AL998

cannot agree more about the extra drag with a roof scoop as you said. Well theoretically speaking ,roof scoop will not spoil the air flow as same as a spoiler , Roof scoop will be propelling air in to the cabin or to a mid/rear engine, so there will be spoiling but completely a different kind of spoiling .In a way it will work opposite as a spoiler But as I said its highly " theoretical" , this will have almost no effect on the maruti except for the drag. Since we are on the topic , I don't see any difference in a Maruti having a roof scoop over a Civic having a body kit and a loud exhaust when there is nothing done under the bonnet. Both look stupid .

I'm afraid you are completely wrong again mate , The main and the only reason to have a roof scoop is for venting, nothing else . And these are mainly intended for rally cars where they cant afford to have AC due to Power concerns. and again it has nothing to do with aerodynamics .if you know any please explain ..

Can you explain that please?

I would advice you to get your facts right before laughing at others . Roof scoop have nothing to do with aerodynamics , it is there to draw cooler air to the cabin . Also if the car is mid/rear engined then it can be used to do the same functionality done by a bonnet scoop . On the other hand spoiler has everything to do with aerodynamics.

yes common sense says it should , but unfortunately 99% of the cars does not do that

Yes it is dangerous , I was just correcting your post ,Never said it's safe to drive without wearing seat belts when car has air bags . I wear it all the time as well. Wearing it will not kill you ,but not doing it will ..

Majority of the cars does not have this feature , Seat belt and air bag system was independent until very late ,Still only few car makers have linked these systems together. all most all the old cars did not have seat belt sensors even when they had air bags , Even when cars have seat belt sensors, most of them will not take that in to consideration when deploying the air bags.

It can be one of the following reasons to oil light to come up 1.Oil pump has worn and the efficiency is low ,therefore pump is not pumping enough oil to the engine when its idling 2. Faulty oil pressure switch when engine gets warmer engine oil gets thinner , so if the pump has worn then it gets difficult to pump oil when oil gets warmer. If your engine has worn Lifters or Buckets (hydraulic tappets ) then it can cause engine to stall when its idling , Worn hydraulics will make valve opening time/length shorter .But when you press the gas paddle ,oil pump will start pumping more oil to the head and will compensate for the worn hydraulics. You can simply check your actual oil pressure by using an oil pressure measuring gauge. This will give you a clear idea of the oil pump. Also get your idle control valve checked as well ,But I think your problems are more due to above mentioned reasons Hope this helps

I wear it all the time , I have seen a child ( about 4-5 years ) getting badly injured in the head ,only because he wasn't wearing the seat belt. This car crashed in to a lorry in the kandy road just in front of me ,kid had big dent in the skull and was screaming because of the pain . BTW I took them to Warakapola hospital , That image will never leave my mind.

Hi, one of the common problems in the 18T engine (20V engine) is oil starvation to the head.This happens due to sludge in the sump and blocking the oil pick up . If you decided to go ahead with the car then I advice you to clean the oil pick up in the sump. Otherwise it can cost you a new head hope this helps

what do you mean by that? BTW as I mentioned earlier, I wasn't speaking on behalf of sylvi . I was expressing my opinion, nothing do with defending sylvi

No offence to jdnet ,may be you were pumped up because of your past affairs with Sylvi on this forum I wasn't speaking on behalf of Sylvi BTW,and I don't know about his past affairs on this forum as well . I thought I had to say something because I am sick of people who think they are better than anybody when they can speak bit of English. I hate when people try to show off by speaking ' Singlish ' , when we can clearly see they are making an effort to do that. Any 5 year old English kid can speak good English , It is not something special Even if we have to put an extra effort to understand some grammatically incorrect English so what ? we are Sri Lankans arn't we?

On a different note There is nothing wrong with using " broken English " in a forum ,After all we are all Sri Lankans , English is not our mother tongue . So don't expect everyone to speak/write properly in English in a forum like this.

If you are telling the truth then you have only yourself to blame Then again you can be another car importer just trolling here for the competition .

Theoretically speaking , removing the CAT cannot increase your economy ,Probably it will decrease it. It will reduce the back pressure and give a wrong reading to the rear lambda sensor therefore MIL light will be always on

Machan that is not right Both o2 sensors locate in the exhaust ,one before the CAT and One after CAT ,I think you are mistaken about the AIR MASS SENSOR which is in the inlet side. BTW What CAT does is, Burning any unburned/partially burned fuel and reducing harmful gasses such as nitrogen oxide and carbon monoxide .It converts carbon monoxide in to co2 and water with the help of oxygen .And a similar procedure to nitrogen oxide as well So to do all the above things CAT needs oxygen . By measuring the O2 levels before and after CAT , ECU can determine whether cat is doing a good job or not So if you get a fault code saying there is something wrong with sensor 1 then it could be the sensor itself,wiring or some other problem in the engine.If you can test the live data on o2 sensor1 ,you should get good sin wave But if the fault codes say its the 2nd sensor then you have to take CAT in to consideration as well .Because it can be a faulty sensor or sensor is measuring a wrong signal due to CAT is not doing its job . Then you have check for any blocked or broken CAT and any exhaust leaks. Some O2 sensors have a preheating circuit , If something wrong with these preheating circuits then fault codes will clearly say what is wrong in which sensor , So best thing is to get the ECU scanned and then go forward according to the fault codes given Hope this helps

What do you mean by this ,how can Cat be exposed to water and mud? Could be a bad O2 sensor or bad Cat converter Check the live data on both (if there is 2) O2 sensors using a scanner, Mechanic should be able to determine what's wrong by looking at it

As most of the replies mentioned Coolant does two major things Changes the boiling point/Freezing point and Prevent any potential rust issues . Quality (Boiling & freezing points) of the coolant is simple to determine by using a coolant tester . There are two type of testers 1. Hydrometer type (Similar to battery acid tester ) ,This is very cheep and any decent garage should have one 2. A device checks the visibility trough liquid and determine the quality of coolant (this is bit more expensive ) Still above tests will not check the anti rust qualities of the liquid . Hope this helps

Thank you for your reply That means there is no Support or updates isn't it? I haven't worked with Autoboss V30 but heard it had problems with GDI engine (Mitsubish & Volvo) Yes ,as you said CarMan VG+ is supposed to better than Autoboss , but twice as expensive .I have worked with CarMan Lite which has limited features , But still pretty good with almost all the Asian vehicles. Is launch x431 available in SL its not just for personal use mate Many thanks

The bottom line is If you are driving for pleasure then manual is the way to go , But if you have past that phase of your life and fed up with driving in SL roads with other drivers who drive like maniacs ( think they are better than F1 champion when they have a noisy exhaust and a body kit ) + all the traffic , auto is the way to go .

What exactly they do for a "EFI tune up" mate? except for cleaning and couple of adjustments there is not much to do isn't it

Dead right ,just makes the process easier with OBD1 . but with OBD2 its bit different,some newer Asian cars are notorious with scanners . I have encountered this specially with Korean vehicles and some Japanese cars as well, Plus most of the cheap scanners only covers from 2001 onwards (2004 diesel) and they don't cover ABS, Air bag etc, I haven't worked with Chinese cars so far Autel does a scanner for Japanese vehicles for a decent price but don't know much about it. So I Thought maybe some cheap Chinese/Thaiwan imports must be out there .

Thanks for the reply How much did that cost you mate? What kind of map was it? Economy based , performance based or little bit of both Pl share with me if you don't mind

None taken ,My apologies What I meant was a scanner with adapters for Asian vehicles which does not have the obd2 connector (without needing to bridge pins and counting the blinks) The best one I have worked with older Asian cars is 'CarMan scanlite ' Which will cost around 3 lahks , It does component activation ,module programming etc This covers all most every Asian cars and their control modules ABS,Air bag etc So I was wondering if there is anything cheaper out there Thank you very much for your information ,Really appreciate them

If you are not concerned about MPG and wear of break pads then Auto is the way to go . I used manuals for the first 10 years in my driving life ,Then I bought a auto Civic which has made my life lot easier . You don't need to worry about clutch plus Honda automatic box is very reliable when you compare them to some other models . Driving an auto does not make you less of a man it just makes your life easy