Davy

One thing that's good about Pala is that they actually do check for issues that may be related. I noticed this when I went with one of my friends to get his Carina AT210 checked out for an electrical issue (starter motor related) and while they serviced the starter, they also replaced the ground wire that runs directly from the starter to the battery because it was faulty. That was over 4 years ago. I see that they are continuing that good practice. Anyway, glad cefiroA33 got the car repaired.

Looks like my previous guess is not a possibility, given the fact that the car sometimes starts and even manages to stay going with a bit of stepping on the accelerator. As The Don has said, the next thing to check is the ignition system. If you're can manage to check if each cylinder gets a spark when the car wouldn't start, it will be much easier to narrow down the actual problem. Ignition systems do tend to fail when hot, but what's puzzling about the situation here is that the car is drivable even when the engine is hot.

Does the starter motor crank the engine or is it just a clicking or dead motor when hot? My guess is that it's a connection issue somewhere. Most probably with a relay that refuses to switch on when hot. When the car refuses to start, open the bonnet and open the fuse box in the engine bay. Ask someone to start the car while you gently tap on the ignition relay (identified by a "key" symbol on the fuse box).

What exactly is wrong with the rotor/armature? Does it require re-winding or are the brush contact surfaces worn out? I don't think a good mechanic would have taken the risk and re-assembled the alternator, knowing that the armature is faulty. It's funny how a part that was "unavailable" is suddenly available for replacement now. So if you don't want to experience any more breakdowns, I suggest you either tell your mechanic to cut the crap and come straight or find a guy who will fix it properly. Also, if the rotor needs to be replaced, I think you are better off with a new or recon alternator altogether.

This is actually a fair deal IMO.

As for your radiator, I always like to go for what originally came with the car instead of modifying things with copper cores and stuff. I have had my fair share of problems with full copper radiators but I don't think yours will be an issue since only the core is copper. Most copper radiators develop problems and leaks in the tanks as per my experience. Since this is a recon radiator which has not been used for quite a while, use water on it for about a week or so, then flush it out and then move to a good coolant and stick with that. Water on the carpet issue - if the car was out in the open in the car sale, water might have got into the car following the heavy rains during the past few weeks. This might be related to the corrosion around the front windscreen where water pours down and settles on the carpet. It might also be a corroded and leaking wiper motor + arm chamber just above the firewall. This is a common area to develop rust and leak water into the car during rain and even when washing the car. You can check if this is the issue easily if you remove the carpet totally on the passenger side to reveal the floor board, and run a stream of water down the windscreen while observing drainage to the floor board. Usually, the heater lines are closed when the AC heater inside the car develop leaks resulting in the loss of coolant. Instead of replacing the heater radiator inside the car, people opt for closing off the lines. The impact on engine cooling is not affected much by the presence of a heater. I'm not an expert on automatic transmission as I have not owned or maintained a car with auto transmission to date. So I'll leave this for a member who has more experience on auto transmission than I do. My 2 cents is that an ATF oil change would be sufficient. Removing the gearbox sump and cleaning it is part of the oil change I believe. If you take your car to a good paint shop, they will do the bodywork, paint AND install the windscreen for you. Then you wouldn't have to run to another place to get the windscreen mounted.

Like Rumesh88 said, a good auto electrician will be able to diagnose this type of problem in a flash. My car developed the same kind of issue (dimming dash lights and headlights, stereo going off etc.) and the issue was a faulty regulator. Instead of replacing the alternator, I got it serviced and put in a brand new genuine regulator.The car's been running about 2.5 years from that point now without any related issues at all. I got this done at Pala. Their work is good but charges tend to be a little bit on the high side. I believe this is the best option for you if they discover that it's a faulty regulator. Get the alternator checked and serviced during the repair, they'll replace the bearing (if worn out) and check the coil for damage and connectivity issues. If everything is good, you'll have an alternator as good as new after the repair.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="trinity" data-cid="268414" data-time="1414932019"><p> Euronippon and U.S. won't sell them dashboard parts separately.</p></blockquote> Yeah, unless they have the vents separately which is rare I guess. eBay might be the next best option.

From the photo, I see that both the centre AC vents are broken (how on earth did they break? The vents on the CS are pretty solid and I've never seen one broken). Anyway, if you're buying it from UniMo, you will have to buy the entire unit that includes both the vents, the mounting ducts etc. It'll cost you a lot. Try Euron!ppon, US C@r P@rts and Delkanda.

That just can't be true. If you are speaking from experience, then it maybe just the L200 that you were driving.

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your purchase! From your story, it looks like it was a "love at first sight" buy (which is not a bad thing). It's normal to have to deal with problems that you have mentioned with a car that is over 15 years of age now. With a bit of love and care, you'll be able to get her to run to any corner of the country without any issue. Here goes my 2 cents on the questions you have raised. 1. Your drive belts might be worn out or loose. As the engine heats up, the drive belts expand a little bit and slip. As a result, your power steering pump doesn't pump enough oil through the system to provide as much assistance as required. So get your belts checked and replaced for a start. 2. AC does not condensate on floor mats if the system is working normally. The first thing that comes to mind is a blockage in your AC drain pipe which fills up the tray underneath the cooler in your car. The tray gets filled up with water and the excess water overflows onto your carpet instead of going down the drain pipe. Get the drain pipe checked out first. 3. if your radiator is working as normal and if there are no leaks, then I don't see a reason for you to replace it. Since water is currently being used, drain the water out and use a good coolant. You should be settled for a good while. 4. Since the car's radiator has been replaced, there's a little chance for whoever did the job to close out the heater lines which go into the car. The heater lines carry water from the radiator into the car to radiate heat through the AC. If the heater lines are closed out (deliberately by a mechanic), then your heater would not work. Check this first. If they are, then you'll have to reconnect the pipes and it'll start working normally if everything else is not faulty. 5. To repair rust on the windscreen frame, the windscreen will have to be removed. This could be just surface rust which can be removed and painted over after treating the metal (with no metal fabrication needed). Since there seems to be a leak at the top of the windscreen, my guess is that the bonding has not been done properly by whoever fixed the replacement windscreen. A good body repair shop will be able to assist you with both the rust and windscreen re-installation. They'll remove the rust, re-paint the area and mount the windscreen so that there are no further leaks. 6. Since you do not know about the condition of the transmission oil, get an ATF oil change done. This is the starting point for most automatic gearbox issues. This applies to you mostly because it looks like an ATF oil has not been done for quite a long time. One other point I would like to add is to get your timing belt changed. Don't take any risks on this one. A good EFI tuneup (throttle body clean, injector cleanup, spark plug replacement) and you're all good to go for a long time. Good luck and hope this helps. PS: Thank you for asking all your questions in one thread instead of opening 6 different threads for each question.

haliq2009, How did you come to conclude that the ABS light is on due to a bad sensor? Did you have it checked? One or more faulty sensors is just one possible cause as Rumesh88 has correctly pointed out above. It can also be due to a faulty connection or a blown fuse in the ABS circuit.

Damn... he wasn't even driving: http://jalopnik.com/infamous-bmw-street-drifter-dies-in-crash-559957998

I'm not sure about the setup on this particular Toyota, but on Mitsubishi's the Crank Position Sensor and Cam Position sensor inputs have a direct impact on Fuel Delivery and Ignition respectively. Therefore, a failing Cam Position Sensor would cause intermittent ignition failures that will cause the vehicle to stall. On these occasions, it is most likely that the check engine light is illuminated. The car may not start again for a while until cooled down. While checking up on the points mentioned by Rumesh and The Don, I suggest you get these two sensors checked as well. Isn't this particular Carina only OBD I compliant? If so, the error "ignition system" would mean that the associated sensors (Cam/Crank) should also be checked. OBD II would give out a specific code related to the sensor whereas OBD I doesn't. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Apart from what Hoonigan is doing remotely, I think the guy giving updates to him (I rememember it being your dad?) on progress is doing an awesome job too. A good example for who think this is impossible. It's all about finding the guy with the same passion that you have. Who knows, it just might be your own dad! Great work! Both of you!

I think both Chrome and IE have their own strengths and weaknesses. While the latest versions of IE is faster than Chrome due to the multi-threaded architecture as opposed to Chrome's multi-process architecture, overall Chrome outweighs IE's strengths. I use Chrome at home most of the time, but I love the F12 tools on Internet Explorer as opposed to what Chrome has to offer. A normal user wouldn't know what F12 tools is, but I use it on a daily basis at work. Having said that, just because one browser is superior to the other, it doesn't mean that web sites should only focus on writing their software to be compatible with the so called "popular" browsers. When Chrome was just new, imagine what would have happened if everyone developing software for the web thought "oh, this is still new to the market, no one uses it, so we can just skip supporting it".

True. I got myself a Sony Ericsson P1i with my first salary in 2007 December. Believe it or not I am still using it as my secondary phone (which I use when I'm overseas on roaming) and it's still running with the original battery. I charge it once every five days or so and that's it. As for having the "latest phone", I guess it all depends on what your requirements are. The current phone I have is a LG Optimus L5 which was gifted to me back in 2012. While it has most of the bells and whistles of a modern smartphone, I find it difficult to carry out my day to day tasks due to its slow performance.

Hi MADZ, Experiencing an issue where the Quote an MultiQuote buttons are not working on Internet Explorer 11.0 (update 11.0.13). Works fine on Chrome. Been having this issue for some time now, and I remember other members saying that they were experiencing the same issue. When either button is pressed, the green progress indicator (loading) appears on the top of the page and disappears (but nothing happens as a result of the post back). Appreciate if you can look into this. Thanks and keep up the good work!

- Was the road wet/have gravel/have sand at the point when you stepped on the brakes? - Did you feel ABS kicking in? - How's the condition of your tires/brake pads? It's normal to feel like the car is not responding well when ABS kicks in. Especially on a slippery/gravel surface. But if the car's ABS is working correctly, it probably is doing its best to get the car stopped in the shortest possible distance. But I do understand your concern, especially following an accident. So to eliminate all your doubts, take your car to a good mechanic (or Agents) and ask them to test your brakes. What they will do is drive the car around and give you feedback based on their experience. My choice would be the agents here because they would give you a better assessment, and I think they will not charge you. As for your question about testing brakes, of course there's special equipment to test brakes. The most common being the roller type. The car is put on a roller (that looks similar to a dyno) and the computer measures if the braking power is within acceptable limits. I'm not aware of them being available in our country though.

First off, thank you The Don for combining all the threads into one. I hope the certain someone who had a hissy fit last week with me will understand that redundant threads need to be combined. Secondly, got to appreciate gnaveendra's effort (won't risk saying "OP" here cause of the AL acronym issue above ) and enthusiasm on his car. Some people are scared to get a little grease under their fingernails, so this deserves a little appreciation. I too rather have the indicator/light stalk on its original position though. M!ster M!nt is also okay for copying keys. Got one of mine done a few years back and it took only a couple of minutes and I was charged something like 100 bucks. The branch in MC Majestic City charges higher for some reason. Got mine done at the branch in Nugegoda.

Wish you a happy belated birthday Schiffer! Nice model BTW.

Thanks for the update kmeeg. If I'm going for this, I will most probably go for the 64 gig version (as you said, the price gap is small). The page on Google Play of which you've shared a screenshot is not yet available in Australia. I'll be keeping an eye on this. Thanks again!

Thanks Sampath! Hope you had a great tour. Damn, the front and rear are so different! That chrome grille makes it look like a Sunny N16 for sure. :S The facelift seems to be the same though.

Checked. Still unavailable. Yeah, I'm gonna wait and see what happens before I make up my mind. I'm moving more and more towards the Nexus 6 though.

Hmm, I'm pretty sure I saw 799 USD somewhere. Anyway I'm in Melbourne at the moment and not visible here yet either. Yeah. Unless they are physically designed as mono speakers.