nano31

A maruthi for 11.5lks is not worth! You may try a used Japanese car like ae100 (13lks), nissan fb13 (10~13lks) or even b12 Trad sunny (7~9lks).

@tiv, Is this garage situated at Buthgamuwa? (Gothatuwa-Rajagiriya road)

who is the local agents for maxxis?

L/ front wheel of my CE110, YOM1998 making noise and it had front brake issue (Brake pad falling off before worn out+ low brake power). I did following, Measure brake disk with my other CE110 YOM1996 and found out that the brake disk of ce110 yom1998 is severely worn out; new genuine brake disk would cost ~13000 (26000 total) each while non genuine one would cost 6000 each. I was able to grab used two complete hubs (very good condition brake disks, brake pads, brake calipers,very good ball joints, ABS sensors with all other tiny bits)but I didnt know the condition of bearings, cost for the two unit were 6000 total. I removed the hub bearing of used units and the bearings were some what corroded and repaired with NSK bearing, total cost was 5000. I replaced the inner and outer grease seals with new one, total was 2500 Brake calipers and pistons were cleaned and polished and reconditioned with OEM repair kit (2500) Replaced the CV joints and total was 6000 I fixed the "reconditioned used hubs" with ball joints with new cv joints. I kept the ABS sensors for future use (6000+5000+2500+2500+6000+2500 of labor charges+800 for brake oil)~30000/=; I did not have to buy brake pads (save 5000) and brake disk (save 26000) All the brake and front wheel noise were solved My advise is that never use used hubs as it is, their bearing are mostly corroded due to water ,dust and few year of neglect!

Could someone explain different between the model and grades of carina? AT & CT 210, 211, 212 and Ti/Si/My road

It is the complete brake pad which falling off. This happens three times (2 for right, 1 for left). At the time of falling it is warn off but the metal plate of the pad is NOT exposed! Is it due to worn out brake disk? Or stuck brake calipers?

Is there any other cause for the brake pad to falloff other than worn out disk and/or brake pad?

Nope...This mainly audible while driving on a good condition road

My CE110 Diesel, YOM1998 is getting "rrrrr...rrrrr" noise from my L front wheel. It is NOT a continues hum. Just like one place is rubbing against each other while rotating. My front brake pads are ok and CV joint is slightly worn-out and making "kata..kata" noice when I take sharp turn with accelaration only. Is it still possible to have broken front bearing?

@jdnet, There are three types FBL,JFBK and FBK according to spare part shop sellers. Please note that the shape of letter J is different yet I havent seen any FBK.

In the market there is a product called JFBK, Is it good brand as well?

Your help on selecting good quality brake pads (Other than from Toyota lanka or high end products like Brembo) which is available in spare parts shop; would be greatly appreciated.

Dear friends this not about ABS. Brake should work no matter ABS is there or not. My question is how to check the brake power of all four wheels in a car equipped with ABS? For Ex: Say brake or L/front wheel is very less due to some issue since the car is having ABS it will not drift to a side (rite), so how do we check brake power of each wheels?

In a vehicle which is not equipped with ABS, if one wheel's brake power is less vehicle tends to go to a side (side with more brake power) but this is not happening with ABS; it just go strait (before stoping) even one or more wheel/'s brake not functioning! So how should we check if all four brake units are functioning properly in a car with ABS? I had my R/front brake pad fallen twice and each time the pad is worn out severely but the L/brake pads are all most new. I feel my car' brake power is less. (comp. to CR27 and CE 110, 1996 Manual) This low brake power issue had been there for 1 yr now. Other than the less brake power and less worn L/brake pad all other components looks quite ok My car is CE110 Diesel, Automatic 1998 model with ABS

We all know that the fog is small water droplets, when there is light coming to water it could lead to the total internal reflection. In practical when you use lamps which illuminate more or less strait beam (Head beam) in foggy condition the light will directly reflect to your eyes due to the total internal reflection and that is why you can not use the head beam in foggy condition. When the light is scattered or not in a strait beam the light will still do total internal reflection but the amount coming to your eye is less (light will turn 180 degrees in the direction in which they enter). That is why you can use your low beam effectively in foggy conditions. So due to this the fog lamps are fixed in lower position (as you see in OEM) than your head light are fixed and the internal projector are designed in a way it creates scattered beam NOT strait beam. The colour will not affect this process so you might use white/amber colour. So if you wanna fix a real fog lamp to be use in foggy/rainy conditions it should be mounted lower position not in the hood or higher up in the bumpers!

Y don't you try Toyota CR26 townace? You can buy good condition one around 1.2~1.5(max)m. Considering maintenance cost and resale value it is worth trying. I have even seen CR27 (Pre face lifted="dolphin face") in AL around 1.5m but usually they are 1.8m range.

If what you feeling is true,I feel it is something to do with your automatic gearbox modulator

Dear friend, I really appriciate your honest effort of correcting my English, Thanks. I was not born to an English Father or I am not good in English either but people can understand what I say. You might be a born English..better go and check ok.;I think you know from whom to be asked.

One should understand restoring/ proper modification is not only doing exterior ok; Capri with Mitsubishi 4DR5 engine, LED tail lights!!!! lol Starlet ep91 reflect with glanza badge in the front grill, black colored head lamps, fake bonnet grill, repainted from blue to yellow is NOT GLANZA, I just feel it is like a three wheeler with a 4WD badge!!!! If you are thinking to do proper glanza conversion I should first do engine and gearbox swap to a ordinary starlet. At best you could have kept your original starlet reflect as it is rather than messing it up. But I agree it is your car and it is your money my dear friend, better go and find some three wheeler forum (Though I have no intension to depress any three wheeler owner)!

please check the message

What the mechanic does is they remove the worn bearings by removing the locks which keep those bearing in the correct position. They fix the new bearings and weld them to keep in the position but it is very difficult to properly align them even very minor misalignment cause vibration at certain speeds/gears. I had the same issue in my CR27 (lotto), repaired twise yet the vibration remain so I replace propeller shaft with a used one.

It is a good project and I really appreciate it 100%. It would be really nice if you could keep it in original condition as much as possible. And finally please do not post your own video as someone else's video. This is your own project not anyone else's project! Please try to help the other members; but do not post your own project as someone else's project You might wanna see other members response???

The easiest thing is to change the cvt oil and run for few months and see if the problem comes back. If the problem come back you might need to repair the box.

I have experience with toyota vitz (2005+) cvt oil change. There is no gear oil for life time of a auto/cvt box! it is just marketing!! Not having a dip stick does not mean the oil is permanent. Changing intervals depends (40,000~60,000km or may be 25000km in severe driving conditions). Correct method of changing oil is removing the oil pan (oil sump) and filling correct oil via oil feed port which is in the upper side. Breather tube and side housing nuts are NOT the filler ports so should not try to open it. Oil filler port is very closer to the breather tube. Please note that just unscrewing the drain plug will not drain the oil completely; drain plug has an internal drain tube which extends about 2 inches inside the chamber. You might need to replace the oil pan gasket as well. For toyota vitz it usually take 4L (little less) of oil after full drain, for toyota vitz (and for all most all toyota cvts) the oil is TOYOTA CVT-TC When you fill the box with new oil it should only reach the tip of oil filler plug and care should be taken not to over fill.

The most probable cause is the internal oil rings get hardened due to the aging, causing pressure leakage. With heating up those parts get swollen and hens stop leaking so gears working normal in the running temperature but the gear box will probably give up working in near future! At the first place you should not have used those additives; those additives will cause all internal rubber parts to get swollen yet no control. I suggest you to go for for complete auto box repair or replacement with reliable used box asap