HaeylM

407 for 4.5 Mil is absurd. Plenty people here to support it and im pretty sure even to top end ones dont go beyond the 3Mil mark. Anyway may i suggest a few cars within your budget that may be a much better buy. Here are a few options. search each car in the forum and you can know its ups down and faults to make your mind JDM: Sedans Civic FD, Accord (2008-11), Grace (Read about the DCT and Note that its not japan manufactured) Lancer EX (2008-10) Bluebird Sylphy ( 2008-11 Check for dashboard replacements and engine mount wear) Axio ( Personally use a 2014 one, you should be able to find one for 4.5 Mil), Allion 260 (2008 ish), SUV's Honda CRV (2007-10) Nissan X Trail (2008) Toyota Hilux 2006-7 ( Not an SUV but daaamn its a hell of a buy if you can dig around u can find one for around 4.5 mil) L200 - 2008 (also a nice all rounder) Hatchbacks Toyota Passo (Personally used and can recommend, 2014 for 2.8Mil, 2018 is 3.8 Mil), Aqua (Same but maintenance is tricky, 2.9-3.5 mil), Vitz (Popular in LK market), Auris (Basically a corolla hatch, 2010ish for around 3.7 Mil) Honda Fit GP1( Check the oil burning engine issue), GP5 ( Check for DCT issue) Mazda Demio (Underdog car but a pretty decent pick) Nissan March( Used both K11 and K12, Its a good buy except for the really low height in AK12) Euros Audi A1 ( Read well about it, its not the best option but you get the Audi logo for 4.5 mil if that what you need ) BMW 320d 2004 ( check around and you might be able to find one for 4.5-4.8 mil) Mercedes E200 2004 ( Great car, high maintenance , you can find one within your budget)

Dude no one is a fortune teller but all i can say is that Toyotas have a market in sri lanka and has held up value pretty well over the past, but you do need to make up your mind on depreciation. 2008-10 vitz cars go for around 2.5-2.7 mil and the newer ones post 2012 go around 3 mil and higher. Its a gamble to comment on the market value since some models do depreciate a lot more than others. specifically newer cars as they identify faults in it. for example the dct issue on the vezel has pushed its price to low 3.8 mil. Meanwhile the premio which is pretty much no different than an allion holds its value well, some people who bought it for 4.9-5 mil in 2010 can sell it with little to no depreciation in the current market. Expect to get a lot less than what you buy, but since vitz is a popular car in Sri Lanka you can expect to find buyers for it for the right price. When buying just make sure you get a good deal!

Firstly is ur CEL on? (it would be a different diagnosis then) Put your car on neutral, accelerate gradually until you have the throttle pressed fully down, hold it for about 10 seconds and let it go instantly. Observe how your car settles back to the idle rpm or if it drops low and start vibrating around like its going to stall/stalls. If this is the case then you might need to clean your throttle body and do a tuneup. (in some cars the car will keep swinging between a really low rev, almost stall then suddenly idle on a higher rpm, this will keep happening in cycles) Also given that FB15 is almost a 20 year old car there may be considerable carbon deposits all over the engine components and some wear. ,may i suggest you to check your MAF and EGR And if you feel the car jerk before dying, it could also be a case of your fuel pump being clogged up. (specially since you have mentioned that this happens when the A/C is on)

Yes you are correct about the fact that this car does come with a ton of storage compartments and space, But the ride is not anything close to a elephant back corolla. The elephant back corolla was the middle ground for DX wagons and a family car. The seats are not the best but the ride comfort was not bad. plus the car is very responsive and the pricepoint matched the exact needs for a basic family wagon. Probox is no where near that. having gone in one a few times, the ride is more or less close to a Nissan Atlas. Toyota refined its wagons soon after the elephant back corolla generation was phased out (The G touring of corolla wagon) when it introduced the corolla fielder(2003 ish), as a comfortable middle ground for people who needed a wagon but also the ride comfort of a corolla. It served both the general commute and business needs. Probox was the alternative for mostly short hop business cargo. This is much like how the older liteace & Townace van was more passenger oriented and the newer liteace & Townace is cargo oriented by phasing out the townace comfort oriented models (Kr-42) to the more comforable Noah/Voxy models.

I had a passo for some time (KGC30 model, 2013), it shares a lot of commonalities with the vitz so imo, the ride height is good, fuel efficiency is around 10-12 in city and around 14-17 outstation( depends on the road and conditions). Maintenance ofc was cheap as it was a newer toyota model that only i used so other than a battery replacement, a tune up and tyres there was nothing to be replaced other than regular service with proper oils at agents. Car has a good turning radius and has a more simplistic dashboard. You get standard new car features like power mirrors, ABS, airbags, VSC, smart key etc (if you get the Hana grade). Engine comes mostly in 1L 1KR_FE(which does have a noticable vibration in idle but not as bad as in the vitz, could be because of less wear on engine mounts or whatnot). The car has an eco idle mode and currently you can find a second hand one of simillar grade for about 2.6 mil. (late K or early CA numbers). Full insurance costs 62,190 at C*y*inko V*P. Service at agents cost roughly 9500-12000 depending on the lubricants needed and detailing. leg space and cabin space is a lot more than vitz and its a pretty decent ride for everyday use. Yaris/Belta also uses the same 1KR-FE engine except its a compact sedan. Never used one but you do need to know that these cars are well over 10 years old so there is going to be considerable abuse, some decent mileage and wear. You cant expect it to not have some occassional repairs. Considerably a comfy car for a normal commute. Axia seems to be the newest car you can get for your budget. most of the axias on market are post 2017 so they are considerably new. Perodua is a pretty decent car manufactuter and the brand does hold its value well in the second hand market in sri lanka. Viva's that were brought back in 2010 still go for close to 1.8-2Mil so compared to the deprecitation of other non JDM cars id say its good. The aircon is pretty decent and the car does come with factory fitted alloys and a few extras. Never owned or used one so i guess a person who owned one might have a better say on this. If you are referring to the beetle swift then yes, its a good car too. 2008 model back in 2010-ish gave it up but the car was well on its track. The car comes standard with auto climate control and extras like steering wheel controls etc for the JDM version. the engine is a 1.3L tho but the pulling power is decent. U get a standard CVT gearbox and interior space, seats and luggage wise its a no brainer that its good. Did notice that it idles a little high on hot days and the car does seem to miss gears occasionally (could be just a one off case of a defective car for me). service is almost the same as any other car at A*W p*tstop. but this too is a pretty older car considering most of them within your budget would be 2008-2010 models. Fuel wise its around 9-10 in city, outstation around 13-14 Havent owned pugs or a fit so i guess other users will elaborate on them. Aqua though is a tricy car. Its low so you are going to hit potholes and bumps with a screetch a lot more often. The car is well engineered, and the interior space is decent. has a lot of features like SWC, TRC, auto headlight washer etc and even LED headlights(depends on model). Car does around 11-14 in city and outstation its mostly around 17. the engine is 1.5L so you can expect more power compared to a vitz. downsides would be the expensive maintenance and the problem of having to find mechanics with knowledge on hybrids if something goes haywire. The car is full of electronics and the regular makabaas engineering myt not cut it. Battery replacement is cheaper now at aronud 390K done at TL. back then it was around 410K on grey import batteries. But considering all this if you are not a heavy user, i guess a regular petrol car would be a better choice. the fuel efficiency wont make that much of a difference on your pocket when you add up maintenance. My final adv would be for you to search for each of the car you narrowed down on autolanka. you might find threads about the common problems in them and make up your mind for a choice.

Sad to see our country loosing such a unique ride. No idea how it happened tho

You might want to consider a different car unless you need it to carry rice from mattala. Probox comes in DX and GL but both are not comfortable rides and opt on bare minium options. The suspension is stiff, the seats are from something like a bulldozer and the ride is no fun. Furthermore there is no auto climate control, Power windows (Its an option on GL), power mirrors, Dash is just a speedometer and indicators etc.. This car is very popular in countries like pakistan and bangladesh, and is one of the cheapest toyotas there. But for the price of importing one or getting one in Sri Lanka you have a lot more better choices. But in general DX is the basic trim for most toyotas, GL stands for grande luxe so its opt to have more options and side extras. In modern toyota cars the grades mosly go as X for basic trim and G, GLX etc for the higher trim models. Owners of allions and premios will talk well about the differences between F grades and G+ or G superior trims ?

Buddy its a personal choice. Its like buying a smartphone. Your new samsung s20 doesnt need a phone cover and is just fine to use, but putting a back cover or flip case or whatever is your own choice to keep the device clean, away from scratches on the unit etc. While a lot may not adapt to using covers on cheap phones, the expensive ones tend to have covers given from factory. Same way, if you feel like you're car might have occasional muddy footed passengers it might not be the worst idea to get in some aftermarket carpets. Ofc you dont need them and the car would be just fine the way it came from the factory. Do keep in mind that the factory carpet does get stained quick and even people at A*t* M*r*j have a hard time getting them off. (maybe detailing specialists can have a better shot, but for an everyday joe its hard). (my carpet set dint have carpets in the boot and had some stains after doing groceries, some spilt milk, drinks, vase paint, pen ink and stuff) It would cost around 6500-8000 for a set of 3M coil carpets and they can go through some serious abuse before they wear out. the one in my hatch has been there for more than 6 years and still in good condition. Its just a one time investment to preserve your car's cleanliness and appeal. Doing a self carpeting job is a lot cheaper. Seat covers ofc is a sham, Most of the cheap covers either leak though and when you remove the cover after some time, the stains and liquids that sept through the cover will look rotten and nasty. IMO its ok to run on the factory seats unless you get a high end seat cover that has proper venitilation for the seats(if its leather). Seats usually start tearing off if you dont attend to small holes that appear on the seat set, and stitching up any small inconsistencies from a place like L*L uphosters or so. As for the damaged plastic components, they are going to come off some time in the cars life. Specially the covers in the seat railings and seat lock latches. Its inevitable unless you saw off the legs of every passenger in the car before they get in

Going though the local market your best bet would be to replace it with a compatible one from BOSCH. In the case that you want the exact manufacturer replacement, you might have to source it online since you've mentioned that the agents do not supply it.

Buddy there is nothing to worry. Unless you're seeing the needle hit a lot closer to the top (H) you're fine. I mean the newer models don't even come with a temperature guage and just indicator lights to show if its cool or hot. Sometimes you can see fluctuations in the needle in a cold start depending on the environment the car is parked in. A colder day will have the needle closer to cold and if you're parked next to the AC fan outlets at your office, you might see opposite. Here's a snap of my NZE161 axio DB, Notice how theres no temp guage. Just 2 bulbs on the dashboard that either light in green or red? And a cold start on my hatch parked next to hot air vent

Firstly dayum your demands! Buddy there are plenty experts here but there's no way you can meet every demand you have listed. This price category has been repeatedly discussed more than a few times so i reckon u go through the forums. As far as my recommendations go id say an entree level hybrid kei car might be your best bet. For your pricepoint you should be able to find one with a fairly low mileage and with a 2 year warranty apart from running costs and your fuel economy should not be that bad unless you abuse it. They are prone to faults under extensive engine load like if you are carrying some heavy cargo upcountry but they are pretty good for city driving. An alto would start at 2.4-2.6 and you should be able to find a decent Wagon R or equivalent for 2.7-3 Mil. As for a much more decent car you are looking at a 8+ year old car and that would be a Fit GP1( never owned one, but driven and its pretty smooth), Passo/Vitz(Owned and can recommend), or a swift (Much older 2008, used for a while back and can say its pretty worth the pricepoint). As for a sedan you are looking at a car well over 10 years and with some mileage on the clock. Honda Civic ES5, Corolla 121 (old but awesome car), Mazda 3, Nissan Sunny Fb15,N16, N17, Tida, Lancer (2008-9). All these cars have their own ups and downs, theres no perfect car but thats the whole point of owning a car. The experience you gain of taking care of it and giving the attention it needs. And the on and off mods that make you happy.

Consider its running cost and profit parameters before you make your decision. Most of the time when i end up taking an uber around colombo i end up hearing the driver mumbling about how uber is not profitable for their wagon R. couple of times I ended up having convos with them and apparently u have to look at around 80-110K on your car insurance( Basic premium+ Passenger service/Taxi car insurance or something of that sort+ Flood damage/Theft etc... ). Then consider your depreciation on mileage, and regular maintenance intervals (expect to do around 100 or more KM a day to keep it viable). According to most these drivers they have to run around 8,000 km a month on part time basis to cover just the basic costs, and they need to do close to 12-15K for some basic profit. Not an expert here but i guess you might be better off running an indian petrol alto because of the cheaper parts, cheaper insurance and the fact that it doesn't have a huge difference in the fuel efficiency within city. (Even hybrids barely do 13-14 in city). Personally having driven an alto i can say its not as bad to use as a taxi since your car is going to go through some abuse when u are running uber. From passengers spilling food to barfing on your back seat i guess it would be smarter to get yourself a car that you can sell off or scrap off later for a little difference on depreciation. BTW this might be a bad time to invest on a car for uber though. Not a lot of people running around parties and events, nor the school kids and tuition kids these days so your target crowds are mostly people who are working and are on short commutes.

Never had an allion but my axio had the same engine 1NZ-FE as in Allion/Premio 260. In an ideal situation, unless there are some serious aerodynamic changes between both cars, the fuel efficiency should be similar considering both are just petrol cars running the same engine and sharing a lot of commonalities. (Specially the fact that premio/Allion is not a luxury car but a standard compact sedan like corolla axio). The fuel efficiency depends on a lot of external factors such as the amount of acceleration, braking, road surface etc. City fuel efficiency is around 8-11 KMPL, rarely around 13-14 if its the free stretches down baseline road and no heavy acceleration. Outstation driving efficiency depends really on where you go, If you are cruising downsouth the roads are mostly flat and low so you will notice an improvement on your efficiency but the max ive got is around 16-17. When you are travelling uphill, specially to kandy its a different story, going uphill and the rapid overtakes of the slow trucks is gonna affect your fuel efficiency very badly and you can sometimes even do less than what you do in the city if you are heavy footed. Going downhill is a different story and here is where many people come up with their unbelievable efficiency, Coasting downhill from kandy or anywhere, you're obviously going to see huge improvements in the fuel efficiency and for some reason the modern toyotas reset the fuel efficiency once you fill up the tank full, so if you refuel somewhere near peradeniya and start coasting down kadugannawa at 40-60 you are going to see it go upto 23KMPL but this is just momentary and at the end of the journey it will get back to its 14KMPL, Best way to test it out is from a full tank to full tank calculation. Same scenario pans out on free roads, Once i was omw to pick up from the airport and i refueled the night before from wellawatte and did the airport run the following morning at 4AM, I was averaging around 50KMPH in city and 70 on the normal negombo road, not a lot of stop lights and there was barely any deceleration so it surprisingly indicated 18.3KMPL. Basically dont care what others say abt these fake efficiency values and stuff. Think practically and enjoy your sweet new ride ( I mean its a premio dude). 10KMPL is good enough for the car, if you want to save up more, consider doing stuff like setting up your ac on 24-25, and a high fan speed rather than setting it on lo/Auto so that the compressor isnt working hard all the time.

Sure buddy, Your Expert opinion >>>>>>> my real life experience of being stranded. Just lemme find the delete button in my brain and pretend like none of it happened. Also help me track down the mechanic near kadugannawa so that we can erase the memories of him fixing the car next day. (LOVE YOUR CONFIDENCE AND BOLD WRITING SAYING THAT YOU WILL NEVER BE STRANDED IN THE SIDE OF THE ROAD IF YOU HAVE AN AQUA). Meet me in bakery junction with a ski mask and a hoody, we'll finish up the job in a few hours ??.... People of the world! Its time to get an aqua?. It will never die off and leave you stranded in the side of the road according to @gayanath -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Btw, i have no idea how much the rpm was but yeah the car was probably in limp mode for a while. Its easier to feel the limp mode in modern petrol cars because you can hear the car rev on high throttle but the car stays sluggish, In HV it wasn't a big engine rev and more of just the car going sluggish for a while and then slowing down to a halt.

Hehe @gayanath you seem to be on top of this topic so i guess ur experiences on owning the car for a long time has given u the insights to maintain it on the dot. Eitherway, ill keep in mind the next time i plan on switching cars to keep my eye out! But i gotta disagree with some stuff u said, Unless u have faced a situation where you are on a hard day of work back home past 10 and your car suddenly start to go to limp mode and dies off under 10 KM from its warning time, you might not know what im talking about. Being stranded on the side of the road of A1 and having no way to abandon the car for the night because of the guys who keep stealing headlights or mirrors, and then again if you're unlucky to have that happen on a weekend and AA saying that they are unable to tow it back to colombo or to pay a hefty sum. Id rather have my car being reliable and trustworthy than run it the way it can with the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. Spending a few extra bucks to make sure your car is in good shape makes it better for me and anyone who buys it after me can have a peace of mind knowing that I didn't abuse it. Also about running on a dead HV battery, Not sure how your friends did it but the fact is that only certain cells die off in the battery pack so you end up having an uneven voltage across the pack. The HV system will indicate this as an error but will keep trying to run on the battery from time to time. In a friend's prius with a dead battery, where the car will start up and run for a few km then die, it will restart after a while and then run then die, Sounds fun huh! . Anyway not an expert so there might be ways to work around this. Final point of buying cheap, well for the cost of used aqua (2012-14) there are hundreds of new or recond hybrid kei cars (2018 +) that does a little under 15KMPL in the city and 24 outstation and these come with KOBE or Sterling. The hybrid battery in these are a lot cheaper and depreciation wise i guess it is not that different.

True. I guess personally for me it was more about the budget, Back when i got the k12 it was around 1.6Mil but the k13 was rare and the market price was close to the price of a passo and fit GE6 so they were more appealing and popular. Most of my friends used the swift 1.3 (Jeep model as sri lankans call it), nice car, good fuel efficiency, ample parts and apparently has a very good market value. i think @SureshA myt be able to find good one for close to 2 Mil.

Having used a K11 all i can say is that its a good car in terms of fuel efficiency and ease to park but the car is crammed up and small so u can barely fit 5 people in it and any luggage other than shopping items. Gear changes are smooth and maintenance is cheap, plus there is plenty of grey imported parts so parts are also cheap. Just make sure you arent going into a really hacked up one. Mine was 2001/2005 JZ-xxxx K12 ofc is a great choice, good comfort, great A/C, maintenance is averagely ok and fuel consumption is around 9-13KMPL Only problem is the car sits really low so you are going to hit the bottom of the car and hear it screetch very often when you are going over bumps in the road with passengers or cargo in the back. Im talking abt 2003 model btw. not sure if the newer models have the same issue.

Yo how the hell is ur car still running? surprised that your car displays the ready light everyday! Dude hybrids have a lot more sophisticated than a normal petrol car, Check the price difference at K****Park, A***Mi**j, A*W or TL. Firstly if u are indeed using the toyota recommended items, the oil itself costs around 8.5K minimum if u go for the cheapest(GTX), and if ur running the recommended 0w-20 or 5-30 Fully synthetic( Castrol edge/Magnatec etc), it costs close to 10K or more for a full oil change. Add 1250 for the fuel filter. And then for the air filer that you're supposed to change at 35-40K another 1500 approx. (cant remember) (recommended by TL) Plus u cant take it to a regular hacksmith cuz u got a huge battery pack in the back so u gotta get someone who knows to check the battery fan and plug in their scanner to make sure that ur batteries are fine and are running at proper temperatures and voltages. This costs more. BTW as your comment the battery report and car health report is not to extend its life but to know what your car needs atm, the worst thing that can happen with an unpredictable battery is to go on a long distance business trip, stop the car at a coffee shop and not being able to start it back because you dont see the ready light or dont understand jack that is shown in the display. Usual full service comes down to around 18K including parts and lubricants 2 years back. (Sidenote: Hybrids need servicing more regularly than normal petrol cars so ur going to spend roughly this every few months depending on how much you use your car) Finally uve got tyres that cost close to 12K for a decent one that usually degrades at 45-50K. so 48K for all four R15 tyres. Continental is a little expensive than dunlop, Apollo is a little cheaper. Also an added side note, you might want to do a fuel filter change at least once u reach 90K, the fuel in sri lanka is not the best and often theres a lot of gunk there that might give u that subtle vibration when it switches to engine power and sluggish feel at 40KMH. Anyway not an expert here! Im not sure how u come up with 3.87 per KM for service charge tho! IMO it was not that profitable (Initial cost + running cost) compared to a petrol hatchback, Specially considering the depreciation and the maintenance cost, plus the inevitable battery replacement that costs around 390K.

14.1 KMPL if ur stuck in wellawatte traffic peak time, sometimes less. Highway it indicates close to 26KMPL- 29 sometimes but never done a full tank to empty tank measure to properly tell. Bigger issue is all the savings go away when u go to service the damn thing. Any center takes one look and prices it differently than a petrol car, add that to the hybrid battery report, the expensive lubricants and oils and ur pockets are soon empty. Plus the car has a low ride height so u gotta be extra careful loading stuff and people in the back seat. Good car if u want to keep it forever and drive close to 100KM a day, else if u wanna switch cars every few years and barely drive around the city ur better off with a petrol car with start stop function or if u can push it, an Axio.

Just to sum up in case you guys are lazy to read thru each post For a cars/Vans and light coaches/lorries : You need to have a person with a valid DL in the front passenger seat next to you at all times of your journey, You also need to display L boards in both front and back of the car ( Red L board in a white background which will be visible for close to 7M away (not sure, a cop said it). You also have a restriction on the distance you can drive, you cant go touring around the country with your L board, if a cop notices you in Jaffna with a permit from colombo ur gonna have a hard time explaining) For Bikes: You dont need a person with a valid DL to ride with you, you are allowed to ride solo but have to maintain slow speeds. You need to display an L board same as the car with a good visual distance of the red "L". Remember to carry your permit and your identity card at all times, and ride safe. If you get into an accident or get caught violating a traffic rule without a DL you are going to have a hard time spending the day at the police station since they cant confiscate your DL like they normally do.

You might want to do a tune-up and flush your transmission system since you have done over 150K, i had a NZE161 (non hybrid X) and did over 224K but i had to do tuneups at every 60K, and a fuel filter change at 110K, also if you are very heavy footed it might also be part of the cause since the CVT on the axio has an override which automatically sends it to limp mode when the transmission faces problems trying to change gear on demand. You hear the car rev but the rpm remains under 4K and the car barely makes any effort to go over 40KMH. My advise is to start with a tuneup and clean the throttle body, injectors etc, flush your transmission system and then move on to the fuel filters. just like Irage Said. In case none of them work take it to TL, expect to spend somewhere between 7K-25K depending on how worse the situation might be. If you maintain it well u can do well over 200K without any major repairs.

Well no experience on a Gen 2 in LK but in Malaysia (Proton Persona) its a pretty popular car after the SAGA and viva. Fuel consumption is going to be a little on the upper side if you're going for 1.6L, it does around 8-9 KMPL. A/C is good imo cuz proton collaborates with Denso to work on it( Not sure for early models but 2007 model has DENSO). The car has a lowered front stance so you might wanna be a little careful when you are going over ditches. Car is pretty good for its pricepoint and no complaints. Plastic dash and car itself looks more valuable/stylish for its price point. Just make sure to check the engine mounts, steering rack noise and gearbox smoothness( the proton gearbox is not the smoothest out there but some people with a heavy foot can cause it to go nuts, try accelerating smoothly for a stretch of road and suddenly put your foot down, if it jerks too much or feels like its stuck in a gear and RPM not going up ur looking at a pretty beat up gear box) Anyway good luck with your new set of wheels!

Hello there, I have recently noticed the secondhand car market flooding with Honda Fit GP1's, mostly 2012-13 models going a lot cheaper and close to the price of 2007-8 Vitz's and cheaper brand new kei's (wagon R). Basically within the price range of 2.7 Mil to 2.9 Mil. I checked around and most of these cars had a history of engine repair with pistons being replaced and records of engine oil burning. (Mostly in the 10th Anniversary model and a few 2012-13 ones) 1) Is the reason why people are letting go of this car for a lot cheaper than other cars in the market because of this problem? ( Some cars had like 75-80 K done and the engine repair was done at 40-45K, So im guessing they think its time for the engine to go nuts again?) 2) Or is there any specific hybrid battery issues or electrical issues that not many are aware of ? ( I checked the forum and the engine issues are well reported but did not notice posts on electrical faults) 3) Is it a good idea to go ahead and own a GP1 if i'm planning to use it for 3-4 more years with an average daily run of 10-12KM with regular service?

Sorry to relighten this but thank you! its actually the smart thing to do since the car is just going to depreciate into scrap and id rather have someone else use it to commute their family and to work than let it rot to nothing. I temporarily left the car unattended with the jack on and wheels off, battery removed and the interior with an air freshner. Came back 3 months later and the car was a mess, had to detail it and get it back to working shape with an expensive service which costed me close to 25K. Later when i had to go back i left it at a local car dealer and the guy got me a deal, wasnt expecting to make any money out of the toyota since i was in a rush but gave it off for a couple of lakhs cheaper than the market.

Hey buddy, its pretty normal for the 1KR engine on the 1L vitz, which is why the 1.3L version gets a better demand on the market, As of my experience there is a few ways to improve the vibration since you've already done the plugs and tuneup. Get used to Castrol Magnatec or Edge 5W-30/20 Oil instead of letting people at the service station pour their crap. The thinner and more viscous oil helps the engine vibration marginally and you will feel a little more improvement on fuel efficiency. (do remember that it will need more frequent top ups compared to 10W-30) Also if it annoys u a lot u can take it to a reputed local mechanic and set its idling rpm a little higher so that the engine will not rattle when you're on a cold start. (this is not the best idea though if you don't wanna burn some extra fuel) Also its a good idea to swap your fuel filter if you're car is a grey import since the fuel filter is usually never replaced in cars and overtime if you've been pumping gas from hacked up ceypetco's you're going to have the car knock time to time. (this procedeure is costly, expect to spend like 8K or more) you might have to check the rubber bushes near the engine mounts and the one near the axle( not exactly sure what you call it, not an expert on cars much) As Davy said the engine mounts are a good place to start if you've tried everything else. In the case u need a recommendation on a place to get it checked up go to nishantha in attidiya, he is good on his work with hatchbacks.