charitha19

prads idea is cool...we just need eveyone to confirm as he said..

we really need to take a look at that car.... its quite strange... if the contacts are ok.. and the battery is ok.. the engine should at least turn over...

i seriously doubt that this car was turboed... i managed to beat this in atthidiya... maybe he went easy on me.. hmmm...

yeah true.. i guess all of that work done could do it ney... so all that money i spent on high flow exaust, intake, plugs, and bigger pistons doesnt make any sense....

belated wished, hope u had a blast...

i have an astina but its basically the same 323 setup in the engine bay... the hose u can do several things.. k&n doenst give u the hose.. just the KIT to take ur air box out and fit the cone directly to the air flow meter or air flow sensor depeding on the model..so the original hose remains... however.. i have wrapped the air hose with anti heat materails to keep it cool... but elcardo can do the stainless stell hose for you.. but the spec has to be right...

ok so that means its an electrical problem.... how are ur battrery terminal contacts... they must be tight and free of oxidation and corroson... did u check these.. i know its an obious question just wanted to clear that out..

this thread is soo cool... and this forum is the only thing going good at work now... ohhh man.. hey man please purchase a ride qucikly so i can see it... i am sure u can beat my astina..... .....................at least u can try to......

yes i have done it... but with our engine the performance feel only comes at the top end of the RPM range and not at the bottom.... and cleaning has to be done by urself and it takes a day to do it if thier is sunlight.. u can go to the k&N site.. the total conversion KIT only costs around 10,000 i think... its a DIY thing no major mechanic needed...

does the engine turn over when u turn the key.. check if the spark plug is getting current and the fuel pump is deleivering fuel to the main rail...

off cool.. i dont mind doing that then... guess i was wrong.. but i just feel that u cant take the maxium out of supercharing by doing it to a smaller engine.. because u will lose something for turning the superchager...turbocharging i do agree u can do it to even a 1.5L

supercharging a that V4 is not a good idea because supercharging car means u are adding another load to the engine... and in my opinion anything over a 2L engine qualifies to be supercharged.. i am just saying.. but i agree get a good paint job... a subtle bodykit there are loads to choose for the EG8.. and if u are putting an exhaust please for the love of god dont just stick in a barrel that makes sound.... please go for a proper perfermonce exhaust system.. it will give u a great sound with perferomnce as well.. as oppose to people looking to see if a bus is coming..... i recommend HKS as i am familer with it... the piping work can be done at EC or anyother location..

to be fair to these guys i am not a big fan of doing all that mods to ur car too without doing a proper engine upgrade... but u came here for an answer.. so happy ricing... but i do agree with the comments that my fellow members have made here.... thats why i said dont go for a thick KIT go for an aerodynamic KIT that reduces ur drag affect because with the weight of the KIT ur car will move slower MAN... if i had the money this is what i would have done to my car since i have the same thing: sturtevant.com/reed/323pics/323dwalsh.htm

ok ok.. since no one has given him a proper answer i will do it.. please dont go for a big body kit.. just go for a good aero dynamic kit.. depending on where u go, it will cost u around 100,000 to 150,000 with paint.. i can give u a place to try out but i cant advertise here.. your neons can be done though a lot of people.. but beware they break.. the cost it depedning on the feet.. 2 to 3 feet will cost u arund 5000 per piece with instlatiion.. a good 2K paint will put u back another 100,000 assuming u dont have corrosion in the car u are buying,, doubt that though.. Thick Wide body kit Celica type Front Bumper and a rear bumper Spoiler Lambo doors (optional) - i think only Dumi##a does this at the momement. and u can convert ur 4 dr to 2 dr at his place.. 2 mufflers (brumm brumm brumm) - i dont recomend doing this to a 4 cylinder normal engine.. but if u must u can do it again cant advertise if u want give me a call 0777335057 HID xenon headlamps - again 50,000 to 75,000 for a good coversion underglow neon lights - crystal break lights - no idea Nice 16" alloy wheels - depending on the tyres u want again up 75,000 A two tone paint job with larg Stickers interior a pair of racing sets - no idea on this one racing wheel - 5000 RPM gauge - 12,500 to 15,000 depedning on the brand.. Interior vinyl with some a custom paint job - this no idea. hope this helps ur dreams..

if thats the budget i say go for the autozam, u can do some wicked modifications on that.. and that engine will handle any stress that u put on to it.... RX 7 is a great buy too, but finding a decent one with less trobule is hard. the one advertised looks in original condition like pradfed said.. which means u can do a whole lot to it..

exactly ... would be more worried about the suspesnions and other knick knacks..

i might not be a honda expert but i can tell u right away that the whole cold start not responding this is bull shit... DOHC or SOHC the damn engine should start..

as for RPM they dont look at the meter.. thier equioment directly indicates the RPM.. its quite easy.. i also though they would have to look at the RPM meter.. would have been easier for them as i have two installed.. its the same way that we connetec an external RPM gauge.. so they are quite accurate..

happy birthday bro..

ok first.. go to a laughfs outlet as thats the only place i have experince with.. they check ur book.. and they do a visual inspection.. but as i saw them doing it. they do not look at the actual engine number.. they just look around for thier check list.. which is oil leaks, fan belts, and other stuff.. the details they enter to the system is the stuff on the book.. but i know for sure they dont check it with the actual thing.. so i think u are good to go bro... good luck.. as long as ur book has the same deatils as the DMV then no problem...

ok boys.. got my certificate... was a little scared as the ride is old.. no CAT.. straight through exahust.. so kinda went to testing station at kotikawatta.. WHY?? becuase my firend had his 12 SHRI one passed there.. so thought that was the best place. results as follows: HC (PPm v/v) Standard = 1200 I got at IDLE : 384 Yipee !! At 2500 RPM : 326 Yipee !!! CO (% v/v) standard = 4.5 I got at IDLE : 2.2 Yipee !! At 2500 RPM : 1.2 Yipee !!!

done.. good luck man.

no bro.. i only bought the back break lights and signals. but i have to get my smoking reduced for them to be bright enough... so i am still on my stock bulbs..

i have bought some stuff off this guy.. good qulality stuff.. i do recommend him..

sparky, if the car is turning over and there is no start its not the alternator, more like the starter motor or its something to do with power coil.. have u done the screw driver test to see if ur plugs are getting current when u crank the engine.. secondly if u kept the car for only three days and ur battery is not having enough current to start the engine, then its either they sold u a bad battery or there is something draining the current while all circuits are closed.. and to drain a battery to that extent when the car is off there should be a serious short circuit... i have a really good feeling its not the alternator..but rather the startor motor or the electrical system it self..