tiv

What about tyre pressures?

Yup, the entire assembly has to be heated via hot gun or oven, then taken apart, the projector assembly has to be screwed in or fastened by some means, if the halo is built-in to the projector, otherwise the halo too should be fastened in front of the projector, then the wires guided out through a vent or something all in all lot of potential for a disaster, projectors if done well, it will turn out alright. Seen many in forums worldwide and also I recall an AL member got it done very well on his Sunny. As for halos, matter of opinion, unless oem they don't last long

Projectors last, halos fail Still better than HIDs alone

+1 Experience with NKN, using a set for >7years

Take a look at these threads, not the most suitable, but you have options http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/15984-reupholstering-interior-panels/page-4#entry281441 http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/14622-project-r/page-7#entry229723 (big thread, search)

Yes you do have alignment issues, get them sorted, or its going to be a b***h in traffic when everyone starts to show your their full beams, including 3 wheelers with their new led headlight retrofit whatever.

Yes they claim to have shorter lives, but I've used the lineage for quite a while now, and they still have not failed, Magnum can vouch for that as well.

Good to hear that, are they glass or poly-carbonate?

Wow thats fast, haha why be patient its a few min job, plus you can appreciate them better with and without fogs, never touch the glass portion of the bulb btw,

This may not apply to you, and this experience maybe a bit outdated, but however, 3-4 years ago, when I purchased a vehicle, It had an issue with the handbrake, as this was a "reconditioned/ used abroad vehicle" and under the car sales guarantee I returned the vehicle to their workshop, and well to cut a long story short given the scarcity of spares at the time, they have simply used these adhesive chucks or relining as you may call it with all the rivets and drama. Upon returning the vehicle to me, the vehicle seemed fine, that very same day I started off on a long trip to the hillside, halfway through my journey, whilst negotiating a twisty climb my brakes started clogging up,or "brake bind" as you know it. However I managed to somehow drive the vehicle for 10km or so to my destination. Upon reaching, and sourcing a local mechanic I found, the adhesives have come off, overlapped, the added friction caused a load of heat, caused a bind, warped the drums, the rear diff oil seals gone, both brake cylinders destroyed, basically every bit upto the hydraulic joint proximal to the rear diff was warped. And oh yes the rivets, they had managed to carve a jewelers grade gutter in the middle of the drum Well the jokers in the sale had a gala time getting me a brand new rear diff with all bits. So decide wisely, happy motoring

You will have to do something about those headlamps as I've seen the opacity starting the in latest prado, x-trail, and even the ever-growing wagon R population as well.

Tried the whole smoked look tint thing, its a black vehicle btw, looked really well. The headlamps still yellowed up within 6 months, maybe the grade of tint or vehicle type whatever, but didn't work well for me (what they used was no-where near 3m btw/ generic china bits) There was a 10-15% loss in output if my eyes work well, But its not much of a fall if you have HID. As for the clear coat remedy we discussed, Still in 99% clarity after 3 months,

$35-45, eBay

Depends on your design of choice and where you are located, The look varies from truck to truck, Also do look into the legal side as well You may have to upgrade your front end suspension to take up the extra weight, otherwise the front end will hang and reduce your approach angle, overall clearance and looks. There are places that do the fabrication in thin metal to cut down on weight and cost, but that ruins the purpose of the heavy duty bumper.

Nightbreaker results, Apologies as I was too keen on getting the swap done on the same day, I could not get a "before" pic. Some may say its useless, but you may get an idea of the output ateast. CONTROL Nightbreaker UL 9006 Fogs Nightbreaker UL H4 - levelling on lowest setting / Dipped Beam And yea I got electrocuted trying to turn off that bloody tubelight on the road

This is my 5th set, excluding the faux philips' set, was never held up. However I was once called for a 3M double sided tape and taxed 390/-

Took a month, and not always

Well this had come in today

Had to stay there and nag for each and every step, but they did it well, took 3 hours of my life, mind you

A good painter / paint shop combo could work out the colour

1 . Cover all areas, remove what you can 2. 2-3 coats 3 Brasso, super cut, v cut etc, Yes

Spot on, be warned, its gonna haze up once you spray it, within a few hours it will clear up, but to get the ultimate clear finish you need to sand it a tiny bit, or buff it with rubbing compound. Attempt this after about a day of drying.

Yea large scale rattle can agents, the cap would be transparent, for identification. Would be even better if you can get a 2k clear coat sprayed by a painter, and buffed out a bit for more clarity.

PMed as admins would consider it an advert otherwise edit: dude your pm aint working