Davy
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Everything posted by Davy
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That actually looks quite deep in one spot. You can probably still drive in the city (while regularly checking the tyre as Rumesh88 said), but I guess this damage is too severe for excess speeds (especially expressways) IMO.
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Glad you managed to sort it out. They've only charged 1000 labour which is very reasonable I guess. +1 on opting for a genuine pump as well. As for the temp gauge going up so quickly, well it gets it's reading from the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS), and when the pump is not working properly, the coolant from the radiator does not come back to the engine to bring the overall temperature down. But when you race the engine, the pump should probably be bringing back some amount of coolant to bring the temp gauge back to normal. Also, the range from the mid point to the max of the temp gauge is actually the difference between a few Celsius. So even a couple of degrees is enough to show a visible change in the gauge. Edit: Corrected typo
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If Sylvi is smart, he'll probably wait for Watchman to kill Peri first (for sharing his photo), and then he will go for Watchman.
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Car Was Wrecked Asian Alliance Is Undervaluving The Car.
Davy replied to chan5's topic in General Automotive
Thanks! Good info. -
Lancer Or Axio? Update: Bought A Lancer! (Aka The B.r.a.t.t. Thread)
Davy replied to Bracket's question in Car Buying Information
How about "bracy" for "Bracket's CY" (since the model is CY1). Pronounced like "tracy" of course. Or "Brancer". lol -
Car Was Wrecked Asian Alliance Is Undervaluving The Car.
Davy replied to chan5's topic in General Automotive
Sorry for my ignorance, but what actually happens to the car now? -
That is not actually an issue. As tiv has mentioned, the tach can be calibrated to match the vehicle's actual RPM. This is a one time job and the unit will keep showing the correct RPM from there onwards. This is the best option IMO.
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Car Was Wrecked Asian Alliance Is Undervaluving The Car.
Davy replied to chan5's topic in General Automotive
WoW, that's a terrible blow! Glad that no one was hurt (including you) and thumbs up for all the effort and getting a reasonable claim. Good example for everyone on how to deal with insurance companies. Thanks for sharing. -
Looks like a solid plan for a start. Good luck and keep the forum updated.
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This is specifically for heat reduction, so I doubt it will be good at soundproofing.
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Please search. http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/7434-undercoating/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/3805-underseal/ http://forum.autolanka.com/topic/4113-gravel-and-corrosion-protection/
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Car Was Wrecked Asian Alliance Is Undervaluving The Car.
Davy replied to chan5's topic in General Automotive
Got to admire the fact that you are doing everything within your power to get this turned around. Thanks for sharing this and as Rumesh88 said, this is very valuable info. Hope things end up in favour of you. Good luck! -
Probably one of the best ways of being complimented.
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The 1200 sedan and 1400 station wagon had 12" stock rims. I remember the SL 5 forward having 13" rims as well.
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A friend of mine reversed the ODO meter of his car before selling it (I was totally against it and I tried to stop him, but he went ahead). After selling the car, he bought a newer used car which was absolutely great. For his first service, he decided to take the car to the agents. The agents informed him that the ODO has been tampered before the car has been sold to him because they had a higher ODO in their records than the car currently has. The funny thing was, this friend reversed 40,000km before selling the car and the new one had also been reversed by exactly 40,000km. Morale of the story: What goes around, comes around
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That maybe it! The mirror they used was a square-ish one on which they could cut just one mirror.
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Have to agree with Rumesh88. I guess the best bet at this point would be to replace the brake shoes with a good set (preferably genuine or even a good Japanese set). There's a good chance that the new brake shoes will sort the issue, but if it does not, I'd say get the drums resurfaced as the next step.
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I honestly think that getting a mirror cut is the best option here as it seems that you can get it done for one tenth of the price. I've had a mirror done for my car many years back from Darley Road and it was fine for a couple of years until an oncoming truck driver took the entire mirror assembly off which compelled me to replace the entire unit. What I noticed with the Darley Road mirror is that the view is not as broad when compared with the mirror on the other side. The figures in the original mirror were a bit smaller than the cut mirror. This is after being ultra paranoid I guess, and it sure can't be noticed in day-to-day driving.
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Congratulations Watchman! Wishing you both a lifetime full of happiness!!
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This mechanic guy must have had bad experience with just one Caldina on which the fresh air vent was leaking outside air into the cabin. Drove a friend's Caldina once from Ratnapura to Colombo last year and was obviously behind smoking busses and lorries during the drive. Never did I feel the smell of smoke or if the AC was not working as it should. The car had done over 200,000km back then and it was still running pretty good. The interior, if I remember correctly, was as same as the Toyota Carina AT210 series which probably means that the AC and recirculation system behind the dash is pretty much the same. I know for a fact that the Carina doesn't have such a problem, so it should be the same with the Caldina as well. Just my 2 cents.
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There is no service interval for the brake cylinders (master/slave) as far as I know and they should be serviced or repaired only when there is an issue in the system. If your brake pedal is not spongy and if your pedal does not sink unnecessarily, then I doubt there is anything wrong with the master cylinder washers. As I mentioned before, you should consider changing your brake fluid if it's been a while. This is a much more simpler step in diagnosing the issue, over removing the master cylinder for service.
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Not confirming tha the water pump is at fault here but the heater blowing hot air is actually not an accurate way of determining if the water pump is working. When the engine is hot, the coolant in the entire system is pretty warm, and the heater core will definitely get heated up and as a result, hot air will be thrown out of the vents. If you think the gauge is showing an incorrect reading, then the coolant temperature sensor might be at fault here. A good mech can get this tested for you.
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Nice! I see that the car has landed on a pair of hands that does all the right things for it. In a country where most people buy cheap new cars as opposed to good old ones like this, thumbs up for opting for the latter. About the carb, the first thing you should try doing is overhaul it with the use of a (genuine preferably) carburetor repair kit. It should have all the bits and pieces (jets, gaskets, o-rings etc.) that are standard for the car. This should of course be followed by a good tuneup. To achieve the optimal fuel efficiency + a smoother engine, you might have to look into the ignition system as well. Spark plugs, high tension leads (plug wires), the distributor and maybe even the coil. Patience is the key. Good luck!
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Woah, the top one looks awesome! Was the other emblem a cheap replica or something? Can't really understand how one would come out good and the other wouldn't.
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There is no connection with the cold start RPM and the thermostat operation, so you cannot assume that the thermostat is working just because the car idles at 1000 RPM when cold. For more info with regard to the importance and operation of the thermostat, go through this thread. I'm sure you will find helpful info. there. Back on the topic, the coolant level going down is probably due to a leak somwhere. Do a visual inspection to see if you can spot any coolant leakage (a leak can be easily spotted if the coolant is the green stuff). If no leak can be found, then it might be leaking into the engine as others have already mentioned. The main reason as to why the heater is lines are closed off is because a tropical country like ours really does not need heater controls. (Not a good excuse to remove it IMO) One of the main reasons for sealing off the heater lines is following a leak in the heater core (inside the car) where replacing the core is expensive. Closing off the line is a cheap way to get rid of the issue.
