Mani

Sifaan, Click below for the links to the forums. They are in French. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&biw=1280&bih=585&q=citroen+c5+climatisation&aq=1p&aqi=p-p2g8&aql=&oq=ci

The normal key is to open the door only in the event that your battery dies in the key fob. The smart key fob is needed to start the car. If you loose both your key and fob you're screwed until you get a new one from Toyota and reprogrammed to your ride.

The second link is about Air bag and AC system. It talks about how and what to do if a given issue arises from the AC but not talking about the issue that you're having. Most of what is written is about the compressor and it's general function. Reading some of the forums out there on the subject, this seems to be a common problem for your car though no one really nailed down a fix. Some have had issue with micro motors [i think this is the motors that actuates the gates inside the system to distribute cold/hot air. I believe they were also talking about a duel climate control system and a temperature sensor. The temp sensor must be inside the cabin, most likely near the air passage if your car is equipped with a duel climate control set up. The two most common things that were discussed was the temp sensor and the micro motors. That being said, what I recommend for you is to try and diagnose the problem on your own. Checking the micro motors should be fairly easy [relatively speaking]. You should be able to see and make sure that the gears are not stripped and the motors are functioning properly, the gates are operational etc... If you have temp sensors, try and see if you can switch the left and right one to see if it makes a difference [if the sensors can be switched]. If it does, then you know one of the sensors is bad.

Sifaan, Got through the first file. Nothing that you can use to fix on this file. It only got general descriptions of components. http://citroen.almostunreal.org/C5_Doc_2.pdf

Have you read through some of these on the subject? http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/Topic82248-1-1.aspx http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=10733

Wow, that's a lot to read Sifaan. I'll get back to you when I have some time unless Peri can get to it before me.

Peri, je pense que Maître Don vous parle. Mon cul est de sortie seulement.

Je ne savais pas que vous parlait français. Donnez-lui un coup et si vous ne pouvez pas traduire, faites le moi savoir. J'ai peut-être vous aider

Sorry to hear that man. Hope things work out for you.

F1 and turbos... Good watch. Part 1 Part 2

I believe you're talking about this gentleman here.

Negative. They come from the factory like that.

It's your idle kick up circuit. Many issues can cause this. [bTW I have no idea what a K11 is so...] Check your IACV valve [idle Air Control Valve] and make sure it is functioning. You could have built up carbon on the throttle body that is clogging the small air bypass holes. [get a good carb or efi cleaner and clean the TB well. Especially the small holes that goes from the pre butterfly to the post butterfly. If it's an EFI engine you should not have to adjust your idle manually. If you do, then it is covering up the real issue that is casing the problem in the first place. If it's carb, then all the above is mute.

Those are the wheel covers for this car. Under the covers is the alloy wheel. Sort of backwards but the covers are there for aerodynamic reasons. Pointless IMO.

Not to mention all the secondary impacts. Most of the injuries are by your body bouncing around in the car. All these secondary impacts can have a devastating result on a human body. You will find people have been killed by air bags as well. For every death, be it with a seat belt or an air bag, you will find 1,000+ cases where these have saved lives. You are far, far likely to be saved by wearing the seat belt than the other way around. The kind of metal the body of the car is made out of has next to noting by way of protecting the occupants in a crash. It's all down to the crumpling zones of the main chassis. Every time a car is in a crush, it is absorbing all the impact energy and dissipate it through the chassis of the vehicle. Not through the body panels. The crumpling is what's keeping the occupants from having to absorb all the energy. Exhample...

Nope, it does the opposite. The job is to heat up the throttle body so it is, in fact, heating the intake charge somewhat but negligible. I don't know about gaining fuel mileage but anything is possible.

It is there for colder climate countries so the throttle butterfly do not freeze shut. For SL, bypassing it should have no issues. You won't gain nor loose performance by doing it.

Just crack open couple of raw eggs into the radiator and drive around for few minutes. Your leak will magically disappear. How much are the eggs these days?

Ahh... good point. Missed that bit of detail. To the OP Just have someone retrieve the cods for you. Paying the person few bucks will be worth it to know what's up.

Take a look at your owner's manual toward the back where they show you how to pull MIL codes. Get that code so you know exactly what is wrong with the car. Removing the battery cable will re-set the MIL light but will not address the root cause. Simple solution is to also make sure that you've tightened the fuel filler cap properly which can cause a check engine light. Short of that, you'll need the codes to do a proper diagnosis.

Hopefully you tried out some of the advice given on the last thread. Try getting a wire that is about 24" long and connect one side to the engine [pick a nut you can connect the wire to somewhere where there is metal in the engine bay]. Generally somewhere near the intake manifold. Then, take the other end of the wire and connect it to the firewall or somewhere in the body and see what happens. Let us know the results.

From what I've heard, a blue Ford pick up

Probably one of these?? Air injected cat. http://www.counterpersontraining.com/index.cfm?go=lms.module&moduleid=16&mode=train&topicid=41

Detomaso Pantera