.

If done properly with quality materials it will be difficult to spot visually. Initially there could be a small difference but will gradually decrease as the paint cures and fade. If you use inferior paint color difference could occur with age as paint oxidize. I have got my Pearl whites painted without any visible trace.

It does give some authenticity to the vehicle when all documentation is in place. Any one will prefer to buy a agent imported vehicle with full service history from the agent over a car without proper records. As iRage mentioned in the case of a gray import whether it is registered brand new/ recondition/ imported zero mileage will not matter much over the condition. But i know it pays if you keep proper records, all my previous car were sold with a mere test drive and comprehensive set of records.

I always check them with agents at the time of service on their recommended intervals. If you are going to get it done at your friendly tire shop make sure they use the correct spec. i.e. Car Manufacture, model, with year and other spec like 1.3L/1.6L etc. as there are small differences.

4th gen has the crappiest AWD with its electronic engagement to rear wheels. 3rd gen had viscous coupling as i remember. I had the 4th gen and as far as i was concern it was FWD and handled as a FWD with ample over-steer. There are plenty of videos comparing 3rd, 4th and new 5th gen.

Factory does the wheel alignment before sending it out. Generally they do one at 1000/5000/10000 km depending on the vehicle.

What are the safety features that are lacking, are they really useful. You are forgoing agent support and a 5 year warranty. Last week i reversed in to a rolled wired mesh in my Corolla which is supposed to prevent this with Intelligent clearance sonar [parking support brake(stationary object)] Fortunately no big damage just a small scrape Believe me it is quite painful to drive a car with all safety gizmos in SL traffic. Highway is a different story if you have radar control cruise, steering assist and the balls to let the car do what it does.

In real world situations specially in SL difference between AWD and FWD does not matter much. Unless you use slippery gravel roads up country estates. Most of them are used in towns to do day to day commutes of a sedan. CRV will not send power to rear wheels unless it detects traction in front wheels. I have experience this on aggressive starts, in sand, going up hill in gravel. It will not spin the wheels but you will feel this for a split second though the steering and transfer of torque to the rear wheels. I have also managed to get stuck in the CRV trying to negotiate a slippery hill so it is not bullet proof. But it gives you that extra bit of confidence when driving at the limits which most of the owners would not do. Personally i would opt for the AWD given the choice as it will give me that extra bit of traction in the corners and in wet. But will be happy with any FWD / RWD only you need to take it bit easy when the conditions are not in your favor as not one can defy laws of physics.

Well I have no experience in the RAV 4 but plenty on a CRV 4WD 2.0L it feels like a typical FWD car. I have driven the thing several times to Hatton and Nuwara Eliya in wet and dry and generally drive on the limits if there are no rear occupants (just to avoid them throwing up) I do agree at certain points you feel the rears kick in when you are about to loose grip in the front but 2013 CRV do not balance FWD and RWD as other sophisticated systems. Besides 150bhp or 185bhp or so is not enough to get you into trouble if you drive sensibly. Only time it made bit useful was when I drove from Somawathi Stupa to Seruwavila via national reserve gravel road, my mothers Corolla141 too managed without much effort. Only AWD which was significantly a different beast was my 1997 Nissan Sunny AWD. It came with Nissan Skyline system minus the electronics and was a joy to drive in the limit as it directed power to all wheels and the rear had multi link where as the stock FWD was torsion beam. If you find a good 4WD CRV by all means go for it, it is the better car but in my view even if you opt for the 2WD you will get 90-95% (in SL context). Plus 2.0L FWD came with CVT which is marginally economical if it matters.

Not in my view it is basically FWD with drive to rear wheels if you loose grip on front wheels. very rarely this will happen is SL unless you put it on to sand or mud. 2012-2017 you could feel when 4WD kicks in which i noticed only on two occasions when i had the car. (5 years/ 60K km) JDM 2.0L will have push start, but brand new will have leather electric seats only 2.4L JDM had them.

Only 2.4L JDM came with 4WD/AWD only very few came to SL If you want 4WD you need to settle for agent imported. after 2014 they were Thailand assembled and came with push start if it is a requirement.

When it is 17.5% more it matters if you do 40-50K km annually Does pump 95 on my Euro SUV. for daily Jap/ Koreans it has always been 92 with no issues.

UK people prefer Skoda which same vehicle cheaper or Audi same vehicle marginally expensive and luxurious

good luck getting one of them, unless it comes with the daughter of the owner

Corona AT150 Lancer L light/ tube light Mark I Golf was way advance compared to Jap at same vintage. Sweet memories my 1st was a mark 1 Golf diesel had it for over 10 years, had to let it go as it was taking too much time to keep it on the road and parts were difficult to find. This was pre ebay and online ordering.

Exactly same car with same engine coming from different markets for instance Suzuki K10 Turbo (Japan/UK/India) will have different state of tune due to emission requirement etc.. so can have different fuel requirements.

Just because it is Turbo it does not require 95 Swift RS 1.0T, Toyota 1.2T (CHR/ Corolla Sport) run very happily on 92. So does most of JDM Turbos Issue is with UK imports which are originally designed for 95 commonly available petrol in UK / Europe whether Turbo or Naturally Aspirated.

Rs. 250K for extended warranty, Kia Offers it fee and i believe the Stonic is made in Korea. Same dilemma i had when i opted for the Picanto over i10 Kia 1.0 L is Turbo charged and has 118 bhp which will give a good run to measly powered Japs

Old Euro should be either a second vehicle or for people who has access to a second vehicle or ok with public / cab transport. Even if you go to the agents there could be couple of weeks until parts arrive. Peugeot has a notorious reputation for issues, if the car is not imported by them forget about agent assistance. 308 newer sold in numbers here so good luck with that

Your car i believe has auto a/c (climate control) with electric buttons to operate the temperature and air direction. Most likely valve which controls the water to the heater got jammed in the open positions allowing heated water to the heater element. Air position may be stuck at the direction of foot well too. Your local a/c guy should be able to sort this out.

There are good Euros available sold by 1st owners used for 3-5 years with full service history They are generally good buys. What you should avoid cars in sales

What you get in second hand will depend on the vehicle prices new/used at the time I bought the Picanto for Rs. 3.45 and sold for Rs. 2.95 after two years and 35K km